NFOmation.net - Your Ultimate NFO Upload Resource! Viewing NFO file: jr-cb-3.txt jr-cb-3.txt
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#~<>->>Jolly Roger's Cookbook Version III Dated 11/09/1990!!!<<-<>~#
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Hello! Welcome to the Jolly Roger's Cookbook III! I hope that
this collection of text files has enough info to keep you hackers
busy for awhile (at least until the next update!). As I gather
information I will keep adding it and uploading it to my "home
base" bbs's in different cities with additional numbered files,
and an updated index that you can just replace the old one with.
Thanks for taking the time to read this file, by the way. There are
a few things that I want to say about the Cookbook.
1) If I ever find out that anyone has omitted my name from
anywhere in these files withoutmy expressed permission, then I
will immediately stop doing any updates and I will release your
name to as many boards that I can find, urging them to put you on
their Black List. I also, will FIND YOU! (I think you can see from
the knowledge base contained in this collection that I DO possess
the capability! You will wish it were the FEDS and not me!) In
other words, be careful who you give this collection to. Of,
course there are idiots (probably the same ones who write
viruses!) that will misuse this information and kill some people
or get themselves & you into a lot of trouble! So keep this
treasure chest buried and only dig it up for those that you can
TRUST! Also you would be screwing yourself, because I still have
all kinds of things that I can put in here for updates, and you will
NEVER see them if I quit updating because of some asshole. So
think about it. If you WANT the updates (info you would probably
have a helluva time finding elsewhere!), then STAY COOL with it.
2) I was going to encrypt these files and load/print them from
within an encrypted program. However, I have decided against that
for these reasons:
a) It would then be machine-exclusive
b) It would show that I don't trust you.
c) Only Atari ST users would ever see it.
So I decided on keeping it ASCII. ANY machine that can read ASCII
files can now read these.
3) Please do not use my handle to gain access to boards. you never
know where I might show up and I will have to find you and deal
with you if I ever see it. Don't make me do this.
4) By releasing this database I am taking a real chance on you
people. I sure as hell don't want MY house blown up with a paint or
Solidox bomb! And I am sure that you don't want yours blown up
either (or your credit cards used for tha matter). So I have to
stress again: BE FUCKING CAREFUL WHO YOU GIVE THIS TO!!
That is all for now. If I ever have to update this, it will just be
in the update archive as file 000.doc. Just replace the old one.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=Notes for Version 2.0=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Ok... here it is... long awaited v2.0.... what a bitch it was for me to
put this shit together. Hell, over 6 months to put the update shit
together. Anyway, response was cool, nobody fucked with the rulez above.
I am glad. This allows me to continue the updates. You should find it
worth the wait.
God, there is so much more to do. As you can probably see, this database
is getting quite huge. And I have not even begun to tap the resources I
have available to me. I can easily over the next year or so make this
thing grow to 1600k or more..... so as long as I DON'T find this on a
p/d bbs, and I DO see it being spread around the proper channels, as
LONG as you guys keep bugging me for an update, and finally, as long as
the rulez above are kept,I shall continue.
What you have in your disk drive right now is some of the most dangerous
knowledge ever unleashed on the computer underground. Use it wisely.
The really JUICY stuff will come in Cookbook v3.0, but let's see how
this one goes across, shall we? The Blotto box should be enough to see
how responsible you all are.....................
Have fun!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Enjoy this database! A lot more to come!!! -----------The Jolly Roger
note to all warring pirates and the so-called "groups"
(You know who you are...):
FUCK YOU! You are all assholes. Acting like fucking babies like trading
software was your fucking life or something. Like you have some big name
or something. Do you realize that nobody gives a flying fuck about you
in the real world? I have been a pirate for over 10 years, and have over
4000 ST programs, over 2000 IBM programs, over 2500 Macintosh programs,
and over 500 Amiga programs (& I do not even own an Amiga!).... and you
do not see me kissing ass on the bbs's, or making a deal out of someone
not "liking" me..... boo-fucking-hoo!! I really do not care. You see,
the difference between you and me is that I do this for fun. I see no
other reason to pursue a "hobby" but FOR fun. I hate the fucking
politics & shit. I give my stuff freely. It all comes back to me.
It just makes me sick when I am on the bbs's and I see these little baby
games about who did what, and who stole what loader, or re-crack, or
whatever. I AM AN original pirate. 1st generation. Not anything like you
baby-shit assholes. Excuse me but I had this boiling in me for a long
time. The ST world is so small that what little we do have we destroy
from within. And we blame Jack for it. Fuck, maybe that is the only
thing we agree on. Anyway, where is the hacking spirit? The giving? The
free will? Why all of the fucking ego's? It should be obvious by now
that I have no interest whatsoever in ego-tripping. You can like me or
hate me. But I will always be here. --------------Jolly Roger
*****************************************************************
******************** Notes for Version III! *********************
*****************************************************************
Ah..version III. Well, I never thought for a minute that version
II would turn out to be so popular! Well, I am proud to announce
version III, and can assure you that a version IV is in the works!
As a student, however, I cannot say when it will be ready...but
what the hell...it will be a long time, I am sure, before you run
out of "toys" to play with.
Lots of interesting new reading for you in this version! A Special
thanks to CREDITMAN, who lives in the UK and contributed an
excellent article on carding in the UK. It is great reading.
Now, I would like to say a few words to those who insist on
yanking my chain (or is it dick?) in the message bases here in the
U.S.: "Whatever, dudes!"
Now that was a few words, eh? Ok, I am debating on a new format
for Cookbook IV...something with easier access. Hell, this index
idea worked just fine when the cookbook was small, but now it is
getting quite large and the articles are getting quite
numerous...and--who knows? My laziness tells me to stick with it.
I just might do that!
Well, the files spilled over onto two disks, so I figured I would
include some ST-specific "goodies". They are in a file on disk B
called "Goodie.Bag" and contain a few rarities and a few
essentials. Some will find most interesting, most will find some
interesting, a few may find none interesting. Oh, well.
If anybody has any comments (there always is a few slags--take
your best shot!) then drop me a line in the usual places that one
can find me. If you do not know where those places are, then I am
sorry. It just wasn't meant to be. Ha Ha!
All who oppose me and my ideas and/or the group that I participate
in can bugger off. Sure, yeah, I steal a lot of things--I am a
pirate after all. but so do you, and don't forget it. It is
ridiculous to call a thief a thief when it is a thief doing the
accusing. Grow up. This Cookbook is done for no other reason but
to share with EVERYONE ELITE some of the underground and often
illegal as hell information that I have gathered, researched, and
labored to locate, type, and write/compose. At least give me
credit for that. Anyone whom I call asshole deserves it in my eyes
for only one reason: there is not ONE DAMN THING redeeming that I
can find to compliment them on!! For example, Automation slagged
me for the R.C.A Slag Show II, I turned around and told them to
piss off on that, and then said that their cd's are getting
better. What kind of "kid" (a 24 year old one) would do that
anyway? Certainly not the TOI, that's for sure! Oh, well, fuck it
anyways. We are all going to die in Iraq soon enough anyway....-
Enjoy and spread! Contribute if you can! Information should be
free (that's why I turned down an offer to publish portions of
this thing!)!!
----------------------Jolly Roger
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#~<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>~#
#~<>->>Jolly Roger's Cookbook Version III Dated 11/09/1990!!!<<-<>~#
#~<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>~#
#~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~#
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Hello! Welcome to the Jolly Roger's Cookbook III! I hope that
this collection of text files has enough info to keep you hackers
busy for awhile (at least until the next update!). As I gather
information I will keep adding it and uploading it to my "home
base" bbs's in different cities with additional numbered files,
and an updated index that you can just replace the old one with.
Thanks for taking the time to read this file, by the way. There are
a few things that I want to say about the Cookbook.
1) If I ever find out that anyone has omitted my name from
anywhere in these files withoutmy expressed permission, then I
will immediately stop doing any updates and I will release your
name to as many boards that I can find, urging them to put you on
their Black List. I also, will FIND YOU! (I think you can see from
the knowledge base contained in this collection that I DO possess
the capability! You will wish it were the FEDS and not me!) In
other words, be careful who you give this collection to. Of,
course there are idiots (probably the same ones who write
viruses!) that will misuse this information and kill some people
or get themselves & you into a lot of trouble! So keep this
treasure chest buried and only dig it up for those that you can
TRUST! Also you would be screwing yourself, because I still have
all kinds of things that I can put in here for updates, and you will
NEVER see them if I quit updating because of some asshole. So
think about it. If you WANT the updates (info you would probably
have a helluva time finding elsewhere!), then STAY COOL with it.
2) I was going to encrypt these files and load/print them from
within an encrypted program. However, I have decided against that
for these reasons:
a) It would then be machine-exclusive
b) It would show that I don't trust you.
c) Only Atari ST users would ever see it.
So I decided on keeping it ASCII. ANY machine that can read ASCII
files can now read these.
3) Please do not use my handle to gain access to boards. you never
know where I might show up and I will have to find you and deal
with you if I ever see it. Don't make me do this.
4) By releasing this database I am taking a real chance on you
people. I sure as hell don't want MY house blown up with a paint or
Solidox bomb! And I am sure that you don't want yours blown up
either (or your credit cards used for tha matter). So I have to
stress again: BE FUCKING CAREFUL WHO YOU GIVE THIS TO!!
That is all for now. If I ever have to update this, it will just be
in the update archive as file 000.doc. Just replace the old one.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=Notes for Version 2.0=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Ok... here it is... long awaited v2.0.... what a bitch it was for me to
put this shit together. Hell, over 6 months to put the update shit
together. Anyway, response was cool, nobody fucked with the rulez above.
I am glad. This allows me to continue the updates. You should find it
worth the wait.
God, there is so much more to do. As you can probably see, this database
is getting quite huge. And I have not even begun to tap the resources I
have available to me. I can easily over the next year or so make this
thing grow to 1600k or more..... so as long as I DON'T find this on a
p/d bbs, and I DO see it being spread around the proper channels, as
LONG as you guys keep bugging me for an update, and finally, as long as
the rulez above are kept,I shall continue.
What you have in your disk drive right now is some of the most dangerous
knowledge ever unleashed on the computer underground. Use it wisely.
The really JUICY stuff will come in Cookbook v3.0, but let's see how
this one goes across, shall we? The Blotto box should be enough to see
how responsible you all are.....................
Have fun!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Enjoy this database! A lot more to come!!! -----------The Jolly Roger
note to all warring pirates and the so-called "groups"
(You know who you are...):
FUCK YOU! You are all assholes. Acting like fucking babies like trading
software was your fucking life or something. Like you have some big name
or something. Do you realize that nobody gives a flying fuck about you
in the real world? I have been a pirate for over 10 years, and have over
4000 ST programs, over 2000 IBM programs, over 2500 Macintosh programs,
and over 500 Amiga programs (& I do not even own an Amiga!).... and you
do not see me kissing ass on the bbs's, or making a deal out of someone
not "liking" me..... boo-fucking-hoo!! I really do not care. You see,
the difference between you and me is that I do this for fun. I see no
other reason to pursue a "hobby" but FOR fun. I hate the fucking
politics & shit. I give my stuff freely. It all comes back to me.
It just makes me sick when I am on the bbs's and I see these little baby
games about who did what, and who stole what loader, or re-crack, or
whatever. I AM AN original pirate. 1st generation. Not anything like you
baby-shit assholes. Excuse me but I had this boiling in me for a long
time. The ST world is so small that what little we do have we destroy
from within. And we blame Jack for it. Fuck, maybe that is the only
thing we agree on. Anyway, where is the hacking spirit? The giving? The
free will? Why all of the fucking ego's? It should be obvious by now
that I have no interest whatsoever in ego-tripping. You can like me or
hate me. But I will always be here. --------------Jolly Roger
*****************************************************************
******************** Notes for Version III! *********************
*****************************************************************
Ah..version III. Well, I never thought for a minute that version
II would turn out to be so popular! Well, I am proud to announce
version III, and can assure you that a version IV is in the works!
As a student, however, I cannot say when it will be ready...but
what the hell...it will be a long time, I am sure, before you run
out of "toys" to play with.
Lots of interesting new reading for you in this version! A Special
thanks to CREDITMAN, who lives in the UK and contributed an
excellent article on carding in the UK. It is great reading.
Now, I would like to say a few words to those who insist on
yanking my chain (or is it dick?) in the message bases here in the
U.S.: "Whatever, dudes!"
Now that was a few words, eh? Ok, I am debating on a new format
for Cookbook IV...something with easier access. Hell, this index
idea worked just fine when the cookbook was small, but now it is
getting quite large and the articles are getting quite
numerous...and--who knows? My laziness tells me to stick with it.
I just might do that!
Well, the files spilled over onto two disks, so I figured I would
include some ST-specific "goodies". They are in a file on disk B
called "Goodie.Bag" and contain a few rarities and a few
essentials. Some will find most interesting, most will find some
interesting, a few may find none interesting. Oh, well.
If anybody has any comments (there always is a few slags--take
your best shot!) then drop me a line in the usual places that one
can find me. If you do not know where those places are, then I am
sorry. It just wasn't meant to be. Ha Ha!
All who oppose me and my ideas and/or the group that I participate
in can bugger off. Sure, yeah, I steal a lot of things--I am a
pirate after all. but so do you, and don't forget it. It is
ridiculous to call a thief a thief when it is a thief doing the
accusing. Grow up. This Cookbook is done for no other reason but
to share with EVERYONE ELITE some of the underground and often
illegal as hell information that I have gathered, researched, and
labored to locate, type, and write/compose. At least give me
credit for that. Anyone whom I call asshole deserves it in my eyes
for only one reason: there is not ONE DAMN THING redeeming that I
can find to compliment them on!! For example, Automation slagged
me for the R.C.A Slag Show II, I turned around and told them to
piss off on that, and then said that their cd's are getting
better. What kind of "kid" (a 24 year old one) would do that
anyway? Certainly not the TOI, that's for sure! Oh, well, fuck it
anyways. We are all going to die in Iraq soon enough anyway....-
Enjoy and spread! Contribute if you can! Information should be
free (that's why I turned down an offer to publish portions of
this thing!)!!
----------------------Jolly Roger
Credit Card Fraud brought to you by The Jolly Roger
For most of you out there, money is hard to come by. Until now:
With the recent advent of plastic money (credit cards), it is
easy to use someone else's credit card to order the items you have
always desired in life. The stakes are high, but the payoff is
worth it.
Step One: Getting the credit card information
First off, you must obtain the crucial item: someone's credit
card number. The best way to get credit card numbers is to take
the blue carbons used in a credit card transaction at your local
department store. These can usually be found in the garbage can
next to the register, or for the more daring, in the garbage
dumpster behind the store. But, due to the large amount of credit
card fraud, many stores have opted to use a carbonless transaction
sheet, making things much more difficult. This is where your
phone comes in handy.
First, look up someone in the phone book, and obtain as much
information as possible about them. Then, during business hours,
call in a very convincing voice - "Hello, this is John Doe from
the Visa Credit Card Fraud Investigations Department. We have
been informed that your credit card may have been used for
fraudulent purposes, so will you please read off the numbers
appearing on your Visa card for verification." Of course, use
your imagination! Believe it or not, many people will fall for
this ploy and give out their credit information.
Now, assuming that you have your victim's credit card number, you
should be able to decipher the information given.
Step Two: Recognizing information from carbon copies
Card examples:
XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2
JOE SHMOE
XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2
JOE SHMOE
Explanation:
MM/Y1 is the date the card was issued, and MM/Y2 is the
expiration date. The American Express Gold Card has numbers
XXXXXX XXXXXXXX XXXXXXXX, and is covered for up to $5000.00,
even if the card holder is broke.
[Mastercard]
5XXX XXXX XXXX XXXX
XXXX AAA DD-MM-YY MM/YY
JOE SHMOE
Explanation:
XXXX in the second row may be asked for during the ordering
process. The first date is when the card was new, and the
second is when the card expires. The most frequent number
combination used is 5424 1800 XXXX XXXX. There are many of
these cards in circulation, but many of these are on wanted
lists, so check these first.
[Visa]
4XXX XXX(X) XXX(X) XXX(X)
MM/YY MM/YY*VISA
JOE SHMOE
Explanation:
Visa is the most abundant card, and is accepted almost
everywhere. The "*VISA" is sometimes replaced with "BWG", or
followed with a special code. These codes are as follows:
[1] MM/YY*VISA V - Preferred Card
[2] MM/YY*VISA CV - Classic Card
[3] MM/YY*VISA PV - Premier Card
Preferred Cards are backed with money, and are much safer to
use. Classic Cards are newer, harder to reproduce cards with
decent backing. Premier Cards are Classic Cards with Preferred
coverage. Common numbers are 4448 020 XXX XXX, 4254 5123 6000
XXXX, and 4254 5123 8500 XXXX. Any 4712 1250 XXXX XXXX cards
are IBM Credit Union cards, and are risky to use, although
they are usually covered for large purchases.
Step Three: Testing credit
You should now have a Visa, Mastercard, or American Express
credit card number, with the victim's address, zip code, and phone
number. By the way, if you have problems getting the address,
most phone companies offer the Address Tracking Service, which is
a special number you call that will give you an address from a
phone number, at a nominal charge. Now you need to check the
balance of credit on the credit card (to make sure you don't run
out of money), and you must also make sure that the card isn't
stolen. To do this you must obtain a phone number that
businesses use to check out credit cards during purchases. If you
go to a department store, watch the cashier when someone makes a
credit card purchase. He/she will usually call a phone number,
give the credit information, and then give what is called a
"Merchant Number". These numbers are usually written down on or
around the register. It is easy to either find these numbers and
copy them, or to wait until they call one in. Watch what they
dial and wait for the 8 digit (usually) merchant number. Once you
call the number, in a calm voice, read off the account number,
merchant number, amount, and expiration date. The credit bureau
will tell you if it is ok, and will give you an authorization
number. Pretend you are writing this number down, and repeat it
back to them to check it. Ignore this number completely, for it
serves no real purpose. However, once you do this, the bank
removes dollars equal to what you told them, because the card was
supposedly used to make a purchase. Sometimes you can trick the
operator by telling her the customer changed his mind and decided
not to charge it. Of course, some will not allow this. Remember
at all times that you are supposed to be a store clerk calling to
check out the card for a purchase. Act like you are talking with
a customer when he/she "cancels".
Step Four: The drop
Once the cards are cleared, you must find a place to have the
package sent. NEVER use a drop more than once. The following are
typical drop sites:
[1] An empty house
An empty house makes an excellent place to send things. Send the
package UPS, and leave a note on the door saying, "UPS. I work
days, 8 to 6. Could you please leave the package on the back door
step?" You can find dozens of houses from a real estate agent by
telling them you want to look around for a house. Ask for a list
of twenty houses for sale, and tell them you will check out the
area. Do so, until you find one that suits your needs.
[2] Rent A Spot
U-Haul sometimes rents spaces where you can have packages sent and
signed for. End your space when the package arrives.
[3] People's houses
Find someone you do not know, and have the package sent there.
Call ahead saying that "I called the store and they sent the
package to the wrong address. It was already sent, but can you
keep it there for me?" This is a very reliable way if you keep
calm when talking to the people.
Do NOT try post office boxes. Most of the time, UPS will not
deliver to a post office box, and many people have been caught in
the past attempting to use a post office box. Also, when you have
determined a drop site, keep an eye on it for suspicious
characters and cars that have not been there before.
Step Five: Making the transaction
You should now have a reliable credit card number with all the
necessary billing information, and a good drop site.
The best place to order from is catalogues, and mail order houses.
It is in your best interest to place the phone call from a pay
phone, especially if it is a 1-800 number. Now, when you call,
don't try to disguise your voice, thinking you will trick the
salesperson into believing you are an adult. These folks are
trained to detect this, so your best bet is to order in your own
voice. They will ask for the following: name, name as it appears
on card, phone number, billing address, expiration date, method of
shipping, and product. Ask if they offer UPS Red shipping (next
day arrival), because it gives them less time to research an
order. If you are using American Express, you might have a bit of
m problem shipping to an address other than the billing address.
Also, if the salesperson starts to ask questions, do NOT hang up.
Simply talk your way out of the situation, so you won't encourage
investigation on the order.
If everything goes right, you should have the product, free of
charge. Insurance picks up the tab, and no one is any wiser. Be
careful, and try not to order anything over $500. In some states,
UPS requires a signature for anything over $200, not to mention
that anything over $200 is defined as grand theft, as well as
credit fraud. Get caught doing this, and you will bite it for a
couple of years. Good luck!
Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach by The Jolly Roger
Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound,
and has been used in the past as the main explosive filler in
grenades, land mines, and mortar rounds by such countries as
France and Germany. Common household bleach contains a small
amount of potassium chlorate, which can be extracted by the
procedure that follows.
First off, you must obtain:
[1] A heat source (hot plate, stove, etc.)
[2] A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer
[3] A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh
chemicals)
[4] Potassium chloride (sold as a salt substitute at health and
nutrition stores)
Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin
heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of
potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated.
Constantly check the solution being heated with the hydrometer,
and boil until you get a reading of 1.3. If using a battery
hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL charge.
Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it
is between room temperature and 0 degrees Celcius. Filter out the
crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again
and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals.
Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with
distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100
milliliters distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils
and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that
form upon cooling. This process of purification is called
"fractional crystalization". These crystals should be relatively
pure potassium chlorate.
Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently to
drive off all moisture.
Now, melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax. Dissolve this
in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on
90 parts potassium chlorate (the powdered crystals from above)
into a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium
chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all gasoline to evaporate.
Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place. Avoid
friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phosphorous compounds. This
explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3
grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water proof. These block
type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. Also, a
blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used.
The presence of the afore mentioned compounds (sulfur, sulfides,
etc.) results in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive
and will possibly decompose explosively while in storage. You
should never store homemade explosives, and you must use EXTREME
caution at all times while performing the processes in this
article.
You may obtain a catalog of other subject of this nature by
writing:
Information Publishing Co.
Box 10042
Odessa, Texas 79762
Picking Master Locks by The Jolly Roger
Have you ever tried to impress someone by picking one of those
Master combination locks and failed?
The Master lock company made their older combination locks with a
protection scheme. If you pull the handle too hard, the knob will
not turn. That was their biggest mistake.
The first number:
Get out any of the Master locks so you know what is going on.
While pulling on the clasp (part that springs open when you get
the combination right), turn the knob to the left until it will
not move any more, and add five to the number you reach. You now
have the first number of the combination.
The second number:
Spin the dial around a couple of times, then go to the first
number you got. Turn the dial to the right, bypassing the first
number once. When you have bypassed the first number, start
pulling on the clasp and turning the knob. The knob will
eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove,
pull the clasp and turn the knob. If the knob is loose, go to the
next groove, if the knob is stiff, you have the second number of
the combination.
The third number:
After getting the second number, spin the dial, then enter the two
numbers. Slowly spin the dial to the right, and at each number,
pull on the clasp. The lock will eventually open if you did the
process right.
This method of opening Master locks only works on older models.
Someone informed Master of their mistake, and they employed a new
mechanism that is foolproof (for now).
The Arts of Lockpicking I courtesy of The Jolly Roger
Lockpicking I: Cars and assorted other locks
While the basic themes of lockpicking and uninvited entry have not
changed much in the last few years, some modern devices and
techniques have appeared on the scene.
Automobiles:
Many older automobiles can still be opened with a Slim Jim type of
opener (these and other auto locksmithing techniques are covered
fully in the book "In the Still of the Night", by John Russell
III); however, many car manufacturers have built cases over the
lock mechanism, or have moved the lock mechanism so the Slim Jim
will not work. So:
American Locksmith Service
P.O. Box 26
Culver City, CA 90230
ALS offers a new and improved Slim Jim that is 30 inches long and
3/4 inches wide, so it will both reach and slip through the new
car lock covers (inside the door). Price is $5.75 plus $2.00
postage and handling.
Cars manufactured by General Motors have always been a bane to
people who needed to open them, because the sidebar locking unit
they employ is very difficult to pick. To further complicate
matters, the new GM cars employ metal shields to make the use of a
Slim Jim type instrument very difficult. So:
Lock Technology Corporation
685 Main St.
New Rochelle, NY 10801
LTC offers a cute little tool which will easily remove the lock
cylinder without harm to the vehicle, and will allow you to enter
and/or start the vehicle. The GMC-40 sells for $56.00 plus $2.00
for postage and handling.
The best general automobile opening kit is probably a set of
lockout tools offered by:
Steck MFG Corporation
1319 W. Stewart St.
Dayton, OH 45408
For $29.95 one can purchase a complete set of six carbon lockout
tools that will open more than 95% of all the cars around.
Kwickset locks have become quite popular as one step security
locks for many types of buildings. They are a bit harder to pick
and offer a higher degree of security than a normal builder
installed door lock. So:
A MFG
1151 Wallace St.
Massilon, OH 44646
Price is $11.95. Kwickset locks can handily be disassembled and
the door opened without harm to either the lock or the door by
using the above mentioned Kwick Out tool.
If you are too lazy to pick auto locks:
Veehof Supply
Box 361
Storm Lake, IO 50588
VS sells tryout keys for most cars (tryout keys are used since
there is no one master key for any one make of car, but there are
group type masters (a.k.a. tryout keys). Prices average about
$20.00 a set.
Updated Lockpicking:
For years, there have been a number of pick attack procedures for
most pin and tumbler lock systems. In reverse order of ease they
are as follows:
Normal Picking: Using a pick set to align the pins, one by one,
until the shear line is set and the lock opens.
Racking: This method uses picks that are constructed with a
series of bumps, or diamond shape notches. These picks
are "raked" (i.e. run over all the pins at one time).
With luck, the pins will raise in the open position and
stay there. Raking, if successful, can be much less of
an effort than standard picking.
Lock Aid Gun: This gun shaped device was invented a number of
years ago and has found application with many
locksmiths and security personnel. Basically, a
needle shaped pick is inserted in the snout of the
"gun", and the "trigger" is pulled. This action
snaps the pick up and down strongly. If the tip is
slipped under the pins, they will also be snapped
up and down strongly. With a bit of luck they will
strike each other and separate at the shear line
for a split second. When this happens the lock
will open. The lock aid gun is not 100%
successful, but when it does work, the results are
very dramatic. You can sometimes open the lock
with one snap of the trigger.
Vibrator: Some crafty people have mounted a needle pick into an
electric toothbrush power unit. This vibrating effect
will sometimes open pin tumbler locks -- instantly.
There is now another method to open pin and wafer locks in a very
short time. Although it resembles a toothbrush pick in
appearance, it is actually an electronic device. I am speaking of
the Cobra pick that is designed and sold by:
Fed Corporation
P.O. Box 569
Scottsdale, AR 85252
The Cobra uses two nine volt batteries, teflon bearings (for less
noise), and a cam roller. It comes with three picks (for
different types of locks) and works both in America and overseas,
on pin or wafer locks. The Cobra will open group one locks
(common door locks) in three to seven seconds with no damage, in
the hands of an experienced locksmith. It can take a few seconds
more or up to a half a minute for someone with no experience at
all. It will also open group two locks (including government,
high security, and medecos), although this can take a short time
longer. It will not open GM sidear locks, although a device is
about to be introduced to fill that gap. How much for this toy
that will open most locks in seven seconds?
$235.00 plus $4.00 shipping and handling.
For you hard core safe crackers, FC also sells the MI-6 that will
open most safes at a cost of $10,000 for the three wheel attack
model, and $10,500 for the four wheel model. It comes in a sturdy
aluminum carrying case with monitor, disk drive and software.
If none of these safe and sane ideas appeal to you, you can always
fall back on the magic thermal lance...
The thermal lance is a rather crude instrument constructed from
3/8 inch hollow magnesium rods. Each tube comes in a 10 foot
length, but can be cut down if desired. Each one is threaded on
one end. To use the lance, you screw the tube together with a
matted regulator (like a welding outfit uses) and hook up an
oxygen tank. Then oxygen is turned on and the rod is lit with a
standard welding ignitor. The device produces an incredible
amount of heat. It is used for cutting up concrete blocks or even
rocks. An active lance will go through a foot of steel in a few
seconds. The lance is also known as a burning bar, and is
available from:
C.O.L. MFG
7748 W. Addison
Chicago, IL 60634
The Arts of Lockpicking II courtesy of The Jolly Roger
So you want to be a criminal. Well, if you want to be like James
Bond and open a lock in fifteen seconds, then go to Hollywood,
because that is the only place you are ever going to do it. Even
experienced locksmiths can spend five to ten minutes on a lock if
they are unlucky. If you are wanting extremely quick access, look
elsewhere. The following instructions will pertain mostly to the
"lock in knob" type lock, since it is the easiest to pick.
First of all, you need a pick set. If you know a locksmith, get
him to make you a set. This will be the best possible set for you
to use. If you find a locksmith unwilling to supply a set, don't
give up hope. It is possible to make your own, if you have access
to a grinder (you can use a file, but it takes forever).
The thing you need is an allen wrench set (very small). These
should be small enough to fit into the keyhole slot. Now, bend
the long end of the allen wrench at a slight angle (not 90
degrees). Now, take your pick to a grinder or a file, and smooth
the end until it is rounded so it won't hang inside the lock.
Test your tool out on doorknobs at your house to see if it will
slide in and out smoothly. Now, this is where the screwdriver
comes in. It must be small enough for it and your pick to be used
in the same lock at the same time, one above the other. In the
coming instructions, please refer to this chart of the interior of
a lock:
______________________________
\ K
| | | | | | / E
| | | | \ Y [|] Upper tumbler pin
^ ^ / H [^] Lower tumbler pin
^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ \ O [-] Cylinder wall
/ L (This is a greatly simplified
\ E drawing)
______________________________/
The object is to press the pin up so that the space between the
upper pin and the lower pin is level with the cylinder wall. Now,
if you push a pin up, it's tendency is to fall back down, right?
That is where the screwdriver comes in. Insert the screwdriver
into the slot and turn. This tension will keep the "solved" pins
from falling back down. Now, work from the back of the lock to
the front, and when you are through, there will be a click, the
screwdriver will turn freely, and the door will open.
Do not get discouraged on your first try! It will probably take
you about twenty to thirty minutes your first time. After that,
you will quickly improve with practice.
Solidox Bombs by The Jolly Roger
Most people are not aware that a volatile, extremely explosive
chemical can be bought over the counter: Solidox.
Solidox comes in an aluminum can containing 6 grey sticks, and can
be bought at Kmart, and various hardware supply shops for around
$7.00. Solidox is used in welding applications as an oxidizing
agent for the hot flame needed to melt metal. The most active
ingredient in Solidox is potassium chlorate, a filler used in many
military applications in the WWII era.
Since Solidox is literally what the name says: SOLID OXygen, you
must have an energy source for an explosion. The most common and
readily available energy source is common household sugar, or
sucrose. In theory, glucose would be the purest energy source,
but it is hard to find a solid supply of glucose.
Making the mixture:
[1] Open the can of Solidox, and remove all 6 sticks. One by
one, grind up each of the sticks (preferably with a mortar
and pestle) into the finest powder possible.
[2] The ratio for mixing the sugar with the Solidox is 1:1, so
weigh the Solidox powder, and grind up the equivalent amount
of sugar.
[3] Mix equivalent amounts of Solidox powder, and sugar in a 1:1
ratio.
It is just that simple! You now have an extremely powerful
substance that can be used in a variety of applications. A word
of caution: be EXTREMELY careful in the entire process. Avoid
friction, heat, and flame. A few years back, a teenager I knew
blew 4 fingers off while trying to make a pipe bomb with Solidox.
You have been warned!
High Tech Revenge: The Beigebox rev.2 by The Jolly Roger
-------------Introduction-------------
Have you ever wanted a lineman's handset? Surely every phreak has at
least once considered the phun that he could have with one. After searching
unlocked phone company trucks for months, we had an idea. We could build
one. We did, and named it the "Beige Box" simply because that is the color
of ours.
The beigebox is simply a consumer lineman's handset, which is a
phone that can be attached to the outside of a person's house. To
fabricate a beigebox, follow along.
---------Construction and Use---------
The construction is very simple. First you must understand the concept of
the device. In a modular jack, there are four wires. These are red, green,
yellow, and black. For a single line telephone, however, only two matter:
the red (ring) and green (tip). The yellow and the black are not neccessary
for this project. A lineman's handset has two clips on it: the ring and
the tip. Take a modular jack and look at the bottom of it's casing. There
should be a grey jack with four wires (red, green, yellow & black)
leading out of it. To the end of the red wire attach a red aligator clip.
To the end of the green wire attatch a green aligator clip. The yellow
and black wires can be removed, although I would only set them aside so
that you can use the modular jack in future projects. Now insert your
telephone's modular plug into the modular jack. That's it. This particular
model is nice because it is can be easily made, is inexpensive, uses
common parts that are readily available, is small, is lightweight,
and does not require the destruction of a phone.
------------Beige Box Uses------------
There are many uses for a Beige Box. However, before you can use it,
you must know how to attach it to the output device. This device can be
of any of Bell switching apparatus that include germinal sets (i.e.
remote switching centers, bridgin heads, cans, etc.). To open most Bell
Telephone switching apparatus, you must have a 7/16 inch hex driver
(or a good pair of needle nose pliers work also).
This piece of equipment can be picked up at your local hardware store.
With your hex driver (or pliers), turn the security bolt(s) approximately
1/8 of an inch counter-clockwise and open. If your output device is locked,
then you must have some knowledge of destroying and/or picking locks.
However, we have never encountered a locked output device. Once you have
opened your output device, you should see a mass of wires connected to
terminals. On most output devices, the terminals should be labeled "T"
(Tip -- if not labeled, it is usually on the left) and "R" (Ring -- if
not labeled, usually on the right).
Remember: Ring - red - right. The "Three R's" -- a simple way to
remember which is which. Now you must attach all the red alligator clip
(Ring) to the "R" (Ring) terminal.
Attach the green alligator clip (Tip) to the "T" (Tip) terminal.
Note: If instead of a dial tone you hear nothing, adjust the alligator
clips so that they are not touching each other terminals. Also make sure
they are firmly attached. By this time you should hear a dial tone.
Dial ANI to find out the number you are using (you wouldn't want to use
your own). Here are some practicle aplications:
> Eavesdropping
> Long distance, static free free fone calls to phriends
> Dialing direct to Alliance Teleconferencing (also no static)
> Phucking people over
> Bothering the operator at little risk to yourself
> Blue Boxing with greatly reduced chance of getting caught
> Anything at all you want, since you are on an extension of that line.
Eavesdropping
-------------
To be most effective, first attach the Beige Box then your phone. This
eliminates the static caused by connecting the box, therefore
reducing the potential suspicion of your victim. When eavesdropping,
it is allways best to be neither seen nor heard. If you hear someone
dialing out, do not panic; but rather hang up, wait, and pick up the
receiver again. The person will either have hung up or tried to complete
their call again. If the latter is true, then listen in, and perhaps you
will find information worthy of blackmail! If you would like to know who
you are listening to, after dialing ANI, pull a CN/A on the number.
Dialing Long Distance
---------------------
This section is self explanitory, but don't forget to dial a "1" before
the NPA.
Dialing Direct to Aliance Teleconferencing
------------------------------------------
Simply dial 0-700-456-1000 and you will get instructions from there.
I prefer this method over PBX's, since PBX's often have poor reception
and are more dificult to come by.
Phucking People Over
--------------------
This is a very large topic of discussion. Just by using the other topics
described, you can create a large phone bill for the person (they will
not have to pay for it, but it will be a big hassle for them). In addition,
since you are an extension of the person's line, you can leave your
phone off the hook, and they will not be able to make or receive calls.
This can be extremely nasty because no one would expect the cause
of the problem.
Bothering the Operator
----------------------
This is also self explanitary and can provide hours of entertainment.
Simply ask her things that are offensive or you would not like traced
to your line. This also corresponds to the previously described section,
Phucking People Over. After all, guess who's line it gets traced to?
He he he...
Blue Boxing
-----------
See a file on Blue Boxing for more details. This is an especially nice
feature if you live in an ESS-equiped prefix, since the calls are, once
again, not traced to your line...
---POTENTIAL RISKS OF BEIGE BOXING----
Overuse of the Beige Box may cause suspicians within the Gestapo,
and result in legal problems. Therefor, I would recomend you:
> Choose a secluded spot to do your Beige Boxing,
> Use more than one output device
> Keep a low profile (i.e., do not post under your real
name on a public BBS concering your occomplishments)
> In order to make sure the enemy has not been inside your output
device, I recomend you place a piece of transparent tape over
the opening of your output device. Therefor, if it is
opened in your abscence, the tapqe will be displaced and
you will be aware of the fact that someone has intruded
on your teritory.
Now, imagine the possibilities: a $2000 dollar phone bill for
that special person, 976 numbers galore, even harassing the
operator at no risk to you! Think of it as walking into an
enemies house, and using their phone to your heart's content.
---------Jolly Roger
How to make a CO2 bomb by the Jolly Roger
You will have to use up the cartridge first by either shooting it
or whatever. With a nail, force a hole bigger so as to allow the
powder and wick to fit in easily. Fill the cartridge with black
powder and pack it in there real good by tapping the bottom of the
cartridge on a hard surface (I said TAP not SLAM!). Insert a fuse.
I recommend a good water-proof cannon fuse, or an m-80 type fuse,
but firecracker fuses work, if you can run like a black man runs
from the cops after raping a white girl.) Now, light it and run
like hell! It does wonders for a row of mailboxes (like the ones
in apartment complexes), a car (place under the gas tank), a
picture window (place on window sill), a phone booth (place right
under the phone), or any other devious place. This thing throws
shrapnel, and can make quit a mess!! -Jolly Roger-
Thermite II... or A better way to make Thermite by Jolly Roger
Thermite is nasty shit. Here is a good and easy way to make it.
The first step is to get some iron-oxide (which is RUST!). Here is
a good way to make large quantities in a short time:
- Get a DC convertor like the one used on a train set. Cut the
connector off, seperate the wires, and strip them both.
- Now you need a jar of water with a tablespoon or so of sodium
chloride (which is SALT!) added to it. This makes the water
conductive.
- Now insert both wires into the mixture (I am assuming you
plugged the convertor in...) and let them sit for five minutes.
One of them will start bubbling more than the other. This is the
POSITIVE(+) wire. If you do not do this test right, the final
product will be the opposite (chemically) of rust, which is RUST
ACID. You have no use for this here (although it IS useful!).
- Anyway, put the nail tied to the positive wire into the jar. Now
put the negative wire in the other end. Now let it sit overnight
and in the morning scrape the rust off of the nail & repeat until
you got a bunch of rust on the bottom of the glass. Be generous
with your rust collection. If you are going through the trouble of
making thermite, you might as well make a lot, right?
- Now remove the excess water and pour the crusty solution onto a
cookie sheet. Dry it in the sun for a few hours, or inside
overnight. It should be an orange-brown color (although I have
seen it in many different colors! Sometimes the color gets fucked
up, what can I say... but it is still iron oxide!)
- Crush the rust into a fine powder and heat it in a cast-iron pot
until it is red. Now mix the pure iron oxide with pure alluminum
filinos which can be bought or filed down by hand from an aluminum
tube or bar. The ratio or iron oxide to aluminum is 8 grams to 3
grams.
- Congrats! You have just made THERMITE! Now, to light it...
- Thermite requires a LOT of heat (more than a blow torch!) to
ignite. However, a magnesium ribbon (which is sorta hard to find..
call around) will do the trick. It takes the heat from the
burning magnesium to light the thermite.
- Now when you see your victim's car, pour a fifty-cent sized pile
onto his hood, stick the ribbon in it, and light the ribbon with
the blow torch. Now chuckle as you watch it burn through the hood,
the block, the axle, and the pavement. BE CAREFUL! The ideal
mixtures can vaporize CARBON STEEL! Another idea is to use
thermite to get into pay phone cash boxes. HAVE FUN!! -Jolly Roger-
Touch Explosives by the Jolly Roger
This is sort of a mild explosive, but it can be quite dangerous in
large quantities. To make touch explosive (such as that found in a
snap-n-pop, but more powerful), use this recipe:
- Mix iodine crystals into ammonia until the iodine crystals will
not dissolve into the ammonia anymore. Pour off the excess ammonia
and dry out the crystals on a baking sheet the same way as you
dried the thermite (in other words, just let it sit overnight!).
- Be careful now because these crystals are now your touch
explosive. Carefully wrap a bunch in paper (I mean carefully!
Friction sets 'em off!) and throw them around.. pretty loud, huh?
They are fun to put on someone's chair. Add a small fish sinker to
them and they can be thrown a long distance (good for crowds,
football games, concerts, etc.) Have fun! -Jolly Roger-
Letter Bombs by The Jolly Roger
- You will first have to make a mild version of thermite. Use my
recipe, but substitute iron fillings for rust.
- Mix the iron with aluminum fillings in a ratio of 75% aluminum
to 25% iron. This mixture will burn violently in a closed space
(such as an envelope). This bring us to our next ingredient...
- Go to the post office and buy an insulated (padded) envelope.
You know, the type that is double layered... Seperate the layers
and place the mild thermite in the main section, where the letter
would go. Then place magnesium powder in the outer layer. There is
your bomb!!
- Now to light it... this is the tricky part and hard to explain.
Just keep experimenting until you get something that works. The
fuse is just that touch explosive I have told you about in another
one of my anarchy files. You might want to wrap it like a long
cigarette and then place it at the top of the envelope in the
outer layer (on top of the powdered magnesium). When the touch
explosive is torn or even squeezed hard it will ignite the
powdered magnesium (sort of a flash light) and then it will burn
the mild thermite. If the thermite didn't blow up, it would at
least burn the fuck out of your enemy (it does wonders on human
flesh!).
NOW that is REVENGE! -Jolly Roger-
Paint Bombs by The Jolly Roger
To make a pain bomb you simply need a metal pain can with a
refastenable lid, a nice bright color paint (green, pink, purple,
or some gross color is perfect!), and a quantity of dry ice. Place
the paint in the can and then drop the dry ice in. Quicky place
the top on and then run like hell! With some testing you can time
this to a science. It depends on the ratio of dry ice to paint to
the size of the can to how full it is. If you are really pissed
off at someone, you could place it on their doorstep, knock on the
door, and then run!! Paint will fly all over the place HAHAHA!!
-Jolly Roger-
Ways to send a car to Hell by The Jolly Roger
There are 1001 ways to destroy a car but I am going to cover only
the ones that are the most fun (for you), the most destructive
(for them), and the hardest to trace (for the cops).
- Place thermite on the hood, light it, and watch it burn all the
way through the pavement!
- Tape a CO2 bomb to the hood, axel, gas tank, wheel, muffler,
etc.)
- Put a tampon, dirt, sugar (this on is good!), a ping pong ball,
or just about anything that will dissolve in the gas tank.
- Put potatoes, rocks, banannas, or anything that will fit, into
the tailpipe. Use a broom handle to stuff 'em up into the
tailpipe.
- Put a long rag into the gas tank and light it...
- Steal a key, copy it, replace it, and then steal the stereo.
- Break into the car. Cut a thin metal ruler into a shape like
this:
----
| |
| |
| |
| <
----
Slide it into the outside window and keep pulling it back up until
you catch the lock cable which should unlock the door. This device
is also called a SLIM JIM. Now get the stereo, equalizer, radar
detector, etc. Now destroy the inside. (A sharp knife does wonders
on the seats!)
Have Fun! -Jolly Roger-
Do ya hate school? by The Jolly Roger
- One of my favorites for getting out of a class or two is to call
in a bomb threat. Tell 'em that it is in a locker. Then they have
to check them all, whilst you can slip away for an hour or two.
You can even place a fake bomb (in any locker but YOURS!). They
might cancel school for a week while they investigate (of course,
you will probably have to make it up in the summer...).
- Get some pure potassium or pure sodium, put it in a capsule, and
flush it down the toilet (smells awful! Stinks up the whole school!).
- Use a smoke grenade in the hallway.
- Steal the computer passwords & keys. Or steal the 80 column cards
inside if they are (gag) IBM.
- Make friends with student assistants and have them change your
grades when the teachers hand in their bubble sheets for the report
cards.
- Spit your gum out on the carpet in the library or whatever and
grind it into the carpet. Watch the janitors cry!
- Draw on lockers or spraypaint on the building that the principal
is a fascist.
- Stick a potato in the tailpipe of the principal's car.
- USE YOUR IMAGINATION! -Jolly Roger-
Phone related vandalism by the Jolly Roger
If you live where there are underground lines then you will be
able to ruin someone's phone life very easily. All you must do is
go to their house and find the green junction box that interfaces
their line (and possibly some others in the neighborhood) with the
major lines. These can be found just about anywhere but they are
usually underneath the nearest phone pole. Take a socket wrench
and loosen the nut on the right. Then just take clippers or a
sledge hammer or a bomb and destroy the insides and pull up their
phone cable. Now cut it into segments so it can't be fixed but
must be replaced (There is a week's worth of work for 'em!!)
-Jolly Roger-
Highway radar jamming by The Jolly Roger
Most drivers wanting to make better time on the open road will
invest in one of those expensive radar detectors. However, this
device will not work against a gun type radar unit in which the
radar signal is not present until the cop has your car in his
sights and pulls the trigger. Then it is TOO LATE for you to slow
down. A better method is to continuously jam any signal with a
radar signal of your own. I have tested this idea with the
cooperation of a local cop and found that his unit reads random
numbers when my car approached him. It is suprisingly easy to make
a low power radar transmitter. A nifty little semiconductor called
a Gunn Diode will generate microwaves when supplied with the 5 to
10 volt DC and enclosed in the correct size cavity (resonater). An
8 to 3 terminal regulator can be used to get this voltage from a
car's 12v system. However, the correct construction and tuning of
the cavity is difficult without good microwave measurement
equipment. Police radars commonly operate on the K band at 22 ghz.
Or more often on the X band at 10.525 ghz. most microwave intruder
alarms and motion detectors (mounted over automatic doors in
supermarkets & banks, etc.) contain a Gunn type
transmitter/receiver combination that transmits about 10 kilowatts
at 10.525 ghz. These units work perfectly as jammers. If you
cannot get one locally, write to Microwave Associates in
Burlington, Massachusettes and ask them for info on 'Gunnplexers'
for ham radio use. When you get the unit it may be mounted in a
plastic box on the dash or in a weather-proff enclosure behind the
PLASTIC grille. Switch on the power when on an open highway. The
unit will not jam radar to the side or behind the car so don't go
speeding past the radar trap. An interesting phenomena you will
notice is that the drivers who are in front of you who are using
detectors will hit their brakes as you approach large metal signs
and bridges. Your signal is bouncing off of these objects and
triggering their radar detectors! HAVE FUN!
-Jolly Roger-
P.S. If you are interested in this sort of thing, get a copy of
POPULAR COMMUNICATIONS. The ads in there tell you where you can
get all kinds of info on all kinds of neat equipment for all kinds
of neat things!
Smoke Bombs by the Jolly Roger
Here is the recipe for one helluva smoke bomb!
4 parts sugar
6 parts potassium nitrate (Salt Peter)
Heat this mixture over a LOW flame until it melts, stirring well.
Pour it into a future container and, before it solidifies, imbed a
few matches into the mixture to use as fuses. One pound of this
stuff will fill up a whole block with thick, white smoke!
Mail Box Bombs by the Jolly Roger
(1) Two litre bottle of chlorine (must contain sodium hypochlorate)
Small amount of sugar
Small amount of water
Mix all three of these in equal amounts to fill about 1/10 of the
bottle. Screw on the lid and place in a mailbox. It's hard to
believe that such a small explosion will literally rip the mailbox
in half and send it 20 feet into the air! Be careful doing this,
though, because if you are caught, it is not up to the person
whose mailbox you blew up to press charges. It is up to the city.
-Jolly Roger-
Mail Box Bombs by the Jolly Roger
(1) Two litre bottle of chlorine (must contain sodium hypochlorate)
Small amount of sugar
Small amount of water
Mix all three of these in equal amounts to fill about 1/10 of the
bottle. Screw on the lid and place in a mailbox. It's hard to
believe that such a small explosion will literally rip the mailbox
in half and send it 20 feet into the air! Be careful doing this,
though, because if you are caught, it is not up to the person
whose mailbox you blew up to press charges. It is up to the city.
-Jolly Roger-
The easiest way to hotwire cars by the Jolly Roger
Get in the car. Look under the dash. If it enclosed, forget it
unless you want to cut through it. If you do, do it near the
ignition. Once you get behind or near the ignition look for two
red wires. In older cars red was the standard color, if not, look
for two matched pairs. When you find them, cross them and take
off! -Jolly Roger-
How to make Napalm by the Jolly Roger
- Pour some gas into an old bowl, or some kind of container.
- Get some styrofoam and put it in the gas, until the gas won't
eat anymore. You should have a sticky syrup.
- Put it on the end of something (don't touch it!!). The unused
stuff lasts a long time!
-Jolly Roger-
How to make a fertilizer bomb by Jolly Roger
Ingredients:
- Newspaper
- Fertilizer (the chemical kind, GREEN THUMB or ORCHO)
- Cotton
- Diesel fuel
Make a pouch out of the newspaper and put some fertilizer in it.
Then put cotton on top. Soak the cotton with fuel. Then light and
run like you have never ran before! This blows up 500 square feet
so don't do it in an alley!! -Jolly Roger-
How to make a fertilizer bomb by Jolly Roger
Ingredients:
- Newspaper
- Fertilizer (the chemical kind, GREEN THUMB or ORCHO)
- Cotton
- Diesel fuel
Make a pouch out of the newspaper and put some fertilizer in it.
Then put cotton on top. Soak the cotton with fuel. Then light and
run like you have never ran before! This blows up 500 square feet
so don't do it in an alley!! -Jolly Roger-
Tennis Ball Bombs by The Jolly Roger
Ingredients:
- Strike anywhere matches
- A tennis ball
- A nice sharp knife
- Duct tape
Break a ton of matchheads off. Then cut a SMALL hole in the tennis
ball. Stuff all of the matchheads into the ball, until you can't
fit any more in. Then tape over it with duct tape. Make sure it is
real nice and tight! Then, when you see a geek walking down the
street, give it a good throw. He will have a blast!!
-Jolly Roger-
Diskette Bombs by the Jolly Roger
You need:
- A disk
- Scissors
- White or blue kitchen matches (they MUST be these colors!)
- Clear nail polish
- Carefully open up the diskette (3.5" disks are best for this!)
- Remove the cotton covering from the inside.
- Scrape a lot of match powder into a bowl (use a wooden scraper,
metal might spark the matchpowder!)
- After you have a lot, spread it evenly on the disk.
- Using the nail polish, spread it over the match mixture
- Let it dry
- Carefully put the diskette back together and use the nail polish
to seal it shut on the inside (where it came apart).
- When that disk is in a drive, the drive head attempts to read
the disk, which causes a small fire (ENOUGH HEAT TO MELT THE DISK
DRIVE AND FUCK THE HEAD UP!!). ahahahahaha! Let the fuckhead try
and fix THAT!!! -Jolly Roger-
Unlisted Phone Numbers by The Jolly Roger
There are a couple of different ways of doing this. Let's see if
this one will help: Every city has one or more offices dedicated
to assigning numbers to the telephone wire pairs. These offices
are called DPAC offices and are available to service reps who are
installing or repairing phones. To get the DPAC number, a service
rep would call the customer service number for billing information
in the town that the number is located in that he is trying to get
the unlisted number of. (Got that?) The conversation would go
something like this: "Hi, Amarillo, this is Joe from Anytown
business office, I need the DPAC number for the south side of
town." This info is usually passed out with no problems, so... if
the first person you call doesn't have it, try another. REMEMBER,
no one has ANY IDEA who the hell you are when you are talking on
the phone, so you can be anyone you damn well please! (heheheheh!)
When you call the DPAC number, just tell them that you need a
listing for either the address that you have, or the name. DPAC
DOES NOT SHOW WHETHER THE NUMBER IS LISTED OR UNLISTED!! Also, if
you're going to make a habit of chasing numbers down, you might
want to check into geting a criss-cross directory, which lists
phone numbers by their addresses. It costs a couple-a-hundred bux,
but it is well worth it if you have to chase more than one or two
numbers down! -Jolly Roger-
Fuses brought to you by The Jolly Roger
You would be surprised how many files are out there that use what
falls under the category of a "fuse." They assume that you just
have a few lying around, or know where to get them. Well, in some
parts of the country, fuses are extremely hard to come by... so
this file tells you how to make your own. Both fuses presented
here are fairly simple to make, and are fairly reliable.
SLOW BURNING FUSE
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ (approx. 2 inches per minute)
Materials needed:
- Cotton string or 3 shoelaces
- Potassium Nitrate or Potassium Chlorate
- Granulated sugar
Procedure:
- Wash the cotton string or showlaces in HOT soapy water, then
rinse with fresh water
- Mix the following together in a glass bowl:
1 part potassium nitrate or potassium chlorate
1 part granulated sugar
2 parts hot water
- Soak strings or shoelaces in this solution
- Twist/braid 3 strands together and allow them to dry
- Check the burn rate to see how long it actually takes!!
FAST BURNING FUSE
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ (40 inches per minute)
Materials needed:
-Soft cotton string
-fine black powder (empty a few shotgun shells!)
-shallow dish or pan
Procedure:
- moisten powder to form a paste
- twist/braid 3 strands of cotton together
- rub paste into string and allow to dry
- Check the burn rate!!!
How to make Potassium Nitrate by The Jolly Roger
Potassium Nitrate is an ingredient in making fuses, among other
things. Here is how you make it:
Materials needed:
-3.5 gallons of nitrate bearing earth or other material
-1/2 cup of wood ashes
-Bucket or other similar container about 4-5 gallons in volume
-2 pieces of finely woven cloth, each a bit bigger than the
bottom of the bucket
-Shallow dish or pan at least as large in diameter as the bucket
-Shallow, heat resistant container
-2 gallons of water
-Something to punch holes in the bottom of the bucket
-1 gallon of any type of alcohol
-A heat source
-Paper & tape
Procedure:
- Punch holes on the inside bottom of the bucket, so that the
metal is"puckered" outward from the bottom
- Spread cloth over the holes from the bottom
- Place wood ashes on the cloth. Spread it out so that it covers
the entire cloth and has about the same thickness.
- Place 2nd cloth on top of the wood ashes
- Place the dirt or other material in the bucket
- Place the bucket over the shallow container. NOTE: It may need
support on the bottom so that the holes on the bottom are not
blocked.
- Boil water and pour it over the earth very slowly. Do NOT pour
it all at once, as this will clog the filter on the bottom.
- Allow water to run through holes into the shallow dish on the
bottom.
- Be sure that the water goes through ALL of the earth!
- Allow water in dish to cool for an hour or so
- Carefully drain the liquid in the dish away, and discard the
sludge in the bottom
- Boil this liquid over a fire for at least two hours. Small
grains of salt will form - scoop these out with the paper as they
form
- When the liquid has boiled down to 1/2 its original volume let
it sit
- After 1/2 hour, add equal volume of the alcohol; when this
mixture is poured through paper, small white crystals appear. This
is the posassium nitrate.
Purification:
- Redissolve crystals in small amount of boiling water
- Remove any crystals that appear
- Pour through improvised filter then heat concentrated solution
to dryness.
- Spread out crystals and allow to dry
Exploding lightbulbs by The Jolly Roger
Materials needed:
-lightbulb (100w)
-socket (duh...)
-1/4 cup soap chips
-blackpowder! (open some shotgun shells!)
-1/4 cup kerosene orgasoline
-adhesive tape
-lighter or small blowtorch
-glue
Procedure for a simple exploding lightbulb:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
- Drill a small hole in the top of the bulb near the threads!
- Carefully pour the blackpowder into the hole. Use enough so
that it touches the filament!
- Insert into socket as normal (make sure the light is off or
else YOU will be the victim!!)
- Get the hell out!!
Procedure for a Napam Bulb:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
- Heat kerosene/gasoline in a double boiler
- Melt soap chips, stirring slowly.
- Put somewhere and allow to cool
- Heat the threads of the bulb VERY carefully to melt the glue.
Remove threads, slowly drawing out the filament. Do NOT break the
cheap electrical igniters and/or the filament or this won't work!!
- Pour the liquid into the bulb, and slowly lower the filament
back down into the bulb. Make sure the filament is dipped into the
fluid.
- Re-glue the threads back on. Insert it into a socket frequently
used by the victim and get the hell out!!
When the victim flips the switch, he will be in for a BIG surprise!
Have fun! -Jolly Roger-
Under water igniters by The Jolly Roger
Materials needed:
-Pack of 10 silicon diodes (available at Radio Shack. you will
know you got the right ones if they are very, very small glass
objects!)
-Pack of matches
-1 candle
Procedure:
- Light the candle and allow a pool of molten wax to form in the
top.
- Take a single match and hold the glass part of a single diode
against the head. Bend the diode pins around the matchhead so that
one wraps in an upward direction and thensticks out to the side.
Do the same with the other wire, but in a downward direction. The
diodes should now be hugging the matchhead, but its wires MUST NOT
TOUCH EACH OTHER!
- Dip the matchhead in wax to give it a water-proof coat. These
work underwater
- repeat to make as many as you want
How to use them:
When these little dudes are hooked across a 6v battery, the diode
reaches what is called breakdown voltage. When most electrical
components reach this voltage, they usually produce great amounts
of heat and light, while quickly melting into a little blob. This
heat is enough to ignite a matchhead. These are recommended for
use underwater, where most other igniters refuse to work. ENJOY!
-Jolly Roger-
Home-brew blast cannon by The Jolly Roger
Materials needed:
-1 plastic drain pipe, 3 feet long, at least 3 1/2 inches in
diameter
-1 smaller plastic pipe, about 6 inches long, 2 inches in
diameter
-1 large lighter, with fluid refills (this gobbles it up!)
-1 pipe cap to fit the large pipe, 1 pipe cap to fit the small
pipe
-5 feet of bellwire
-1 SPST rocker switch
-16v polaroid pot-a-pulse battery
-15v relay (get this at Radio Shack)
-Electrical Tape
-One free afternoon
Procedure:
- Cut the bell wire into three equal pieces, and strip the ends
- Cut a hole in the side of the large pipe, the same diameter as
the small pipe. Thread the hole and one end of the small pipe.
they should screw together easily.
- Take a piece of scrap metal, and bend it into an "L" shape,
then attach it to the level on the lighter:
/------------------------gas switch is here
V
/------
!lighter!!<---metal lever
!!!
!!
Now, every time you pull the 'trigger' gas should flow freely from
the lighter. You may need to enlarge the 'gas port' on your
lighter, if you wish to be able to fire more rapidly.
- Connect two wires to the two posts on the switch
- Cut two holes in the side of the smaller tube, one for the
switch on the bottom, and one for the metal piece on the top.
Then, mount the switch in the bottom, running the wires up and out
of the top.
- Mount the lighter/trigger in the top. Now the switch should
rock easily, and the trigger should cause the lighter to pour out
gas. Re-screw the smaller tube into the larger one, hold down the
trigger a bit, let it go, and throw a match in there. If all goes
well, you should hear a nice big 'THUD!'
- Get a hold of the relay, and take off the top.
1---------------
v/
2--------------/<--- the center object is the metal finger inside
3 the relay
cc-------------/
oo----------------4
ii
ll----------------5
Connect (1) to one of the wires coming from the switch. Connect
(2) to (4), and connect (5) to one side of the battery. Connect
the remaining wire from the switch to the other side of the
battery. Now you should be able to get the relay to make a little
'buzzing' sound when you flip the switch and you should see some
tiny little sparks.
- Now, carefully mount the relay on the inside of the large pipe,
towards the back. Screw on the smaller pipe, tape the battery to
the side of the cannon barrel (yes, but looks aren't everything!)
- You should now be able to let a little gas into the barrel and
set it off by flipping the switch.
- Put the cap on the back end of the large pipe VERY SECURELY.
You are now ready for the first trial-run!
To Test:
Put something very, very large into the barrel, just so that it
fits 'just right'. Now, find a strong guy (the recoil will
probably knock you on your ass if you aren't careful!). Put on a
shoulderpad, earmuffs, and possibly some other protective clothing
(trust the Jolly Roger! You are going to need it!). Hold the
trigger down for 30 seconds, hold on tight, and hit the switch.
With luck and the proper adjustments, you should be able to put a
frozed orange through 1/4 or plywood at 25 feet.
Have fun! -Jolly Roger-
Chemical Equivalency list by the Jolly Roger
Acacia..................................................Gum Arabic
Acetic Acid................................................Vinegar
Aluminum Oxide..............................................Alumia
Aluminum Potassium Sulphate...................................Alum
Aluminum Sulfate..............................................Alum
Ammonium Carbonate.......................................Hartshorn
Ammonium Hydroxide.........................................Ammonia
Ammonium Nitrate........................................Salt Peter
Ammonium Oleate.......................................Ammonia Soap
Amylacetate............................................Bananna Oil
Barium Sulfide...........................................Black Ash
Carbon Carbinate.............................................Chalk
Carbontetrachloride.................................Cleaning Fluid
Calcium Hypochloride..............................Bleaching Powder
Calcium Oxide.................................................Lime
Calcium Sulfate...................................Plaster of Paris
Carbonic Acid..............................................Seltzer
Cetyltrimethylammoniumbromide........................Ammonium Salt
Ethylinedichloride.....................................Dutch Fluid
Ferric Oxide.............................................Iron Rust
Furfuraldehyde............................................Bran Oil
Glucose.................................................Corn Syrup
Graphite...............................................Pencil Lead
Hydrochloric Acid....................................Muriatic Acid
Hydrogen Peroxide.........................................Peroxide
Lead Acetate.........................................Sugar of Lead
Lead Tero-oxide...........................................Red Lead
Magnesium Silicate............................................Talc
Magnesium Sulfate.......................................Epsom Salt
Methylsalicylate..................................Winter Green Oil
Naphthalene..............................................Mothballs
Phenol...............................................Carbolic Acid
Potassium Bicarbonate..............................Cream of Tarter
Potassium Chromium Sulfate..............................Chromealum
Potassium Nitrate.......................................Salt Peter
Sodium Oxide..................................................Sand
Sodium Bicarbonate.....................................Baking Soda
Sodium Borate................................................Borax
Sodium Carbonate......................................Washing Soda
Sodium Chloride...............................................Salt
Sodium Hydroxide...............................................Lye
Sodium Silicate..............................................Glass
Sodium Sulfate......................................Glauber's Salt
Sodium Thiosulfate.............................Photographer's Hypo
Sulfuric Acid.........................................Battery Acid
Sucrose.................................................Cane Sugar
Zinc Chloride.......................................Tinner's Fluid
Zinc Sulfate.........................................White Vitriol
Phone Taps by The Jolly Roger
Here is some info on phone taps. In this file is a schematic for a
simple wiretap & instructions for hooking up a small tape recorder
control relay to the phone line.
First, I will discuss taps a little. There are many different
types of taps. there are transmitters, wired taps, and induction
taps to name a few. Wired and wireless transmitters must be
physically connected to the line before they will do any good.
Once a wireless tap is connected to the line,it can transmit all
conversations over a limited reception range. The phones in the
house can even be modifies to pick up conversations in the room
and transmit them too! These taps are usually powered off of the
phone line, but can have an external power source. You can get more
information on these taps by getting an issue of Popular
Communications and reading through the ads. Wired taps, on the
other hand, need no power source, but a wire must be run from the
line to the listener or to a transmitter. There are obvious
advantages of wireless taps over wired ones. There is one type of
wireless tap that looks like a normal telephone mike. All you have
to do is replace the original mike with thisand itwill transmit
all conversations! There is also an exotic type of wired tap known
as the 'Infinity Transmitter' or 'Harmonica Bug'. In order to hook
one of these, it must be installed inside the phone. When someone
calls the tapped phone & *before* it rings,blows a whistle over
the line, the transmitter picks up the phone via a relay. The mike
on the phone is activated so that the caller can hear all of the
conversations in the room. There is a sweep tone test at
415/BUG-1111 which can be used to detect one of these taps. If one
of these is on your line & the test # sends the correct tone, you
will hear a click. Induction taps have one big advantage over taps
that must be physically wired to the phone. They do not have to be
touching the phone in order to pick up the conversation. They work
on the same principle as the little suction-cup tape recorder
mikes that you can get at Radio Shack. Induction mikes can be
hooked up to a transmitter or be wired.
Here is an example of industrial espionage using the phone:
A salesman walks into an office & makes a phone call. He fakes
the conversation, but when he hangs up he slips some foam rubber
cubes into the cradle. The called party can still hear all
conversations in the room. When someone picks up the phone, the
cubes fall away unnoticed.
A tap can also be used on a phone to overhear what your modem is
doing when you are wardialing, hacking, or just plain calling a
bbs (like the White Ruins! Denver, Colorado! 55 megs online!
Atari! Macintosh! Amiga! Ibm! CALL IT! 303-972-8566! By the way, i
did this ad without the sysops consent or knowledge!).
Here is the schematic:
-------)!----)!(------------->
)!(
Cap ^ )!(
)!(
)!(
)!(
^^^^^---)!(------------->
^ 100K
!
! <Input
The 100K pot is used for volume. It should be on its highest
(least resistance) setting if you hook a speaker across the
output. but it should be set on its highest resistance for a tape
recorder or amplifier. You may find it necessary to add another
10 - 40K. The capacitor should be around .47 MFD. It's only
purpose is to prevent the relay in the phone from tripping &
thinking that you have the phone off of the hook. the audio output
transformer is available at Radio Shack. (part # 273-138E for
input). The red & the white wires go to the output device. You may
want to experiment with the transformer for the best output.
Hooking up a tape recorder relay is easy. Just hook one of the phone
wires (usually red) to the the end of one of the relay & the ther
end just loop around. This bypasses it. It should look like this:
------^^^^^^^^^------------
---------
RELAY^^
(part #275-004 from Radio Shack works fine)
If you think that you line is tapped, the first thing to do is to
physically inspect the line yourself ESPECIALLY the phones. You
can get mike replacements with bug detectors built in. However, I
would not trust them too much. It is too easy to get a wrong
reading.
For more info:
BUGS AND ELECTRONIC SURVEILANCE from Desert Publications
HOW TO AVOID ELECTRONIC EAVESDROPPING & PRIVACY INVASION. I do not
remember who this one is from... you might want to try Paladin
Press.
-Jolly Roger-
How to make a landmine by The Jolly Roger
First, you need to get a pushbutton switch. Take the wires of it
and connect one to a nine volt battery connector and the other to
a solar igniter (used for launching model rockets). A very thin
piece of stereo wire will usually do the trick if you are
desperate, but I recommend the igniter. Connect the other wire of
the nine-volt battery to one end of the switch. Connect a wire
from the switch to the other lead on the solar igniter.
switch-----------battery
\ /
\ /
\ /
\ /
solar igniter
|
|
|
explosive
Now connect the explosive (pipe bomb, m-80, CO2 bomb, etc.) to the
igniter by attaching the fuse to the igniter (seal it with scotch
tape). Now dig a hole; not too deep but enough to cover all of the
materials. Think about what direction your enemy will be coming from
and plant the switch, but leave the button visible (not TOO
visible!). Plant the explosive about 3-5 feet away from the switch
because there will be a delay in the explosion that depends on how
short your wick is, and, if a homemade wick is being used, its
burning speed. But if you get it right... and your enemy is close
enough......... BBBBBBBOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMM! hahahaha
-Jolly Roger-
A different kind of Molitoff Cocktail by the Jolly Roger
Here is how you do it:
- Get a coke bottle & fill it with gasoline about half full
- Cram a piece of cloth into the neck of it nice and tight
- Get a chlorine tablet and stuff it in there. You are going to have
to force it because the tablets are bigger than the opening of the
bottle.
- Now find a suitable victim and wing it in their direction. When it
hits the pavement or any surface hard enough to break it, and the chlorine
and gasoline mix..... BOOM!!!!!!
Have fun! -Jolly Roger-
A different kind of Molitoff Cocktail by the Jolly Roger
Here is how you do it:
- Get a coke bottle & fill it with gasoline about half full
- Cram a piece of cloth into the neck of it nice and tight
- Get a chlorine tablet and stuff it in there. You are going to have
to force it because the tablets are bigger than the opening of the
bottle.
- Now find a suitable victim and wing it in their direction. When it
hits the pavement or any surface hard enough to break it, and the chlorine
and gasoline mix..... BOOM!!!!!!
Have fun! -Jolly Roger-
Phone Systems Tutorial by The Jolly Roger
To start off, we will discuss the dialing procedures for domestic
as well as international dialing. We will also take a look at the
telephone numbering plan.
North American Numbering Plan
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
In North America, the telephone numbering plan is as follows:
A) a 3 digit Numbering Plan Area (NPA) code , ie, area code
B) a 7 digit telephone # consisting of a 3 digit Central Office
(CO) code plus a 4 digit station #
These 10 digits are called the network address or destination
code. It is in the format of:
Area Code Telephone #
--------- -----------
N*X NXX-XXXX
Where: N = a digit from 2 to 9
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* = the digit 0 or 1
X = a digit from 0 to 9
Area Codes
~~~~~~~~~~
Check your telephone book or the seperate listing of area codes
found on many bbs's. Here are the special area codes (SAC's):
510 - TWX (USA)
610 - TWX (Canada)
700 - New Service
710 - TWX (USA)
800 - WATS
810 - TWX (USA)
900 - DIAL-IT Services
910 - TWX (USA)
The other area codes never cross state lines, therefore each state
must have at least one exclusive NPA code. When a community is
split by a state line, the CO #'s are often interchangeable (ie,
you can dial the same number from two different area codes).
TWX (Telex II) consists of 5 teletype-writer area codes. They are
owned by Western Union. These SAC's may only be reached via other
TWX machines. These run at 110 baud (last I checked! They are most
likely faster now!). Besides the TWX #'s, these machines are
routed to normal telephone #'s. TWX machines always respond with
an answerback. For example, WU's FYI TWX # is (910) 279-5956. The
answerback for this service is "WU FYI MAWA".
If you don't want to but a TWX machine, you can still send TWX
messages using Easylink [800/325-4112]. However you are gonna have
to hack your way onto this one!
700:
700 is currently used by AT&T as a call forwarding service. It is
targeted towards salesmen on the run. To understand how this
works, I'll explain it with an example. Let's say Joe Q. Salespig
works for AT&T security and he is on the run chasing a phreak
around the country who royally screwed up an important COSMOS
system. Let's say that Joe's 700 # is (700) 382-5968. Everytime
Joe goes to a new hotel (or most likely SLEAZY MOTEL), he dials a
special 700 #, enters a code, and the number where he is staying.
Now, if his boss received some important info, all he would do is
dial (700) 382-5968 and it would ring wherever Joe last progammed
it to. Neat, huh?
800:
This SAC is one of my favourites since it allows for toll free
calls. INWARD WATS (INWATS), or Inward Wide Area
Telecommunications Service is the 800 #'s that we are all familiar
with. 800 #'s are set up in service areas or bands. There are 6 of
these. Band 6 is the largest and you can call a band 6 # from
anywhere in the US except the state where the call is terminated
(that is why most companies have one 800 number for the countery
and then another one for their state.) Band 5 includes the 48
contiguous states. All the way down to band 1 which includes only
the states contiguous to that one. Therefore, less people can
reach a band 1 INWATS # than a band 6 #.
Intrastate INWATS #'s (ie, you can call it from only 1 state)
always have a 2 as the last digit in the exchange (ie, 800-NX2-
XXXX). The NXX on 800 #'s represent the area where the business is
located. For example, a # beginning with 800-431 would terminate
at a NY CO.
800 #'s always end up in a hunt series in a CO. This means that it
tries the first # allocated to the company for their 800 lines; if
this is busy, it will try the next #, etc. You must have a minimum
of 2 lines for each 800 #. For example, Travelnet uses a hunt
series. If you dial (800) 521-8400, it will first try the #
associated with 8400; if it is busy it will go to the next
available port, etc. INWATS customers are billed by the number of
hours of calls made to their #.
OUTWATS (OUTWARD WATS): OUTWATS are for making outgoing calls
only. Largecompanies use OUTWATS since they receive bulk-rate
discounts. Since OUTWATS numbers cannot have incoming calls, they
are in the format of:
(800) *XXX-XXXX
Where * is the digit 0 or 1 (or it may even be designated by a
letter) which cannot be dialed unless you box the call. The *XX
identifies the type of service and the areas that the company can
call.
Remember:
INWATS + OUTWATS = WATS EXTENDER
900:
This DIAL-IT SAC is a nationwide dial-it service. It is use for
taking television polls and other stuff. The first minute
currently costs an outrageous 50-85 cents and each additional
minute costs 35-85 cents. Hell takes in a lot of revenue this way!
Dial (900) 555-1212 to find out what is currently on this service.
CO CODES
~~~~~~~~
These identify the switching office where the call is to be
routed. The following CO codes are reserved nationwide:
555 - directory assistance
844 - time. These are now in!
936 - weather the 976 exchange
950 - future services
958 - plant test
959 - plant test
970 - plant test (temporary)
976 - DIAL-IT services
Also, the 3 digit ANI & ringback #'s are regarded as plant test
and are thus reserved. These numbers vary from area to area.
You cannot dial a 0 or 1 as the first digit of the exchange code
(unless using a blue box!). This is due to the fact that these
exchanges (000-199) contains all sorts of interesting shit such as
conference #'s, operators, test #'s, etc.
950:
Here are the services that are currently used by the 950 exchange:
1000 - SPC
1022 - MCI Execunet
1033 - US Telephone
1044 - Allnet
1066 - Lexitel
1088 - SBS Skyline
These SCC's (Specialized Common Carriers) are free from fortress
phones! Also, the 950 exchange will probably be phased out with
the introduction of Equal Access
Plant Tests:
These include ANI, Ringback, and other various tests.
976:
Dial 976-1000 to see what is currently on the service. Also, many
bbs's have listings of these numbers.
N11 codes:
----------
Bell is trying to phase out some of these, but they still exist in
most areas.
011 - international dialing prefix
211 - coin refund operator
411 - directory assistance
611 - repair service
811 - business office
911 - EMERGENCY
International Dialing
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
With International Dialing, the world has been divided into 9
numbering zones. To make an international call, you must first
dial: International Prefix + Country code + National #
In North America, the international dialing prefix is 011 for
station-to-station calls. If you can dial International #'s
directly in your area then you have International Direct Distance
Dialing (IDDD).
The country code, which varies from 1 to 3 digits, always has the
world numbering zone as the first digit. For example, the country
code for the United Kingdom is 44, thus it is in world numbering
zone 4. Some boards may contain a complete listing of other
country codes, but here I give you a few:
1 - North America (US, Canada, etc.)
20 - Egypt
258 - Mozambique
34 - Spain
49 - Germany
52 - Mexico (southern portion)
7 - USSR
81 - Japan
98 - Iran (call & hassle those bastards!)
If you call from an area other than North America, the format is
generally the same. For example, let's say that you wanted to call
the White House from Switzerland to tell the prez that his
numbered bank account is overdrawn (it happens, you know! ha ha).
First you would dial 00 (the SWISS international dialing refix),
then 1 (the US country code), followed by 202-456-1414 (the
national # for the White House. Just ask for Georgy and give him
the bad news!)
Also, country code 87 is reserved for Maritime mobile service, ie,
calling ships:
871 - Marisat (Atlantic)
871 - Marisat (Pacific)
872 - Marisat (Indian)
International Switching:
------------------------
In North America there are currently 7 no. 4 ESS's that perform
the duty of ISC (Inter-nation Switching Centers). All
international calls dialed from numbering zone 1 will be routed
through one of these "gateway cities". They are:
182 - White Plains, NY
183 - New York, NY
184 - Pittsburgh, PA
185 - Orlando, Fl
186 - Oakland, CA
187 - Denver, CO
188 - New York, NY
The 18X series are operator routing codes for overseas access (to
be furthur discussed with blue boxes). All international calls use
a signaling service called CCITT.It is an international standard
for signaling.
Ok.. there you go for now! If you wanna read more about this, read
part two which is the next file #36 in the Jolly Roger's cookbook!
-Jolly Roger-
Phone Systems Tutorial part II by The Jolly Roger
Part II will deal with the various types of operators, office
heirarchy, & switching equipment.
Operators
~~~~~~~~~
There are many types of operators in the network and the more
common ones will be discussed.
TSPS Operator:
The TSPS [(Traffic Service Position System) ass opposed to This
Shitty Phone Service] Operator is probably the bitch (or bastard,
for the female libertationists out there) that most of us are used
to having to deal with. Here are his/her responsibilities:
1) Obtaning billing information for calling card or third number
calls
2) Identifying called customer on person-to-person calls.
3) Obtaining acceptance of charges on collect calls.
4) Identifying calling numbers. This only happens when the calling
# is not automatically recorded by CAMA (Centralized Automatic
Message Accounting) & forwarded from the local office. This could
be caused by equipment failures (ANIF- Automatic Number
Identification Failure) or if the office is not equipped for CAMA
(ONI- Operator Number Identification).
<I once has an equipment failure happen to me & the TSPS operator
came on and said, "What # are you calling FROM?" Out of curiosity,
I gave her the number to my CO, she thanked me & then I was
connected to a conversation that appeared to be between a frameman
& his wife. Then it started ringing the party I wanted to
originally call & everyone phreaked out (excuse the pun). I
immediately dropped this dual line conference!
You should not mess with the TSPS operator since she KNOWS which
number that you are calling from. Your number will show up on a
10-digit LED read-out (ANI board). She also knows whether or not
you are at a fortress phone & she can trace calls quite readily!
Out of all of the operators, she is one of the MOST DANGEROUS.
INWARD operator:
This operator assists your local TSPS ("0") operatorin connecting
calls. She will never question a call as long as the call is
withing HER SERVICE AREA. She can only be reached via other
operators or by a blue box. From a blue box, you would dial
KP+NPA+121+ST for the INWARD operator that will help you connect
any calls within that NPA only. (Blue Boxing will be discussed in
a future file).
DIRECTORY ASSISTANCE Operator:
This is the operator that you are connected to when you dial: 411
or NPA-555-1212. She does not readily know where you are calling
from. She does not have access to unlisted numbers, but she DOES
know if an unlisted # exists for a certain listing.
There is also a directory assistance operator for deaf people who
use teletypewriters. If your modem can transfer BAUDOT [(45.5
baud). One modem that I know of that will do this is the Apple Cat
acoustic or the Atari 830 acoustic modem. Yea I know they are hard
to find... but if you wanna do this.. look around!) then you can
call him/her up and have an interesting conversation. The # is:
800-855-1155. They use the standard Telex abbreviations such as GA
for go ahead. they tend to be nicer and will talk longer than your
regular operators. Also, they are more vulnerable into being
talked out of information through the process of "social
engineering" as Chesire Catalyst would put it.
<Unfortunately, they do not have access to much. I once
bullshitted with one of these operators a while back and I found
out that there are 2 such DA offices that handle TTY. One is in
Philadelphia and the other is in California. They have approx. 7
operators each. most of the TTY operators think that their job is
boring (based on an official "BIOC poll"). They also feel that
they are under-paid. They actually call up a regular DA # to
process your request (sorry, no fancy computers!)
Other operators have access to their own DA by dialing
KP+NPA+131+ST (MF).
CN/A operators:
CN/A Operators are operators that do exactly the opposite of what
directory assistance operators are for. In my experience, these
operators know more than the DA op's do & they are more
susceptable to "social engeneering." It is possible to bullshit a
CN/A operator for the NON-PUB DA # (ie, you give them the name &
they give you the unlisted number. See the article on unlisted
numbers in this cookbook for more info about them.). This is due
to the fact that they assume that you are a fellow company
employee. Unfortunately, the AT&T breakup has resulted in the
break-up of a few NON-PUB DA #'s and policy changes in CN/A
INTERCEPT Operator:
The intercept operator is the one that you are connected to when
there are notenough recordings available to tell you that the #
has been disconnected or changed. She usually says, "What # you
callin'?" with a foreign accent. This is the lowest operator
lifeform. Even though they don't know where you are calling from,
it is a waste or your time to try to verbally abuse them since
they usually understand very little English anyway.
Incidentally, a few area DO have intelligent INTERCEPT Operators.
OTHER Operators:
And then there are the: MObile, Ship-to-Shore, Conference, Marine
Verify, "Leave Word and Call Back," Rout & Rate
(KP+800+141+1212+ST), & other special operators who have one
purpose or another in the network.
Problems with an Operator> Ask to speak to their supervisor... or
better yet the Group Chief (who is the highest ranking official in
any office) who is the equivalent of the Madame ina whorehouse.
By the way, some CO's that willallow you to dial a 0 or 1 as the
4th digit, will also allow you to call special operators & other
fun Tel. Co. #'s without a blue box. This is ver rare, though! For
example,212-121-1111 will get you a NY Inward Operator.
Office Hierarchy
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Every switching office in North America (the NPA system), is
assigned an office name and class. There are five classes of
offices numbered 1 through 5. Your CO is most likely a class 5 or
end office. All long-distance (Toll) calls are switched by a toll
office which can be a class 4, 3, 2, or 1 office. There is also a
class 4X office callen an intermediate point. The 4X office is a
digital one that can have an unattended exchange attached to it
(known as a Remote Switching Unit (RSU)).
The following chart will list the Office #, name, & how many of
those office exist (to the best of my knowledge) in North America:
Class Name Abb # Existing
----- ----------------------- --- -----------------
> 1 Regional Center RC 12
> 2 Sectional Center SC 67
> 3 Primary Center PC 230
> 4 Toll Center TC 1,300
> 4P Toll Point TP n/a
> 4X Intermediate Point IP n/a
> 5 End Office EO 19,000
> 6 RSU RSU n/a
When connecting a call from one party to another, the switching
equipment usually tries to find the shortest route between the
class 5 end office of the caller & the class 5 end officeof the
called party. If no inter-office trunks exist between the two
parties, it will then move upward to the next highest office for
servicing calls (Class 4). If the Class 4 office cannot handle the
call by sending it to another Class 4 or 5 office, it will then be
sent to the next highest office in the hierarchy (3). The
switching equipment first uses the high-usage interoffice trunk
groups, if they are busy then it goes to the fina; trunk groups on
the next highest level. If the call cannot be connected, you will
probably get a re-order [120 IPM (interruptions per minute) busy
signal] signal. At this time, the guys at Network Operations are
probably shitting in their pants and trying to avoid the dreaded
Network Dreadlock (as seen on TV!).
It is also interesting to note that 9 connections in tandem is
called ring-around-the-rosy and it has never occured in telephone
history. This would cause an endless loop connection [a neat way
to really screw up the network].
The 10 regional centers in the US & the 2 in Canada are all
interconnected. they form the foundation of the entire telephone
network. Since there are only 12 of them, they are listed below:
Class 1 Regional Office Location NPA
-------------------------------- ---
Dallas 4 ESS 214
Wayne, PA 215
Denver 4T 303
Regina No. 2SP1-4W (Canada) 306
St. Louis 4T 314
Rockdale, GA 404
Pittsburgh 4E 412
Montreal No. 1 4AETS (Canada) 504
That's it for now! More info to come Future update to the
Cookbook! Have fun! -Jolly Roger-
Basic Alliance Teleconferencing Courtesy of the Jolly Roger
Introduction:
------------
This phile will deal with accessing, understanding and using the Alliance
Teleconferencing Systems.... it has many sections and for best use should
be printed out...enjoy...
Alliance:
--------
Alliance Teleconferencing is an independant company which allows the general
public to access and use it's conferencing equipment. Many rumors have
been floating apound that Alliance is a subsidary of AT&T.
Well, they are wrong. As stated above, Alliance is an entirely independant
company. They use sophisticated equipment to allow users to talk to many
people at once.
The Number:
---------
Alliance is in the 700 exchange, thus it is not localized, well, not
in a way. Alliance is only in certain states, and only
residents of these certain states can access by dialing direct. This,
however, will be discussed in a later chapter. The numbers for alliance are
as follows:
0-700-456-1000 (chicago)
-1001 (los angeles)
-1002 (chicago)
-1003 (houston)
-2000 (?)
-2001 (?)
-2002 (?)
-2003 (?)
-3000 (?)
-3001 (?)
-3002 (?)
-3003 (?)
The locations of the first 4 numbers are known and i have stated them.
However, the numbers in the 200x and 300x are not definately known.
Rumor has it that the pattern repeats itself but this has not been proven.
Dialing:
-------
As stated before, Alliance is only in certain stated and only these states
can access them via dialing direct. However, dialing direct causes your
residence to be charged for the conference and conference bills are not low!!!
Therefore, many ways have been discovered to start a conference without
having it billed to ones house. They are as follows:
1) Dialing through a PBX
2) Incorporating a Blue Box
3) Billing to a loop
4) Billing to a forwarded call
I am sure there are many more but these are the four i will deal with.
Dialing through a PBX:
------- ------- - ---
Probably the easiest method of creating a free conference is through a PBX.
Simply call one in a state that has Alliance, input the PBX's code,
dial 9 for an outside line and then dial alliance.
An example of this would be:
PBX: 800-241-4911
When it answers it will give you a tone. At this tone input your code.
Code: 1234
After this you will receive another tone, now dial 9 for an outside line.
You will now hear a dial tone. Simply dial Alliance from this point and
the conference will be billed to the PBX.
Using a Blue Box:
----- - ---- ---
Another rather simple way of starting a conference is with a Blue Box.
The following procedure is how to box a conference:
Dial a number to box off of. In this example we will use 609-609-6099
When the party answers hit 2600hz. This will cause the fone company's
equipment to think that you have hung up. You will hear a <kerchunk>
You have now 'seized' a trunk. After this, switch to multi-frequency
and dial:
KP-0-700-456-x00x-ST
KP=KP tone on Blue Box
x=variable between 1 and 3
ST=ST tone on Blue Box
The equipment now thinks that the operator has dialed Alliance from her
switchboard and the conference shall be billed there. Since Blue Boxing
is such a large topic, this is as far as I will go into it's uses.
Billing to a loop:
------- -- - ----
A third method of receiving a free conference is by billing out to a
loop. A loop is 2 numbers that when two people call, they can talk
to each other. You're saying woop-tee-do right? Wrong! Loops can be
<very> usefull to phreaks. First, dial alliance direct. After going
through the beginning procedure, which will be discussed later in this
tutorial, dial 0 and wait for an Alliance operator. When she answers
tell her you would like to bill the conference to such and such a
number. (A loop where your phriend is on the other side) She will then
call that number to receive voice verification.
Of course your phriend will be waiting and will accept the charges.
Thus, the conference is billed to the loop.
Billing to call forwarding:
------- -- ---- ----------
When you dial a number that is call forwarded, it is first answered by
the original location, then forwarded. The original location will
hang up if 2600hz is received from only ond end of the line.
Therefore, if you were to wait after the forwarded residence answered,
you would receive the original location's dial tone.
Example:
Dial 800-325-4067
The original residence would answer, then forward the call, a second
type of ringing would be heard. When this second residence answers
simply wait until they hang up. After about twenty seconds you will
then receive the original residence's dial tone since it heard 2600hz
from one end of the line. Simply dial Alliance from this point and the
conference will be billed to the original residence.
These are the four main ways to receive a free conference. I am sure
many more exist, but these four are quite handy themselves.
Logon Procedure:
----- ---------
Once Alliance answers you will hear a two-tone combination. This is their
way of saying 'How many people do you want on the conference dude?'
Simply type in a 2-digit combination, depending on what bridge of Alliance
you are on, between 10 and 59. After this either hit '*' to cancel the
conference size and inout another or hit '#' to continue.
You are now in Alliance Teleconferencing and are only seconds away from
having your own roaring conference going strong!!!
Dialing in Conferees:
------- -- ---------
To dial your first conferee, dial 1+npa+pre+suff and await his/her answer.
npa=area code
pre=prefix
suff=suffix
If the number is busy, or if no one answers simply hit '*' and your call
will be aborted. But, if they do answer, hit the '#' key.
This will add them to the conference.
Now commence dialing other conferees.
Joining Your Conference:
------- ---- ----------
To join your conference from control mode simply hit the '#' key.
Within a second or two you will be chatting with all your buddies.
To go back into control mode, simply hit the '#' key again.
Transferring Control:
------------ -------
To transfer control to another conferee, go into control mode, hit the
# 6+1+npa+pre+suff of the conferee you wish to give control to. If after,
you wish to abort this transfer hit the '*' key.
<note>:Transfer of control is often not available. When you
receive a message stating this, you simply cannot transfer control.
Muted Conferences:
----- -----------
To request a muted conference simply hit the 9 key. I am not exactly
sure what a muted conference is but it is probably a way to keep unwanted
eavesdroppers from listening in.
Dialing Alliance Operators:
------- -------- ---------
Simply dial 0 as you would from any fone and wait for the operator to answer.
Ending Your Conference:
------ ---- ----------
To end your conference all together, that is kick everyone including
yourself off, go into control mode and hit '*'...after a few seconds
simply hang up. Your conference is over.
Are Alliance Operators Dangerous?
--- -------- --------- ---------
No. Not in the least. The worst they can do to you while you are having
a conference is drop all conferees including yourself. This is in no
way harmful, just a little aggravating.
Alliance and Tracing:
-------- --- -------
Alliance can trace, as all citizens of the United States can.
But this has to all be pre-meditated and AT&T has to be called and it's
really a large hastle, therefore, it is almost never done. Alliance simply
does not want it known that teenagers are phucking them over.
The only sort of safety equipment Alliance has on-line is a simple pen
register. This little device simply records all the numbers of the
conferees dialed. No big deal. All Alliance can do is call up that persons
number, threaten and question. However, legally, they can do nothing because
all you did was answer your fone.
<note>:Almost all instructions are told to the person in command by Alliance
recordings. A lot of this tutorial is just a listing of those
commands plus information gathered by either myself or the phellow
phreaks of the world!!!
(written by the Trooper)
Aqua Box Plans by Jolly Roger
Every true phreaker lives in fear of the dreadded F.B.I. 'Lock In Trace.'
For a long time, it was impossible to escape from the Lock In Trace.
This box does offer an escape route with simple directions to it.
This box is quite a simple concept, and almost any phreaker with basic
electronics knowledge can construct and use it.
The Lock In Trace
------------------
A lock in trace is a device used by the F.B.I. to lock into the phone
users location so that he can not hang up while a trace is in progress.
For those of you who are not familiar with the conecpt of 'locking in',
then here's a brief desciption. The F.B.I. can tap into a conversation,
sort of like a three-way call connection. Then, when they get there,
they can plug electricity into the phone line. All phone connections
are held open by a certain voltage of electricity.
That is why you sometimes get static and faint connections when you are
calling far away, because the electricity has trouble keeping the line
up. What the lock in trace does is cut into the line and generate that same
voltage straight into the lines. That way, when you try and hang up, voltage
is retained. Your phone will ring just like someone was calling you
even after you hang up. (If you have call waiting, you should understand
better about that, for call waiting intersepts the electricity and makes
a tone that means someone is going through your line. Then, it is a matter
of which voltage is higher. When you push down the receiver,then it see-saws
the electricity to the other side. When you have a person on each line
it is impossible to hang up unless one or both of them will hang up.
If you try to hang up, voltage is retained, and your phone will ring.
That should give you an understanding of how calling works. Also, when
electricity passes through a certain point on your phone, the electricity
causes a bell to ring, or on some newer phones an electronic ring to sound.)
So, in order to eliminate the trace, you somehow must lower the
voltage level on your phone line. You should know that every time
someone else picks up the phone line, then the voltage does decrease
a little. In the first steps of planning this out, Xerox suggested getting
about a hundred phones all hooked into the same line that could all
be taken off the hook at the same time. That would greatly decrease the
voltage level. That is also why most three-way connections that are using
the bell service three way calling (which is only $3 a month) become quite
faint after a while. By now, you should understand the basic idea. You
have to drain all of the power out of the line so the voltage can
not be kept up. Rather sudden draining of power could quickly short out
the F.B.I. voltage machine, because it was only built to sustain
the exact voltage nessecary to keep the voltage out. For now, imagine
this. One of the normal Radio Shack generators that you can go
pick up that one end of the cord that hooks into the central box has a
phone jack on it and the other has an electrical plug. This way, you
can "flash" voltage through the line, but cannot drain it. So, some
modifications have to be done.
Materials
----------
A BEOC (Basic Electrical Output Socket), like a small lamp-type
connection, where you just have a simple plug and wire that would plug
into a light bulb.
One of cords mentioned above, if you can't find one then construct your
own... Same voltage connection, but the restrainor must be built in (I.E.
The central box)
Two phone jacks (one for the modem, one for if you are being traced to
plug the aqua box into)
Some creativity and easy work.
*Notice: No phones have to be destroyed/modified to make this box, so
don't go out and buy a new phone for it!
Procedure
---------
All right, this is a very simple procedure. If you have the BEOC, it could
drain into anything: a radio, or whatever. The purpose of having
that is you are going to suck the voltage out from the phone line into
the electrical appliance so there would be no voltage left to lock
you in with.
1)Take the connection cord. Examine the plug at the end. It should have
only two prongs. If it has three, still, do not fear. Make sure the
electrical appliance is turned off unless you wanna become a crispy critter
while making this thing. Most plugs will have a hard plastic design on the
top of them to prevent you from getting in at the electrical wires inside.
Well, remove it. If you want to keep the plug (I don't see why...)
then just cut the top off. When you look inside, Lo and Behold,
you will see that at the base of the prongs there are a few wires
connecting in. Those wires conduct the power into the appliance.
So, you carefully unwrap those from the sides and pull them out until
they are about an inch ahead of the prongs. If you don't wanna keep the
jack, then just rip the prongs out. If you are, cover the prongs with
insultation tape so they will not connect with the wires when the power
is being drained from the line.
2)Do the same thing with the prongs on the other plug, so you have the
wires evenly connected. Now, wrap the end of the wires around each other.
If you happen to have the other end of the voltage cord hooked into the
phone, stop reading now, you're too fucking stupid to continue. After
you've wrapped the wires around each other, then cover the whole thing with
the plugs with insulating tape. Then, if you built your own control box
or if you bought one, then cram all the wires into it and reclose it.
That box is your ticket out of this.
3)Re-check everything to make sure it's all in place. This is a pretty
flimsy connection, but on later models when you get more experienced at
it then you can solder away at it and form the whole device into one
big box, with some kind of cheap mattel hand-held game inside to be
the power connector. In order to use it, just keep this box handy.
Plug it into the jack if you want, but it will slightly lower the
voltage so it isn't connected. When you plug it in, if you see sparks,
unplug it and restart the whole thing. But if it just seems fine then leave it.
Use
----
Now, so you have the whole thing plugged in and all... Do not use this
unless the situation is desperate! When the trace has gone on, don't
panic, unplug your phone, and turn on the appliance that it was hooked
to. It will need energy to turn itself on, and here's a great source...
The voltage to keep a phone line open is pretty small and a simple light
bulb should drain it all in and probably short the F.B.I. computer at
the same time.
Happy boxing and stay free! ------------Jolly Roger
Hindenberg Bomb by the Jolly Roger
Needed:1 Balloon
1 Bottle
1 Liquid Plumr
1 Piece Aluminum FoilL
1 Length Fuse
Fill the bottle 3/4 full with Liquid Plumr and add a little piece of
aluminum foil to it. Put the balloon over the neck of the bottle until
the balloon is full of the resulting gas. This is highly flammable
hydrogen.
Now tie the baloon. Now light the fuse, and let it rise.
When the fuse contacts the balloon, watch out!!!
-------[=How to Kill Someone==]------------[=WITH YOUR BARE HANDS=]-----
AN EXCERPT FROM THE ANARCHISTS COOKBOOK.....
Courtesy of the Jolly Roger
This file will explain the basics of hand-to-hand combat, and will tell
of the best places to strike and kill an enemy...
When engaged in hand-to-hand combat, your life is always at stake.
There is only one purpose in combat, and that is to kill your enemy.
Never face an enemy with the idea of knocking him out.
The chances are extremely good that he will kill YOU instead.
When a weapon is not available, one must resort to the full
use of his natural weapons. The natural weapons are:
1. The knife edge of your hands.
2. Fingers folded at the second joint or knuckle.
3. The protruding knuckle of your second finger.
4. The heel of your hand.
5. Your boot
6. Elbows
7. Knees
8. and Teeth.
Attacking is a primary factor. A fight was never
won by defensive action. Attack with all of your strength.
At any point or any situation, some vulnerable point on your enemies
body will be open for attack. Do this while screaming as screaming has
two purposes.
1. To frighten and confuse your enemy.
2. To allow you to take a deep breath which, in turn, will put
more oxygen in your blood stream. Your balance and balance of your
enemy are two inportant factors; since, if you succeed in making
your enemy lose his balance, the chances are nine to
one that you can kill him in your next move. The best over-all
stance is where your feet are spread about shoulders width apart,
with your right foot about a foot ahead of the left. Both arms
should be bent at the elbows parallel to each other. Stand on the
balls of your feet and bend your waist slightly. Kinda of like a
boxer's crouch. Employing a sudden movement or a scream or yell can
throw your enemy off-balance. There are many vulnerable points of
the body. We will cover them now:
Eyes:Use your fingers in a V-shape and attack in gouging motion.
Nose:(Extremely vulnerable) Strike with the knife edge of the hand
along the bridge, which will cause breakage, sharp pain, temporary
blindness, and if the blow is hard enough, death. Also, deliver a blow
with the heel of your hand in an upward motion, this¢will shove the
bone up into the brain causing death.
Adam's Apple: This spot is usually pretty well protected, but if you
get the chance, strike hard with the knife edge of your hand. This
should sever the wind-pipe, and then it's all over in a matter of
minutes.
Temple: There is a large artery up here, and if you hit it hard
enough, it will cause death. If you manage to knock your enemy down,
kick him in the temple, and he'll never get up again.
Back of the Neck: A rabbit punch, or blow delivered to the base of
the neck can easily break it, but to be safe, it is better to
use the butt of a gun or some other heavy blunt object.
Upper lip: A large network of nerves are located. These nerves are
extrememly close to the skin. A sharp upward blow will cause extreme
pain, and unconciosness.
Ears: Coming up from behind an enemy and cupping the hands in a clapping
motion over the victims ears can kill him immediately. The vibrations
caused from the clapping motion will burst his eardrums, and cause
internal bleeding in the brain.
Groin: A VERY vulnerable spot. If left open, get it with knee
hard, and he'll buckle over very fast.
Kidneys: A large nerve that branches off to the spinal cord comes very
close to the skin at the kidneys. A direct blow with the knife edge
of your hand can cause death.
There are many more ways to kill and injure an enemy, but these should
work best for the average person. This is meant only as information
and I would not recommend that you use this for a simple High School Brawl.
Use these methods only, in your opinion, if your life is in danger.
Any one of these methods could very easily kill or cause permanent damage
to someone. One more word of caution, you should practice these moves
before using them on a dummy, or a mock battle with a friend.
(You don't have to actually hit him to practice, just work on accuracy.)
Phone Systems Tutorial III by The Jolly Roger
PREFACE:
THIS ARTICLE WILL FOCUS PRIMARILY ON THE STANDARD WESTERN ELECTRIC SINGLE-
SLOT COIN TELEPHONE (AKA FORTRESS FONE) WHICH CAN BE DIVIDED INTO 3 TYPES:
- DIAL-TONE FIRST (DTF)
- COIN-FIRST (CF): (IE, IT WANTS YOUR $ BEFORE YOU RECEIVE A DIAL TONE)
- DIAL POST-PAY SERVICE (PP): YOU PAYAFTER THE PARTY ANSWERS
DEPOSITING COINS (SLUGS):
-------------------------
ONCE YOU HAVE DEPOSITED YOUR SLUG INTO A FORTRESS, IT IS SUBJECTED TO A
GAMUT OF TESTS. THE FIRST OBSTACAL FOR A SLUG IS THE
MAGNETIC TRAP. THIS WILL STOP ANY LIGHT-WEIGHT MAGNETIC SLUGS AND COINS.
IF IT PASSES THIS, THE SLUG IS THEN CLASSIFIED AS A NICKEL, DIME, OR
QUARTER. EACH SLUG IS THEN CHECKED FOR APPROPRIATE SIZE AND WEIGHT. IF THESE
TESTS ARE PASSED, IT WILL THEN TRAVEL THROUGH A NICKEL, DIME, OR QUARTER
MAGNET AS APPROPRIATE. THESE MAGNETS SET UP AN EDDY CURRENT EFFECT WHICH
CAUSES COINS OF THE APPROPRIATE CHARACTERISTICS TO SLOW DOWN SO THEY
WILL FOLLOW THE CORRECT TRAJECTORY. IF ALL GOES WELL, THE COIN WILL FOLLOW THE
CORRECT PATH (SUCH AS BOUNCING OFF OF THE NICKEL ANVIL) WHERE IT WILL
HOPEFULLY FALL INTO THE NARROW ACCEPTED COIN CHANNEL.
THE RATHER ELABORATE TESTS THAT ARE PERFORMED AS THE COIN TRAVELS DOWN THE
COIN CHUTE WILL STOP MOST SLUGS AND OTHER UNDESIRABLE COINS, SUCH AS
PENNIES, WHICH MUST THEN BE RETRIEVED USING THE COIN RELEASE LEVER.
IF THE SLUG MIRACULOUSLY SURVIVES THE GAMUT, IT WILL THEN STRIKE THE
APPROPRIATE TOTALIZER ARM CAUSING A RATCHET WHEEL TO ROTATE ONCE FOR EVERY
5-CENT INCREMENT (EG, A QUARTER WILL CAUSE IT TO ROTATE 5 TIMES).
THE TOTALIZER THEN CAUSES THE COIN SIGNAL OSCILLATOR TO READOUT A DUAL-
FREQUENCY SIGNAL INDICATING THE VALUE DEPOSITED TO ACTS (A COMPUTER) OR THE
TSPS OPERATOR. THESE ARE THE SAME TONES USED BY PHREAKS IN THE INFAMOUS RED
BOXES. FOR A QUARTER, 5 BEEP TONES ARE
OUTPULSED AT 12-17 PULSES PER SECOND (PPS). A DIME CAUSES 2 BEEP TONES AT
5 - 8.5 PPS WHILE A NICKEL CAUSES ONE BEEP TONE AT 5 - 8.5 PPS. A BEEP
CONSISTS OF 2 TONES: 2200 + 1700 HZ. A RELAY IN THE FORTRESS CALLED THE "B
RELAY" (YES, THERE IS ALSO AN 'A RELAY') PLACES A CAPACITOR ACROSS THE
SPEECH CIRCUIT DURING TOTALIZER READOUT TO PREVENT THE "CUSTOMER" FROM
HEARING THE RED BOX TONES. IN OLDER 3 SLOT PHONES: ONE BELL
(1050-1100 HZ) FOR A NICKEL, TWO BELLS FOR A DIME, AND ONE GONG (800 HZ) FOR A
QUARTER ARE USED INSTEAD OF THE MODERN DUAL-FREQUENCY TONES.
=============
=TSPS & ACTS=
=============
WHILE FORTRESSES ARE CONNECTED TO THE CO OF THE AREA, ALL TRANSACTIONS ARE
HANDLED VIA THE TRAFFIC SERVICE POSITION SYSTEM (TSPS). IN AREAS THAT
DO NOT HAVE ACTS, ALL CALLS THAT REQUIRE OPERATOR ASSISTANCE, SUCH AS
CALLING CARD AND COLLECT, ARE AUTOMATICALLY ROUTED TO A TSPS OPERATOR
POSITION. IN AN EFFORT TO AUTOMATE FORTRESS
SERVICE, A COMPUTER SYSTEM KNOWN AS AUTOMATED COIN TOLL SERVICE (ACTS) HAS
BEEN IMPLEMENTED IN MANY AREAS. ACTS LISTENS TO THE RED BOX SIGNALS FROM THE
FONES AND TAKES APPROPRIATE ACTION. IT IS ACTS WHICH SAYS, "TWO DOLLARS PLEASE
(PAUSE) PLEASE DEPOSIT TWO DOLLARS FOR THE NEXT TEN SECONDS" (AND OTHER
VARIATIONS). ALSO, IF YOU TALK FOR MORE THAN THREE MINUTES AND THEN HANG-UP,
ACTS WILL CALL BACK AND DEMAND YOUR MONEY. ACTS IS ALSO RESPONSIBLE FOR
AUTOMATED CALLING CARD SERVICE. ACTS ALSO PROVIDE TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS FOR
CRAFTSPEOPLE (REPAIRMEN SPECIALIZING IN FORTRESSES). FOR EXAMPLE, THERE IS A
COIN TEST WHICH IS GREAT FOR TUNING UP RED BOXES. IN MANY AREAS THIS TEST CAN
BE ACTIVATED BY DIALING 09591230 AT A FORTRESS (THANKS TO KARL MARX FOR THIS
INFORMATION). ONCE ACTIVATED IT WILL REQUEST THAT YOU DEPOSIT VARIOUS COINS.
IT WILL THEN IDENTIFY THE COIN AND OUTPULSE THE APPROPRIATE RED BOX
SIGNAL. THE COINS ARE USUALLY RETURNED WHEN YOU HANG UP.
TO MAKE SURE THAT THERE IS ACTUALLY MONEY IN THE FONE, THE CO INITIATES A
"GROUND TEST" AT VARIOUS TIMES TO DETERMINE IF A COIN IS ACTUALLY IN THE
FONE. THIS IS WHY YOU MUST DEPOSIT AT LEAST A NICKEL IN ORDER TO USE A RED
BOX!
GREEN BOXES:
------------
PAYING THE INITIAL RATE IN ORDER TO USE A RED BOX (ON CERTAIN FORTRESSES)
LEFT A SOUR TASTE IN MANY RED BOXER'S MOUTHS THUS THE GREEN BOX WAS INVENTED.
THE GREEN BOX GENERATES USEFUL TONES SUCH AS COIN COLLECT, COIN RETURN, AND
RINGBACK. THESE ARE THE TONES THAT ACTS OR THE TSPS OPERATOR WOULD SEND TO
THE CO WHEN APPROPRIATE. UNFORTUNATELY, THE GREEN BOX CANNOT BE USED AT A
FORTRESS STATION BUT IT MUST BE USED BY THE CALLED PARTY.
HERE ARE THE TONES:
COIN COLLECT 700 + 1100 HZ
COIN RETURN 1100 + 1700 HZ
RINGBACK 700 + 1700 HZ
BEFORE THE CALLED PARTY SENDS ANY OF THESE TONES, AN OPERATOR RELEASED
SIGNAL SHOULD BE SENT TO ALERT THE MF DETECTORS AT THE CO. THIS CAN BE
ACCOMPLISHED BY SENDING 900 + 1500 HZ OR A SINGLE 2600 HZ WINK (90 MS)
FOLLOWED BY A 60 MS GAP AND THEN THE APPROPRIATE SIGNAL FOR AT LEAST 900 MS.
ALSO, DO NOT FORGET THAT THE INITIAL RATE IS COLLECTED SHORTLY BEFORE THE 3
MINUTE PERIOD IS UP. INCIDENTALLY, ONCE THE ABOVE MF TONES
FOR COLLECTING AND RETURNING COINS REACH THE CO, THEY ARE CONVERTED INTO
AN APPROPRIATE DC PULSE (-130 VOLTS FOR RETURN & +130 VOLTS FOR COLLECT). THIS
PULSE IS THEN SENT DOWN THE TIP TO THE FORTRESS. THIS CAUSES THE COIN RELAY
TO EITHER RETURN OR COLLECT THE COINS. THE ALLEGED "T-NETWORK" TAKES ADVANTAGE
OF THIS INFORMATION. WHEN A PULSE FOR COIN COLLECT (+130 VDC) IS SENT DOWN
THE LINE, IT MUST BE GROUNDED SOMEWHERE. THIS IS USUALLY EITHER THE
YELLOW OR BLACK WIRE. THUS, IF THE WIRES ARE EXPOSED, THESE WIRES CAN BE
CUT TO PREVENT THE PULSE FROM BEING GROUNDED. WHEN THE THREE MINUTE
INITIAL PERIOD IS ALMOST UP, MAKE SURE THAT THE BLACK & YELLOW WIRES ARE
SEVERED; THEN HANG UP, WAIT ABOUT 15 SECONDS IN CASE OF A SECOND PULSE,
RECONNECT THE WIRES, PICK UP THE FONE, HANG UP AGAIN, AND IF ALL GOES WELL IT
SHOULD BE "JACKPOT" TIME.
PHYSICAL ATTACK:
----------------
A TYPICAL FORTRESS WEIGHS ROUGHLY 50 LBS. WITH AN EMPTY COIN BOX. MOST OF
THIS IS ACCOUNTED FOR IN THE ARMOR PLATING. WHY ALL THE SECURITY? WELL,
BELL CONTRIBUTES IT TO THE FOLLOWING: "SOCIAL CHANGES DURING THE 1960'S
MADE THE MULTISLOT COIN STATION A PRIME TARGET FOR: VANDALISM, STRONG ARM
ROBBERY, FRAUD, AND THEFT OF SERVICE. THIS BROUGHT ABOUT THE INTRODUCTION OF
THE MORE RUGGED SINGLE SLOT COIN STATION AND A NEW ENVIRONMENT FOR COIN
SERVICE." AS FOR PICKING THE LOCK, I WILL QUOTE MR. PHELPS:
"WE OFTEN FANTASIZE ABOUT 'PICKING THE LOCK' OR 'GETTING A MASTER
KEY.' WELL, YOU CAN FORGET ABOUT IT. I DON'T LIKE TO DISCOURAGE PEOPLE, BUT
IT WILL SAVE YOU FROM WASTING ALOT OF OUR TIME--TIME WHICH CAN BE PUT TO
BETTER USE (HEH, HEH)." AS FOR PHYSICAL ATTACK, THE COIN PLATE
IS SECURED ON ALL FOUR SIDE BY HARDENED STEEL BOLTS WHICH PASS THROUGH TWO
SLOTS EACH. THESE BOLTS ARE IN TURN INTERLOCKED BY THE MAIN LOCK.
ONE PHREAK I KNOW DID MANAGE TO TAKE ONE OF THE 'MOTHERS' HOME (WHICH WAS
ATTACHED TO A PIECE OF PLYWOOD AT A CONSTRUCTION SITE; OTHERWISE, THE
PERMANENT ONES ARE A BITCH TO DETACH FROM THE WALL!). IT TOOK HIM ALMOST
TEN HOURS TO OPEN THE COIN BOX USING A POWER DRILL, SLEDGE HAMMERS, AND CROW
BARS (WHICH WAS EMPTY -- PERHAPS NEXT TIME, HE WILL DEPOSIT A COIN FIRST TO
HEAR IF IT SLUSHES DOWN NICELY OR HITS THE EMPTY BOTTOM WITH A CLUNK.)
TAKING THE FONE OFFERS A HIGHER MARGIN OF SUCCESS. ALTHOUGH THIS MAY BE
DIFFICULT OFTEN REQUIRING BRUTE FORCE AND THERE HAS BEEN SEVERAL CASES OF
BACK AXLES BEING LOST TRYING TO TAKE DOWN A FONE! A QUICK AND DIRTY WAY TO
OPEN THE COIN BOX IS BY USING A SHOTGUN. IN DETROIT, AFTER ECOLOGISTS
CLEANED OUT A MUNICIPAL POND, THEY FOUND 168 COIN PHONE RIFLED.
IN COLDER AREAS, SUCH AS CANADA, SOME SHREWD PEOPLE TAPE UP THE FONES USING
DUCT TAPE, POUR IN WATER, AND COME BACK THE NEXT DAY WHEN THE WATER WILL HAVE
FROZE THUS EXPANDING AND CRACKING THE FONE OPEN.
IN ONE CASE, "UNAUTHORIZED COIN COLLECTORS" WHERE CAUGHT WHEN THEY
BROUGHT $6,000 IN CHANGE TO A BANK AND THE BANK BECAME SUSPICIOUS...
AT ANY RATE, THE MAIN LOCK IS AN EIGHT LEVEL TUMBLER LOCATED ON THE RIGHT SIDE
OF THE COIN BOX. THIS LOCK HAS 390,625 POSSIBLE POSITIONS (5 ^ 8, SINCE THERE
ARE 8 TUMBLERS EACH WITH 5 POSSIBLE POSITIONS) THUS IT IS HIGHLY PICK
RESISTANT! THE LOCK IS HELD IN PLACE BY 4 SCREWS. IF THERE IS SUFFICIENT
CLEARANCE TO THE RIGHT OF THE FONE, IT IS CONCEIVABLE TO PUNCH OUT THE SCREWS
USING THE DRILLING PATTERN BELOW (PROVIDED BY ALEXANDER MUNDY IN TAP #32):
====================================
!! ^
!! !
! 1- 3/16 " !! !
!<--- --->!! 1-1/2"
-------------------- !
! ! !! ! !
! (+) (+)-! -----------
---! !! ! ^
! ! !! ! !
! ! (Z) !! ! !
! ! !! ! 2-3/16"
---! !! ! !
! (+) (+) ! !
! !! ! !
-------------------- -----------
!!
!!
(Z) KEYHOLE (+) SCREWS
!!
===================================
AFTER THIS IS ACCOMPLISHED, THE LOCK CAN BE PUSHED BACKWARDS DISENGAGING
THE LOCK FROM THE COVER PLATE. THE FOUR BOLTS OF THE COVER PLATE CAN THEN
BE RETRACTED BY TURNING THE BOLTWORKS WITH A SIMPLE KEY IN THE SHAPE OF THE
HOLE ON THE COIN PLATE (SEE DIAGRAM BELOW). OF COURSE, THERE ARE OTHER
METHODS AND DRILLING PATTERNS.
:-------------------------------------:
_
! !
( )
!_!
[ROUGHLY]
DIAGRAM OF COVER PLATE KEYHOLE
:-------------------------------------:
THE TOP COVER USES A SIMILAR (BUT NOT AS STRONG) LOCKING METHOD WITH THE
KEYHOLE DEPICTED ABOVE ON THE TOP LEFT HIDE AND A REGULAR LOCK (PROBABLY
TUMBLER ALSO) ON THE TOP RIGHT-HAND SIDE. IT IS INTERESTING TO EXPERIMENT
WITH THE COIN SHUTE AND THE FORTRESSES OWN "RED BOX" (WHICH BELL DIDN'T HAVE
THE 'BALLS' TO COLOR RED).
MISCELLANEOUS:
--------------
IN A FEW AREAS (RURAL & CANADA), POST-PAY SERVICE EXISTS. WITH THIS TYPE OF
SERVICE, THE MOUTHPIECE IS CUT OFF UNTIL THE CALLER DEPOSITS MONEY WHEN
THE CALLED PARTY ANSWERS. THIS ALSO ALLOWS FOR FREE CALLS TO WEATHER AND
OTHER DIAL-IT SERVICES! RECENTLY, 2600 MAGAZINE ANNOUNCED THE CLEAR BOX WHICH
CONSISTS OF A TELEPHONE PICKUP COIL AND A SMALL AMP. IT IS BASED ON THE¢
RINCIPAL THAT THE RECEIVER IS ALSO A WEAK TRANSMITTER AND THAT BY AMPLIFYING
YOUR SIGNAL YOU CAN TALK VIA THE TRANSMITTER THUS AVOIDING COSTLY
TELEPHONE CHARGES! MOST FORTRESSES ARE FOUND IN THE 9XXX
AREA. UNDER FORMER BELL AREAS, THEY USUALLY START AT 98XX (RIGHT BELOW THE
99XX OFFICIAL SERIES) AND MOVE DOWNWARD.
SINCE THE LINE, NOT THE FONE, DETERMINES WHETHER OR NOT A DEPOSIT
MUST BE MADE, DTF & CHARGE-A-CALL FONES MAKE GREAT EXTENSIONS!
FINALLY, FORTRESS FONES ALLOW FOR A NEW HOBBY--INSTRUCTION PLATE COLLECTING.
ALL THAT IS REQUIRED IS A FLAT-HEAD SCREWDRIVER AND A PAIR OF NEEDLE-NOSE
PLIERS. SIMPLY USE THE SCREWDRIVER TO LIFT UNDERNEATH THE PLATE SO THAT YOU
CAN GRAB IT WITH THE PLIERS AND YANK DOWNWARDS. I WOULD SUGGEST COVERING THE
TIPS OF THE PLIERS WITH ELECTRICAL TAPE TO PREVENT SCRATCHING. TEN CENT PLATES
ARE DEFINITELY BECOMING A "RARITY!"
FORTRESS SECURITY:
------------------
WHILE A LONELY FORTRESS MAY SEEM THE PERFECT TARGET, BEWARE! THE GESTAPO
HAS BEEN KNOWN TO STAKE OUT FORTRESSES FOR AS LONG AS 6 YEARS ACCORDING TO THE
GRASS ROOTS QUARTERLY. TO AVOID ANY PROBLEMS, DO NOT USE THE SAME FONES
REPEATEDLY FOR BOXING, CALLING CARDS, & OTHER EXPERIMENTS. THE TELCO KNOWS HOW
MUCH MONEY SHOULD BE IN THE COIN BOX AND WHEN ITS NOT THERE THEY TEND TO GET
PERTURBED (READ: PISSED OFF).
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
--------Jolly Roger
p.s. This was originally written back in my old Apple ][ days,
hence the upper case. I just did not think I should waste the
little time I have to work on this shit converting it to lower-
case. Hell, I thought 80-columns was pretty nice of me.. heh heh.
Well, enjoy this and the rest of this Cookbook! ---------JR
Black Box Plans by The Jolly Roger
Introduction:
------------
At any given time, the voltage running through your phone is about 20
Volts. When someone calls you, this voltage goes up to 48 Volts and rings
the bell. When you answer, the voltage goes down to about 10 Volts.
The phone company pays attention to this. When the voltage drops to 10,
they start billing the person who called you.
Function:
--------
The Black Box keeps the voltage going through your phone at 36 Volts,
so that it never reaches 10 Volts. The phone company is thus fooled
into thinking you never answered the phone and does not bill the caller.
However, after about a half hour the phone company will get suspicious
and disconnect your line for about 10 seconds.
Materials:
---------
1 1.8K 1/2 Watt Resistor
1 1.5V LED
1 SPST Switch
Procedure:
---------
(1) Open your phone by loosening the two screws on the bottom and
lifting the case off.
(2) There should be three wires: Red, Green, and Yellow. We'll be working
with the Red Wire.
(3) Connect the following in parallel:
A. The Resistor and LED.
B. The SPST Switch.
In other words, you should end up with this:
(Red Wire)
!---/\/\/\--O--!
(Line)-----! !-----(Phone)
!-----_/_------!
/\/\/\ = Resistor
O = LED
_/_ = SPST
Use:
---
The SPST Switch is the On/Off Switch of the Black Box. When the box is off,
your phone behaves normally. When the box is on and your phone rings,
the LED flashes. When you answer, the LED stays on and the voltage
is kept at 36V, so the calling party doesn't get charged. When the box
is on, you will not get a dial tone and thus cannot make calls.
Also remember that calls are limited to half an hour.
------------Jolly Roger
p.s. Due to new Fone Company switching systems & the like, this
may or may not work in your area. If you live in bumfuck Kentucky,
then try this out. I make no guarantees! (I never do...) ----JR
The Infamous Blotto Box!! by The Jolly Roger
(I bet that NOONE has the balls to build this one!)
Finally, it is here! What was first conceived as a joke to fool the innocent
phreakers around America has finally been conceived!
Well, for you people who are unenlightened about the Blotto Box,
here is a brief summery of a legend.
--*-=> The Blotto Box <=-*--
For years now every pirate has dreamed of the Blotto Box. It was at first
made as a joke to mock more ignorant people into thinking that
the function of it actually was possible. Well, if you are The Voltage
Master, it is possible. Originally conceived by King Blotto of much fame,
the Blotto Box is finally available to the public.
NOTE: Jolly Roger can not be responsible for the information disclosed
in the file! This file is strictly for informational purposes and
should not be actually built and used! Usage of this electronical impulse
machine could have the severe results listed below and could result in
high federal prosecution! Again, I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY!
All right, now that that is cleared up, here is the basis of the box
and it's function.
The Blotto Box is every phreaks dream... you could hold AT&T down on its
knee's with this device. Because, quite simply, it can turn off the phone
lines everywhere. Nothing. Blotto. No calls will be allowed out of an area
code, and no calls will be allowed in. No calls can be made inside it for
that matter. As long as the switching system stays the same, this box will
not stop at a mere area code. It will stop at nothing. The electrical
impulses that emit from this box will open every line. Every line will
ring and ring and ring... the voltage will never be cut off until the
box/generator is stopped. This is no 200 volt job, here.
We are talking GENERATOR. Every phone line will continue to ring, and people
close to the box may be electricuted if they pick up the phone.
But, the Blotto Box can be stopped by merely cutting of the line or generator.
If they are cut off then nothing will emit any longer. It will take
a while for the box to calm back down again, but that is merely a
superficial aftereffect. Once again: Construction and use of this box is
not advised! The Blotto Box will continue as long as there is
electricity to continue with.
OK, that is what it does, now, here are some interesting things for you
to do with it...
-*-=>Blotto Functions/Installin'<=-*-
Once you have installed your Blotto, there is no turning back. The
following are the instructions for construction and use of this box.
Please read and heed all warnings in the above section before you attempt
to construct this box.
Materials:
- A Honda portable generator or a main power outlet like in a
stadium or some such place.
- 400 volt rated coupler that splices a female plug into a
phone line jack.
- A meter of voltage to attach to the box itself.
- A green base (i.e. one of the nice boxes about 3' by 4' that
you see around in your neighborhood. They are the main switch
boards and would be a more effective line to start with.
or: A regular phone jack (not your own, and not in your area
code!
- A soldering iron and much solder.
- A remote control or long wooden pole.
Now. You must have guessed the construction from that. If not, here goes,
I will explain in detail. Take the Honda Portable Generator and all of
the other listed equiptment and go out and hunt for a green base. Make
sure it is one on the ground or hanging at head level from a pole,
not the huge ones at the top of telephone poles. Open it up with anything
convienent, if you are two feeble that fuck don't try this.
Take a look inside... you are hunting for color-coordinating lines of
green and red. Now, take out your radio shack cord and rip the meter thing
off. Replace it with the voltage meter about. A good level to set the
voltage to is about 1000 volts. Now, attach the voltage meter to the cord
and set the limit for one thousand. Plug the other end of the cord
into the generator. Take the phone jack and splice the jack part off.
Open it up and match the red and green wires with
the other red and green wires. NOTE: If you just had the generator on
and have done this in the correct order, you will be a crispy critter.
Keep the generator off until you plan to start it up. Now, solder those
lines together carefully. Wrap duck tape or insultation tape around all
of the wires. Now, place the remote control right on to the startup
of the generator. If you have the long pole, make sure it is very long
and stand back as far away as you can get and reach the pole over.
NOTICE: If you are going right along with this without reading the file
first, you still realize now that your area code is about to become
null! Then, getting back, twitch the pole/remote control and run for your
damn life. Anywhere, just get away from it. It will be generating
so much electricity that if you stand to close you will kill yourself.
The generator will smoke, etc. but will not stop. You are now killing your
area code, because all of that energy is spreading through all of the
phone lines around you in every direction.
Have a nice day!
--*-=>The Blotto Box: Aftermath<=-*--
Well, that is the plans for the most devastating and ultimately deadly
box ever created. My hat goes off to: King Blotto (for the original idea).
---------Jolly Roger
Blowgun by The Jolly Roger
In this article I shall attempt to explain the use and manufacture
of a powerfull blow-gun and making darts for the gun.The possesion of
the blow gun described in this article IS a felony.
So be carefull where you use it. I don't want to get you all busted.
Needed:
1. Several strands of yarn (About 2 inches a-piece)
2. A regular pencil
3. A 2 1/4 inch long needle (hopefully with a beaded head. If not
obtainable,wrap tape around end of needle.
4. 2-3 1/4 foot pipe. (PVC or Aluminum) Half a inch in diameter
Constructing the dart:
1st- Carefully twist and pull the metal part (Along with eraser)
of the pencil till it comes off.
2nd- Take Pin and start putting about 5-7 Strands of yarn on the pin. Then
push them up to the top of the pin. But not over the head of the pin (orthe tape).
3rd- Push pin through the hollow part of the head where the pencil was before.
4th- That should for a nice looking dart. (see illustration)
#####
>>>>>-----/ # is the yarn
> is the head of the pencil
- is the pin it-self
/ is the head of the pin
Using the Darts:
1st- Now take the finished dart and insert it in the tube
(if it is too small put on more yarn.)
2nd- Aim the tube at a door, wall, sister, ect.
3rd- blow on the end of the pipe.
4th- Sometimes the end of the pipe may be sharp. When this happens I
suggest you wrap it with some black electrician tape.It should feel
a lot better.
-------Jolly Roger
Brown Box Plans by The Jolly Roger
This is a fairly simple mod that can be made to any phone. All it does
is allow you to take any two lines in your house and create a party
line. So far I have not heard of anyone who has any problems
with it. There is one thing that you will notice when you are
one of the two people who is called by a person with a brown box. The other
person will sound a little bit faint. I could overcome this with some
amplifiers but then there wouldn't be very many of these made [Why not?].
I think the convenience of having two people on the line at once will
make up for any minor volume loss.
Here is the diagram:
---------------------------------------
KEY:___________________________________
| PART | SYMBOL |
|---------------------------------|
| BLACK WIRE | * |
| YELLOW WIRE | = |
| RED WIRE | + |
| GREEN WIRE | - |
| SPDT SWITCH | _/_ |
| _/_ |
| VERTICAL WIRE | | |
| HORIZONTAL WIRE | _ |
-----------------------------------
* = - +
* = - +
* = - +
* = - +
* = - +
* ==_/_- +
*******_/_++++++
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
|_____PHONE____|
------------Jolly Roger
Calcium Carbide Bomb by The Jolly Roger
This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... Obtain some
calcium carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide lamps and
can be found at nearly any hardware store. Take a few pieces of this
stuff (it looks like gravel) and put it in a glass jar with some
water. Put a lid on tightly. The carbide will react with the water to
produce acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas used in
cutting torches. Eventually the glass with explode from internal
pressure. If you leave a burning rag nearby, you will get a nice
fireball!
-----------Jolly Roger
Calcium Carbide Bomb by The Jolly Roger
This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... Obtain some
calcium carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide lamps and
can be found at nearly any hardware store. Take a few pieces of this
stuff (it looks like gravel) and put it in a glass jar with some
water. Put a lid on tightly. The carbide will react with the water to
produce acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas used in
cutting torches. Eventually the glass with explode from internal
pressure. If you leave a burning rag nearby, you will get a nice
fireball!
-----------Jolly Roger
More Ways to Send a Car to Hell by The Jolly Roger
Due to a lot of compliments, I have written an update to file #14.
I have left the original intact. This expands upon the original
idea, and could be well called a sequal. -----JR
How to have phun with someone else's car. If you really detest
someone, and I mean detest, here's a few tips on what to do in your
spare time. Move the windshield wiper blades, and insert and glue
tacks. The tacks make lovely designs. If your "friend" goes to
school with you, Just before he comes out of school. Light a lighter
and then put it directly underneath his car door handle.
Wait...Leave...Listen. When you hear a loud "shit!", you know he
made it to his car in time. Remove his muffler and pour approximately
1 Cup of gas in it. Put the muffler back, then wait till their car starts.
Then you have a cigarette lighter. A 30 foot long cigarette lighter.
This one is effective, and any fool can do it. Remove the top
air filter. That's it! Or a oldie but goodie: sugar in the gas tank.
Stuff rags soaked in gas up the exhaust pipe. Then you wonder why
your "friend" has trouble with his/her lungs. Here's one that takes
time and many friends. Take his/her car then break into their house
and reassemble it, in their living or bedroom. Phun eh? If you're
into engines, say eeni mine moe and point to something and remove it.
They wonder why something doesn't work. There are so many others, but
the real good juicy ones come by thinking hard.
-----------Jolly Roger
More Ways to Send a Car to Hell by The Jolly Roger
Due to a lot of compliments, I have written an update to file #14.
I have left the original intact. This expands upon the original
idea, and could be well called a sequal. -----JR
How to have phun with someone else's car. If you really detest
someone, and I mean detest, here's a few tips on what to do in your
spare time. Move the windshield wiper blades, and insert and glue
tacks. The tacks make lovely designs. If your "friend" goes to
school with you, Just before he comes out of school. Light a lighter
and then put it directly underneath his car door handle.
Wait...Leave...Listen. When you hear a loud "shit!", you know he
made it to his car in time. Remove his muffler and pour approximately
1 Cup of gas in it. Put the muffler back, then wait till their car starts.
Then you have a cigarette lighter. A 30 foot long cigarette lighter.
This one is effective, and any fool can do it. Remove the top
air filter. That's it! Or a oldie but goodie: sugar in the gas tank.
Stuff rags soaked in gas up the exhaust pipe. Then you wonder why
your "friend" has trouble with his/her lungs. Here's one that takes
time and many friends. Take his/her car then break into their house
and reassemble it, in their living or bedroom. Phun eh? If you're
into engines, say eeni mine moe and point to something and remove it.
They wonder why something doesn't work. There are so many others, but
the real good juicy ones come by thinking hard.
-----------Jolly Roger
Ripping off Change Machines by the Jolly Roger
Have you ever seen one of those really big changer machines in airports
laundrymats or arcades that dispense change when you put in your 1 or 5
dollar bill? Well then, here is an article for you.
1) Find the type of change machine that you slide in your bill length
wise, not the type where you put the bill in a tray and then slide the
tray in!!!
2) After finding the right machine, get a $1 or $5 bill. Start crumpling
up into a ball. Then smooth out the bill, now it should have a very wrinkly
surface.
3) Now the hard part. You must tear a notch in the bill on the
left side about 1/2 inch below the little 1 dollar symbol (See Figure).
4) If you have done all of this right then take the bill and go out the
machine. Put the bill in the machine and wait. What should happen is:
when you put your bill in the machine it thinks everything is fine.
When it gets to the part of the bill with the notch cut out, the
machine will reject the bill and (if you have done it right)
give you the change at the same time!!! So, you end up getting your bill
back, plus the change!! It might take a little practice, but once
you get the hang of it, you can get a lot of money!
!--------------------------------!
! !
! (1) /-------\ (1) !
! ! ! !
! ! Pic. ! !
! (1) /\ \-------/ (1) !
! !! !
!-----/ \-----------------------!
\-------Make notch here. About 1/2 " down from (1)
P.S. Sorry for the "text work" but you should be able to get the
idea. Have fun!!! -----------------------Jolly Roger
Clear Box Plans by The Jolly Roger
The clear box is a new device which has just been invented that can be
used throughout Canada and rural United States. The clear box works on
"PostPay" payphones (fortress fones). Those are the payphones
that don't require payment until after the connection is established.
You pick up the fone, get a dial tone, dial your number, and then
insert your money after the person answers.
If you don't deposit the money then you can not speak to the person on
the other end because your mouth piece is cut off but not the ear-piece.
(obviously these phones are nice for free calls to weather or time or
other such recordings). All you must do is to go to your nearby Radio
Shack, or electronics store, and get a four-transistor amplifier and a
telephone suction cup induction pick-up. The induction pick-up would be
hooked up as it normally would to record a conversation, except
that it would be plugged into the output of the amplifier and a
microphone would be hooked to the input. So when the party
that is being called answers, the caller could speak through the little
microphone instead. His voice then goes through the amplifier and out
the induction coil, and into the back of the receiver where
it would then be broadcast through the phone lines and the other
partywould be able to hear the caller. The Clear Box thus
'clears up' the problem of not being heard. Luckily, the line will
not be cut-off after a certain amount of time because it will wait
forever for the coins to be put in.
The biggest advantage for all of us about this new clear box is the
fact that this type of payphone will most likely become very common.
Due to a few things: 1st, it is a cheap way of getting the DTF,
dial-tone-first service, 2nd, it doesn't require any special equipment,
(for the phone company) This payphone will work on any phone line.
Usually a payphone line is different, but this is a regular phone line
and it is set up so the phone does all the charging, not the company.
------------Jolly Roger
CNA List Courtesy of The Jolly Roger
NPA TEL NO NPA TEL NO
--------------------------------------
201 201-676-7070 601 601-961-8139
202 304-343-7016 602 303-293-8777
203 203-789-6815 603 617-787-5300
204 204-949-0900 604 604-432-2996
205 205-988-7000 605 402-580-2255
206 206-382-5124 606 502-583-2861
207 617-787-5300 607 518-471-8111
208 303-293-8777 608 608-252-6932
209 415-543-2861 609 201-676-7070
212 518-471-8111 612 402-580-2255
213 415-781-5271 613 416-443-0542
214 214-464-7400 614 614-464-0123
215 412-633-5600 615 615-373-5791
216 614-464-0123 616 313-223-8690
217 217-525-5800 617 617-787-5300
218 402-580-2255 618 217-525-5800
219 317-265-4834 619 818-501-7251
301 304-343-1401 701 402-580-2255
302 412-633-5600 702 415-543-2861
303 303-293-8777 703 304-344-7935
304 304-344-8041 704 912-784-0440
305 912-784-0440 705 416-979-3469
306 306-347-2878 706 *** NONE ***
307 303-293-8777 707 415-543-6374
308 402-580-2255 709 *** NONE ***
309 217-525-5800 712 402-580-2255
312 312-796-9600 713 713-861-7194
313 313-223-8690 714 818-501-7251
314 314-721-6626 715 608-252-6932
315 518-471-8111 716 518-471-8111
316 816-275-2782 717 412-633-5600
317 317-265-4834 718 518-471-8111
318 504-245-5330 801 303-293-8777
319 402-580-2255 802 617-787-5300
401 617-787-5300 803 912-784-0440
402 402-580-2255 804 304-344-7935
403 403-425-2652 805 415-543-2861
404 912-784-0440 806 512-828-2501
405 405-236-6121 807 416-443-0542
406 303-293-8777 808 212-334-4336
408 415-543-6374 809 212-334-4336
409 713-861-7194 812 317-265-4834
412 413-633-5600 813 813-228-7871
413 617-787-5300 814 412-633-5600
414 608-252-6932 815 217-525-5800
415 415-543-6374 816 816-275-2782
416 416-443-0542 817 214-464-7400
417 314-721-6626 818 415-781-5271
418 514-725-2491 819 514-725-2491
419 614-464-0123 901 615-373-5791
501 405-236-6121 902 902-421-4110
502 502-583-2861 904 912-784-0440
503 206-382-5124 906 313-223-8690
504 504-245-5330 907 *** NONE ***
505 303-293-8777 912 912-784-0440
506 506-648-3041 913 816-275-2782
507 402-580-2255 914 518-471-8111
509 206-382-5124 915 512-828-2501
512 512-828-2501 916 415-543-2861
513 614-464-0123 918 405-236-6121
514 514-725-2491 919 912-784-0440
515 402-580-2255 516 518-471-8111
517 313-223-8690 518 518-471-8111
519 416-443-0542 900 201-676-7070
Electronic Terrorism by The Jolly Roger
It starts when a big, dumb lummox rudely insults you. Being of a
rational, intelligent disposition, you wisely choose to avoid a
(direct) confrontation. But as he laughs in your face, you smile
inwardly---your revenge is already planned.
Step 1: follow your victim to his locker, car, or house. Once you
have chosen your target site, lay low for a week or more,
letting your anger boil.
Step 2: in the mean time, assemble your versatile terrorist
kit(details below.)
Step 3: plant your kit at the designated target site on a monday
morning between the hours of 4:00 am and 6:00 am. Include a
calm, suggestive note that quietly hints at the possibility
of another attack. Do not write it by hand! An example of
an effective note:
"don't be such a jerk, or the next one will take off your
hand. Have a nice day."
Notice how the calm tone instills fear. As if written by a
homicidal psychopath.
Step 5: choose a strategic location overlooking the target site. Try
to position yourself in such a way that you can see his facial contortions.
Step 6: sit back and enjoy the fireworks! Assembly of the versatile,
economic, and effective terrorist kit #1: the parts you'll need are:
1) 4 aa batteries
2) 1 9-volt battery
3) 1 spdt mini relay (radio shack)
4) 1 rocket engine(smoke bomb or m-80)
5) 1 solar ignitor (any hobby store)
6) 1 9-volt battery connector
Step 1: take the 9-volt battery and wire it through the relay's coil.
This circuit should also include a pair of contacts that when
separated cut off this circuit. These contacts should be held together
by trapping them between the locker,mailbox, or car door.
Once the door is opened, the contacts fall apart and the 9-volt circuit
is broken, allowing the relay to fall to the closed postion
thus closing the ignition circuit. (If all this is confusing take a
look at the schematic below.)
Step 2: take the 4 aa batteries and wire them in succession.
Wire the positive terminal of one to the negative terminal of another,
until all four are connected except one positive terminal and one negative
terminal. Even though the four aa batteries only combine to create 6
volts, the increase in amperage is necessary to activate the solar
ignitor quickly and effectively.
Step 3: take the battery pack (made in step 2) and wire one end of it
to the relay's single pole and the other end to one prong of the solar
ignitor. Then wire the other prong of the solar ignitor back to the open
position on the relay.
Step 4: using double sided carpet tape mount the kit in his locker,
mailbox, or car door. And last, insert the solar ignitor into the
rocket engine (smoke bomb or m-80).
Your kit is now complete!
---------><---------
I (CONTACTS) I
I I
I - (BATTERY)
I ---
I I
I (COIL) I
------///////-------
/-----------
/ I
/ I
/ I
(SWITCH) I I
I I
I --- (BATTERY)
I - ( PACK )
I ---
I I
I I
---- -----
I I
*
(SOLAR IGNITOR)
---------Jolly Roger
Electronic Terrorism by The Jolly Roger
It starts when a big, dumb lummox rudely insults you. Being of a
rational, intelligent disposition, you wisely choose to avoid a
(direct) confrontation. But as he laughs in your face, you smile
inwardly---your revenge is already planned.
Step 1: follow your victim to his locker, car, or house. Once you
have chosen your target site, lay low for a week or more,
letting your anger boil.
Step 2: in the mean time, assemble your versatile terrorist
kit(details below.)
Step 3: plant your kit at the designated target site on a monday
morning between the hours of 4:00 am and 6:00 am. Include a
calm, suggestive note that quietly hints at the possibility
of another attack. Do not write it by hand! An example of
an effective note:
"don't be such a jerk, or the next one will take off your
hand. Have a nice day."
Notice how the calm tone instills fear. As if written by a
homicidal psychopath.
Step 5: choose a strategic location overlooking the target site. Try
to position yourself in such a way that you can see his facial contortions.
Step 6: sit back and enjoy the fireworks! Assembly of the versatile,
economic, and effective terrorist kit #1: the parts you'll need are:
1) 4 aa batteries
2) 1 9-volt battery
3) 1 spdt mini relay (radio shack)
4) 1 rocket engine(smoke bomb or m-80)
5) 1 solar ignitor (any hobby store)
6) 1 9-volt battery connector
Step 1: take the 9-volt battery and wire it through the relay's coil.
This circuit should also include a pair of contacts that when
separated cut off this circuit. These contacts should be held together
by trapping them between the locker,mailbox, or car door.
Once the door is opened, the contacts fall apart and the 9-volt circuit
is broken, allowing the relay to fall to the closed postion
thus closing the ignition circuit. (If all this is confusing take a
look at the schematic below.)
Step 2: take the 4 aa batteries and wire them in succession.
Wire the positive terminal of one to the negative terminal of another,
until all four are connected except one positive terminal and one negative
terminal. Even though the four aa batteries only combine to create 6
volts, the increase in amperage is necessary to activate the solar
ignitor quickly and effectively.
Step 3: take the battery pack (made in step 2) and wire one end of it
to the relay's single pole and the other end to one prong of the solar
ignitor. Then wire the other prong of the solar ignitor back to the open
position on the relay.
Step 4: using double sided carpet tape mount the kit in his locker,
mailbox, or car door. And last, insert the solar ignitor into the
rocket engine (smoke bomb or m-80).
Your kit is now complete!
---------><---------
I (CONTACTS) I
I I
I - (BATTERY)
I ---
I I
I (COIL) I
------///////-------
/-----------
/ I
/ I
/ I
(SWITCH) I I
I I
I --- (BATTERY)
I - ( PACK )
I ---
I I
I I
---- -----
I I
*
(SOLAR IGNITOR)
---------Jolly Roger
How to Start A Conference w/o 2600hz or M-F by The Jolly Roger
(Originally an Apple ][ file, forgive the upper case!)
THIS METHOD OF STARTING THE CONF. DEPENDS ON YOUR ABILITY TO BULLSHIT THE
OPERATOR INTO DIALING A NUMBER WHICH CAN ONLY BE REACHED WITH AN OPERATOR'S
M-F TONES. WHEN BULLSHITTING THE OPERATOR REMEMBER OPERATOR'S ARE NOT
HIRED TO THINK BUT TO DO.
HERE IS A STEP-BY-STEP WAY TO THE CONF.:
1. CALL THE OPERATOR THROUGH A PBX OR EXTENDER, YOU COULD JUST CALL ONE
THROUGH YOUR LINE BUT I WOULDN'T RECOMMEND IT.
2. SAY TO THE OPERATOR:
TSPS MAINTENENCE ENGINEER, RING-FORWARD TO 213+080+1100, POSITION RELEASE,
THANKYOU.
(SHE WILL PROBABLY ASK YOU FOR THE NUMBER AGAIN)
DEFINITIONS: RING-FORWARD - INSTRUCTS HER TO DIAL THE NUMBER.
POSITION RELEASE - INSTUCTS HER TO RELEASE THE TRUNK AFTER SHE HAS
DIALED THE NUMBER.
+ - REMBER TO SAY 213PLUS080 PLUS1100.
3. WHEN YOU ARE CONNECTED WITH THE CONF. YOU WILL HERE A WHISTLE BLOW
TWICE AND A RECORDING ASKING YOU FOR YOUR OPERATOR #. DIAL IN ANY FIVE
DIGITS AND HIT THE POUNDS SIGN A COUPLE OF TIMES. SIMPLY DIAL IN THE #
OF THE BILLING LINE ECT. WHEN THE RECORDING ASK FOR IT.
3. WHEN IN THE CONTROL MODE OF THE CONF. HIT '6' TO TRANSFER CONTROL.
HIT '001' TO REENTER THE # OF CONFEREE'S AND TIME AMOUNT WHICH YOU
GAVE WHEN YOU STARED THE CONF. REMEMBER THE SIZE CAN BE FROM
2-59 CONFEREE'S. I HAVE NOT FOUND OUT THE 'LENGTHS' LIMITS.
How to Make Dynamite by The Jolly Roger
Dynamite is nothing more than just nitroglycerin and a stablizing
agent to make it much safer to use. For the sake of saving time, I
will abbreviate nitroglycerin with a plain NG. The numbers
are percentages, be sure to mix these carefully and be sure to use the
exact amounts. These percentages are in weight ratio, not volume.
no. ingredients amount
---------------------------------------
#1 NG 32
sodium nitrate 28
woodmeal 10
ammonium oxalate 29
guncotten 1
#2 NG 24
potassium nitrate 9
sodium nitate 56
woodmeal 9
ammonium oxalate 2
#3 NG 35.5
potassium nitrate 44.5
woodmeal 6
guncotton 2.5
vaseline 5.5
powdered charcoal 6
#4 NG 25
potassium nitrate 26
woodmeal 34
barium nitrate 5
starch 10
#5 NG 57
potassium nitrate 19
woodmeal 9
ammonium oxalate 12
guncotton 3
#6 NG 18
sodium nitrate 70
woodmeal 5.5
potassium chloride 4.5
chalk 2
#7 NG 26
woodmeal 40
barium nitrate 32
sodium carbonate 2
#8 NG 44
woodmeal 12
anhydrous sodium sulfate 44
#9 NG 24
potassium nitrate 32.5
woodmeal 33.5
ammonium oxalate 10
#10 NG 26
potassium nitrate 33
woodmeal 41
#11 NG 15
sodium nitrate 62.9
woodmeal 21.2
sodium carbonate .9
#12 NG 35
sodium nitrate 27
woodmeal 10
ammonium oxalate 1
#13 NG 32
potassium nitrate 27
woodmeal 10
ammonium oxalate 30
guncotton 1
#14 NG 33
woodmeal 10.3
ammonium oxalate 29
guncotton .7
potassium perchloride 27
#15 NG 40
sodium nitrate 45
woodmeal 15
#16 NG 47
starch 50
guncotton 3
#17 NG 30
sodium nitrate 22.3
woodmeal 40.5
potassium chloride 7.2
#18 NG 50
sodium nitrate 32.6
woodmeal 17
ammonium oxalate .4
#19 NG 23
potassium nitrate 27.5
woodmeal 37
ammonium oxalate 8
barium nitrate 4
calcium carbonate .5
Household equivalants for chemicles
It has come to my attention that many of these chemicles are
sold under brand names, or have household equivalants. here is a list
that might help you out. Also, see elsewhere in this Cookbook for
a more complete listing............
acetic acid vinegar
aluminum oxide alumia
aluminum potassium sulfate alum
aluminum sulfate alum
ammonium hydroxide ammonia
carbon carbonate chalk
calcium hypochloride bleaching powder
calcium oxide lime
calcium sulfate plaster of paris
carbonic acid seltzer
carbon tetrachloride cleaning fluid
ethylene dichloride Dutch fluid
ferric oxide iron rust
glucose corn syrup
graphite pencil lead
hydrochloric acid muriatic acid
hydrogen peroxide peroxide
lead acetate sugar of lead
lead tetrooxide red lead
magnesium silicate talc
magnesium sulfate Epsom salts
naphthalene mothballs
phenol carbolic acid
potassium bicarbonate cream of tartar
potassium chromium sulf. chrome alum
potassium nitrate saltpeter
sodium dioxide sand
sodium bicarbonate baking soda
sodium borate borax
sodium carbonate washing soda
sodium chloride salt
sodium hydroxide lye
sodium silicate water glass
sodium sulfate glauber's salt
sodium thiosulfate photographer's hypo
sulferic acid battery acid
sucrose cane sugar
zinc chloride tinner's fluid
Keep this list handy at all times. If you can't seem to get one
or more of the ingredients try another one. If you still can't, you
can always buy small amounts from your school, or maybe from various
chemical companies. When you do that, be sure to say as little as
possible, if during the school year, and they ask, say it's for a
experiment for school.
-------------Jolly Roger
Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower by The Jolly Roger
For this one, all you need is a car, a sparkplug, ignition wire and a
switch. Install the spark plug into the last four or five inches of
the tailpipeby drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily.
Attach the wire (this is regular insulated wire) to one side of the
switch and to the spark plug. The other side of the switch is attached
to the positive terminal on the battery. With the car running, simply
hit the switch and watch the flames fly!!! Again be careful that no
one is behind you! I have seen some of these flames go 20 feet!!!
-------------Jolly Roger
Breaking into BBS Express Courtesy of the Jolly Roger
If you have high enough access on any BBS Express BBS you can get the
Sysop's password without any problems and be able to log on as him and do
whatever you like. Download the Pass file, delete the whole BBS, anything.
Its all a matter of uploading a text file and d/ling it from the BBS. You
must have high enough access to see new uploads to do this. If you can see
a file you just uploaded you have the ability to break into the BBS in a
few easy steps.
Why am I telling everyone this when I run BBS Express myself?
Well there is one way to stop this from happening and I want other Sysops
to be aware of it and not have it happen to them.
Breaking in is all based on the MENU function of BBS Express. Express
will let you create a menu to display different text files by putting the
word MENU at the top of any text file and stating what files are to be
displayed. But due to a major screw up by Mr. Ledbetter you can use this
MENU option to display the USERLOG and the Sysop's Passwords or anything
else you like. I will show you how to get the Sysop's pass and therefore
log on as the Sysop. BBs Express Sysop's have 2 passwords. One like
everyone else gets in the form of X1XXX, and a Secondary password
to make it harder to hack out the Sysops pass.
The Secondary pass is found in a file called SYSDATA.DAT.
This file must be on drive 1 and is therefore easy to get. All you have to
do is upload this simple Text file:
MENU
1
D1:SYSDATA.DAT
Ripoff time!
after you upload this file you d/l it non-Xmodem. Stupid Express thinks
it is displaying a menu and you will see this:
Ripoff time!
Selection [0]:
Just hit 1 and Express will display the SYSDATA.DAT file.OPPASS is where
the Sysop's Secondary pass will be. D1:USERLOG.DAT is where you will find
the name and Drive number of the USERLOG.DAT file. The Sysop might have
renamed this file or put it in a Subdirectory or even on a different
drive. I Will Assume he left it as D1:USERLOG.DAT. The other parts of this
file tell you where the .HLP screens are and where the LOG is saved and
all the Download path names.
Now to get the Sysop's primary pass you upload a text file like this:
MENU
1
D1:USERLOG.DAT
Breaking into Bedwetter's BBS
Again you then d/l this file non-Xmodem and you will see:
Breaking into Bedwetter's BBS
Selection [0]:
You then hit 1 and the long USERLOG.DAT file comes flying at you.
The Sysop is the first entry in this very long file so it is easy. You will
see:
SYSOP'S NAME X1XXX
You should now have his 2 passwords.
There is only one easy way out of this that I can think of, and that is
to make all new uploads go to SYSOP level (Level 9) access only. This way
nobody can pull off what I just explained.
I feel this is a major Bug on Mr. Ledbetter's part. I just don't know why
no one had thought of it before. I would like to give credit to
Redline for the message he left on Modem Hell telling about this problem,
and also to Unka for his ideas and input about correcting it.
This has been brought to you from [_The_Piper_] and the S.O.D. BBS
Network!
Firebombs by the Jolly Roger
Most fire bombs are simply gasoline filled bottles with a fuel
soaked rag in the mouth (the bottle's mouth, not yours). The original
Molotov cocktail, and still about the best, was a mixture of one part
gasoline and one part motor oil. The oil helps it to cling to what it
splatters on.
Some use one part roofing tar and one part gasoline. Fire bombs
have been found which were made by pouring melted wax into gasoline.
-------------Jolly Roger
Fuse Ignition Bomb by The Jolly Roger
A four strand homemade fuse is used for this. It burns like fury.
It is held down and concealed by a strip of bent tin cut from a can.
The exposed end of the fuse is dipped into the flare igniter. To use
this one, you light the fuse and hold the fire bomb until the fuse has
burned out of sight under the tin. Then throw it and when it breaks,
the burning fuse will ignite the contents.
-------------Jolly Roger
Fuse Ignition Bomb by The Jolly Roger
A four strand homemade fuse is used for this. It burns like fury.
It is held down and concealed by a strip of bent tin cut from a can.
The exposed end of the fuse is dipped into the flare igniter. To use
this one, you light the fuse and hold the fire bomb until the fuse has
burned out of sight under the tin. Then throw it and when it breaks,
the burning fuse will ignite the contents.
-------------Jolly Roger
Generic Bomb by the Jolly Roger
1) Aquire a glass container
2) Put in a few drops of gasoline
3) Cap the top
4) Now turn the container around to coat the inner surfaces and then
evaporates
5) Add a few drops of potassium permanganate (<-Get this stuff from a
snake bite kit)
6) The bomb is detonated by throwing aganist a solid object.
*AFTER THROWING THIS THING RUN LIKE HELL THIS THING PACKS ABOUT 1/2
STICK OF DYNAMITE*
---------------Jolly Roger
Green Box Plans by the Jolly Roger
Paying the initial rate in order to use a red box (on certain
fortresses) left a sour taste in many red boxers mouths, thus the
green box was invented. The green box generates useful tones such as
COIN COLLECT, COIN RETURN, AND RINGBACK. These are the tones that
ACTS or the TSPS operator would send to the CO when appropriate.
Unfortunately, the green box cannot be used at the fortress station but
must be used by the CALLED party.
Here are the tones:
COIN COLLECT 700+1100hz
COIN RETURN 1100+1700hz
RINGBACK 700+1700hz
Before the called party sends any of these tones, an operator realease
signal should be sent to alert the MF detectors at the CO.
This can be done by sending 900hz + 1500hz or a single 2600 wink (90 ms.)
Also do not forget that the initial rate is collected shortly before the
3 minute period is up. Incidentally, once the above MF
tones for collecting and returning coins reach the CO, they are
converted into an appropriate DC pulse (-130 volts for return and
+130 for collect). This pulse is then sent down the tip to the
fortress. This causes the coin relay to either return or collect the coins.
The alledged "T-network" takes advantage of this information.
When a pulse for coin collect (+130 VDC) is sent down the line,
it must be grounded somewhere. This is usually the yellow or black wire.
Thus, if the wires are exposed, these wires can be cut to prevent
the pulse from being grounded. When the three minute initial
period is almost up, make sure that the black and yellow wires are
severed, then hang up, wait about 15 seconds in case of a second
pulse, reconnect the wires, pick up the phone, and if all goes well,
it should be "JACKPOT" time.
---------Jolly Roger
Portable Grenade Launcher by the Jolly Roger
If you have a bow, this one is for you. Remove the ferrule from an
aluminum arrow, and fill the arrow with black powder (I use grade
FFFF, it burns easy)and then glue a shotshell primer into the hole
left where the ferrule went. Next, glue a BB on the primer, and you
are ready to go! Make sure no one is nearby.... Little shreds of
aluminum go all over the place!!
------------Jolly Roger
Hacking Tutorial Courtesy of the Jolly Roger
What is hacking?
----------------
According to popular belief the term hacker and hacking was founded at mit
it comes from the root of a hack writer,someone who keeps "hacking" at
the typewriter until he finishes the story.a computer hacker would be
hacking at the keyboard or password works.
What you need:
--------------
To hack you need a computer equipped with a modem (a device that lets you
transmit data over phone lines) which should cost you from $100 to $1200.
How do you hack?
----------------
Hacking recuires two things:
1. The phone number
2. Answer to identity elements
How do you find the phone #?
----------------------------
There are three basic ways to find a computers phone number.
1. Scanning,
2. Directory
3. Inside info.
What is scanning?
-----------------
Scanning is the process of having a computer search for a carrier tone.
For example,the computer would start at (800) 111-1111 and wait for carrier
if there is none it will go on to 111-1112 etc.if there is a carrier it
will record it for future use and continue looking for more.
What is directory assictance?
-----------------------------
This way can only be used if you know where your target computer is. For this
example say it is in menlo park, CA and the company name is sri.
1. Dial 411 (or 415-555-1212)
2. Say "Menlo park"
3. Say "Sri"
4. Write down number
5. Ask if there are any more numbers
6. If so write them down.
7. Hang up on operator
8. Dial all numbers you were given
9. Listen fir carrier tone
10. If you hear carrier tone write down number, call it on your modem and your
set to hack!
---------------Jolly Roger
The Basics of Hacking II Courtesy of the Jolly Roger
Basics to know before doing anything, essential to your continuing
career as one of the elite in the country... This article, "the
introduction to the world of hacking" is meant to help you by telling you
how not to get caught, what not to do on a computer system, what type of
equipment should I know about now, and just a little on the history, past
present future, of the hacker.
Welcome to the world of hacking! We, the people who live outside of the
normal rules, and have been scorned and even arrested by those from the
'civilized world', are becomming scarcer every day. This is due to the
greater fear of what a good hacker (skill wise, no moral judgements
here)|can do nowadays, thus causing anti- hacker sentiment in the masses.
Also, few hackers seem to actually know about the computer systems they
hack, or what equipment they will run into on the front end, or what they
could do wrong on a system to alert the 'higher' authorities who monitor
the system. This article is intended to tell you about some things not to
do, even before you get on the system. I will tell you about the new wave
of front end security devices that are beginning to be used on computers.
I will attempt to instill in you a second identity, to be brought up at
time of great need, to pull you out of trouble. And, by the way, I take no, repeat,
no, responcibility for what we say in this and the forthcoming articles.
Enough of the bullshit, on to the fun: after logging on your favorite bbs,
you see on the high access board a phone number! It says it's a great
system to "fuck around with!" This may be true, but how many other people
are going to call the same number? So: try to avoid calling a number
given to the public. This is because there are at least every other
user calling, and how many other boards will that number spread to?
If you call a number far, far away, and you plan on going thru an
extender or a re-seller, don't keep calling the same access number
(I.E. As you would if you had a hacker running), this looks very suspicious
and can make life miserable when the phone bill comes in the mail.
Most cities have a variety of access numbers and services,
so use as many as you can. Never trust a change in the system...
The 414's, the assholes, were caught for this reason: when one of them
connected to the system, there was nothing good there. The next time,
there was a trek game stuck right in their way! They proceded to play said
game for two, say two and a half hours, while telenet was tracing them!
Nice job, don't you think? If anything looks suspicious, drop the line
immediately!! As in, yesterday!! The point we're trying to get accross is:
if you use a little common sence, you won't get busted. Let the little
kids who aren't smart enough to recognize a trap get busted, it will take
the heat off of the real hackers. Now, let's say you get on a computer
system... It looks great, checks out, everything seems fine.
Ok, now is when it gets more dangerous. You have to know the computer
system to know what not to do.
Basically, keep away from any command something, copy a new file into the
account, or whatever! Always leave the account in the same status you
logged in with. Change *nothing*... If it isn't an account with priv's,
then don't try any commands that require them! All, yes all, systems are
going to be keeping log files of what users are doing, and that will
show up. It is just like dropping a trouble-card in an ESS system,
after sending that nice operator a pretty tone.
Spend no excessive amounts of time on the account in one stretch.
Keep your calling to the very late night ifpossible, or during
business hours (believe it or not!). It so happens
that there are more users on during business hours, and it is very
difficult to read a log file with 60 users doing many commnds every minute.
Try to avoid systems where everyone knows each other, don't try to bluff.
And above all: never act like you own the system, or are the best there
is. They always grab the people who's heads swell... There is some very
interesting front end equipment around nowadays, but first let's
define terms... By front end, we mean any device that you must
pass thru to get at the real computer. There are devices that are made to
defeat hacker programs, and just plain old multiplexers.
To defeat hacker programs, there are now devices that pick up the phone
and just sit there... This means that your device gets no carrier,
thus you think there isn't a computer on the other end. The
only way around it is to detect when it was picked up. If it pickes up
after the same number ring, then you know it is a hacker-defeater.
These devices take a multi-digit code to let you into the system.
Some are, in fact, quite sophisticated to the point where it
will also limit the user name's down, so only one name or set of names
can be valid logins after they input the code... Other devices input a
number code, and then they dial back a pre-programmed number for that code.
These systems are best to leave alone,
because they know someone is playing with their phone. You may think "but
i'll just reprogram the dial-back." Think again, how stupid that is...
Then they have your number, or a test loop if you were just a little
smarter. If it's your number, they have your balls (if male...),
If its a loop, then you are screwed again, since those loops
are *monitored*. As for multiplexers... What a plexer is supposed
to do is this:
The system can accept multiple users. We have to time share, so we'll let
the front-end processor do it... Well, this is what a multiplexer does.
Usually they will ask for something like "enter class" or "line:". Usually
it is programmed for a double digit number, or a four to five letter word.
There are usually a few sets of numbers it accepts, but those numbers also
set your 300/1200/2400 baud data type.
These multiplexers are inconvenient at best, so not to worry. A little
about the history of hacking: hacking, by my definition, means a great
knowledge of some special area. Doctors and lawyers
are hackers of a sort, by this definition. But most often, it is
being used in the computer context, and thus we have a definition of
"anyone who has a great amount of computer or telecommunications
knowledge." You are not a hacker because you have a list of codes...
Hacking, by my definition, has then been around only about 15 years.
It started, where else but, mit and colleges where they had computer
science or electrical engineering departments.
Hackers have created some of the best computer languages, the
most awesome operating systems, and even gone on to make millions.
Hacking used to have a good name, when we could honestly say
"we know what we are doing". Now it means (in the public eye):
the 414's, ron austin, the nasa hackers, the arpanet hackers...
All the people who have been caught,
have done damage, and are now going to have to face fines and sentences.
Thus we come past the moralistic crap, and to our purpose: educate the
hacker community, return to the days when people actually knew something...
--------------Jolly Roger
Hacking DEC's by the Jolly Roger
In this article you will learn how to log in to dec's, logging out, and all
the fun stuff to do in-between. All of this information is based on a
standard dec system.
Since there are dec systems 10 and 20, and I favor, the dec 20,
there will be more info on them in this article. It just so happens
that the dec 20 is also the more common of the two, and is used by much
more interesting people (if you know what I mean...) Ok, the first thing
you want to do when you are receiving carrier from a dec system is to find
out the format of login names. You can do this by looking at who is on the
system.
Dec=> ` (the 'exec' level prompt)
you=> sy
sy is short for sy(stat) and shows you the system status.
You should see the format of login names...
A systat usually comes up in this form:
job line program user
job: the job number (not important unless you want to log them off later)
line: what line they are on (used to talk to them...)
These are both two or three digit numbers.
Program: what program are they running under? If it says 'exec'
they aren't doing anything at all...
User: ahhhahhhh! This is the user name they are logged in under...
Copy the format, and hack yourself outa working code... Login format is as
such:
dec=> `
you=> login username password
username is the username in the format you saw above in the systat.
After you hit the space after your username, it will stop echoing
characters back to your screen. This is the password you are typing in...
Remember, people usually use their name, their dog's name, the name of a
favorite character in a book, or something like this. A few clever
people have it set to a key cluster (qwerty or asdfg). Pw's can be from 1
to 8 characters long, anything after that is ignored. You are finally in...
It would be nice to have a little help, wouldn't it? Just type a ? Or the
word help, and it will give you a whole list of topics...
Some handy characters for you to know would be the control keys,
wouldn't it? Backspace on a dec 20 is rub which is 255 on your ascii chart.
On the dec 10 it is cntrl-h. To abort a long listing or a program,
cntrl-c works fine. Use cntrl-o to stop long output to the terminal.
This is handy when playing a game, but you don't want to cntrl-c out.
Cntrl-t for the time. Cntrl-u will kill the whole line you are typing at
the moment. You may accidently run a program where the only way out is
a cntrl-x, so keep that in reserve. Cntrl-s to stop listing, cntrl-q to
continue on both systems. Is your terminal having trouble??
Like, it pauses for no reason, or it doesn't backspace right? This is
because both systems support many terminals, and you haven't told it what
yours is yet... You are using a vt05
so you need to tell it you are one.
Dec=> `
you=> information terminal
or...
You=> info
this shows you what your terminal is set up as...
Dec=>all sorts of shit, then the `
you=> set ter vt05 this sets your terminal
type to vt05.
Now let's see what is in the account (here after abbreviated acct.)
that you have hacked onto... Say
=> dir
short for directory, it shows
you what the user of the code has save to the disk. There should be a format
like this: xxxxx.Oooxxxxx is the file name, from 1 to 20 characters
long. Ooo is the file type, one of: exe, txt, dat, bas, cmd and a few
others that are system dependant.
Exe is a compiled program that can be run (just by typing its name at the `).
Txt is a text file, which you can see by
typing=>
type xxxxx.Txt
Do not try to=>
type xxxxx.Exe this is very bad for your terminal and will tell you
absolutly nothing.
Dat is data they have saved.
Bas is a basic program, you can have it typed out for you.
Cmd is a command type file, a little too
complicated to go into here.
Try =>
take xxxxx.Cmd
By the way, there are other users out there who may have files you can use
(gee, why else am I here?).
Type => dir <*.*> (Dec 20)
=> dir [*,*] (dec 10)
* is a wildcard, and will allow you to access the files on other accounts
if the user has it set for public access. If it isn't set for public access,
then you won't see it. To run that program:
dec=> `
you=> username program-name
username is the directory you saw the
file listed under, and file name was
what else but the file name?
** You are not alone **
remember, you said (at the very start) sy short for systat,
and how we said this showed the other users on the system? Well, you
can talk to them, or at least send a message to anyone you see listed in a
systat. You can do this by:
dec=> the user list (from your systat)
you=> talkusername (dec 20)
send username (dec 10)
talk allows you and them immediate transmission of whatever you/they type
to be sent to the other. Send only allow you one message to be sent, and
send, they will send back to you, with talk you can just keep going. By the
way, you may be noticing with the talk command that what you type is still
acted upon by the parser (control program). To avoid the constant error
messages type either:
you=> ;your message
you=> rem your message
the semi-colon tells the parser that what follows is just a comment. Rem
is short for 'remark' and ignores you from then on until you type a cntrl-z
or cntrl-c, at which point it puts you back in the exec mode. To break the
connection from a talk command type:
you=> break priv's:
if you happen to have privs, you can do all sorts of things.
First of all, you have to activate those privs.
You=> enable
this gives you a $ prompt, and allows you to do this:
whatever you can do to your own directory you can now do to any
other directory. To create a new acct. Using your privs, just type
=>build username
if username is old, you can edit it, if it is new, you can
define it to be whatever you wish. Privacy means nothing to a user with
privs. By the way, there are various levels of privs: operator, wheel,
cia.
wheel is the most powerful, being that he can log in from anywhere and
have his powers.
Operators have their power because they are at a special terminal
allowing them the privs. Cia is short for 'confidential information
access', which allows you a low level amount of privs.
Not to worry though, since you can read the system log file, which also
has the passwords to all the other accounts.
To de-activate your privs, type
you=> disable
when you have played your greedy heart out, you can finally leave the
system with the command=>
logout
this logs the job you are using off the system (there may be varients
of this such as kjob, or killjob).
----------------Jolly Roger
Hacking DEC's by the Jolly Roger
In this article you will learn how to log in to dec's, logging out, and all
the fun stuff to do in-between. All of this information is based on a
standard dec system.
Since there are dec systems 10 and 20, and I favor, the dec 20,
there will be more info on them in this article. It just so happens
that the dec 20 is also the more common of the two, and is used by much
more interesting people (if you know what I mean...) Ok, the first thing
you want to do when you are receiving carrier from a dec system is to find
out the format of login names. You can do this by looking at who is on the
system.
Dec=> ` (the 'exec' level prompt)
you=> sy
sy is short for sy(stat) and shows you the system status.
You should see the format of login names...
A systat usually comes up in this form:
job line program user
job: the job number (not important unless you want to log them off later)
line: what line they are on (used to talk to them...)
These are both two or three digit numbers.
Program: what program are they running under? If it says 'exec'
they aren't doing anything at all...
User: ahhhahhhh! This is the user name they are logged in under...
Copy the format, and hack yourself outa working code... Login format is as
such:
dec=> `
you=> login username password
username is the username in the format you saw above in the systat.
After you hit the space after your username, it will stop echoing
characters back to your screen. This is the password you are typing in...
Remember, people usually use their name, their dog's name, the name of a
favorite character in a book, or something like this. A few clever
people have it set to a key cluster (qwerty or asdfg). Pw's can be from 1
to 8 characters long, anything after that is ignored. You are finally in...
It would be nice to have a little help, wouldn't it? Just type a ? Or the
word help, and it will give you a whole list of topics...
Some handy characters for you to know would be the control keys,
wouldn't it? Backspace on a dec 20 is rub which is 255 on your ascii chart.
On the dec 10 it is cntrl-h. To abort a long listing or a program,
cntrl-c works fine. Use cntrl-o to stop long output to the terminal.
This is handy when playing a game, but you don't want to cntrl-c out.
Cntrl-t for the time. Cntrl-u will kill the whole line you are typing at
the moment. You may accidently run a program where the only way out is
a cntrl-x, so keep that in reserve. Cntrl-s to stop listing, cntrl-q to
continue on both systems. Is your terminal having trouble??
Like, it pauses for no reason, or it doesn't backspace right? This is
because both systems support many terminals, and you haven't told it what
yours is yet... You are using a vt05
so you need to tell it you are one.
Dec=> `
you=> information terminal
or...
You=> info
this shows you what your terminal is set up as...
Dec=>all sorts of shit, then the `
you=> set ter vt05 this sets your terminal
type to vt05.
Now let's see what is in the account (here after abbreviated acct.)
that you have hacked onto... Say
=> dir
short for directory, it shows
you what the user of the code has save to the disk. There should be a format
like this: xxxxx.Oooxxxxx is the file name, from 1 to 20 characters
long. Ooo is the file type, one of: exe, txt, dat, bas, cmd and a few
others that are system dependant.
Exe is a compiled program that can be run (just by typing its name at the `).
Txt is a text file, which you can see by
typing=>
type xxxxx.Txt
Do not try to=>
type xxxxx.Exe this is very bad for your terminal and will tell you
absolutly nothing.
Dat is data they have saved.
Bas is a basic program, you can have it typed out for you.
Cmd is a command type file, a little too
complicated to go into here.
Try =>
take xxxxx.Cmd
By the way, there are other users out there who may have files you can use
(gee, why else am I here?).
Type => dir <*.*> (Dec 20)
=> dir [*,*] (dec 10)
* is a wildcard, and will allow you to access the files on other accounts
if the user has it set for public access. If it isn't set for public access,
then you won't see it. To run that program:
dec=> `
you=> username program-name
username is the directory you saw the
file listed under, and file name was
what else but the file name?
** You are not alone **
remember, you said (at the very start) sy short for systat,
and how we said this showed the other users on the system? Well, you
can talk to them, or at least send a message to anyone you see listed in a
systat. You can do this by:
dec=> the user list (from your systat)
you=> talkusername (dec 20)
send username (dec 10)
talk allows you and them immediate transmission of whatever you/they type
to be sent to the other. Send only allow you one message to be sent, and
send, they will send back to you, with talk you can just keep going. By the
way, you may be noticing with the talk command that what you type is still
acted upon by the parser (control program). To avoid the constant error
messages type either:
you=> ;your message
you=> rem your message
the semi-colon tells the parser that what follows is just a comment. Rem
is short for 'remark' and ignores you from then on until you type a cntrl-z
or cntrl-c, at which point it puts you back in the exec mode. To break the
connection from a talk command type:
you=> break priv's:
if you happen to have privs, you can do all sorts of things.
First of all, you have to activate those privs.
You=> enable
this gives you a $ prompt, and allows you to do this:
whatever you can do to your own directory you can now do to any
other directory. To create a new acct. Using your privs, just type
=>build username
if username is old, you can edit it, if it is new, you can
define it to be whatever you wish. Privacy means nothing to a user with
privs. By the way, there are various levels of privs: operator, wheel,
cia.
wheel is the most powerful, being that he can log in from anywhere and
have his powers.
Operators have their power because they are at a special terminal
allowing them the privs. Cia is short for 'confidential information
access', which allows you a low level amount of privs.
Not to worry though, since you can read the system log file, which also
has the passwords to all the other accounts.
To de-activate your privs, type
you=> disable
when you have played your greedy heart out, you can finally leave the
system with the command=>
logout
this logs the job you are using off the system (there may be varients
of this such as kjob, or killjob).
----------------Jolly Roger
Harmless Bombs by the Jolly Roger
To all those who do not wish to inflict bodily damage on their victims
but only terror.
These are weapons that should be used from high places.
1) The flour bomb.
Take a wet paper towel and pour a given amount of baking flour in
the center. Then wrap it up and put on a rubber band to keep it
together. When thrown it will fly well but when it hits, it covers
the victim with the flower or causes a big puff of flour which will
put the victim in terror since as far as they are concerned, some
strange white powder is all over them. This is a cheap method of
terror and for only the cost of a roll of paper towels and a bag of
flour you and your friends can have loads of fun watching people
flee in panic.
2) Smoke bomb projectile.
All you need is a bunch of those little round smoke bombs and a
wrist rocket or any sling-shot. Shoot the smoke bombs and watch the
terror since they think it will blow up!
3) Rotten eggs (good ones)
Take some eggs and get a sharp needle
and poke a small hole in the top of each one.
Then let them sit in a warm place for about a week. Then you've got a
bunch of rotten eggs that will only smell when they hit.
4) Glow in the dark terror.
Take one of those tubes of glow in the dark stuff and pour the
stuff on whatever you want to throw and when it gets on the victim,
they think it's some deadly chemical or a radioactive substance so
they run in total panic. This works especially well with flower
bombs since a gummy, glowing substance gets all over the victim.
5) Fizzling panic.
Take a baggie of a water-baking soda solution and seal it. (Make
sure there is no air in it since the solution will form a gas and
you don't want it to pop on you.) Then put it in a bigger plastic
bag and fill it with vinegar and seal it. When thrown, the two
substances will mix and cause a violently bubbling substance to go
all over the victim.
---------------Jolly Roger
Breaking Into Houses by the Jolly Roger
Okay You Need:
1. Tear Gas or Mace
2. A BB/Pelet Gun
3. An Ice Pick
4. Thick Gloves
What You Do Is:
1. Call the ###-#### of the house, or ring doorbell, To find out if
they're home.
2. If they're not home then...
3. Jump over the fence or walk through gate (whatever).
4. If you see a dog give him the mace or tear gas.
5. Put the gloves on!!!!!!!
6. Shoot the BB gun slightly above the window locks.
7. Push the ice-pick through the hole (made by the BB gun).
8. Enter window.
9. FIRST...Find the LIVING ROOM. (they're neat things there!).
10. Then goto the Bed-room to get a pillow case. Put the goodies in
the pillow case.
11. Get out <-* FAST! -*>
Notes: You should have certian targets worked out (like computers,
Radios, Ect.,Ect.). Also <-* NEVER *-> Steal from your own
neigborhood. If you think they have an alarm...<-* FORGET IT! *->.
---------------Jolly Roger
A Guide to Hypnotism Courtesy of the Jolly Roger
(Originally an Apple ][ file, forgive the uppercase!)
+-------------------+
! WHAT HYPNOTISM IS !
+-------------------+
HYPNOTISM, CONTRARY TO COMMON BELEIF, IS MERELY STATE WHEN YOUR MIND AND
BODY ARE IN A STATE OF RELAXATION AND YOUR MIND IS OPEN TO POSITIVE, OR
CLEVERLY WORDED NEGATIVE, INFLUENCES. IT IS NOT A TRANCE WHERE YOU:
> ARE TOTALLY INFLUENCABLE.
> CANNOT LIE.
> A SLEEP WHICH YOU CANNOT WAKE UP FROM
WITHOUT HELP.
THIS MAY BRING DOWN YOUR HOPE SOMEWHAT, BUT, HYPNOTISM IS A POWERFUL FOR
SELF HELP, AND/OR MISCHEIF.
+-----------------------+
! YOUR SUBCONCIOUS MIND !
+-----------------------+
BEFORE GOING IN FURTHER, I'D LIKE TO STATE THAT HYPNOTISM NOT ONLY IS
GREAT IN THE WAY THAT IT RELAXES YOU AND GETS YOU (IN THE LONG RUN) WHAT
YOU WANT, BUT ALSO THAT IT TAPS A FORCE OF INCREDIBLE POWER, BELEIVE IT OR
NOT, THIS POWER IS YOUR SUBCONCIOUS MIND.
THE SUBCONCIOUS MIND ALWAYS KNOWS WHAT IS GOING ON WITH EVERY PART OF YOUR BODY,
EVERY MOMENT OF THE DAY. IT PROTECTS YOU FROM NEGATIVE INFLUENCES,
AND RETAINS THE POWER TO SLOW YOUR HEARTBEAT DOWN AND STUFF LIKE THAT.
THE SUBCONCIOUS MIND HOLDS JUST ABOUT ALL THE INFO YOU WOULD LIKE TO KNOW
ABOUT YOURSELF, OR, IN THIS CASE, THE PERSON YOU WILL BE HYPNOTISING.
THERE ARE MANY WAYS TO TALK TO YOUR SUBCONCIOUS AND HAVE IT TALK BACK TO
YOU. ONE WAY IS THE OUJA BOARD, NO ITS NOT A SPIRIT, MERELY THE
MINDS OF THOSE WHO ARE USING IT. ANOTHER, WHICH I WILL DISCUSS HERE,
IS THE PENDULUM METHOD. OK, HERE IS HOW IT GOES.
FIRST, GET A RING OR A WASHER AND TIE IT TO A THREAD A LITTLE LONGER THAN
HALF OF YOUR FOREARM. NOW, TAKE A SHEET OF PAPER AND DRAW A BIG CIRCLE IN
IT. IN THE BIG CIRCLE YOU MUST NOW DRAW A CROSSHAIR (A BIG +). NOW, PUT
THE SHEET OF PAPER ON A TABLE. NEXT, HOLD THE THREAD WITH THE RING OR
WASHER ON IT AND PLACE IT (HOLDING THE THREAD SO THAT THE RING IS 1 INCH
ABOVE THE PAPER SWINGING) IN THE MIDDLE OF THE CROSSHAIR. NOW, SWING
THE THREAD SO THE WASHER GOES UP AND DOWN, SAY TO YOURSELF THE WORD "YES"
NOW, DO IT SIDE TO SIDE AND SAY THE WORD "NO".
DO IT COUNTER CLOCKWISE AND SAY "I DON'T KNOW".
AND LASTLY, DO IT CLOCKWISE AND SAY "I DONT WANT TO SAY." NOW, WITH THE
THREAD BACK IN THE MIDDLE OF THE CROSSHAIR, ASK YOURSELF QUESTIONS AND
WAIT FOR THE PENDULUM TO SWING IN THE DIRECTION FOR THE ANSWER. (YES, NO,
I DONT KNOW OR I DONT WANNA SAY...). SOON, TO YOUR AMAZEMENT, IT WILL BE
ANSWERING QUESTIONS LIKE ANYTHING... LET THE PENDULUM ANSWER, DONT TRY..
WHEN YOU TRY YOU WILL NEVER GET AN ANSWER. LET THE ANSWER COME TO YOU.
+-------------------------+
! HOW TO INDUCE HYPNOTISM !
+-------------------------+
NOW THAT YOU KNOW HOW TO TALK TO YOUR SUBCONCIOUS MIND, I WILL NOW TELL YOU
HOW TO GUIDE SOMEONE INTO HYPNOSIS. NOTE THAT I SAID GUIDE, YOU CAN NEVER,
HYNOTISE SOMEONE, THEY MUST BE WILLING. OK, THE SUBJECT MUST BE LYING OR
SITTING IN A COMFORTABLE POSITION, RELAXED, AND AT A TIME WHEN THINGS ARENT
GOING TO BE INTERRUPTED.
TELL THEM THE FOLLOWING OR SOMETHING CLOSE TO IT, IN A PEACEFUL, MONOTINOUS
TONE (NOT A COMMANDING TONE OF VOICE)
NOTE: LIGHT A CANDLE AND PLACE IT SOMEWHERE WHERE IT CAN BE EASILY SEEN.
TAKE A DEEP BREATH THROUGH YOUR NOSE AND HOLD IT IN FOR A COUNT OF 8. NOW,
THROUGH YOUR MOUTH, EXHALE COMPLETELY AND SLOWLY. CONTINUED BREATHING LONG,
DEEP, BREATHS THROUGH YOUR NOSE AND EXHALING THROUGH YOUR MOUTH. TENSE UP
ALL YOUR MUSCLES VERY TIGHT, NOW, COUNTING FROM TEN TO ONE, RELEASE THEM
SLOWLY, YOU WILL FIND THEM VERY RELAXED. NOW, LOOK AT THE CANDLE, AS
YOU LOOK AT IT, WITH EVERY BREATH AND PASSING MOMEMENT, YOU ARE FEELING
INCREASINGLY MORE AND MORE PEACEFUL AND RELAXED. THE CANDLES FLAME IS
PEACEFUL AND BRIGHT.
AS YOU LOOK AT IT I WILL COUNT FROM 100 DOWN, AS A COUNT, YOUR EYES WILL
BECOME MORE AND MORE RELAXED, GETTING MORE AND MORE TIRED WITH EACH
PASSING MOMENT."
NOW, COUNT DOWN FROM 100, ABOUT EVERY 10 NUMBERS SAY "WHEN I REACH XX YOUR
EYES (OR YOU WILL FIND YOUR EYES) ARE BECOMING MORE AND MORE TIRED." TELL
THEM THEY MAY CLOSE THEIR EYES WHENEVER THEY FEEL LIKE IT. IF THE PERSONS
EYES ARE STILL OPEN WHEN YOU GET TO 50 THEN INSTEAD OF SAYING
"YOUR EYES WILL.."
SAY "YOUR EYES ARE...".
WHEN THEIR EYES ARE SHUT SAY THE FOLLOWING. AS YOU LIE (OR SIT) HERE WITH
YOUR EYES COMFORTABLY CLOSE YOU FIND YOURSELF RELAXING MORE AND
MORE WITH EACH MOMENT AND BREATH.
THE RELAXATION FEELS PLEASANT AND BLISSFUL SO, YOU HAPPILY GIVE WAY TO
THIS WONDERFUL FEELING. IMAGINGE YOURSELF ON A CLOUD, RESTING PEACEFULLY,
WITH A SLIGHT BREEZE CARESSING YOUR BODY. A TINGLING SENSASION BEGINS
TO WORK ITS WAY, WITHIN AND WITHOUT YOUR TOES, IT SLOWLY MOVES UP YOUR
FEET, MAKING THEM WARM, HEAVY AND RELAXED. THE CLOUD IS SOFT AND SUPPORTS
YOUR BODY WITH ITS SOFT TEXTURE, THE SCENE IS PEACEFUL AND ABSORBING,
THE PEACEFULNESS ABSORBS YOU COMPLETELY...
THE TINGLING GENTLY AND SLOWLY MOVES UP YOUR LEGS, RELAXING THEM.
MAKING THEM WARM AND HEAVY. THE RELAXATION FEELS VERY GOOD, IT FEELS SO
GOOD TO RELAX AND LET GO. AS THE TINGLING CONTINUES ITS JOURNEY UP INTO
YOUR SOLAR PLEXUS, YOU FEEL YOUR INNER STOMACH BECOME VERY RELAXED. NOW,
IT MOVES SLOWLY INTO YOUR CHEST, MAKING YOUR BREATHING RELAXED AS WELL.
THE FEELING BEGINS TO MOVE UP YOUR ARMS TO YOUR SHOULDERS, MAKING YOUR ARMS
HEAVY AND RELAXED AS WELL. YOU ARE AWARE OF THE TOTAL RELAXATION YOU ARE
NOW EXPERIENCING, AND YOU GIVE WAY TO IT. IT IS GOOD AND PEACEFUL, THE
TINGLING NOW MOVEVES INTO YOUR FACE AND HEAD, RELAXING YOUR JAWS, NECK, AND
FACIAL MUSCLES, MAKING YOUR CARES AND WORRIES FLOAT AWAY. AWAY INTO THE
BLUE SKY AS YOU REST BLISFUlLY ON THE CLOUD....
IF THEY ARE NOT RESPONSIVE OR YOU THINK THEY (HE OR SHE..) IS GOING TO
SLEEP, THEN ADD IN A "...ALWAYS CONCENTRATING UPON MY VOICE, INGORING ALL
OTHER SOUNDS. EVEN THOUGH OTHER SOUNDS EXSIST, THEY AID YOU IN YOUR
RELAXATION..." THEY SHOULD SOON LET OUT A SIGH AS IF THEY WERE LETTING GO,
AND THEIR FACE SHOULD HAVE A "WOODENESS" TO IT, BECOMING FEATURLESS... NOW,
SAY THE FOLLOWING ".... YOU NOW FIND YOURSELF IN A HALLWAY, THE HALLWAY IS
PEACEFUL AND NICE. AS I COUNT FROM 10 TO 1 YOU WILL IMAGINE YOURSELF
WALKING FURTHER AND FURTHER DOWN THE HALL. WHEN I REACH ONE YOU WILL FIND
YOURSELF WHERE YOU WANT TO BE, IN ANOTHER, HIGHER STATE OF CONCIOUS AND
MIND. (COUNT FROM TEN TO ONE)....." DO THIS ABOUT THREE OR FOUR TIMES.
THEN, TO TEST IF THE SUBJECT IS UNDER HYPNOSIS OR NOT, SAY....
"...YOU FEEL A STRANGE SENSATION IN YOUR (ARM THEY WRITE WITH) ARM, THE
FEELING BEGINS AT YOUR FINGERS AND SLOWLY MOVES UP YOUR ARM, AS IT MOVES
THROUGH YOUR ARM YOUR ARM BECOMES LIGHTER AND LIGHTER, IT WILL SOON BE SO
LIGHT IT WILL ..... BECOMING LIGHTER AND LIGHTER WHICH EACH BREATH AND
MOMENT..."
THEIR FINGERS SHOULD BEGIN TO TWITCH AND THEN MOVE UP, THE ARM FOLLOWING,
NOW MY FRIEND, YOU HAVE HIM/HEP IN HYPNOSIS. THE FIRST TIME YOU DO THIS,
WHILE HE/SHE IS UNDER SAY GOOD THINGS, LIKE: "YOUR GOING TO FEEL GREAT
TOMORROW" OR "EVERY DAY IN EVERY WAY YOU WILL FIND YOURSELF BECOMING BETTER
AND BETTER".. OR SOME CRAP LIKE THAT... THE MORE THEY GO UNDER, THE DEEPER
IN HYPNOSIS THEY WILL GET EACH TIME YOU DO IT.
+----------------------------+
! WHAT TO DO WHEN HYPNOTISED !
+----------------------------+
WHEN YOU HAVE THEM UNDER YOU MUST WORD THINGS VERY CAREFULLY TO GET YOUR
WAY. YOU CANNOT SIMPLY SAY... TAKE OFF YOUR CLOTHES AND FUCK THE PILLOW.
NO, THAT WOULD NOT REALLY DO THE TRICK. YOU MUST SAY SOMETHING LIKE....
"YOU FIND YOUR SELF AT HOME, IN YOUR ROOM AND YOU HAVE TO TAKE A SHOWER
(VIVIDLY DESCRIBE THEIR ROOM AND WHATS HAPPENING), YOU BEGIN TO TAKE OFF
YOUR CLOTHES..." NOW, IT CANT BE THAT SIMPLE, YOU MUST KNOW THE PERSONS
HOUSE, ROOM, AND SHOWER ROOM. THEN DESCRIBE THINGS VIVIDLY AND TELL THEM
TO ACT IT OUT (THEY HAVE TO BE DEEPLY UNDER TO DO THIS...). I WOULD JUST
SUGGEST THAT YOU EXPERIMENT A WHILE, AND GET TO KNOW HO; TO DO THINGS.
+-----------+
! WAKING UP !
+-----------+
WAKING UP IS VERY EASY, JUST SAY.. "...AS I COUNT FROM 1 TO 5 YOU WILL
FIND YOURSELF BECOMMING MORE AND MORE AWAKE, MORE AND MORE LIVELY. WHEN
YOU WAKE UP YOU WILL FIND YOURSELF COMPLETELY ALIVE, AWAKE, AND REFRESHED.
MENTALLY AND PHYSICALLY, REMEMBERING THE PLEASANT SENSATION THAT HYPNOSIS
BRINGS... WAKING UP FEELING LIKE A NEW BORN BABY, REBORN WITH LIFE AND
VIGOR, FEELING EXCELLENT. REMEMBERING THAT NEXT TIME YOU ENTER HYPNOSIS IT
WILL BECOME AN EVER INCREASING DEEPER AND DEEPER STATE THAN BEFORE.
1- YOU FEEL ENERGY COURSE THROUGHOUT YOUR LIMBS.
2- YOU BEGIN TO BREATHE DEEPLY, STIRRING.
3- BEGINING TO MOVE MORE AND MORE YOUR EYES OPEN, BRINGING YOU UP TO
FULL CONCIOUS.
4- YOU ARE UP,UP, UP AND AWAKENING MORE AND MORE.
5- YOU ARE AWAKE AND FEELING GREAT."
AND THATS IT! YOU NOW KNOW HOW TO HYPNOTISE YOURSELF AND SOMEONE ELSE.
YOU WILL LEARN MORE AND MORE AS YOU EXPERIMENT.
------------------Jolly Roger
##########################################################################
# #
# The Remote Informer #
# #
#------------------------------------------------------------------------#
# Reader supported newsletter for the underworld #
#------------------------------------------------------------------------#
# #
# Editors: Tracker and Norman Bates #
# #
#========================================================================#
# September 1987 Issue: 01 #
#========================================================================#
# The Headlines #
#------------------------------------------------------------------------#
# 1) Introduction #
# 2) Hacking Sprint: The Easy Way #
# 3) Rumors: Why spread them? #
# 4) The New Sprint FON Calling Cards #
# 5) Automatic Number Identifier (ANI) #
##########################################################################
Introduction
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Welcome to the first issue of 'The Remote Informer'! This newsletter
is reader supported. If the readers of this newsletter do not help
support it, then it will end. We are putting this out to help out the
ones that would like to read it. If you are one of those who thinks they
know everything, then don't bother reading it. This newsletter is not
anything like the future issues. The future issues will contain several
sections, as long as reader input is obtained. Below is an outline
overview of the sections in the future issues.
I/O Board (Input/Output Board)
The I/O Board is for questions you have, that we might be able to
answer or atleast refer you to someone or something. We will be honest if
we cannot help you. We will not make up something, or to the effect, just
to make it look like we answered you. There will be a section in the I/O
Board for questions we cannot answer, and then the readers will have the
opportunity to answer it. We will print anything that is reasonable in
the newsletter, even complaints if you feel like you are better than
everyone.
NewsCenter
This section will be for news around the underworld. It will talk of
busts of people in the underworld and anything else that would be
considered news. If you find articles in the paper, or something happens
in your local area, type it up, and upload it to one of the boards listed
at the end of the newsletter. Your handle will be placed in the article.
If you do enter a news article, please state the date and from where you
got it.
Feature Section
The Feature Section will be the largest of the sections as it will be
on the topic that is featured in that issue. This will be largely reader
input which will be sent in between issues. At the end of the issue at
hand, it will tell the topic of the next issue, therefore, if you have
something to contribute, then you will have ample time to prepare your
article.
Hardware/Software Review
In this section, we will review the good and bad points of hardware
and software related to the underworld. It will be an extensive review,
rather than just a small paragraph.
The Tops
This section will be the area where the top underworld BBS's, hacking
programs, modem scanners, etc. will be shown. This will be reader
selected and will not be altered in anyway. The topics are listed below.
Underworld BBS's (Hack, Phreak, Card, Anarchy, etc.)
Hacking programs for Hayes compatables
Hacking programs for 1030/Xm301 modems
Modem scanners for Hayes compatables
Modem scanners for 1030/Xm301 modems
Other type illegal programs
You may add topics to the list if enough will support it.
Tid Bits
This will contain tips and helpful information sent in by the users.
If you have any information you wish to contribute, then put it in a text
file and upload it to one of the BBS's listed at the end of the
newsletter.
Please, no long distance codes, mainframe passwords, etc.
We may add other sections as time goes by. This newsletter will not
be put out on a regular basis. It will be put out when we have enough
articles and information to put in it. There may be up to 5 a month, but
there will always be at least one a month. We would like you, the readers,
to send us anything you feel would be of interest to others, like hacking
hints, methods of hacking long distance companies, companies to card from,
etc. We will maintain the newsletter as long as the readers support it.
That is the end of the introduction, but take a look at this newsletter,
as it does contain information that may be of value to you.
==========================================================================
Hacking Sprint: The Easy Way
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
By: Tracker
If you hack US Sprint, 950-0777 (by the way it is no longer GTE
Sprint), and you are fustrated at hacking several hours only to find one
or two codes, then follow these tips, and it will increase your results
tremendously. First, one thing that Mr. Mojo proved is that Sprint will
not store more than one code in every hundred numbers. (ex: 98765400 to
98765499 may contain only one code). There may NOT be a code in that
hundred, but there will never be more than one.
Sprint's 9 digit codes are stored from 500000000 through 999999999.
In the beginning of Sprint's 950 port, they only had 8 digit codes. Then
they started converting to 9 digit codes, storing all 8 digit codes
between 10000000 and 49999999 and all 9 digit codes between 500000000 and
999999999. Sprint has since cancelled most 8 digit codes, although there
are a few left that have been denoted as test codes. Occaisionally, I
hear of phreaks saying they have 8 digit codes, but when verifying them,
the codes were invalid.
Now, where do you start? You have already narrowed the low and high
numbers in half, therefore already increasing your chances of good results
by 50 percent. The next step is to find a good prefix to hack. By the
way, a prefix, in hacking terms, is the first digits in a code that can be
any length except the same number of digits the code is. (ex: 123456789
is a code. That means 1, 12, 123, 1234, 12345, 123456, 1234567, and
12345678 are prefixes) The way you find a good prefix to hack is to
manually enter a code prefix. If when you enter the code prefix and a
valid destination number and you do not hear the ringing of the recording
telling you that the code is invalid until near the end of the number,
then you know the prefix is valid. Here is a chart to follow when doing
this:
Code - Destination Range good codes exist
-------------------------------------------------
123456789 - 6192R 123400000 - 123499999
123456789 - 619267R 123450000 - 123459999
123456789 - 61926702R 123456000 - 123456999
123456789 - 6192670293R 123456700 - 123456799
-------------------------------------------------
( R - Denotes when ring for recording starts)
To prove
this true, I ran a test using OmniHack 1.3p, written by
Jolly Joe. In this test I found a prefix where the last 3 digits were all
I had to hack. I tested each hundred of the 6 digit prefix finding that
all but 4 had the ring start after the fourth digit was dialed in the
destination number. The other four did not ring until I had finished the
entire code. I set OmniHack to hack the prefix + 00 until prefix + 99.
(ex: xxxxxxy00 to xxxxxxy99: where y is one of the four numbers that the
ring did not start until the dialing was completed.) Using this method, I
found four codes in a total of 241 attempts using ascending hacking (AKA:
Sequential). Below you will see a record of my hack:
Range of hack Codes found Tries
----------------------------------------------
xxxxxx300 - xxxxxx399 xxxxxx350 50
xxxxxx500 - xxxxxx599 xxxxxx568 68
xxxxxx600 - xxxxxx699 xxxxxx646 46
xxxxxx800 - xxxxxx899 xxxxxx877 77
----------------------------------------------
Totals 4 codes 241
As you see, these methods work. Follow these guidlines and tips and
you should have an increase in production of codes in the future hacking
Sprint. Also, if you have any hints/tips you think others could benefit
from, then type them up and upload them to one of the boards at the end of
the newsletter.
==========================================================================
Rumors: Why Spread Them?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
By: Tracker
Do you ever get tired of hearing rumors? You know, someone gets an
urge to impress others, so they create a rumor that some long distance
company is now using tracing equipment. Why start rumors? It only scares
others out of phreaking, and then makes you, the person who started the
rumor, look like Mr. Big. This article is short, but it should make you
aware of the rumors that people spread for personal gain. The best thing
to do is to denote them as a rumor starter and then leave it at that. You
should not rag on them constantly, since if the other users cannot
determine if it is fact or rumor, then they should suffer the
consequences.
==========================================================================
The New Sprint FON Calling Cards
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
By: Tracker
US Sprint has opened up a new long distance network called the Fiber
Optic Network (FON), in which subscribers are given calling cards. These
calling cards are 14 digits, and though, seem randomly generated, they are
actually encrypted. The rumors floating around about people getting
caught using the Sprint FON calling cards are fact, not rumors. The
reason people are getting caught is that they confuse the FON calling
cards with the local 950 port authorization codes. If you will remember,
you never use AT&T calling cards from you home phone. It has ANI
capability, which is not tracing, but rather the originating phone number
is placed on the bill as soon as the call is completed. They know your
phone number when you call the 800 access port, but they do not record it
until your call is completed. Also, through several of my hacks, I came
up with some interesting information surrounding the new Sprint network.
They are listed below.
800-877-0000
This number is for information on US Sprint's 800 calling card
service. I have not played around with it, but I believe it is for
trouble or help with the FON calling cards. I am not sure if it is for
subscribing to the FON network.
800-877-0002 - You hear a short tone, then nothing.
800-877-0003 - US Sprint Alpha Test Channel #1
800-877-(0004-0999)
When you call these numbers, you get a recording saying: "Welcome to
US Sprint's 1 plus service." When the recording stops, if you hit the
pound key (#) you will get the calling card dial tone.
Other related Sprint numbers
800-521-4949 This is the number that you subscribe to US Sprint with.
You may also subscribe to the FON network on this number. It will take 4
to 5 weeks for your calling card to arrive.
10777
This is US Sprint's equal access number. When you dial this number,
you then dial the number you are calling, and it will be billed through US
Sprint, and you will receive their long distance line for that call. Note
that you will be billed for calls made through equal access. Do not
mistake it to be a method of phreaking, unless used from a remote
location.
If you are in US Sprint's 1+ service then call 1+700-555-1414, which
will tell you which long distance company you are using. When you hear:
"Thank you for choosing US Sprint's 1 plus service," hit the pound key
(#), and then you will get the US Sprint dial tone. This however is just
the same as if you are calling from your home phone if you dial direct, so
you would be billed for calls made through that, but there are ways to use
this to your advantage as in using equal access through a PBX.
==========================================================================
Automatic Number Identification (ANI)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
By: Tracker
The true definition for Automatic Number Identification has not been
widely known to many. Automatic Number Identification, (AKA: ANI), is the
process of the destination number knowing the originating number, which is
where you are calling from. The method of achieving this is to send the
phone number that you are calling from in coded form ahead of the
destination number. Below is an example of this.
ANI Method
Dial: 267-0293
Sent: ********2670293
* - Denotes the originating number which is coded and sent before the
number
As you noticed there are 8 digits in the coded number. This is
because, at least I believe, it is stored in a binary-like form.
Automatic Number Identification means a limited future in phreaking. ANI
does not threaten phreaking very much yet, but it will in the near future.
A new switching system will soon be installed in most cities that are
covered by ESS, Electronic Switching System, now.
The system will have ANI capabilities which will be supplied to the
owners of phone lines as an¢added extra. The owner's phone will have
an LED read-out that will show the phone number of the people that
call you. You will be able to block some numbers, so that people
cannot call you. This system is in the testing stages currently, but will
soon be installed across most of the country. As you see, this will
end a large part of phreaking, until we, the phreakers, can come up with
an alternative. As I have been told by several, usually reliable,
people, this system is called ISS, which I am not sure of the meaning of
this, and is being tested currently in Rhode Island.
800 in-watts lines set up by AT&T support ANI. The equipment to
decode an ANI coded origination number does not costs as much as you would
expect. 950 ports do not offer ANI capability, no matter what you have
been told. The 950 ports will only give the city in which they are based,
this usually being the largest in the state, sometimes the capitol.
One last thing that I should tell you is that ANI is not related to
tracing. Tracing can be done on any number whether local, 950, etc. One
way around this, especially when dialing Alliance TeleConferencing, is to
dial through several extenders or ports. ANI will only cover the number
that is calling it, and if you call through a number that does not support
ANI, then your number will never be known.
==========================================================================
The Disclaimer!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
We, the editors, take no responsibility for your actions and use of
the information in this newsletter. This newsletter is for informational
purposes only. There will never be any long distance codes, passwords,
etc. in this newsletter. If you are easily offended by telecommunication
discussions, then we suggest that you not read this newsletter. But for
those who are truely interested in the information in this newsletter,
enjoy it.
Brought to you in Cookbook, courtesy of the Jolly Roger!!!!!!!!!!
Jackpotting ATM Machines courtesy of the Jolly Roger
JACKPOTTING was done rather successfully a while back in (you guessed it)
New York. What the culprits did was:
Sever (actually cross over) the line between the ATM and the
host. insert a microcomputer between the ATM and the host. insert
a fradulent card into the ATM. (card=cash card, not hardware)
What the ATM did was: send a signal to the host, saying "Hey! Can I
give this guy money, or is he broke, or is his card invalid?"
What the microcomputer did was: intercept the signal from the host,
discard it, send "there's no one using the ATM" signal.
What the host did was: get the "no one using" signal, send back "okay,
then for God's sake don't spit out any money!" signal to ATM.
What the microcomputer did was:
intercept signal (again), throw it away (again), send "Wow! That
guy is like TOO rich! Give him as much money as he wants. In
fact, he's so loaded, give him ALL the cash we have! He is
really a valued customer." signal.
What the ATM did:
what else? Obediently dispense cash till the cows came home (or
very nearly so).
What the crooks got:
well in excess of $120,000 (for one weekend's work), and several
years when they were caught.
This story was used at a CRYPTOGRAPHY conference I attended a while
ago to demonstrate the need for better information security. The
lines between ATM's & their hosts are usually 'weak' in the sense that
the information transmitted on them is generally not encrypted in any
way. One of the ways that JACKPOTTING can be defeated is to encrypt
the information passing between the ATM and the host. As long as the
key cannot be determined from the ciphertext, the transmission (and
hence the transaction) is secure.
A more believable, technically accurate story might concern a person
who uses a computer between the ATM and the host to determine the key
before actually fooling the host. As everyone knows, people find
cryptanalysis a very exciting and engrossing subject...don't they?
(Hee-Hee)
_____ ______
| |-<<-| |-<<-| |
|ATM| micro |Host|
|___|->>-| |->>-|____|
The B of A ATM's are connected through dedicated lines to a host
computer as the Bishop said. However, for maintenance purposes, there
is at least one separate dial-up line also going to that same host
computer. This guy basically bs'ed his way over the phone till he
found someone stupid enough to give him th number. After finding that,
he had has Apple hack at the code. Simple.
Step 2: He had a friend go to an ATM with any B of A ATM card. He
stayed at home with the Apple connected to the host. When his friend
inserted the card, the host displayed it. The guy with the Apple
modified the status & number of the card directly in the host's
memory. He turned the card into a security card, used for testing
purposes. At that point, the ATM did whatever it's operator told it to
do.
The next day, he went into the bank with the $2000 he received,
talked to the manager and told him every detail of what he'd done. The
manager gave him his business card and told him that he had a job
waiting for him when he got out of school.
Now, B of A has been warned, they might have changed the system. On
the other hand, it'd be awful expensive to do that over the whole
country when only a handful of people have the resources and even less
have the intelligence to duplicate the feat. Who knows?
Jug Bomb by the Jolly Roger
Take a glass jug, and put 3 to 4 drops of gasoline into it. Then put
the cap on, and swish the gas around so the inner surface of the jug
is coated. Then add a few drops of potassium permanganate solution
into it and cap it. To blow it up, either throw it at something, or
roll it at something.
------------Jolly Roger
Fun at K-Mart by the Jolly Roger
Well, first off, one must realise the importance of K-Marts in
society today. First off, K-Marts provide things cheaper to those who
can't afford to shop at higher quality stores. Although, all I ever
see in there is minorities and Senior Citizens, and the poor people in
our city. Personally, I wouldn't be caught dead in there. But, once,
I did.
You see, once, after The Moon Roach and Havoc Chaos(Dear friends of
mine) and I were exploring such fun things as rooftops, we came along
a K-Mart. Amused, and cold for that matter, we wandered in. The
Tension mounts.
As we walked up to the entrance, we were nearly attacked by Youth
Groups selling cheap cookies, and wheelchair sticken people selling
American Flags. After laughing at these people, we entered. This is
where the real fun begins...
First, we wandered around the store, and turned on all the blue
lights we could find. That really distracts and confuses the
attendents...Fun to do...
The first neat thing, is to go to the section of the store where
they sell computers. Darkness engulf the earth the day they find Apple
Computers being sold there. Instead, lesser computers like the
laughable C-64 can be found there...Turn it on, and make sure
nobody's looking...Then, once in Basic, type...
]10 PRINT "Fuck the world! Anarchy Rules!" (or something to that
effect.)
]20 GOTO 10 and walk away.
Also, set the sample radios in the store to a santanic rock station,
and turn the radio off. Then, set the alarm for two minutes ahead of
the time displayed there. Turn the volume up all the way, and walk
away. After about two minutes, you will see the clerk feebly attempt
to turn the radio down or off. It's really neat to set ten or more
radios to different stations, and walk away.
One of my favorite things to do, is to get onto the intercom system
of the store. Easier typed then done. First, check out the garden
department. You say there's no attendent there? Good. Sneak
carefully over to the phone behind the cheap counter there, and pick
it up. Dial the number corrisponding to the item that says 'PAGE'...
And talk. You will note that your voice will echo all over the bowels
of K-Mart.
I would suggest announcing something on the lines of: "Anarchy
rules!!"
---------------Jolly Roger
Mace Substitute by the Jolly Roger
3 PARTS: Alcohol
1/2 PARTS: Iodine
1/2 PARTS: Salt
Or:
3 PARTS: Alcohol
1 PARTS: Iodized Salt (Mortons)
It's not actual mace, but it does a damn good job on the eyes...
--------------Jolly Roger
How to grow Marijuana courtesy of the Jolly Roger
MARIJUANA
Marijuana is a deciduous plant which grows from seeds. The fibrous section
of the plant was (has been replaced by synthetics) used to make rope.
The flowering tops, leaves, seeds, and resin of the plant is
used by just about everyone to get HIGH.
Normally, the vegetable parts of the plant are smoked to produce this
"high," but thay can also be eaten. The axtive ingredient in marijuana
resin is THC (tetahydrocannabinol). Marijuana contains from 1 - 4 per
cent THC (4 per cent must be considered GOOD dope).
Marijuana grows wild in many parts of the world, and is cultivated in
Mexice, Vietnam, Africa, Nepal, India, South America, etc.,etc. The
marijuana sold in the United States comes primarily from, yes, the
Uniited States.
It is estimated that at least 50 per cent of the grass on the streets
in America is homegrown. The next largest bunch comes actoss the
borders from Mexico, with smaller amounts filtering in from Panama,
occasionally South America, and occasinally, Africa.
Hashish is the pure resin of the marijuana plant, which is scraped from
the flowering tops of the plant and lumped together. Ganja is the
ground-up tops of the finest plants. (It is also the name given to any
sort of marijuana in Jamaica.)
Marijuana will deteriorate in about two years if exposed to light,
air or heat. It should always be stored in cool places.
Grass prices in the United States are a direct reflection of the laws
of supply and demand (and you thought that high school economics
would never be useful). A series of large border busts, a short growing
season, a bad crop, any number of things can drive the price of marijuana
up. Demand still seems to be on the increase in the U.S., so prices seldom
fall below last year's level.
Each year a small seasonal drought occurs, as last year's supply runs
low, and next year's crop is not up yet. Prices usually rase about
20 - 75 per cent during this time and then fall back to "normal."
Unquestionably, a large shortage of grass causes a percentage of smokers
to turn to harder drugs instead. For this reason, no grass control
program can ever be beneficial or "successful."
GROW IT!
There is one surefire way of avoiding high prices and the grass DT's:
Grow your own. This is not as difficult as some "authorities" on the
subject would make you believe. Marijuana is a weed, and a fairly
vivacious one at that, and it will grow almost in spite of you.
OUTDOORS
Contrary to propular belief, grass grows well in many place on the
North American continent. It will flourish even if the temperature does
not raise above 75 degrees.
The plants do need a minimum of eight hours of sunlight per day and
should be planted in late April/early May, BUT DEFINITELY, after the
last frost of the year.
Growing an outdoor, or "au naturel", crop has been the favored method
over the years, because grass seems to grow better without as much
attention when in its natural habitat.
Of course, an outdoors setting requires special precautions not encoun-
tered with an indoors crop; you must be able to avoid detection, both from
law enforcement freaks and common freaks, both of whom will take your
weed and probably use it. Of course, one will also arrest you. You must
also have access to the area to prepare the soil and harvest the crop.
There are two schools of thought about starting the seeds. One says you
should start the seedlings for about ten days in an indoor starter box
(see the indoor section) and then transplant. The other theory is that
you should just start them in the correct location. Fewer plants will
come up with this method, but there is no shock of transplant to
kill some of the seedlings halfway through.
The soil should be preprepared for the little devils by turning it
over a couple of times and adding about one cup of hydrated lime per
square yard of soil and a little bit (not too much, now) of good water
soluble nitrogen fertilizer. The soil should now be watered several
times and left to sit about one week.
The plants should be planted at least three feet apart, getting too
greedy and stacking them too close will result in stunted plants.
The plants like some water during their growing season, BUT not too
much. This is especially true around the roots, as too much water will
rot the root system.
Grass grows well in corn or hops, and these plants will help provide
some camouflage. It does not grow well with rye, spinach, or pepperweed.
It is probally a good idea to plant in many small, broken patches, as
people tend to notice patterns.
GENERAL GROWING INFO
Both the male and he female plant produce THC resin, although the male
is not as strong as the female. In a good crop, the male will still be
plenty smokable and should not be thrown away under any circumstances.
Marijuana can reach a hight of twenty feet (or would you rather wish on
a star) and obtain a diameter of 4 1/2 inches. If normal, it has a sex
ratio of about 1:1, but this can be altered in several ways.
The male plant dies in the 12th week of growing, the female will live
another 3 - 5 weeks to produce her younguns. Females can weigh twice as
much as males when they are mature.
Marijuana soil should compact when you squeeze it, but should also break
apart with a small pressure and absorb water well. A nice test
for either indoor or outdoor growing is to add a bunch of worms to the
soil, if they live and hang aroung, it is good soil, but if they don't,
well, change it. Worms also help keep the soil loose enough for the
plants to grow well.
SEEDS
To get good grass, you should start with the right seeds. A nice starting
point is to save the seeds form the best batch you have consumed. The
seeds should be virile, that is, they should not be grey and shiriveled
up, but green, meaty, and healthy appearing. A nice test is to drop the
seeds on a hot frying pan. If they "CRACK," they are probably good for
planting purposes.
The seeds should be soaked in distilled water overnight before planting.
BE SURE to plant in the ground with the pointy end UP. Plant about 1/2"
deep. Healthy seeds will sprout in about five days.
SPROUTING
The best all around sprouting method is probably to make a sprouting box
(as sold in nurseries) with a slated bottom or use paper cups with holes
punched in the bottoms. The sprouting soil should be a mixture of humus,
soil, and five sand with a bit of organic fertilizer and water mixed
in about one week before planting.
When ready to transplant, you must be sure and leave a ball of soil
around the roots of each plant. This whole ball is dropped into a
baseball-sized hold in the permanent soil.
If you are growing/transplanting indoors, you should use a green
safe light (purchased at nurseries) during the transplanting operation.
If you are transplanting outdoors, you should time it about two
hours befor sunset to avoid damage to the plant. Always wear cotton
gloves when handling the young plants.
After the plants are set in the hole, you should water them. It is also
a good idea to use a commercial transplant chemical (also purchased at
nurseries) to help then overcome the shock.
INDOOR GROWING
Indoor growing has many advantages, besides the apparent fact that it
is much harder to have your crop "found," you can control the ambient
conditions just exactly as you want them and get a guaranteed "good"
plant.
Plants grown indoors will not appear the same as their outdoor cousins.
They will be scrawnier appearing with a weak stems and may even require
you to tie them to a growing post to remain upright, BUT THEY WILL HAVE
AS MUCH OR MORE RESIN!
If growing in a room, you should put tar paper on the floors and then
buy sterilized bags of soil form a nursery. You will need about one
cubic foot of soil for eavh plant.
The plants will need about 150 ml. of water per plant/per week. They
will also need fresh air, so the room must be ventilated. (however,
the fresh air should contain NO TOBACCO smoke.)
At least eight hours of light a day must be provided. As you increase
the light, the plants grow faster and show more females/less males.
Sixteen hours of light per day seems to be the best combination, beyond
this makes little or no appreciable difference in the plant quality.
Another idea is to interrupt the night cycle with about one hour of
light. This gives you more females.
The walls of your growing room should be painted white or covered with
aluminum foil to reflect the light.
The lights themselves can be either bulbs of fluorescent. Figure about
75 watts per plant or one plant per two feet of flouresent tube.
The fluorescents are the best, but do not use "cool white" types. The
light sources should be an average of twenty inches from the
plant and NEVER closer than 14 inches. They may be mounted on a rack
and moved every few days as the plants grow.
The very best light sources are those made by Sylvania and others
especially for growing plants (such as the "gro lux" types).
HARVESTING AND DRYING
The male plants will be taller and have about five green or yellow sepals,
which will split open to fertilize the female plant with pollen.
The female plant is shorter and has a small pistillate flower, which
really doesn't look like a flower at all but rather a small bunch of
leaves in a cluster.
If you don't want any seeds, just good dope, you should pick the males
before they shed their pollen as the female will use some of her resin
to make the seeds.
After another three to five weeks, after the males are gone, the females
will begin to wither and die (from loneliness?), this is the time to pick.
In some nefarious Middle Eastren countries, farmers reportedly put their
beehives next to fiels of marijuana. The little devils collect the grass
pollen for their honey, which is supposed to contain a fair dosage
of THC.
The honey is then enjoyed by conventional methods or made into ambrosia.
If you want seeds - let the males shed his pollen then pick him. Let
the female go another month and pick her.
To cure the plants, they must be dried. On large crops, this is
accomplished by constructing a drying box or drying room.
You must have a heat source (such as an electric heater) which will make
the box/room each 130 degrees. The box/room must be ventilated
to carry off the water-vapor-laden air and replace it with fresh.
A good box can be constructed from an orange crate with fiberglass
insulated walls, vents in the tops, and screen shelves to hold the leaves.
There must be a baffle between the leaves and the heat source.
A quick cure for smaller amounts is to: cut the plant at the soil level
and wrap it in a cloth so as not to loose any leavs. Take out any seeds
by hand and store. Place all the leaves on a cookie sheet or aluminum
foil and put them in the middle sheld of the oven, which is set on "broil."
In a few seconds, the leaves will smoke and curl up, stir them around and
give another ten seconds before you take them out.
TO INCREASE THE GOOD STUFF
There are several tricks to increase the number of females, or the THC
content of plants:
You can make the plants mature in 36 days if you are in a hurry, by cutting
back on the light to about 14 hours, but the plants will not be as big.
You should gradually shorten the light cycle until you reach fourteen
hours.
You can stop any watering as the plants begin to bake the resin rise to
the flowers. This will increse the resin a bit.
You can use a sunlamp on the plants as they begin to develop flower stalks.
You can snip off the flower, right at the spot where it joins the plant,
and a new flower will form in a couple of weeks.
This can be repeated two or three times to get several times more flowers
than usual.
If the plants are sprayed with Ethrel early in their growing stage, they
will produce almost all female plants. This usually speeds up the flowering
also, it may happen in as little as two weeks.
You can employ a growth changer called colchicine. This is a bit hard to
get and expensive. (Should be ordered through a lab of some sort and
costs about $35 a gram.)
To use the colchicine, you should prepare your presoaking solution of
distilled water with about 0.10 per cent colchicine. This will cause
many of the seeds to die and not germinate, but the ones that do come
up will be polyploid plants. This is the accepted difference between
such strains as "gold" and normal grass, and yours will DEFINITELY
be superweed.
The problem here is that colchicine is a posion in larger quanities and
may be poisonous in the first generation of plants. Bill Frake, author
of CONNOISSEUR'S HANDBOOK OF MARIJUANA runs a very complete colchicine
treatment down and warns against smoking the first generation plants
(all succeeding generations will also be polyploid) bacause of this
poisonous quality.
However, the Medical Index shows colchicine being given in very small
quantities to people for treatment if various ailments. Although these
quantities are small, they would appear to be larger than any you could
recive form smoaking a seed-treated plant.
It would be a good idea to buy a copy of CONNOISSEUR'S, if you are planning
to attempt this, and read Mr. Drake's complete instructions.
Another still-experimental process to increase the resin it to pinch off
the leaf tips as soon as they appear from the time the plant is in the
seedling stage on through its entire life-span. This produces a distorted,
wrecked-looking plant which would be very difficuly to recognize as
marijuana. Of course, there is less substance to this plant, but such
wrecked creatures have been known to produve so much resin that it
crystallizes a strong hash all over the surface of the plant - might
be wise to try it on a plant or two and see what happens.
PLANT PROBLEM CHART
Always check the overall enviromental conditions prior to passing
judgment - soil aroung 7 pH or slightly less - plenty of water, light,
fresh air, loose soil, no water standing in pools.
SYMPTOM PROBABLY PROBLEM/CURE
Larger leaves turning yellow - Nitrogen dificiency - add
smaller leaves still green. nitrate of soda or
organic fertilizer.
Older leaves will curl at edges, Phosphorsus dificiency -
turn dark, possibaly with a purple add commercial phosphate.
cast.
Mature leaves develop a yellowish Magnesium dificiency -
cast to least veinal areas. add commercial fertilizer
with a magnesium content.
Mature leaves turn yellow and then Potassium dificiency -
become spotted with edge areas add muriate of potash.
turning dark grey.
Cracked stems, no healthy support Boron dificiency - add
tissue. any plant food containing
boron.
Small wrinkled leaves with Zinc dificiency - add
yelloish vein systems. commercial plant food
containing zinc.
Young leaves become deformed, Molybedum dificiency -
possibaly yellowing. use any plant food with a
bit of molydbenum in it.
EXTRA SECTION:
BAD WEED/GOOD WEED
Can you turn bad weed into good weed? Surprisingly enough, the answer
to this oft-asked inquiry is, yes!
Like most other things in life, the amount of good you are going
to do relates directly to how much effort you are going to put into it.
There are no instant, supermarket products which you can spray on Kansas
catnip and have wonderweed, but there are a number of simplified,
inexpensive processes (Gee, Mr. Wizard!) thich will enhance mediocre
grass somewhat, ant there are a couple of fairly involved processes
which will do up even almost-parsley weed into something worth writing
home about.
EASES
1. Place the dope in a container which allows air to enter in a restricted
fashion (such as a can with nail holes punched in its lid) and add a
bunch of dry ice, and the place the whold shebang in the freezer for a
few days. This process will add a certain amount of potency to the product,
however, this only works with dry ice, if you use normal, everyday
freezer ice, you will end up with a soggy mess...
2. Take a quantity of grass and dampen it, place in a baggie or another
socially acceptable container, and store it in a dark, dampish place
for a couple of weeks (burying it also seems to work). The grass will
develop a mold which tastes a bit harsh, a and burns a tiny bit funny,
but does increase the potency.
3. Expose the grass to the high intensity light of a sunlamp for a full
day or so. Personally, I don't feel that this is worth the effort, but
if you just spent $400 of your friend's money for this brick of
super-Colombian, right-from-the-President's-personal-stash,
and it turns out to be Missouri weed, and you're packing your bags to
leave town before the people arrive for their shares, well, you might
at least try it. Can't hurt.
4. Take the undisirable portions of our stash (stems, seeds, weak weed,
worms, etc.) and place them in a covered pot, with enough rubbing
alchol to cover everything.
Now CAREFULLY boil the mixture on an ELECTRIC stove or lab burner. DO
NOT USE GAS - the alchol is too flammable. After 45 minutes of heat,
remove the pot and strain the solids out, SAVING THE ALCOHOL.
Now, repeat the process with the same residuals, but fresh alchol.
When the second boil is over, remove the solids again, combine the two
quantities of alcohol and reboil until you have a syrupy mixture.
Now, this syrupy mixture will contain much of the THC formerly hidden
in the stems and such. One simply takes this syrup the throughly
combines it with the grass that one wishes to improve upon.
SPECIAL SECTION ON RELATED SUBJECT MARYGIN:
Marygin is an anagram of the words marijuana and gin, as in Eli Whitney.
It is a plastic tumbler which acts much like a commercial cottin gin.
One takes about one ounce of an harb and breaks it up. This is then placed
in the Marygin and the protuding knod is roatated. This action turns
the internal wheel, which separates the grass from the debris (seeds,
stems).
It does not pulberize the grass as screens have a habit of doing and is
easily washable.
Marygin is available from:
P.O. Box 5827
Tuscon, Arizona 85703
$5.00
GRASS
Edmund Scientific Company
555 Edscorp Building
Barrington, New Jersy 08007
Free Catalog is a wonder of good things for the potential grass
grower. They have an electric thermostat greenhouse for starting
plants for a mere $14.95.
Soil test kits for PH - $2.40
Al test - $9.95
Soil thermometer - $2.75
Lights which approzimate the true color balance of the sun and are
probably the most beneficial types available: 40 watt, 48 inch - 4 for
$15.75.
Indoor sun bulb, 75 or 150 watt - $5.75.
And, they have a natural growth regualtor for plants (Gibberellin) which
can change height, speed growth, and maturity, promote blossoming,
etc. Each plant reacts differently to treatment with Gibberellin...there's
no fun like experimenting - $2.00
SUGGESTED READING
THE CONNOISSEUR'S HANDBOOK OF MARIJUANA, Bill Drake
Straight Arrow Publishing - $3.50
625 Third Street
San Francisco, California
FLASH
P.O.Box 16098
San Fransicso, California 94116
Stocks a series of pamphlets on grass, dope manufacture, cooking.
Includes the Mary Jane Superweed series.
Match Head Bomb by the Jolly Roger
Simple safety match heads in a pipe, capped at both ends, make a
devestating bomb. It is set off with a regular fuse.
A plastic Baggie is put into the pipe before the heads go in to
prevent detonation by contact with the metal.
Cutting enough match heads to fill the pipe can be tedious work for
one but an evening's fun for the family if you can drag them away from
the TV.
----------------Jolly Roger
Part one of two
This NFO File was rendered by NFOmation.net
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Hello! Welcome to the Jolly Roger's Cookbook III! I hope that
this collection of text files has enough info to keep you hackers
busy for awhile (at least until the next update!). As I gather
information I will keep adding it and uploading it to my "home
base" bbs's in different cities with additional numbered files,
and an updated index that you can just replace the old one with.
Thanks for taking the time to read this file, by the way. There are
a few things that I want to say about the Cookbook.
1) If I ever find out that anyone has omitted my name from
anywhere in these files withoutmy expressed permission, then I
will immediately stop doing any updates and I will release your
name to as many boards that I can find, urging them to put you on
their Black List. I also, will FIND YOU! (I think you can see from
the knowledge base contained in this collection that I DO possess
the capability! You will wish it were the FEDS and not me!) In
other words, be careful who you give this collection to. Of,
course there are idiots (probably the same ones who write
viruses!) that will misuse this information and kill some people
or get themselves & you into a lot of trouble! So keep this
treasure chest buried and only dig it up for those that you can
TRUST! Also you would be screwing yourself, because I still have
all kinds of things that I can put in here for updates, and you will
NEVER see them if I quit updating because of some asshole. So
think about it. If you WANT the updates (info you would probably
have a helluva time finding elsewhere!), then STAY COOL with it.
2) I was going to encrypt these files and load/print them from
within an encrypted program. However, I have decided against that
for these reasons:
a) It would then be machine-exclusive
b) It would show that I don't trust you.
c) Only Atari ST users would ever see it.
So I decided on keeping it ASCII. ANY machine that can read ASCII
files can now read these.
3) Please do not use my handle to gain access to boards. you never
know where I might show up and I will have to find you and deal
with you if I ever see it. Don't make me do this.
4) By releasing this database I am taking a real chance on you
people. I sure as hell don't want MY house blown up with a paint or
Solidox bomb! And I am sure that you don't want yours blown up
either (or your credit cards used for tha matter). So I have to
stress again: BE FUCKING CAREFUL WHO YOU GIVE THIS TO!!
That is all for now. If I ever have to update this, it will just be
in the update archive as file 000.doc. Just replace the old one.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=Notes for Version 2.0=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Ok... here it is... long awaited v2.0.... what a bitch it was for me to
put this shit together. Hell, over 6 months to put the update shit
together. Anyway, response was cool, nobody fucked with the rulez above.
I am glad. This allows me to continue the updates. You should find it
worth the wait.
God, there is so much more to do. As you can probably see, this database
is getting quite huge. And I have not even begun to tap the resources I
have available to me. I can easily over the next year or so make this
thing grow to 1600k or more..... so as long as I DON'T find this on a
p/d bbs, and I DO see it being spread around the proper channels, as
LONG as you guys keep bugging me for an update, and finally, as long as
the rulez above are kept,I shall continue.
What you have in your disk drive right now is some of the most dangerous
knowledge ever unleashed on the computer underground. Use it wisely.
The really JUICY stuff will come in Cookbook v3.0, but let's see how
this one goes across, shall we? The Blotto box should be enough to see
how responsible you all are.....................
Have fun!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Enjoy this database! A lot more to come!!! -----------The Jolly Roger
note to all warring pirates and the so-called "groups"
(You know who you are...):
FUCK YOU! You are all assholes. Acting like fucking babies like trading
software was your fucking life or something. Like you have some big name
or something. Do you realize that nobody gives a flying fuck about you
in the real world? I have been a pirate for over 10 years, and have over
4000 ST programs, over 2000 IBM programs, over 2500 Macintosh programs,
and over 500 Amiga programs (& I do not even own an Amiga!).... and you
do not see me kissing ass on the bbs's, or making a deal out of someone
not "liking" me..... boo-fucking-hoo!! I really do not care. You see,
the difference between you and me is that I do this for fun. I see no
other reason to pursue a "hobby" but FOR fun. I hate the fucking
politics & shit. I give my stuff freely. It all comes back to me.
It just makes me sick when I am on the bbs's and I see these little baby
games about who did what, and who stole what loader, or re-crack, or
whatever. I AM AN original pirate. 1st generation. Not anything like you
baby-shit assholes. Excuse me but I had this boiling in me for a long
time. The ST world is so small that what little we do have we destroy
from within. And we blame Jack for it. Fuck, maybe that is the only
thing we agree on. Anyway, where is the hacking spirit? The giving? The
free will? Why all of the fucking ego's? It should be obvious by now
that I have no interest whatsoever in ego-tripping. You can like me or
hate me. But I will always be here. --------------Jolly Roger
*****************************************************************
******************** Notes for Version III! *********************
*****************************************************************
Ah..version III. Well, I never thought for a minute that version
II would turn out to be so popular! Well, I am proud to announce
version III, and can assure you that a version IV is in the works!
As a student, however, I cannot say when it will be ready...but
what the hell...it will be a long time, I am sure, before you run
out of "toys" to play with.
Lots of interesting new reading for you in this version! A Special
thanks to CREDITMAN, who lives in the UK and contributed an
excellent article on carding in the UK. It is great reading.
Now, I would like to say a few words to those who insist on
yanking my chain (or is it dick?) in the message bases here in the
U.S.: "Whatever, dudes!"
Now that was a few words, eh? Ok, I am debating on a new format
for Cookbook IV...something with easier access. Hell, this index
idea worked just fine when the cookbook was small, but now it is
getting quite large and the articles are getting quite
numerous...and--who knows? My laziness tells me to stick with it.
I just might do that!
Well, the files spilled over onto two disks, so I figured I would
include some ST-specific "goodies". They are in a file on disk B
called "Goodie.Bag" and contain a few rarities and a few
essentials. Some will find most interesting, most will find some
interesting, a few may find none interesting. Oh, well.
If anybody has any comments (there always is a few slags--take
your best shot!) then drop me a line in the usual places that one
can find me. If you do not know where those places are, then I am
sorry. It just wasn't meant to be. Ha Ha!
All who oppose me and my ideas and/or the group that I participate
in can bugger off. Sure, yeah, I steal a lot of things--I am a
pirate after all. but so do you, and don't forget it. It is
ridiculous to call a thief a thief when it is a thief doing the
accusing. Grow up. This Cookbook is done for no other reason but
to share with EVERYONE ELITE some of the underground and often
illegal as hell information that I have gathered, researched, and
labored to locate, type, and write/compose. At least give me
credit for that. Anyone whom I call asshole deserves it in my eyes
for only one reason: there is not ONE DAMN THING redeeming that I
can find to compliment them on!! For example, Automation slagged
me for the R.C.A Slag Show II, I turned around and told them to
piss off on that, and then said that their cd's are getting
better. What kind of "kid" (a 24 year old one) would do that
anyway? Certainly not the TOI, that's for sure! Oh, well, fuck it
anyways. We are all going to die in Iraq soon enough anyway....-
Enjoy and spread! Contribute if you can! Information should be
free (that's why I turned down an offer to publish portions of
this thing!)!!
----------------------Jolly Roger
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#####################################################################
Hello! Welcome to the Jolly Roger's Cookbook III! I hope that
this collection of text files has enough info to keep you hackers
busy for awhile (at least until the next update!). As I gather
information I will keep adding it and uploading it to my "home
base" bbs's in different cities with additional numbered files,
and an updated index that you can just replace the old one with.
Thanks for taking the time to read this file, by the way. There are
a few things that I want to say about the Cookbook.
1) If I ever find out that anyone has omitted my name from
anywhere in these files withoutmy expressed permission, then I
will immediately stop doing any updates and I will release your
name to as many boards that I can find, urging them to put you on
their Black List. I also, will FIND YOU! (I think you can see from
the knowledge base contained in this collection that I DO possess
the capability! You will wish it were the FEDS and not me!) In
other words, be careful who you give this collection to. Of,
course there are idiots (probably the same ones who write
viruses!) that will misuse this information and kill some people
or get themselves & you into a lot of trouble! So keep this
treasure chest buried and only dig it up for those that you can
TRUST! Also you would be screwing yourself, because I still have
all kinds of things that I can put in here for updates, and you will
NEVER see them if I quit updating because of some asshole. So
think about it. If you WANT the updates (info you would probably
have a helluva time finding elsewhere!), then STAY COOL with it.
2) I was going to encrypt these files and load/print them from
within an encrypted program. However, I have decided against that
for these reasons:
a) It would then be machine-exclusive
b) It would show that I don't trust you.
c) Only Atari ST users would ever see it.
So I decided on keeping it ASCII. ANY machine that can read ASCII
files can now read these.
3) Please do not use my handle to gain access to boards. you never
know where I might show up and I will have to find you and deal
with you if I ever see it. Don't make me do this.
4) By releasing this database I am taking a real chance on you
people. I sure as hell don't want MY house blown up with a paint or
Solidox bomb! And I am sure that you don't want yours blown up
either (or your credit cards used for tha matter). So I have to
stress again: BE FUCKING CAREFUL WHO YOU GIVE THIS TO!!
That is all for now. If I ever have to update this, it will just be
in the update archive as file 000.doc. Just replace the old one.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=Notes for Version 2.0=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Ok... here it is... long awaited v2.0.... what a bitch it was for me to
put this shit together. Hell, over 6 months to put the update shit
together. Anyway, response was cool, nobody fucked with the rulez above.
I am glad. This allows me to continue the updates. You should find it
worth the wait.
God, there is so much more to do. As you can probably see, this database
is getting quite huge. And I have not even begun to tap the resources I
have available to me. I can easily over the next year or so make this
thing grow to 1600k or more..... so as long as I DON'T find this on a
p/d bbs, and I DO see it being spread around the proper channels, as
LONG as you guys keep bugging me for an update, and finally, as long as
the rulez above are kept,I shall continue.
What you have in your disk drive right now is some of the most dangerous
knowledge ever unleashed on the computer underground. Use it wisely.
The really JUICY stuff will come in Cookbook v3.0, but let's see how
this one goes across, shall we? The Blotto box should be enough to see
how responsible you all are.....................
Have fun!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Enjoy this database! A lot more to come!!! -----------The Jolly Roger
note to all warring pirates and the so-called "groups"
(You know who you are...):
FUCK YOU! You are all assholes. Acting like fucking babies like trading
software was your fucking life or something. Like you have some big name
or something. Do you realize that nobody gives a flying fuck about you
in the real world? I have been a pirate for over 10 years, and have over
4000 ST programs, over 2000 IBM programs, over 2500 Macintosh programs,
and over 500 Amiga programs (& I do not even own an Amiga!).... and you
do not see me kissing ass on the bbs's, or making a deal out of someone
not "liking" me..... boo-fucking-hoo!! I really do not care. You see,
the difference between you and me is that I do this for fun. I see no
other reason to pursue a "hobby" but FOR fun. I hate the fucking
politics & shit. I give my stuff freely. It all comes back to me.
It just makes me sick when I am on the bbs's and I see these little baby
games about who did what, and who stole what loader, or re-crack, or
whatever. I AM AN original pirate. 1st generation. Not anything like you
baby-shit assholes. Excuse me but I had this boiling in me for a long
time. The ST world is so small that what little we do have we destroy
from within. And we blame Jack for it. Fuck, maybe that is the only
thing we agree on. Anyway, where is the hacking spirit? The giving? The
free will? Why all of the fucking ego's? It should be obvious by now
that I have no interest whatsoever in ego-tripping. You can like me or
hate me. But I will always be here. --------------Jolly Roger
*****************************************************************
******************** Notes for Version III! *********************
*****************************************************************
Ah..version III. Well, I never thought for a minute that version
II would turn out to be so popular! Well, I am proud to announce
version III, and can assure you that a version IV is in the works!
As a student, however, I cannot say when it will be ready...but
what the hell...it will be a long time, I am sure, before you run
out of "toys" to play with.
Lots of interesting new reading for you in this version! A Special
thanks to CREDITMAN, who lives in the UK and contributed an
excellent article on carding in the UK. It is great reading.
Now, I would like to say a few words to those who insist on
yanking my chain (or is it dick?) in the message bases here in the
U.S.: "Whatever, dudes!"
Now that was a few words, eh? Ok, I am debating on a new format
for Cookbook IV...something with easier access. Hell, this index
idea worked just fine when the cookbook was small, but now it is
getting quite large and the articles are getting quite
numerous...and--who knows? My laziness tells me to stick with it.
I just might do that!
Well, the files spilled over onto two disks, so I figured I would
include some ST-specific "goodies". They are in a file on disk B
called "Goodie.Bag" and contain a few rarities and a few
essentials. Some will find most interesting, most will find some
interesting, a few may find none interesting. Oh, well.
If anybody has any comments (there always is a few slags--take
your best shot!) then drop me a line in the usual places that one
can find me. If you do not know where those places are, then I am
sorry. It just wasn't meant to be. Ha Ha!
All who oppose me and my ideas and/or the group that I participate
in can bugger off. Sure, yeah, I steal a lot of things--I am a
pirate after all. but so do you, and don't forget it. It is
ridiculous to call a thief a thief when it is a thief doing the
accusing. Grow up. This Cookbook is done for no other reason but
to share with EVERYONE ELITE some of the underground and often
illegal as hell information that I have gathered, researched, and
labored to locate, type, and write/compose. At least give me
credit for that. Anyone whom I call asshole deserves it in my eyes
for only one reason: there is not ONE DAMN THING redeeming that I
can find to compliment them on!! For example, Automation slagged
me for the R.C.A Slag Show II, I turned around and told them to
piss off on that, and then said that their cd's are getting
better. What kind of "kid" (a 24 year old one) would do that
anyway? Certainly not the TOI, that's for sure! Oh, well, fuck it
anyways. We are all going to die in Iraq soon enough anyway....-
Enjoy and spread! Contribute if you can! Information should be
free (that's why I turned down an offer to publish portions of
this thing!)!!
----------------------Jolly Roger
Credit Card Fraud brought to you by The Jolly Roger
For most of you out there, money is hard to come by. Until now:
With the recent advent of plastic money (credit cards), it is
easy to use someone else's credit card to order the items you have
always desired in life. The stakes are high, but the payoff is
worth it.
Step One: Getting the credit card information
First off, you must obtain the crucial item: someone's credit
card number. The best way to get credit card numbers is to take
the blue carbons used in a credit card transaction at your local
department store. These can usually be found in the garbage can
next to the register, or for the more daring, in the garbage
dumpster behind the store. But, due to the large amount of credit
card fraud, many stores have opted to use a carbonless transaction
sheet, making things much more difficult. This is where your
phone comes in handy.
First, look up someone in the phone book, and obtain as much
information as possible about them. Then, during business hours,
call in a very convincing voice - "Hello, this is John Doe from
the Visa Credit Card Fraud Investigations Department. We have
been informed that your credit card may have been used for
fraudulent purposes, so will you please read off the numbers
appearing on your Visa card for verification." Of course, use
your imagination! Believe it or not, many people will fall for
this ploy and give out their credit information.
Now, assuming that you have your victim's credit card number, you
should be able to decipher the information given.
Step Two: Recognizing information from carbon copies
Card examples:
XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2
JOE SHMOE
XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2
JOE SHMOE
Explanation:
MM/Y1 is the date the card was issued, and MM/Y2 is the
expiration date. The American Express Gold Card has numbers
XXXXXX XXXXXXXX XXXXXXXX, and is covered for up to $5000.00,
even if the card holder is broke.
[Mastercard]
5XXX XXXX XXXX XXXX
XXXX AAA DD-MM-YY MM/YY
JOE SHMOE
Explanation:
XXXX in the second row may be asked for during the ordering
process. The first date is when the card was new, and the
second is when the card expires. The most frequent number
combination used is 5424 1800 XXXX XXXX. There are many of
these cards in circulation, but many of these are on wanted
lists, so check these first.
[Visa]
4XXX XXX(X) XXX(X) XXX(X)
MM/YY MM/YY*VISA
JOE SHMOE
Explanation:
Visa is the most abundant card, and is accepted almost
everywhere. The "*VISA" is sometimes replaced with "BWG", or
followed with a special code. These codes are as follows:
[1] MM/YY*VISA V - Preferred Card
[2] MM/YY*VISA CV - Classic Card
[3] MM/YY*VISA PV - Premier Card
Preferred Cards are backed with money, and are much safer to
use. Classic Cards are newer, harder to reproduce cards with
decent backing. Premier Cards are Classic Cards with Preferred
coverage. Common numbers are 4448 020 XXX XXX, 4254 5123 6000
XXXX, and 4254 5123 8500 XXXX. Any 4712 1250 XXXX XXXX cards
are IBM Credit Union cards, and are risky to use, although
they are usually covered for large purchases.
Step Three: Testing credit
You should now have a Visa, Mastercard, or American Express
credit card number, with the victim's address, zip code, and phone
number. By the way, if you have problems getting the address,
most phone companies offer the Address Tracking Service, which is
a special number you call that will give you an address from a
phone number, at a nominal charge. Now you need to check the
balance of credit on the credit card (to make sure you don't run
out of money), and you must also make sure that the card isn't
stolen. To do this you must obtain a phone number that
businesses use to check out credit cards during purchases. If you
go to a department store, watch the cashier when someone makes a
credit card purchase. He/she will usually call a phone number,
give the credit information, and then give what is called a
"Merchant Number". These numbers are usually written down on or
around the register. It is easy to either find these numbers and
copy them, or to wait until they call one in. Watch what they
dial and wait for the 8 digit (usually) merchant number. Once you
call the number, in a calm voice, read off the account number,
merchant number, amount, and expiration date. The credit bureau
will tell you if it is ok, and will give you an authorization
number. Pretend you are writing this number down, and repeat it
back to them to check it. Ignore this number completely, for it
serves no real purpose. However, once you do this, the bank
removes dollars equal to what you told them, because the card was
supposedly used to make a purchase. Sometimes you can trick the
operator by telling her the customer changed his mind and decided
not to charge it. Of course, some will not allow this. Remember
at all times that you are supposed to be a store clerk calling to
check out the card for a purchase. Act like you are talking with
a customer when he/she "cancels".
Step Four: The drop
Once the cards are cleared, you must find a place to have the
package sent. NEVER use a drop more than once. The following are
typical drop sites:
[1] An empty house
An empty house makes an excellent place to send things. Send the
package UPS, and leave a note on the door saying, "UPS. I work
days, 8 to 6. Could you please leave the package on the back door
step?" You can find dozens of houses from a real estate agent by
telling them you want to look around for a house. Ask for a list
of twenty houses for sale, and tell them you will check out the
area. Do so, until you find one that suits your needs.
[2] Rent A Spot
U-Haul sometimes rents spaces where you can have packages sent and
signed for. End your space when the package arrives.
[3] People's houses
Find someone you do not know, and have the package sent there.
Call ahead saying that "I called the store and they sent the
package to the wrong address. It was already sent, but can you
keep it there for me?" This is a very reliable way if you keep
calm when talking to the people.
Do NOT try post office boxes. Most of the time, UPS will not
deliver to a post office box, and many people have been caught in
the past attempting to use a post office box. Also, when you have
determined a drop site, keep an eye on it for suspicious
characters and cars that have not been there before.
Step Five: Making the transaction
You should now have a reliable credit card number with all the
necessary billing information, and a good drop site.
The best place to order from is catalogues, and mail order houses.
It is in your best interest to place the phone call from a pay
phone, especially if it is a 1-800 number. Now, when you call,
don't try to disguise your voice, thinking you will trick the
salesperson into believing you are an adult. These folks are
trained to detect this, so your best bet is to order in your own
voice. They will ask for the following: name, name as it appears
on card, phone number, billing address, expiration date, method of
shipping, and product. Ask if they offer UPS Red shipping (next
day arrival), because it gives them less time to research an
order. If you are using American Express, you might have a bit of
m problem shipping to an address other than the billing address.
Also, if the salesperson starts to ask questions, do NOT hang up.
Simply talk your way out of the situation, so you won't encourage
investigation on the order.
If everything goes right, you should have the product, free of
charge. Insurance picks up the tab, and no one is any wiser. Be
careful, and try not to order anything over $500. In some states,
UPS requires a signature for anything over $200, not to mention
that anything over $200 is defined as grand theft, as well as
credit fraud. Get caught doing this, and you will bite it for a
couple of years. Good luck!
Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach by The Jolly Roger
Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound,
and has been used in the past as the main explosive filler in
grenades, land mines, and mortar rounds by such countries as
France and Germany. Common household bleach contains a small
amount of potassium chlorate, which can be extracted by the
procedure that follows.
First off, you must obtain:
[1] A heat source (hot plate, stove, etc.)
[2] A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer
[3] A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh
chemicals)
[4] Potassium chloride (sold as a salt substitute at health and
nutrition stores)
Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin
heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of
potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated.
Constantly check the solution being heated with the hydrometer,
and boil until you get a reading of 1.3. If using a battery
hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL charge.
Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it
is between room temperature and 0 degrees Celcius. Filter out the
crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again
and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals.
Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with
distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100
milliliters distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils
and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that
form upon cooling. This process of purification is called
"fractional crystalization". These crystals should be relatively
pure potassium chlorate.
Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently to
drive off all moisture.
Now, melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax. Dissolve this
in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on
90 parts potassium chlorate (the powdered crystals from above)
into a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium
chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all gasoline to evaporate.
Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place. Avoid
friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phosphorous compounds. This
explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3
grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water proof. These block
type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. Also, a
blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used.
The presence of the afore mentioned compounds (sulfur, sulfides,
etc.) results in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive
and will possibly decompose explosively while in storage. You
should never store homemade explosives, and you must use EXTREME
caution at all times while performing the processes in this
article.
You may obtain a catalog of other subject of this nature by
writing:
Information Publishing Co.
Box 10042
Odessa, Texas 79762
Picking Master Locks by The Jolly Roger
Have you ever tried to impress someone by picking one of those
Master combination locks and failed?
The Master lock company made their older combination locks with a
protection scheme. If you pull the handle too hard, the knob will
not turn. That was their biggest mistake.
The first number:
Get out any of the Master locks so you know what is going on.
While pulling on the clasp (part that springs open when you get
the combination right), turn the knob to the left until it will
not move any more, and add five to the number you reach. You now
have the first number of the combination.
The second number:
Spin the dial around a couple of times, then go to the first
number you got. Turn the dial to the right, bypassing the first
number once. When you have bypassed the first number, start
pulling on the clasp and turning the knob. The knob will
eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove,
pull the clasp and turn the knob. If the knob is loose, go to the
next groove, if the knob is stiff, you have the second number of
the combination.
The third number:
After getting the second number, spin the dial, then enter the two
numbers. Slowly spin the dial to the right, and at each number,
pull on the clasp. The lock will eventually open if you did the
process right.
This method of opening Master locks only works on older models.
Someone informed Master of their mistake, and they employed a new
mechanism that is foolproof (for now).
The Arts of Lockpicking I courtesy of The Jolly Roger
Lockpicking I: Cars and assorted other locks
While the basic themes of lockpicking and uninvited entry have not
changed much in the last few years, some modern devices and
techniques have appeared on the scene.
Automobiles:
Many older automobiles can still be opened with a Slim Jim type of
opener (these and other auto locksmithing techniques are covered
fully in the book "In the Still of the Night", by John Russell
III); however, many car manufacturers have built cases over the
lock mechanism, or have moved the lock mechanism so the Slim Jim
will not work. So:
American Locksmith Service
P.O. Box 26
Culver City, CA 90230
ALS offers a new and improved Slim Jim that is 30 inches long and
3/4 inches wide, so it will both reach and slip through the new
car lock covers (inside the door). Price is $5.75 plus $2.00
postage and handling.
Cars manufactured by General Motors have always been a bane to
people who needed to open them, because the sidebar locking unit
they employ is very difficult to pick. To further complicate
matters, the new GM cars employ metal shields to make the use of a
Slim Jim type instrument very difficult. So:
Lock Technology Corporation
685 Main St.
New Rochelle, NY 10801
LTC offers a cute little tool which will easily remove the lock
cylinder without harm to the vehicle, and will allow you to enter
and/or start the vehicle. The GMC-40 sells for $56.00 plus $2.00
for postage and handling.
The best general automobile opening kit is probably a set of
lockout tools offered by:
Steck MFG Corporation
1319 W. Stewart St.
Dayton, OH 45408
For $29.95 one can purchase a complete set of six carbon lockout
tools that will open more than 95% of all the cars around.
Kwickset locks have become quite popular as one step security
locks for many types of buildings. They are a bit harder to pick
and offer a higher degree of security than a normal builder
installed door lock. So:
A MFG
1151 Wallace St.
Massilon, OH 44646
Price is $11.95. Kwickset locks can handily be disassembled and
the door opened without harm to either the lock or the door by
using the above mentioned Kwick Out tool.
If you are too lazy to pick auto locks:
Veehof Supply
Box 361
Storm Lake, IO 50588
VS sells tryout keys for most cars (tryout keys are used since
there is no one master key for any one make of car, but there are
group type masters (a.k.a. tryout keys). Prices average about
$20.00 a set.
Updated Lockpicking:
For years, there have been a number of pick attack procedures for
most pin and tumbler lock systems. In reverse order of ease they
are as follows:
Normal Picking: Using a pick set to align the pins, one by one,
until the shear line is set and the lock opens.
Racking: This method uses picks that are constructed with a
series of bumps, or diamond shape notches. These picks
are "raked" (i.e. run over all the pins at one time).
With luck, the pins will raise in the open position and
stay there. Raking, if successful, can be much less of
an effort than standard picking.
Lock Aid Gun: This gun shaped device was invented a number of
years ago and has found application with many
locksmiths and security personnel. Basically, a
needle shaped pick is inserted in the snout of the
"gun", and the "trigger" is pulled. This action
snaps the pick up and down strongly. If the tip is
slipped under the pins, they will also be snapped
up and down strongly. With a bit of luck they will
strike each other and separate at the shear line
for a split second. When this happens the lock
will open. The lock aid gun is not 100%
successful, but when it does work, the results are
very dramatic. You can sometimes open the lock
with one snap of the trigger.
Vibrator: Some crafty people have mounted a needle pick into an
electric toothbrush power unit. This vibrating effect
will sometimes open pin tumbler locks -- instantly.
There is now another method to open pin and wafer locks in a very
short time. Although it resembles a toothbrush pick in
appearance, it is actually an electronic device. I am speaking of
the Cobra pick that is designed and sold by:
Fed Corporation
P.O. Box 569
Scottsdale, AR 85252
The Cobra uses two nine volt batteries, teflon bearings (for less
noise), and a cam roller. It comes with three picks (for
different types of locks) and works both in America and overseas,
on pin or wafer locks. The Cobra will open group one locks
(common door locks) in three to seven seconds with no damage, in
the hands of an experienced locksmith. It can take a few seconds
more or up to a half a minute for someone with no experience at
all. It will also open group two locks (including government,
high security, and medecos), although this can take a short time
longer. It will not open GM sidear locks, although a device is
about to be introduced to fill that gap. How much for this toy
that will open most locks in seven seconds?
$235.00 plus $4.00 shipping and handling.
For you hard core safe crackers, FC also sells the MI-6 that will
open most safes at a cost of $10,000 for the three wheel attack
model, and $10,500 for the four wheel model. It comes in a sturdy
aluminum carrying case with monitor, disk drive and software.
If none of these safe and sane ideas appeal to you, you can always
fall back on the magic thermal lance...
The thermal lance is a rather crude instrument constructed from
3/8 inch hollow magnesium rods. Each tube comes in a 10 foot
length, but can be cut down if desired. Each one is threaded on
one end. To use the lance, you screw the tube together with a
matted regulator (like a welding outfit uses) and hook up an
oxygen tank. Then oxygen is turned on and the rod is lit with a
standard welding ignitor. The device produces an incredible
amount of heat. It is used for cutting up concrete blocks or even
rocks. An active lance will go through a foot of steel in a few
seconds. The lance is also known as a burning bar, and is
available from:
C.O.L. MFG
7748 W. Addison
Chicago, IL 60634
The Arts of Lockpicking II courtesy of The Jolly Roger
So you want to be a criminal. Well, if you want to be like James
Bond and open a lock in fifteen seconds, then go to Hollywood,
because that is the only place you are ever going to do it. Even
experienced locksmiths can spend five to ten minutes on a lock if
they are unlucky. If you are wanting extremely quick access, look
elsewhere. The following instructions will pertain mostly to the
"lock in knob" type lock, since it is the easiest to pick.
First of all, you need a pick set. If you know a locksmith, get
him to make you a set. This will be the best possible set for you
to use. If you find a locksmith unwilling to supply a set, don't
give up hope. It is possible to make your own, if you have access
to a grinder (you can use a file, but it takes forever).
The thing you need is an allen wrench set (very small). These
should be small enough to fit into the keyhole slot. Now, bend
the long end of the allen wrench at a slight angle (not 90
degrees). Now, take your pick to a grinder or a file, and smooth
the end until it is rounded so it won't hang inside the lock.
Test your tool out on doorknobs at your house to see if it will
slide in and out smoothly. Now, this is where the screwdriver
comes in. It must be small enough for it and your pick to be used
in the same lock at the same time, one above the other. In the
coming instructions, please refer to this chart of the interior of
a lock:
______________________________
\ K
| | | | | | / E
| | | | \ Y [|] Upper tumbler pin
^ ^ / H [^] Lower tumbler pin
^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ \ O [-] Cylinder wall
/ L (This is a greatly simplified
\ E drawing)
______________________________/
The object is to press the pin up so that the space between the
upper pin and the lower pin is level with the cylinder wall. Now,
if you push a pin up, it's tendency is to fall back down, right?
That is where the screwdriver comes in. Insert the screwdriver
into the slot and turn. This tension will keep the "solved" pins
from falling back down. Now, work from the back of the lock to
the front, and when you are through, there will be a click, the
screwdriver will turn freely, and the door will open.
Do not get discouraged on your first try! It will probably take
you about twenty to thirty minutes your first time. After that,
you will quickly improve with practice.
Solidox Bombs by The Jolly Roger
Most people are not aware that a volatile, extremely explosive
chemical can be bought over the counter: Solidox.
Solidox comes in an aluminum can containing 6 grey sticks, and can
be bought at Kmart, and various hardware supply shops for around
$7.00. Solidox is used in welding applications as an oxidizing
agent for the hot flame needed to melt metal. The most active
ingredient in Solidox is potassium chlorate, a filler used in many
military applications in the WWII era.
Since Solidox is literally what the name says: SOLID OXygen, you
must have an energy source for an explosion. The most common and
readily available energy source is common household sugar, or
sucrose. In theory, glucose would be the purest energy source,
but it is hard to find a solid supply of glucose.
Making the mixture:
[1] Open the can of Solidox, and remove all 6 sticks. One by
one, grind up each of the sticks (preferably with a mortar
and pestle) into the finest powder possible.
[2] The ratio for mixing the sugar with the Solidox is 1:1, so
weigh the Solidox powder, and grind up the equivalent amount
of sugar.
[3] Mix equivalent amounts of Solidox powder, and sugar in a 1:1
ratio.
It is just that simple! You now have an extremely powerful
substance that can be used in a variety of applications. A word
of caution: be EXTREMELY careful in the entire process. Avoid
friction, heat, and flame. A few years back, a teenager I knew
blew 4 fingers off while trying to make a pipe bomb with Solidox.
You have been warned!
High Tech Revenge: The Beigebox rev.2 by The Jolly Roger
-------------Introduction-------------
Have you ever wanted a lineman's handset? Surely every phreak has at
least once considered the phun that he could have with one. After searching
unlocked phone company trucks for months, we had an idea. We could build
one. We did, and named it the "Beige Box" simply because that is the color
of ours.
The beigebox is simply a consumer lineman's handset, which is a
phone that can be attached to the outside of a person's house. To
fabricate a beigebox, follow along.
---------Construction and Use---------
The construction is very simple. First you must understand the concept of
the device. In a modular jack, there are four wires. These are red, green,
yellow, and black. For a single line telephone, however, only two matter:
the red (ring) and green (tip). The yellow and the black are not neccessary
for this project. A lineman's handset has two clips on it: the ring and
the tip. Take a modular jack and look at the bottom of it's casing. There
should be a grey jack with four wires (red, green, yellow & black)
leading out of it. To the end of the red wire attach a red aligator clip.
To the end of the green wire attatch a green aligator clip. The yellow
and black wires can be removed, although I would only set them aside so
that you can use the modular jack in future projects. Now insert your
telephone's modular plug into the modular jack. That's it. This particular
model is nice because it is can be easily made, is inexpensive, uses
common parts that are readily available, is small, is lightweight,
and does not require the destruction of a phone.
------------Beige Box Uses------------
There are many uses for a Beige Box. However, before you can use it,
you must know how to attach it to the output device. This device can be
of any of Bell switching apparatus that include germinal sets (i.e.
remote switching centers, bridgin heads, cans, etc.). To open most Bell
Telephone switching apparatus, you must have a 7/16 inch hex driver
(or a good pair of needle nose pliers work also).
This piece of equipment can be picked up at your local hardware store.
With your hex driver (or pliers), turn the security bolt(s) approximately
1/8 of an inch counter-clockwise and open. If your output device is locked,
then you must have some knowledge of destroying and/or picking locks.
However, we have never encountered a locked output device. Once you have
opened your output device, you should see a mass of wires connected to
terminals. On most output devices, the terminals should be labeled "T"
(Tip -- if not labeled, it is usually on the left) and "R" (Ring -- if
not labeled, usually on the right).
Remember: Ring - red - right. The "Three R's" -- a simple way to
remember which is which. Now you must attach all the red alligator clip
(Ring) to the "R" (Ring) terminal.
Attach the green alligator clip (Tip) to the "T" (Tip) terminal.
Note: If instead of a dial tone you hear nothing, adjust the alligator
clips so that they are not touching each other terminals. Also make sure
they are firmly attached. By this time you should hear a dial tone.
Dial ANI to find out the number you are using (you wouldn't want to use
your own). Here are some practicle aplications:
> Eavesdropping
> Long distance, static free free fone calls to phriends
> Dialing direct to Alliance Teleconferencing (also no static)
> Phucking people over
> Bothering the operator at little risk to yourself
> Blue Boxing with greatly reduced chance of getting caught
> Anything at all you want, since you are on an extension of that line.
Eavesdropping
-------------
To be most effective, first attach the Beige Box then your phone. This
eliminates the static caused by connecting the box, therefore
reducing the potential suspicion of your victim. When eavesdropping,
it is allways best to be neither seen nor heard. If you hear someone
dialing out, do not panic; but rather hang up, wait, and pick up the
receiver again. The person will either have hung up or tried to complete
their call again. If the latter is true, then listen in, and perhaps you
will find information worthy of blackmail! If you would like to know who
you are listening to, after dialing ANI, pull a CN/A on the number.
Dialing Long Distance
---------------------
This section is self explanitory, but don't forget to dial a "1" before
the NPA.
Dialing Direct to Aliance Teleconferencing
------------------------------------------
Simply dial 0-700-456-1000 and you will get instructions from there.
I prefer this method over PBX's, since PBX's often have poor reception
and are more dificult to come by.
Phucking People Over
--------------------
This is a very large topic of discussion. Just by using the other topics
described, you can create a large phone bill for the person (they will
not have to pay for it, but it will be a big hassle for them). In addition,
since you are an extension of the person's line, you can leave your
phone off the hook, and they will not be able to make or receive calls.
This can be extremely nasty because no one would expect the cause
of the problem.
Bothering the Operator
----------------------
This is also self explanitary and can provide hours of entertainment.
Simply ask her things that are offensive or you would not like traced
to your line. This also corresponds to the previously described section,
Phucking People Over. After all, guess who's line it gets traced to?
He he he...
Blue Boxing
-----------
See a file on Blue Boxing for more details. This is an especially nice
feature if you live in an ESS-equiped prefix, since the calls are, once
again, not traced to your line...
---POTENTIAL RISKS OF BEIGE BOXING----
Overuse of the Beige Box may cause suspicians within the Gestapo,
and result in legal problems. Therefor, I would recomend you:
> Choose a secluded spot to do your Beige Boxing,
> Use more than one output device
> Keep a low profile (i.e., do not post under your real
name on a public BBS concering your occomplishments)
> In order to make sure the enemy has not been inside your output
device, I recomend you place a piece of transparent tape over
the opening of your output device. Therefor, if it is
opened in your abscence, the tapqe will be displaced and
you will be aware of the fact that someone has intruded
on your teritory.
Now, imagine the possibilities: a $2000 dollar phone bill for
that special person, 976 numbers galore, even harassing the
operator at no risk to you! Think of it as walking into an
enemies house, and using their phone to your heart's content.
---------Jolly Roger
How to make a CO2 bomb by the Jolly Roger
You will have to use up the cartridge first by either shooting it
or whatever. With a nail, force a hole bigger so as to allow the
powder and wick to fit in easily. Fill the cartridge with black
powder and pack it in there real good by tapping the bottom of the
cartridge on a hard surface (I said TAP not SLAM!). Insert a fuse.
I recommend a good water-proof cannon fuse, or an m-80 type fuse,
but firecracker fuses work, if you can run like a black man runs
from the cops after raping a white girl.) Now, light it and run
like hell! It does wonders for a row of mailboxes (like the ones
in apartment complexes), a car (place under the gas tank), a
picture window (place on window sill), a phone booth (place right
under the phone), or any other devious place. This thing throws
shrapnel, and can make quit a mess!! -Jolly Roger-
Thermite II... or A better way to make Thermite by Jolly Roger
Thermite is nasty shit. Here is a good and easy way to make it.
The first step is to get some iron-oxide (which is RUST!). Here is
a good way to make large quantities in a short time:
- Get a DC convertor like the one used on a train set. Cut the
connector off, seperate the wires, and strip them both.
- Now you need a jar of water with a tablespoon or so of sodium
chloride (which is SALT!) added to it. This makes the water
conductive.
- Now insert both wires into the mixture (I am assuming you
plugged the convertor in...) and let them sit for five minutes.
One of them will start bubbling more than the other. This is the
POSITIVE(+) wire. If you do not do this test right, the final
product will be the opposite (chemically) of rust, which is RUST
ACID. You have no use for this here (although it IS useful!).
- Anyway, put the nail tied to the positive wire into the jar. Now
put the negative wire in the other end. Now let it sit overnight
and in the morning scrape the rust off of the nail & repeat until
you got a bunch of rust on the bottom of the glass. Be generous
with your rust collection. If you are going through the trouble of
making thermite, you might as well make a lot, right?
- Now remove the excess water and pour the crusty solution onto a
cookie sheet. Dry it in the sun for a few hours, or inside
overnight. It should be an orange-brown color (although I have
seen it in many different colors! Sometimes the color gets fucked
up, what can I say... but it is still iron oxide!)
- Crush the rust into a fine powder and heat it in a cast-iron pot
until it is red. Now mix the pure iron oxide with pure alluminum
filinos which can be bought or filed down by hand from an aluminum
tube or bar. The ratio or iron oxide to aluminum is 8 grams to 3
grams.
- Congrats! You have just made THERMITE! Now, to light it...
- Thermite requires a LOT of heat (more than a blow torch!) to
ignite. However, a magnesium ribbon (which is sorta hard to find..
call around) will do the trick. It takes the heat from the
burning magnesium to light the thermite.
- Now when you see your victim's car, pour a fifty-cent sized pile
onto his hood, stick the ribbon in it, and light the ribbon with
the blow torch. Now chuckle as you watch it burn through the hood,
the block, the axle, and the pavement. BE CAREFUL! The ideal
mixtures can vaporize CARBON STEEL! Another idea is to use
thermite to get into pay phone cash boxes. HAVE FUN!! -Jolly Roger-
Touch Explosives by the Jolly Roger
This is sort of a mild explosive, but it can be quite dangerous in
large quantities. To make touch explosive (such as that found in a
snap-n-pop, but more powerful), use this recipe:
- Mix iodine crystals into ammonia until the iodine crystals will
not dissolve into the ammonia anymore. Pour off the excess ammonia
and dry out the crystals on a baking sheet the same way as you
dried the thermite (in other words, just let it sit overnight!).
- Be careful now because these crystals are now your touch
explosive. Carefully wrap a bunch in paper (I mean carefully!
Friction sets 'em off!) and throw them around.. pretty loud, huh?
They are fun to put on someone's chair. Add a small fish sinker to
them and they can be thrown a long distance (good for crowds,
football games, concerts, etc.) Have fun! -Jolly Roger-
Letter Bombs by The Jolly Roger
- You will first have to make a mild version of thermite. Use my
recipe, but substitute iron fillings for rust.
- Mix the iron with aluminum fillings in a ratio of 75% aluminum
to 25% iron. This mixture will burn violently in a closed space
(such as an envelope). This bring us to our next ingredient...
- Go to the post office and buy an insulated (padded) envelope.
You know, the type that is double layered... Seperate the layers
and place the mild thermite in the main section, where the letter
would go. Then place magnesium powder in the outer layer. There is
your bomb!!
- Now to light it... this is the tricky part and hard to explain.
Just keep experimenting until you get something that works. The
fuse is just that touch explosive I have told you about in another
one of my anarchy files. You might want to wrap it like a long
cigarette and then place it at the top of the envelope in the
outer layer (on top of the powdered magnesium). When the touch
explosive is torn or even squeezed hard it will ignite the
powdered magnesium (sort of a flash light) and then it will burn
the mild thermite. If the thermite didn't blow up, it would at
least burn the fuck out of your enemy (it does wonders on human
flesh!).
NOW that is REVENGE! -Jolly Roger-
Paint Bombs by The Jolly Roger
To make a pain bomb you simply need a metal pain can with a
refastenable lid, a nice bright color paint (green, pink, purple,
or some gross color is perfect!), and a quantity of dry ice. Place
the paint in the can and then drop the dry ice in. Quicky place
the top on and then run like hell! With some testing you can time
this to a science. It depends on the ratio of dry ice to paint to
the size of the can to how full it is. If you are really pissed
off at someone, you could place it on their doorstep, knock on the
door, and then run!! Paint will fly all over the place HAHAHA!!
-Jolly Roger-
Ways to send a car to Hell by The Jolly Roger
There are 1001 ways to destroy a car but I am going to cover only
the ones that are the most fun (for you), the most destructive
(for them), and the hardest to trace (for the cops).
- Place thermite on the hood, light it, and watch it burn all the
way through the pavement!
- Tape a CO2 bomb to the hood, axel, gas tank, wheel, muffler,
etc.)
- Put a tampon, dirt, sugar (this on is good!), a ping pong ball,
or just about anything that will dissolve in the gas tank.
- Put potatoes, rocks, banannas, or anything that will fit, into
the tailpipe. Use a broom handle to stuff 'em up into the
tailpipe.
- Put a long rag into the gas tank and light it...
- Steal a key, copy it, replace it, and then steal the stereo.
- Break into the car. Cut a thin metal ruler into a shape like
this:
----
| |
| |
| |
| <
----
Slide it into the outside window and keep pulling it back up until
you catch the lock cable which should unlock the door. This device
is also called a SLIM JIM. Now get the stereo, equalizer, radar
detector, etc. Now destroy the inside. (A sharp knife does wonders
on the seats!)
Have Fun! -Jolly Roger-
Do ya hate school? by The Jolly Roger
- One of my favorites for getting out of a class or two is to call
in a bomb threat. Tell 'em that it is in a locker. Then they have
to check them all, whilst you can slip away for an hour or two.
You can even place a fake bomb (in any locker but YOURS!). They
might cancel school for a week while they investigate (of course,
you will probably have to make it up in the summer...).
- Get some pure potassium or pure sodium, put it in a capsule, and
flush it down the toilet (smells awful! Stinks up the whole school!).
- Use a smoke grenade in the hallway.
- Steal the computer passwords & keys. Or steal the 80 column cards
inside if they are (gag) IBM.
- Make friends with student assistants and have them change your
grades when the teachers hand in their bubble sheets for the report
cards.
- Spit your gum out on the carpet in the library or whatever and
grind it into the carpet. Watch the janitors cry!
- Draw on lockers or spraypaint on the building that the principal
is a fascist.
- Stick a potato in the tailpipe of the principal's car.
- USE YOUR IMAGINATION! -Jolly Roger-
Phone related vandalism by the Jolly Roger
If you live where there are underground lines then you will be
able to ruin someone's phone life very easily. All you must do is
go to their house and find the green junction box that interfaces
their line (and possibly some others in the neighborhood) with the
major lines. These can be found just about anywhere but they are
usually underneath the nearest phone pole. Take a socket wrench
and loosen the nut on the right. Then just take clippers or a
sledge hammer or a bomb and destroy the insides and pull up their
phone cable. Now cut it into segments so it can't be fixed but
must be replaced (There is a week's worth of work for 'em!!)
-Jolly Roger-
Highway radar jamming by The Jolly Roger
Most drivers wanting to make better time on the open road will
invest in one of those expensive radar detectors. However, this
device will not work against a gun type radar unit in which the
radar signal is not present until the cop has your car in his
sights and pulls the trigger. Then it is TOO LATE for you to slow
down. A better method is to continuously jam any signal with a
radar signal of your own. I have tested this idea with the
cooperation of a local cop and found that his unit reads random
numbers when my car approached him. It is suprisingly easy to make
a low power radar transmitter. A nifty little semiconductor called
a Gunn Diode will generate microwaves when supplied with the 5 to
10 volt DC and enclosed in the correct size cavity (resonater). An
8 to 3 terminal regulator can be used to get this voltage from a
car's 12v system. However, the correct construction and tuning of
the cavity is difficult without good microwave measurement
equipment. Police radars commonly operate on the K band at 22 ghz.
Or more often on the X band at 10.525 ghz. most microwave intruder
alarms and motion detectors (mounted over automatic doors in
supermarkets & banks, etc.) contain a Gunn type
transmitter/receiver combination that transmits about 10 kilowatts
at 10.525 ghz. These units work perfectly as jammers. If you
cannot get one locally, write to Microwave Associates in
Burlington, Massachusettes and ask them for info on 'Gunnplexers'
for ham radio use. When you get the unit it may be mounted in a
plastic box on the dash or in a weather-proff enclosure behind the
PLASTIC grille. Switch on the power when on an open highway. The
unit will not jam radar to the side or behind the car so don't go
speeding past the radar trap. An interesting phenomena you will
notice is that the drivers who are in front of you who are using
detectors will hit their brakes as you approach large metal signs
and bridges. Your signal is bouncing off of these objects and
triggering their radar detectors! HAVE FUN!
-Jolly Roger-
P.S. If you are interested in this sort of thing, get a copy of
POPULAR COMMUNICATIONS. The ads in there tell you where you can
get all kinds of info on all kinds of neat equipment for all kinds
of neat things!
Smoke Bombs by the Jolly Roger
Here is the recipe for one helluva smoke bomb!
4 parts sugar
6 parts potassium nitrate (Salt Peter)
Heat this mixture over a LOW flame until it melts, stirring well.
Pour it into a future container and, before it solidifies, imbed a
few matches into the mixture to use as fuses. One pound of this
stuff will fill up a whole block with thick, white smoke!
Mail Box Bombs by the Jolly Roger
(1) Two litre bottle of chlorine (must contain sodium hypochlorate)
Small amount of sugar
Small amount of water
Mix all three of these in equal amounts to fill about 1/10 of the
bottle. Screw on the lid and place in a mailbox. It's hard to
believe that such a small explosion will literally rip the mailbox
in half and send it 20 feet into the air! Be careful doing this,
though, because if you are caught, it is not up to the person
whose mailbox you blew up to press charges. It is up to the city.
-Jolly Roger-
Mail Box Bombs by the Jolly Roger
(1) Two litre bottle of chlorine (must contain sodium hypochlorate)
Small amount of sugar
Small amount of water
Mix all three of these in equal amounts to fill about 1/10 of the
bottle. Screw on the lid and place in a mailbox. It's hard to
believe that such a small explosion will literally rip the mailbox
in half and send it 20 feet into the air! Be careful doing this,
though, because if you are caught, it is not up to the person
whose mailbox you blew up to press charges. It is up to the city.
-Jolly Roger-
The easiest way to hotwire cars by the Jolly Roger
Get in the car. Look under the dash. If it enclosed, forget it
unless you want to cut through it. If you do, do it near the
ignition. Once you get behind or near the ignition look for two
red wires. In older cars red was the standard color, if not, look
for two matched pairs. When you find them, cross them and take
off! -Jolly Roger-
How to make Napalm by the Jolly Roger
- Pour some gas into an old bowl, or some kind of container.
- Get some styrofoam and put it in the gas, until the gas won't
eat anymore. You should have a sticky syrup.
- Put it on the end of something (don't touch it!!). The unused
stuff lasts a long time!
-Jolly Roger-
How to make a fertilizer bomb by Jolly Roger
Ingredients:
- Newspaper
- Fertilizer (the chemical kind, GREEN THUMB or ORCHO)
- Cotton
- Diesel fuel
Make a pouch out of the newspaper and put some fertilizer in it.
Then put cotton on top. Soak the cotton with fuel. Then light and
run like you have never ran before! This blows up 500 square feet
so don't do it in an alley!! -Jolly Roger-
How to make a fertilizer bomb by Jolly Roger
Ingredients:
- Newspaper
- Fertilizer (the chemical kind, GREEN THUMB or ORCHO)
- Cotton
- Diesel fuel
Make a pouch out of the newspaper and put some fertilizer in it.
Then put cotton on top. Soak the cotton with fuel. Then light and
run like you have never ran before! This blows up 500 square feet
so don't do it in an alley!! -Jolly Roger-
Tennis Ball Bombs by The Jolly Roger
Ingredients:
- Strike anywhere matches
- A tennis ball
- A nice sharp knife
- Duct tape
Break a ton of matchheads off. Then cut a SMALL hole in the tennis
ball. Stuff all of the matchheads into the ball, until you can't
fit any more in. Then tape over it with duct tape. Make sure it is
real nice and tight! Then, when you see a geek walking down the
street, give it a good throw. He will have a blast!!
-Jolly Roger-
Diskette Bombs by the Jolly Roger
You need:
- A disk
- Scissors
- White or blue kitchen matches (they MUST be these colors!)
- Clear nail polish
- Carefully open up the diskette (3.5" disks are best for this!)
- Remove the cotton covering from the inside.
- Scrape a lot of match powder into a bowl (use a wooden scraper,
metal might spark the matchpowder!)
- After you have a lot, spread it evenly on the disk.
- Using the nail polish, spread it over the match mixture
- Let it dry
- Carefully put the diskette back together and use the nail polish
to seal it shut on the inside (where it came apart).
- When that disk is in a drive, the drive head attempts to read
the disk, which causes a small fire (ENOUGH HEAT TO MELT THE DISK
DRIVE AND FUCK THE HEAD UP!!). ahahahahaha! Let the fuckhead try
and fix THAT!!! -Jolly Roger-
Unlisted Phone Numbers by The Jolly Roger
There are a couple of different ways of doing this. Let's see if
this one will help: Every city has one or more offices dedicated
to assigning numbers to the telephone wire pairs. These offices
are called DPAC offices and are available to service reps who are
installing or repairing phones. To get the DPAC number, a service
rep would call the customer service number for billing information
in the town that the number is located in that he is trying to get
the unlisted number of. (Got that?) The conversation would go
something like this: "Hi, Amarillo, this is Joe from Anytown
business office, I need the DPAC number for the south side of
town." This info is usually passed out with no problems, so... if
the first person you call doesn't have it, try another. REMEMBER,
no one has ANY IDEA who the hell you are when you are talking on
the phone, so you can be anyone you damn well please! (heheheheh!)
When you call the DPAC number, just tell them that you need a
listing for either the address that you have, or the name. DPAC
DOES NOT SHOW WHETHER THE NUMBER IS LISTED OR UNLISTED!! Also, if
you're going to make a habit of chasing numbers down, you might
want to check into geting a criss-cross directory, which lists
phone numbers by their addresses. It costs a couple-a-hundred bux,
but it is well worth it if you have to chase more than one or two
numbers down! -Jolly Roger-
Fuses brought to you by The Jolly Roger
You would be surprised how many files are out there that use what
falls under the category of a "fuse." They assume that you just
have a few lying around, or know where to get them. Well, in some
parts of the country, fuses are extremely hard to come by... so
this file tells you how to make your own. Both fuses presented
here are fairly simple to make, and are fairly reliable.
SLOW BURNING FUSE
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ (approx. 2 inches per minute)
Materials needed:
- Cotton string or 3 shoelaces
- Potassium Nitrate or Potassium Chlorate
- Granulated sugar
Procedure:
- Wash the cotton string or showlaces in HOT soapy water, then
rinse with fresh water
- Mix the following together in a glass bowl:
1 part potassium nitrate or potassium chlorate
1 part granulated sugar
2 parts hot water
- Soak strings or shoelaces in this solution
- Twist/braid 3 strands together and allow them to dry
- Check the burn rate to see how long it actually takes!!
FAST BURNING FUSE
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ (40 inches per minute)
Materials needed:
-Soft cotton string
-fine black powder (empty a few shotgun shells!)
-shallow dish or pan
Procedure:
- moisten powder to form a paste
- twist/braid 3 strands of cotton together
- rub paste into string and allow to dry
- Check the burn rate!!!
How to make Potassium Nitrate by The Jolly Roger
Potassium Nitrate is an ingredient in making fuses, among other
things. Here is how you make it:
Materials needed:
-3.5 gallons of nitrate bearing earth or other material
-1/2 cup of wood ashes
-Bucket or other similar container about 4-5 gallons in volume
-2 pieces of finely woven cloth, each a bit bigger than the
bottom of the bucket
-Shallow dish or pan at least as large in diameter as the bucket
-Shallow, heat resistant container
-2 gallons of water
-Something to punch holes in the bottom of the bucket
-1 gallon of any type of alcohol
-A heat source
-Paper & tape
Procedure:
- Punch holes on the inside bottom of the bucket, so that the
metal is"puckered" outward from the bottom
- Spread cloth over the holes from the bottom
- Place wood ashes on the cloth. Spread it out so that it covers
the entire cloth and has about the same thickness.
- Place 2nd cloth on top of the wood ashes
- Place the dirt or other material in the bucket
- Place the bucket over the shallow container. NOTE: It may need
support on the bottom so that the holes on the bottom are not
blocked.
- Boil water and pour it over the earth very slowly. Do NOT pour
it all at once, as this will clog the filter on the bottom.
- Allow water to run through holes into the shallow dish on the
bottom.
- Be sure that the water goes through ALL of the earth!
- Allow water in dish to cool for an hour or so
- Carefully drain the liquid in the dish away, and discard the
sludge in the bottom
- Boil this liquid over a fire for at least two hours. Small
grains of salt will form - scoop these out with the paper as they
form
- When the liquid has boiled down to 1/2 its original volume let
it sit
- After 1/2 hour, add equal volume of the alcohol; when this
mixture is poured through paper, small white crystals appear. This
is the posassium nitrate.
Purification:
- Redissolve crystals in small amount of boiling water
- Remove any crystals that appear
- Pour through improvised filter then heat concentrated solution
to dryness.
- Spread out crystals and allow to dry
Exploding lightbulbs by The Jolly Roger
Materials needed:
-lightbulb (100w)
-socket (duh...)
-1/4 cup soap chips
-blackpowder! (open some shotgun shells!)
-1/4 cup kerosene orgasoline
-adhesive tape
-lighter or small blowtorch
-glue
Procedure for a simple exploding lightbulb:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
- Drill a small hole in the top of the bulb near the threads!
- Carefully pour the blackpowder into the hole. Use enough so
that it touches the filament!
- Insert into socket as normal (make sure the light is off or
else YOU will be the victim!!)
- Get the hell out!!
Procedure for a Napam Bulb:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
- Heat kerosene/gasoline in a double boiler
- Melt soap chips, stirring slowly.
- Put somewhere and allow to cool
- Heat the threads of the bulb VERY carefully to melt the glue.
Remove threads, slowly drawing out the filament. Do NOT break the
cheap electrical igniters and/or the filament or this won't work!!
- Pour the liquid into the bulb, and slowly lower the filament
back down into the bulb. Make sure the filament is dipped into the
fluid.
- Re-glue the threads back on. Insert it into a socket frequently
used by the victim and get the hell out!!
When the victim flips the switch, he will be in for a BIG surprise!
Have fun! -Jolly Roger-
Under water igniters by The Jolly Roger
Materials needed:
-Pack of 10 silicon diodes (available at Radio Shack. you will
know you got the right ones if they are very, very small glass
objects!)
-Pack of matches
-1 candle
Procedure:
- Light the candle and allow a pool of molten wax to form in the
top.
- Take a single match and hold the glass part of a single diode
against the head. Bend the diode pins around the matchhead so that
one wraps in an upward direction and thensticks out to the side.
Do the same with the other wire, but in a downward direction. The
diodes should now be hugging the matchhead, but its wires MUST NOT
TOUCH EACH OTHER!
- Dip the matchhead in wax to give it a water-proof coat. These
work underwater
- repeat to make as many as you want
How to use them:
When these little dudes are hooked across a 6v battery, the diode
reaches what is called breakdown voltage. When most electrical
components reach this voltage, they usually produce great amounts
of heat and light, while quickly melting into a little blob. This
heat is enough to ignite a matchhead. These are recommended for
use underwater, where most other igniters refuse to work. ENJOY!
-Jolly Roger-
Home-brew blast cannon by The Jolly Roger
Materials needed:
-1 plastic drain pipe, 3 feet long, at least 3 1/2 inches in
diameter
-1 smaller plastic pipe, about 6 inches long, 2 inches in
diameter
-1 large lighter, with fluid refills (this gobbles it up!)
-1 pipe cap to fit the large pipe, 1 pipe cap to fit the small
pipe
-5 feet of bellwire
-1 SPST rocker switch
-16v polaroid pot-a-pulse battery
-15v relay (get this at Radio Shack)
-Electrical Tape
-One free afternoon
Procedure:
- Cut the bell wire into three equal pieces, and strip the ends
- Cut a hole in the side of the large pipe, the same diameter as
the small pipe. Thread the hole and one end of the small pipe.
they should screw together easily.
- Take a piece of scrap metal, and bend it into an "L" shape,
then attach it to the level on the lighter:
/------------------------gas switch is here
V
/------
!lighter!!<---metal lever
!!!
!!
Now, every time you pull the 'trigger' gas should flow freely from
the lighter. You may need to enlarge the 'gas port' on your
lighter, if you wish to be able to fire more rapidly.
- Connect two wires to the two posts on the switch
- Cut two holes in the side of the smaller tube, one for the
switch on the bottom, and one for the metal piece on the top.
Then, mount the switch in the bottom, running the wires up and out
of the top.
- Mount the lighter/trigger in the top. Now the switch should
rock easily, and the trigger should cause the lighter to pour out
gas. Re-screw the smaller tube into the larger one, hold down the
trigger a bit, let it go, and throw a match in there. If all goes
well, you should hear a nice big 'THUD!'
- Get a hold of the relay, and take off the top.
1---------------
v/
2--------------/<--- the center object is the metal finger inside
3 the relay
cc-------------/
oo----------------4
ii
ll----------------5
Connect (1) to one of the wires coming from the switch. Connect
(2) to (4), and connect (5) to one side of the battery. Connect
the remaining wire from the switch to the other side of the
battery. Now you should be able to get the relay to make a little
'buzzing' sound when you flip the switch and you should see some
tiny little sparks.
- Now, carefully mount the relay on the inside of the large pipe,
towards the back. Screw on the smaller pipe, tape the battery to
the side of the cannon barrel (yes, but looks aren't everything!)
- You should now be able to let a little gas into the barrel and
set it off by flipping the switch.
- Put the cap on the back end of the large pipe VERY SECURELY.
You are now ready for the first trial-run!
To Test:
Put something very, very large into the barrel, just so that it
fits 'just right'. Now, find a strong guy (the recoil will
probably knock you on your ass if you aren't careful!). Put on a
shoulderpad, earmuffs, and possibly some other protective clothing
(trust the Jolly Roger! You are going to need it!). Hold the
trigger down for 30 seconds, hold on tight, and hit the switch.
With luck and the proper adjustments, you should be able to put a
frozed orange through 1/4 or plywood at 25 feet.
Have fun! -Jolly Roger-
Chemical Equivalency list by the Jolly Roger
Acacia..................................................Gum Arabic
Acetic Acid................................................Vinegar
Aluminum Oxide..............................................Alumia
Aluminum Potassium Sulphate...................................Alum
Aluminum Sulfate..............................................Alum
Ammonium Carbonate.......................................Hartshorn
Ammonium Hydroxide.........................................Ammonia
Ammonium Nitrate........................................Salt Peter
Ammonium Oleate.......................................Ammonia Soap
Amylacetate............................................Bananna Oil
Barium Sulfide...........................................Black Ash
Carbon Carbinate.............................................Chalk
Carbontetrachloride.................................Cleaning Fluid
Calcium Hypochloride..............................Bleaching Powder
Calcium Oxide.................................................Lime
Calcium Sulfate...................................Plaster of Paris
Carbonic Acid..............................................Seltzer
Cetyltrimethylammoniumbromide........................Ammonium Salt
Ethylinedichloride.....................................Dutch Fluid
Ferric Oxide.............................................Iron Rust
Furfuraldehyde............................................Bran Oil
Glucose.................................................Corn Syrup
Graphite...............................................Pencil Lead
Hydrochloric Acid....................................Muriatic Acid
Hydrogen Peroxide.........................................Peroxide
Lead Acetate.........................................Sugar of Lead
Lead Tero-oxide...........................................Red Lead
Magnesium Silicate............................................Talc
Magnesium Sulfate.......................................Epsom Salt
Methylsalicylate..................................Winter Green Oil
Naphthalene..............................................Mothballs
Phenol...............................................Carbolic Acid
Potassium Bicarbonate..............................Cream of Tarter
Potassium Chromium Sulfate..............................Chromealum
Potassium Nitrate.......................................Salt Peter
Sodium Oxide..................................................Sand
Sodium Bicarbonate.....................................Baking Soda
Sodium Borate................................................Borax
Sodium Carbonate......................................Washing Soda
Sodium Chloride...............................................Salt
Sodium Hydroxide...............................................Lye
Sodium Silicate..............................................Glass
Sodium Sulfate......................................Glauber's Salt
Sodium Thiosulfate.............................Photographer's Hypo
Sulfuric Acid.........................................Battery Acid
Sucrose.................................................Cane Sugar
Zinc Chloride.......................................Tinner's Fluid
Zinc Sulfate.........................................White Vitriol
Phone Taps by The Jolly Roger
Here is some info on phone taps. In this file is a schematic for a
simple wiretap & instructions for hooking up a small tape recorder
control relay to the phone line.
First, I will discuss taps a little. There are many different
types of taps. there are transmitters, wired taps, and induction
taps to name a few. Wired and wireless transmitters must be
physically connected to the line before they will do any good.
Once a wireless tap is connected to the line,it can transmit all
conversations over a limited reception range. The phones in the
house can even be modifies to pick up conversations in the room
and transmit them too! These taps are usually powered off of the
phone line, but can have an external power source. You can get more
information on these taps by getting an issue of Popular
Communications and reading through the ads. Wired taps, on the
other hand, need no power source, but a wire must be run from the
line to the listener or to a transmitter. There are obvious
advantages of wireless taps over wired ones. There is one type of
wireless tap that looks like a normal telephone mike. All you have
to do is replace the original mike with thisand itwill transmit
all conversations! There is also an exotic type of wired tap known
as the 'Infinity Transmitter' or 'Harmonica Bug'. In order to hook
one of these, it must be installed inside the phone. When someone
calls the tapped phone & *before* it rings,blows a whistle over
the line, the transmitter picks up the phone via a relay. The mike
on the phone is activated so that the caller can hear all of the
conversations in the room. There is a sweep tone test at
415/BUG-1111 which can be used to detect one of these taps. If one
of these is on your line & the test # sends the correct tone, you
will hear a click. Induction taps have one big advantage over taps
that must be physically wired to the phone. They do not have to be
touching the phone in order to pick up the conversation. They work
on the same principle as the little suction-cup tape recorder
mikes that you can get at Radio Shack. Induction mikes can be
hooked up to a transmitter or be wired.
Here is an example of industrial espionage using the phone:
A salesman walks into an office & makes a phone call. He fakes
the conversation, but when he hangs up he slips some foam rubber
cubes into the cradle. The called party can still hear all
conversations in the room. When someone picks up the phone, the
cubes fall away unnoticed.
A tap can also be used on a phone to overhear what your modem is
doing when you are wardialing, hacking, or just plain calling a
bbs (like the White Ruins! Denver, Colorado! 55 megs online!
Atari! Macintosh! Amiga! Ibm! CALL IT! 303-972-8566! By the way, i
did this ad without the sysops consent or knowledge!).
Here is the schematic:
-------)!----)!(------------->
)!(
Cap ^ )!(
)!(
)!(
)!(
^^^^^---)!(------------->
^ 100K
!
! <Input
The 100K pot is used for volume. It should be on its highest
(least resistance) setting if you hook a speaker across the
output. but it should be set on its highest resistance for a tape
recorder or amplifier. You may find it necessary to add another
10 - 40K. The capacitor should be around .47 MFD. It's only
purpose is to prevent the relay in the phone from tripping &
thinking that you have the phone off of the hook. the audio output
transformer is available at Radio Shack. (part # 273-138E for
input). The red & the white wires go to the output device. You may
want to experiment with the transformer for the best output.
Hooking up a tape recorder relay is easy. Just hook one of the phone
wires (usually red) to the the end of one of the relay & the ther
end just loop around. This bypasses it. It should look like this:
------^^^^^^^^^------------
---------
RELAY^^
(part #275-004 from Radio Shack works fine)
If you think that you line is tapped, the first thing to do is to
physically inspect the line yourself ESPECIALLY the phones. You
can get mike replacements with bug detectors built in. However, I
would not trust them too much. It is too easy to get a wrong
reading.
For more info:
BUGS AND ELECTRONIC SURVEILANCE from Desert Publications
HOW TO AVOID ELECTRONIC EAVESDROPPING & PRIVACY INVASION. I do not
remember who this one is from... you might want to try Paladin
Press.
-Jolly Roger-
How to make a landmine by The Jolly Roger
First, you need to get a pushbutton switch. Take the wires of it
and connect one to a nine volt battery connector and the other to
a solar igniter (used for launching model rockets). A very thin
piece of stereo wire will usually do the trick if you are
desperate, but I recommend the igniter. Connect the other wire of
the nine-volt battery to one end of the switch. Connect a wire
from the switch to the other lead on the solar igniter.
switch-----------battery
\ /
\ /
\ /
\ /
solar igniter
|
|
|
explosive
Now connect the explosive (pipe bomb, m-80, CO2 bomb, etc.) to the
igniter by attaching the fuse to the igniter (seal it with scotch
tape). Now dig a hole; not too deep but enough to cover all of the
materials. Think about what direction your enemy will be coming from
and plant the switch, but leave the button visible (not TOO
visible!). Plant the explosive about 3-5 feet away from the switch
because there will be a delay in the explosion that depends on how
short your wick is, and, if a homemade wick is being used, its
burning speed. But if you get it right... and your enemy is close
enough......... BBBBBBBOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMM! hahahaha
-Jolly Roger-
A different kind of Molitoff Cocktail by the Jolly Roger
Here is how you do it:
- Get a coke bottle & fill it with gasoline about half full
- Cram a piece of cloth into the neck of it nice and tight
- Get a chlorine tablet and stuff it in there. You are going to have
to force it because the tablets are bigger than the opening of the
bottle.
- Now find a suitable victim and wing it in their direction. When it
hits the pavement or any surface hard enough to break it, and the chlorine
and gasoline mix..... BOOM!!!!!!
Have fun! -Jolly Roger-
A different kind of Molitoff Cocktail by the Jolly Roger
Here is how you do it:
- Get a coke bottle & fill it with gasoline about half full
- Cram a piece of cloth into the neck of it nice and tight
- Get a chlorine tablet and stuff it in there. You are going to have
to force it because the tablets are bigger than the opening of the
bottle.
- Now find a suitable victim and wing it in their direction. When it
hits the pavement or any surface hard enough to break it, and the chlorine
and gasoline mix..... BOOM!!!!!!
Have fun! -Jolly Roger-
Phone Systems Tutorial by The Jolly Roger
To start off, we will discuss the dialing procedures for domestic
as well as international dialing. We will also take a look at the
telephone numbering plan.
North American Numbering Plan
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
In North America, the telephone numbering plan is as follows:
A) a 3 digit Numbering Plan Area (NPA) code , ie, area code
B) a 7 digit telephone # consisting of a 3 digit Central Office
(CO) code plus a 4 digit station #
These 10 digits are called the network address or destination
code. It is in the format of:
Area Code Telephone #
--------- -----------
N*X NXX-XXXX
Where: N = a digit from 2 to 9
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* = the digit 0 or 1
X = a digit from 0 to 9
Area Codes
~~~~~~~~~~
Check your telephone book or the seperate listing of area codes
found on many bbs's. Here are the special area codes (SAC's):
510 - TWX (USA)
610 - TWX (Canada)
700 - New Service
710 - TWX (USA)
800 - WATS
810 - TWX (USA)
900 - DIAL-IT Services
910 - TWX (USA)
The other area codes never cross state lines, therefore each state
must have at least one exclusive NPA code. When a community is
split by a state line, the CO #'s are often interchangeable (ie,
you can dial the same number from two different area codes).
TWX (Telex II) consists of 5 teletype-writer area codes. They are
owned by Western Union. These SAC's may only be reached via other
TWX machines. These run at 110 baud (last I checked! They are most
likely faster now!). Besides the TWX #'s, these machines are
routed to normal telephone #'s. TWX machines always respond with
an answerback. For example, WU's FYI TWX # is (910) 279-5956. The
answerback for this service is "WU FYI MAWA".
If you don't want to but a TWX machine, you can still send TWX
messages using Easylink [800/325-4112]. However you are gonna have
to hack your way onto this one!
700:
700 is currently used by AT&T as a call forwarding service. It is
targeted towards salesmen on the run. To understand how this
works, I'll explain it with an example. Let's say Joe Q. Salespig
works for AT&T security and he is on the run chasing a phreak
around the country who royally screwed up an important COSMOS
system. Let's say that Joe's 700 # is (700) 382-5968. Everytime
Joe goes to a new hotel (or most likely SLEAZY MOTEL), he dials a
special 700 #, enters a code, and the number where he is staying.
Now, if his boss received some important info, all he would do is
dial (700) 382-5968 and it would ring wherever Joe last progammed
it to. Neat, huh?
800:
This SAC is one of my favourites since it allows for toll free
calls. INWARD WATS (INWATS), or Inward Wide Area
Telecommunications Service is the 800 #'s that we are all familiar
with. 800 #'s are set up in service areas or bands. There are 6 of
these. Band 6 is the largest and you can call a band 6 # from
anywhere in the US except the state where the call is terminated
(that is why most companies have one 800 number for the countery
and then another one for their state.) Band 5 includes the 48
contiguous states. All the way down to band 1 which includes only
the states contiguous to that one. Therefore, less people can
reach a band 1 INWATS # than a band 6 #.
Intrastate INWATS #'s (ie, you can call it from only 1 state)
always have a 2 as the last digit in the exchange (ie, 800-NX2-
XXXX). The NXX on 800 #'s represent the area where the business is
located. For example, a # beginning with 800-431 would terminate
at a NY CO.
800 #'s always end up in a hunt series in a CO. This means that it
tries the first # allocated to the company for their 800 lines; if
this is busy, it will try the next #, etc. You must have a minimum
of 2 lines for each 800 #. For example, Travelnet uses a hunt
series. If you dial (800) 521-8400, it will first try the #
associated with 8400; if it is busy it will go to the next
available port, etc. INWATS customers are billed by the number of
hours of calls made to their #.
OUTWATS (OUTWARD WATS): OUTWATS are for making outgoing calls
only. Largecompanies use OUTWATS since they receive bulk-rate
discounts. Since OUTWATS numbers cannot have incoming calls, they
are in the format of:
(800) *XXX-XXXX
Where * is the digit 0 or 1 (or it may even be designated by a
letter) which cannot be dialed unless you box the call. The *XX
identifies the type of service and the areas that the company can
call.
Remember:
INWATS + OUTWATS = WATS EXTENDER
900:
This DIAL-IT SAC is a nationwide dial-it service. It is use for
taking television polls and other stuff. The first minute
currently costs an outrageous 50-85 cents and each additional
minute costs 35-85 cents. Hell takes in a lot of revenue this way!
Dial (900) 555-1212 to find out what is currently on this service.
CO CODES
~~~~~~~~
These identify the switching office where the call is to be
routed. The following CO codes are reserved nationwide:
555 - directory assistance
844 - time. These are now in!
936 - weather the 976 exchange
950 - future services
958 - plant test
959 - plant test
970 - plant test (temporary)
976 - DIAL-IT services
Also, the 3 digit ANI & ringback #'s are regarded as plant test
and are thus reserved. These numbers vary from area to area.
You cannot dial a 0 or 1 as the first digit of the exchange code
(unless using a blue box!). This is due to the fact that these
exchanges (000-199) contains all sorts of interesting shit such as
conference #'s, operators, test #'s, etc.
950:
Here are the services that are currently used by the 950 exchange:
1000 - SPC
1022 - MCI Execunet
1033 - US Telephone
1044 - Allnet
1066 - Lexitel
1088 - SBS Skyline
These SCC's (Specialized Common Carriers) are free from fortress
phones! Also, the 950 exchange will probably be phased out with
the introduction of Equal Access
Plant Tests:
These include ANI, Ringback, and other various tests.
976:
Dial 976-1000 to see what is currently on the service. Also, many
bbs's have listings of these numbers.
N11 codes:
----------
Bell is trying to phase out some of these, but they still exist in
most areas.
011 - international dialing prefix
211 - coin refund operator
411 - directory assistance
611 - repair service
811 - business office
911 - EMERGENCY
International Dialing
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
With International Dialing, the world has been divided into 9
numbering zones. To make an international call, you must first
dial: International Prefix + Country code + National #
In North America, the international dialing prefix is 011 for
station-to-station calls. If you can dial International #'s
directly in your area then you have International Direct Distance
Dialing (IDDD).
The country code, which varies from 1 to 3 digits, always has the
world numbering zone as the first digit. For example, the country
code for the United Kingdom is 44, thus it is in world numbering
zone 4. Some boards may contain a complete listing of other
country codes, but here I give you a few:
1 - North America (US, Canada, etc.)
20 - Egypt
258 - Mozambique
34 - Spain
49 - Germany
52 - Mexico (southern portion)
7 - USSR
81 - Japan
98 - Iran (call & hassle those bastards!)
If you call from an area other than North America, the format is
generally the same. For example, let's say that you wanted to call
the White House from Switzerland to tell the prez that his
numbered bank account is overdrawn (it happens, you know! ha ha).
First you would dial 00 (the SWISS international dialing refix),
then 1 (the US country code), followed by 202-456-1414 (the
national # for the White House. Just ask for Georgy and give him
the bad news!)
Also, country code 87 is reserved for Maritime mobile service, ie,
calling ships:
871 - Marisat (Atlantic)
871 - Marisat (Pacific)
872 - Marisat (Indian)
International Switching:
------------------------
In North America there are currently 7 no. 4 ESS's that perform
the duty of ISC (Inter-nation Switching Centers). All
international calls dialed from numbering zone 1 will be routed
through one of these "gateway cities". They are:
182 - White Plains, NY
183 - New York, NY
184 - Pittsburgh, PA
185 - Orlando, Fl
186 - Oakland, CA
187 - Denver, CO
188 - New York, NY
The 18X series are operator routing codes for overseas access (to
be furthur discussed with blue boxes). All international calls use
a signaling service called CCITT.It is an international standard
for signaling.
Ok.. there you go for now! If you wanna read more about this, read
part two which is the next file #36 in the Jolly Roger's cookbook!
-Jolly Roger-
Phone Systems Tutorial part II by The Jolly Roger
Part II will deal with the various types of operators, office
heirarchy, & switching equipment.
Operators
~~~~~~~~~
There are many types of operators in the network and the more
common ones will be discussed.
TSPS Operator:
The TSPS [(Traffic Service Position System) ass opposed to This
Shitty Phone Service] Operator is probably the bitch (or bastard,
for the female libertationists out there) that most of us are used
to having to deal with. Here are his/her responsibilities:
1) Obtaning billing information for calling card or third number
calls
2) Identifying called customer on person-to-person calls.
3) Obtaining acceptance of charges on collect calls.
4) Identifying calling numbers. This only happens when the calling
# is not automatically recorded by CAMA (Centralized Automatic
Message Accounting) & forwarded from the local office. This could
be caused by equipment failures (ANIF- Automatic Number
Identification Failure) or if the office is not equipped for CAMA
(ONI- Operator Number Identification).
<I once has an equipment failure happen to me & the TSPS operator
came on and said, "What # are you calling FROM?" Out of curiosity,
I gave her the number to my CO, she thanked me & then I was
connected to a conversation that appeared to be between a frameman
& his wife. Then it started ringing the party I wanted to
originally call & everyone phreaked out (excuse the pun). I
immediately dropped this dual line conference!
You should not mess with the TSPS operator since she KNOWS which
number that you are calling from. Your number will show up on a
10-digit LED read-out (ANI board). She also knows whether or not
you are at a fortress phone & she can trace calls quite readily!
Out of all of the operators, she is one of the MOST DANGEROUS.
INWARD operator:
This operator assists your local TSPS ("0") operatorin connecting
calls. She will never question a call as long as the call is
withing HER SERVICE AREA. She can only be reached via other
operators or by a blue box. From a blue box, you would dial
KP+NPA+121+ST for the INWARD operator that will help you connect
any calls within that NPA only. (Blue Boxing will be discussed in
a future file).
DIRECTORY ASSISTANCE Operator:
This is the operator that you are connected to when you dial: 411
or NPA-555-1212. She does not readily know where you are calling
from. She does not have access to unlisted numbers, but she DOES
know if an unlisted # exists for a certain listing.
There is also a directory assistance operator for deaf people who
use teletypewriters. If your modem can transfer BAUDOT [(45.5
baud). One modem that I know of that will do this is the Apple Cat
acoustic or the Atari 830 acoustic modem. Yea I know they are hard
to find... but if you wanna do this.. look around!) then you can
call him/her up and have an interesting conversation. The # is:
800-855-1155. They use the standard Telex abbreviations such as GA
for go ahead. they tend to be nicer and will talk longer than your
regular operators. Also, they are more vulnerable into being
talked out of information through the process of "social
engineering" as Chesire Catalyst would put it.
<Unfortunately, they do not have access to much. I once
bullshitted with one of these operators a while back and I found
out that there are 2 such DA offices that handle TTY. One is in
Philadelphia and the other is in California. They have approx. 7
operators each. most of the TTY operators think that their job is
boring (based on an official "BIOC poll"). They also feel that
they are under-paid. They actually call up a regular DA # to
process your request (sorry, no fancy computers!)
Other operators have access to their own DA by dialing
KP+NPA+131+ST (MF).
CN/A operators:
CN/A Operators are operators that do exactly the opposite of what
directory assistance operators are for. In my experience, these
operators know more than the DA op's do & they are more
susceptable to "social engeneering." It is possible to bullshit a
CN/A operator for the NON-PUB DA # (ie, you give them the name &
they give you the unlisted number. See the article on unlisted
numbers in this cookbook for more info about them.). This is due
to the fact that they assume that you are a fellow company
employee. Unfortunately, the AT&T breakup has resulted in the
break-up of a few NON-PUB DA #'s and policy changes in CN/A
INTERCEPT Operator:
The intercept operator is the one that you are connected to when
there are notenough recordings available to tell you that the #
has been disconnected or changed. She usually says, "What # you
callin'?" with a foreign accent. This is the lowest operator
lifeform. Even though they don't know where you are calling from,
it is a waste or your time to try to verbally abuse them since
they usually understand very little English anyway.
Incidentally, a few area DO have intelligent INTERCEPT Operators.
OTHER Operators:
And then there are the: MObile, Ship-to-Shore, Conference, Marine
Verify, "Leave Word and Call Back," Rout & Rate
(KP+800+141+1212+ST), & other special operators who have one
purpose or another in the network.
Problems with an Operator> Ask to speak to their supervisor... or
better yet the Group Chief (who is the highest ranking official in
any office) who is the equivalent of the Madame ina whorehouse.
By the way, some CO's that willallow you to dial a 0 or 1 as the
4th digit, will also allow you to call special operators & other
fun Tel. Co. #'s without a blue box. This is ver rare, though! For
example,212-121-1111 will get you a NY Inward Operator.
Office Hierarchy
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Every switching office in North America (the NPA system), is
assigned an office name and class. There are five classes of
offices numbered 1 through 5. Your CO is most likely a class 5 or
end office. All long-distance (Toll) calls are switched by a toll
office which can be a class 4, 3, 2, or 1 office. There is also a
class 4X office callen an intermediate point. The 4X office is a
digital one that can have an unattended exchange attached to it
(known as a Remote Switching Unit (RSU)).
The following chart will list the Office #, name, & how many of
those office exist (to the best of my knowledge) in North America:
Class Name Abb # Existing
----- ----------------------- --- -----------------
> 1 Regional Center RC 12
> 2 Sectional Center SC 67
> 3 Primary Center PC 230
> 4 Toll Center TC 1,300
> 4P Toll Point TP n/a
> 4X Intermediate Point IP n/a
> 5 End Office EO 19,000
> 6 RSU RSU n/a
When connecting a call from one party to another, the switching
equipment usually tries to find the shortest route between the
class 5 end office of the caller & the class 5 end officeof the
called party. If no inter-office trunks exist between the two
parties, it will then move upward to the next highest office for
servicing calls (Class 4). If the Class 4 office cannot handle the
call by sending it to another Class 4 or 5 office, it will then be
sent to the next highest office in the hierarchy (3). The
switching equipment first uses the high-usage interoffice trunk
groups, if they are busy then it goes to the fina; trunk groups on
the next highest level. If the call cannot be connected, you will
probably get a re-order [120 IPM (interruptions per minute) busy
signal] signal. At this time, the guys at Network Operations are
probably shitting in their pants and trying to avoid the dreaded
Network Dreadlock (as seen on TV!).
It is also interesting to note that 9 connections in tandem is
called ring-around-the-rosy and it has never occured in telephone
history. This would cause an endless loop connection [a neat way
to really screw up the network].
The 10 regional centers in the US & the 2 in Canada are all
interconnected. they form the foundation of the entire telephone
network. Since there are only 12 of them, they are listed below:
Class 1 Regional Office Location NPA
-------------------------------- ---
Dallas 4 ESS 214
Wayne, PA 215
Denver 4T 303
Regina No. 2SP1-4W (Canada) 306
St. Louis 4T 314
Rockdale, GA 404
Pittsburgh 4E 412
Montreal No. 1 4AETS (Canada) 504
That's it for now! More info to come Future update to the
Cookbook! Have fun! -Jolly Roger-
Basic Alliance Teleconferencing Courtesy of the Jolly Roger
Introduction:
------------
This phile will deal with accessing, understanding and using the Alliance
Teleconferencing Systems.... it has many sections and for best use should
be printed out...enjoy...
Alliance:
--------
Alliance Teleconferencing is an independant company which allows the general
public to access and use it's conferencing equipment. Many rumors have
been floating apound that Alliance is a subsidary of AT&T.
Well, they are wrong. As stated above, Alliance is an entirely independant
company. They use sophisticated equipment to allow users to talk to many
people at once.
The Number:
---------
Alliance is in the 700 exchange, thus it is not localized, well, not
in a way. Alliance is only in certain states, and only
residents of these certain states can access by dialing direct. This,
however, will be discussed in a later chapter. The numbers for alliance are
as follows:
0-700-456-1000 (chicago)
-1001 (los angeles)
-1002 (chicago)
-1003 (houston)
-2000 (?)
-2001 (?)
-2002 (?)
-2003 (?)
-3000 (?)
-3001 (?)
-3002 (?)
-3003 (?)
The locations of the first 4 numbers are known and i have stated them.
However, the numbers in the 200x and 300x are not definately known.
Rumor has it that the pattern repeats itself but this has not been proven.
Dialing:
-------
As stated before, Alliance is only in certain stated and only these states
can access them via dialing direct. However, dialing direct causes your
residence to be charged for the conference and conference bills are not low!!!
Therefore, many ways have been discovered to start a conference without
having it billed to ones house. They are as follows:
1) Dialing through a PBX
2) Incorporating a Blue Box
3) Billing to a loop
4) Billing to a forwarded call
I am sure there are many more but these are the four i will deal with.
Dialing through a PBX:
------- ------- - ---
Probably the easiest method of creating a free conference is through a PBX.
Simply call one in a state that has Alliance, input the PBX's code,
dial 9 for an outside line and then dial alliance.
An example of this would be:
PBX: 800-241-4911
When it answers it will give you a tone. At this tone input your code.
Code: 1234
After this you will receive another tone, now dial 9 for an outside line.
You will now hear a dial tone. Simply dial Alliance from this point and
the conference will be billed to the PBX.
Using a Blue Box:
----- - ---- ---
Another rather simple way of starting a conference is with a Blue Box.
The following procedure is how to box a conference:
Dial a number to box off of. In this example we will use 609-609-6099
When the party answers hit 2600hz. This will cause the fone company's
equipment to think that you have hung up. You will hear a <kerchunk>
You have now 'seized' a trunk. After this, switch to multi-frequency
and dial:
KP-0-700-456-x00x-ST
KP=KP tone on Blue Box
x=variable between 1 and 3
ST=ST tone on Blue Box
The equipment now thinks that the operator has dialed Alliance from her
switchboard and the conference shall be billed there. Since Blue Boxing
is such a large topic, this is as far as I will go into it's uses.
Billing to a loop:
------- -- - ----
A third method of receiving a free conference is by billing out to a
loop. A loop is 2 numbers that when two people call, they can talk
to each other. You're saying woop-tee-do right? Wrong! Loops can be
<very> usefull to phreaks. First, dial alliance direct. After going
through the beginning procedure, which will be discussed later in this
tutorial, dial 0 and wait for an Alliance operator. When she answers
tell her you would like to bill the conference to such and such a
number. (A loop where your phriend is on the other side) She will then
call that number to receive voice verification.
Of course your phriend will be waiting and will accept the charges.
Thus, the conference is billed to the loop.
Billing to call forwarding:
------- -- ---- ----------
When you dial a number that is call forwarded, it is first answered by
the original location, then forwarded. The original location will
hang up if 2600hz is received from only ond end of the line.
Therefore, if you were to wait after the forwarded residence answered,
you would receive the original location's dial tone.
Example:
Dial 800-325-4067
The original residence would answer, then forward the call, a second
type of ringing would be heard. When this second residence answers
simply wait until they hang up. After about twenty seconds you will
then receive the original residence's dial tone since it heard 2600hz
from one end of the line. Simply dial Alliance from this point and the
conference will be billed to the original residence.
These are the four main ways to receive a free conference. I am sure
many more exist, but these four are quite handy themselves.
Logon Procedure:
----- ---------
Once Alliance answers you will hear a two-tone combination. This is their
way of saying 'How many people do you want on the conference dude?'
Simply type in a 2-digit combination, depending on what bridge of Alliance
you are on, between 10 and 59. After this either hit '*' to cancel the
conference size and inout another or hit '#' to continue.
You are now in Alliance Teleconferencing and are only seconds away from
having your own roaring conference going strong!!!
Dialing in Conferees:
------- -- ---------
To dial your first conferee, dial 1+npa+pre+suff and await his/her answer.
npa=area code
pre=prefix
suff=suffix
If the number is busy, or if no one answers simply hit '*' and your call
will be aborted. But, if they do answer, hit the '#' key.
This will add them to the conference.
Now commence dialing other conferees.
Joining Your Conference:
------- ---- ----------
To join your conference from control mode simply hit the '#' key.
Within a second or two you will be chatting with all your buddies.
To go back into control mode, simply hit the '#' key again.
Transferring Control:
------------ -------
To transfer control to another conferee, go into control mode, hit the
# 6+1+npa+pre+suff of the conferee you wish to give control to. If after,
you wish to abort this transfer hit the '*' key.
<note>:Transfer of control is often not available. When you
receive a message stating this, you simply cannot transfer control.
Muted Conferences:
----- -----------
To request a muted conference simply hit the 9 key. I am not exactly
sure what a muted conference is but it is probably a way to keep unwanted
eavesdroppers from listening in.
Dialing Alliance Operators:
------- -------- ---------
Simply dial 0 as you would from any fone and wait for the operator to answer.
Ending Your Conference:
------ ---- ----------
To end your conference all together, that is kick everyone including
yourself off, go into control mode and hit '*'...after a few seconds
simply hang up. Your conference is over.
Are Alliance Operators Dangerous?
--- -------- --------- ---------
No. Not in the least. The worst they can do to you while you are having
a conference is drop all conferees including yourself. This is in no
way harmful, just a little aggravating.
Alliance and Tracing:
-------- --- -------
Alliance can trace, as all citizens of the United States can.
But this has to all be pre-meditated and AT&T has to be called and it's
really a large hastle, therefore, it is almost never done. Alliance simply
does not want it known that teenagers are phucking them over.
The only sort of safety equipment Alliance has on-line is a simple pen
register. This little device simply records all the numbers of the
conferees dialed. No big deal. All Alliance can do is call up that persons
number, threaten and question. However, legally, they can do nothing because
all you did was answer your fone.
<note>:Almost all instructions are told to the person in command by Alliance
recordings. A lot of this tutorial is just a listing of those
commands plus information gathered by either myself or the phellow
phreaks of the world!!!
(written by the Trooper)
Aqua Box Plans by Jolly Roger
Every true phreaker lives in fear of the dreadded F.B.I. 'Lock In Trace.'
For a long time, it was impossible to escape from the Lock In Trace.
This box does offer an escape route with simple directions to it.
This box is quite a simple concept, and almost any phreaker with basic
electronics knowledge can construct and use it.
The Lock In Trace
------------------
A lock in trace is a device used by the F.B.I. to lock into the phone
users location so that he can not hang up while a trace is in progress.
For those of you who are not familiar with the conecpt of 'locking in',
then here's a brief desciption. The F.B.I. can tap into a conversation,
sort of like a three-way call connection. Then, when they get there,
they can plug electricity into the phone line. All phone connections
are held open by a certain voltage of electricity.
That is why you sometimes get static and faint connections when you are
calling far away, because the electricity has trouble keeping the line
up. What the lock in trace does is cut into the line and generate that same
voltage straight into the lines. That way, when you try and hang up, voltage
is retained. Your phone will ring just like someone was calling you
even after you hang up. (If you have call waiting, you should understand
better about that, for call waiting intersepts the electricity and makes
a tone that means someone is going through your line. Then, it is a matter
of which voltage is higher. When you push down the receiver,then it see-saws
the electricity to the other side. When you have a person on each line
it is impossible to hang up unless one or both of them will hang up.
If you try to hang up, voltage is retained, and your phone will ring.
That should give you an understanding of how calling works. Also, when
electricity passes through a certain point on your phone, the electricity
causes a bell to ring, or on some newer phones an electronic ring to sound.)
So, in order to eliminate the trace, you somehow must lower the
voltage level on your phone line. You should know that every time
someone else picks up the phone line, then the voltage does decrease
a little. In the first steps of planning this out, Xerox suggested getting
about a hundred phones all hooked into the same line that could all
be taken off the hook at the same time. That would greatly decrease the
voltage level. That is also why most three-way connections that are using
the bell service three way calling (which is only $3 a month) become quite
faint after a while. By now, you should understand the basic idea. You
have to drain all of the power out of the line so the voltage can
not be kept up. Rather sudden draining of power could quickly short out
the F.B.I. voltage machine, because it was only built to sustain
the exact voltage nessecary to keep the voltage out. For now, imagine
this. One of the normal Radio Shack generators that you can go
pick up that one end of the cord that hooks into the central box has a
phone jack on it and the other has an electrical plug. This way, you
can "flash" voltage through the line, but cannot drain it. So, some
modifications have to be done.
Materials
----------
A BEOC (Basic Electrical Output Socket), like a small lamp-type
connection, where you just have a simple plug and wire that would plug
into a light bulb.
One of cords mentioned above, if you can't find one then construct your
own... Same voltage connection, but the restrainor must be built in (I.E.
The central box)
Two phone jacks (one for the modem, one for if you are being traced to
plug the aqua box into)
Some creativity and easy work.
*Notice: No phones have to be destroyed/modified to make this box, so
don't go out and buy a new phone for it!
Procedure
---------
All right, this is a very simple procedure. If you have the BEOC, it could
drain into anything: a radio, or whatever. The purpose of having
that is you are going to suck the voltage out from the phone line into
the electrical appliance so there would be no voltage left to lock
you in with.
1)Take the connection cord. Examine the plug at the end. It should have
only two prongs. If it has three, still, do not fear. Make sure the
electrical appliance is turned off unless you wanna become a crispy critter
while making this thing. Most plugs will have a hard plastic design on the
top of them to prevent you from getting in at the electrical wires inside.
Well, remove it. If you want to keep the plug (I don't see why...)
then just cut the top off. When you look inside, Lo and Behold,
you will see that at the base of the prongs there are a few wires
connecting in. Those wires conduct the power into the appliance.
So, you carefully unwrap those from the sides and pull them out until
they are about an inch ahead of the prongs. If you don't wanna keep the
jack, then just rip the prongs out. If you are, cover the prongs with
insultation tape so they will not connect with the wires when the power
is being drained from the line.
2)Do the same thing with the prongs on the other plug, so you have the
wires evenly connected. Now, wrap the end of the wires around each other.
If you happen to have the other end of the voltage cord hooked into the
phone, stop reading now, you're too fucking stupid to continue. After
you've wrapped the wires around each other, then cover the whole thing with
the plugs with insulating tape. Then, if you built your own control box
or if you bought one, then cram all the wires into it and reclose it.
That box is your ticket out of this.
3)Re-check everything to make sure it's all in place. This is a pretty
flimsy connection, but on later models when you get more experienced at
it then you can solder away at it and form the whole device into one
big box, with some kind of cheap mattel hand-held game inside to be
the power connector. In order to use it, just keep this box handy.
Plug it into the jack if you want, but it will slightly lower the
voltage so it isn't connected. When you plug it in, if you see sparks,
unplug it and restart the whole thing. But if it just seems fine then leave it.
Use
----
Now, so you have the whole thing plugged in and all... Do not use this
unless the situation is desperate! When the trace has gone on, don't
panic, unplug your phone, and turn on the appliance that it was hooked
to. It will need energy to turn itself on, and here's a great source...
The voltage to keep a phone line open is pretty small and a simple light
bulb should drain it all in and probably short the F.B.I. computer at
the same time.
Happy boxing and stay free! ------------Jolly Roger
Hindenberg Bomb by the Jolly Roger
Needed:1 Balloon
1 Bottle
1 Liquid Plumr
1 Piece Aluminum FoilL
1 Length Fuse
Fill the bottle 3/4 full with Liquid Plumr and add a little piece of
aluminum foil to it. Put the balloon over the neck of the bottle until
the balloon is full of the resulting gas. This is highly flammable
hydrogen.
Now tie the baloon. Now light the fuse, and let it rise.
When the fuse contacts the balloon, watch out!!!
-------[=How to Kill Someone==]------------[=WITH YOUR BARE HANDS=]-----
AN EXCERPT FROM THE ANARCHISTS COOKBOOK.....
Courtesy of the Jolly Roger
This file will explain the basics of hand-to-hand combat, and will tell
of the best places to strike and kill an enemy...
When engaged in hand-to-hand combat, your life is always at stake.
There is only one purpose in combat, and that is to kill your enemy.
Never face an enemy with the idea of knocking him out.
The chances are extremely good that he will kill YOU instead.
When a weapon is not available, one must resort to the full
use of his natural weapons. The natural weapons are:
1. The knife edge of your hands.
2. Fingers folded at the second joint or knuckle.
3. The protruding knuckle of your second finger.
4. The heel of your hand.
5. Your boot
6. Elbows
7. Knees
8. and Teeth.
Attacking is a primary factor. A fight was never
won by defensive action. Attack with all of your strength.
At any point or any situation, some vulnerable point on your enemies
body will be open for attack. Do this while screaming as screaming has
two purposes.
1. To frighten and confuse your enemy.
2. To allow you to take a deep breath which, in turn, will put
more oxygen in your blood stream. Your balance and balance of your
enemy are two inportant factors; since, if you succeed in making
your enemy lose his balance, the chances are nine to
one that you can kill him in your next move. The best over-all
stance is where your feet are spread about shoulders width apart,
with your right foot about a foot ahead of the left. Both arms
should be bent at the elbows parallel to each other. Stand on the
balls of your feet and bend your waist slightly. Kinda of like a
boxer's crouch. Employing a sudden movement or a scream or yell can
throw your enemy off-balance. There are many vulnerable points of
the body. We will cover them now:
Eyes:Use your fingers in a V-shape and attack in gouging motion.
Nose:(Extremely vulnerable) Strike with the knife edge of the hand
along the bridge, which will cause breakage, sharp pain, temporary
blindness, and if the blow is hard enough, death. Also, deliver a blow
with the heel of your hand in an upward motion, thiswill shove the
bone up into the brain causing death.
Adam's Apple: This spot is usually pretty well protected, but if you
get the chance, strike hard with the knife edge of your hand. This
should sever the wind-pipe, and then it's all over in a matter of
minutes.
Temple: There is a large artery up here, and if you hit it hard
enough, it will cause death. If you manage to knock your enemy down,
kick him in the temple, and he'll never get up again.
Back of the Neck: A rabbit punch, or blow delivered to the base of
the neck can easily break it, but to be safe, it is better to
use the butt of a gun or some other heavy blunt object.
Upper lip: A large network of nerves are located. These nerves are
extrememly close to the skin. A sharp upward blow will cause extreme
pain, and unconciosness.
Ears: Coming up from behind an enemy and cupping the hands in a clapping
motion over the victims ears can kill him immediately. The vibrations
caused from the clapping motion will burst his eardrums, and cause
internal bleeding in the brain.
Groin: A VERY vulnerable spot. If left open, get it with knee
hard, and he'll buckle over very fast.
Kidneys: A large nerve that branches off to the spinal cord comes very
close to the skin at the kidneys. A direct blow with the knife edge
of your hand can cause death.
There are many more ways to kill and injure an enemy, but these should
work best for the average person. This is meant only as information
and I would not recommend that you use this for a simple High School Brawl.
Use these methods only, in your opinion, if your life is in danger.
Any one of these methods could very easily kill or cause permanent damage
to someone. One more word of caution, you should practice these moves
before using them on a dummy, or a mock battle with a friend.
(You don't have to actually hit him to practice, just work on accuracy.)
Phone Systems Tutorial III by The Jolly Roger
PREFACE:
THIS ARTICLE WILL FOCUS PRIMARILY ON THE STANDARD WESTERN ELECTRIC SINGLE-
SLOT COIN TELEPHONE (AKA FORTRESS FONE) WHICH CAN BE DIVIDED INTO 3 TYPES:
- DIAL-TONE FIRST (DTF)
- COIN-FIRST (CF): (IE, IT WANTS YOUR $ BEFORE YOU RECEIVE A DIAL TONE)
- DIAL POST-PAY SERVICE (PP): YOU PAYAFTER THE PARTY ANSWERS
DEPOSITING COINS (SLUGS):
-------------------------
ONCE YOU HAVE DEPOSITED YOUR SLUG INTO A FORTRESS, IT IS SUBJECTED TO A
GAMUT OF TESTS. THE FIRST OBSTACAL FOR A SLUG IS THE
MAGNETIC TRAP. THIS WILL STOP ANY LIGHT-WEIGHT MAGNETIC SLUGS AND COINS.
IF IT PASSES THIS, THE SLUG IS THEN CLASSIFIED AS A NICKEL, DIME, OR
QUARTER. EACH SLUG IS THEN CHECKED FOR APPROPRIATE SIZE AND WEIGHT. IF THESE
TESTS ARE PASSED, IT WILL THEN TRAVEL THROUGH A NICKEL, DIME, OR QUARTER
MAGNET AS APPROPRIATE. THESE MAGNETS SET UP AN EDDY CURRENT EFFECT WHICH
CAUSES COINS OF THE APPROPRIATE CHARACTERISTICS TO SLOW DOWN SO THEY
WILL FOLLOW THE CORRECT TRAJECTORY. IF ALL GOES WELL, THE COIN WILL FOLLOW THE
CORRECT PATH (SUCH AS BOUNCING OFF OF THE NICKEL ANVIL) WHERE IT WILL
HOPEFULLY FALL INTO THE NARROW ACCEPTED COIN CHANNEL.
THE RATHER ELABORATE TESTS THAT ARE PERFORMED AS THE COIN TRAVELS DOWN THE
COIN CHUTE WILL STOP MOST SLUGS AND OTHER UNDESIRABLE COINS, SUCH AS
PENNIES, WHICH MUST THEN BE RETRIEVED USING THE COIN RELEASE LEVER.
IF THE SLUG MIRACULOUSLY SURVIVES THE GAMUT, IT WILL THEN STRIKE THE
APPROPRIATE TOTALIZER ARM CAUSING A RATCHET WHEEL TO ROTATE ONCE FOR EVERY
5-CENT INCREMENT (EG, A QUARTER WILL CAUSE IT TO ROTATE 5 TIMES).
THE TOTALIZER THEN CAUSES THE COIN SIGNAL OSCILLATOR TO READOUT A DUAL-
FREQUENCY SIGNAL INDICATING THE VALUE DEPOSITED TO ACTS (A COMPUTER) OR THE
TSPS OPERATOR. THESE ARE THE SAME TONES USED BY PHREAKS IN THE INFAMOUS RED
BOXES. FOR A QUARTER, 5 BEEP TONES ARE
OUTPULSED AT 12-17 PULSES PER SECOND (PPS). A DIME CAUSES 2 BEEP TONES AT
5 - 8.5 PPS WHILE A NICKEL CAUSES ONE BEEP TONE AT 5 - 8.5 PPS. A BEEP
CONSISTS OF 2 TONES: 2200 + 1700 HZ. A RELAY IN THE FORTRESS CALLED THE "B
RELAY" (YES, THERE IS ALSO AN 'A RELAY') PLACES A CAPACITOR ACROSS THE
SPEECH CIRCUIT DURING TOTALIZER READOUT TO PREVENT THE "CUSTOMER" FROM
HEARING THE RED BOX TONES. IN OLDER 3 SLOT PHONES: ONE BELL
(1050-1100 HZ) FOR A NICKEL, TWO BELLS FOR A DIME, AND ONE GONG (800 HZ) FOR A
QUARTER ARE USED INSTEAD OF THE MODERN DUAL-FREQUENCY TONES.
=============
=TSPS & ACTS=
=============
WHILE FORTRESSES ARE CONNECTED TO THE CO OF THE AREA, ALL TRANSACTIONS ARE
HANDLED VIA THE TRAFFIC SERVICE POSITION SYSTEM (TSPS). IN AREAS THAT
DO NOT HAVE ACTS, ALL CALLS THAT REQUIRE OPERATOR ASSISTANCE, SUCH AS
CALLING CARD AND COLLECT, ARE AUTOMATICALLY ROUTED TO A TSPS OPERATOR
POSITION. IN AN EFFORT TO AUTOMATE FORTRESS
SERVICE, A COMPUTER SYSTEM KNOWN AS AUTOMATED COIN TOLL SERVICE (ACTS) HAS
BEEN IMPLEMENTED IN MANY AREAS. ACTS LISTENS TO THE RED BOX SIGNALS FROM THE
FONES AND TAKES APPROPRIATE ACTION. IT IS ACTS WHICH SAYS, "TWO DOLLARS PLEASE
(PAUSE) PLEASE DEPOSIT TWO DOLLARS FOR THE NEXT TEN SECONDS" (AND OTHER
VARIATIONS). ALSO, IF YOU TALK FOR MORE THAN THREE MINUTES AND THEN HANG-UP,
ACTS WILL CALL BACK AND DEMAND YOUR MONEY. ACTS IS ALSO RESPONSIBLE FOR
AUTOMATED CALLING CARD SERVICE. ACTS ALSO PROVIDE TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS FOR
CRAFTSPEOPLE (REPAIRMEN SPECIALIZING IN FORTRESSES). FOR EXAMPLE, THERE IS A
COIN TEST WHICH IS GREAT FOR TUNING UP RED BOXES. IN MANY AREAS THIS TEST CAN
BE ACTIVATED BY DIALING 09591230 AT A FORTRESS (THANKS TO KARL MARX FOR THIS
INFORMATION). ONCE ACTIVATED IT WILL REQUEST THAT YOU DEPOSIT VARIOUS COINS.
IT WILL THEN IDENTIFY THE COIN AND OUTPULSE THE APPROPRIATE RED BOX
SIGNAL. THE COINS ARE USUALLY RETURNED WHEN YOU HANG UP.
TO MAKE SURE THAT THERE IS ACTUALLY MONEY IN THE FONE, THE CO INITIATES A
"GROUND TEST" AT VARIOUS TIMES TO DETERMINE IF A COIN IS ACTUALLY IN THE
FONE. THIS IS WHY YOU MUST DEPOSIT AT LEAST A NICKEL IN ORDER TO USE A RED
BOX!
GREEN BOXES:
------------
PAYING THE INITIAL RATE IN ORDER TO USE A RED BOX (ON CERTAIN FORTRESSES)
LEFT A SOUR TASTE IN MANY RED BOXER'S MOUTHS THUS THE GREEN BOX WAS INVENTED.
THE GREEN BOX GENERATES USEFUL TONES SUCH AS COIN COLLECT, COIN RETURN, AND
RINGBACK. THESE ARE THE TONES THAT ACTS OR THE TSPS OPERATOR WOULD SEND TO
THE CO WHEN APPROPRIATE. UNFORTUNATELY, THE GREEN BOX CANNOT BE USED AT A
FORTRESS STATION BUT IT MUST BE USED BY THE CALLED PARTY.
HERE ARE THE TONES:
COIN COLLECT 700 + 1100 HZ
COIN RETURN 1100 + 1700 HZ
RINGBACK 700 + 1700 HZ
BEFORE THE CALLED PARTY SENDS ANY OF THESE TONES, AN OPERATOR RELEASED
SIGNAL SHOULD BE SENT TO ALERT THE MF DETECTORS AT THE CO. THIS CAN BE
ACCOMPLISHED BY SENDING 900 + 1500 HZ OR A SINGLE 2600 HZ WINK (90 MS)
FOLLOWED BY A 60 MS GAP AND THEN THE APPROPRIATE SIGNAL FOR AT LEAST 900 MS.
ALSO, DO NOT FORGET THAT THE INITIAL RATE IS COLLECTED SHORTLY BEFORE THE 3
MINUTE PERIOD IS UP. INCIDENTALLY, ONCE THE ABOVE MF TONES
FOR COLLECTING AND RETURNING COINS REACH THE CO, THEY ARE CONVERTED INTO
AN APPROPRIATE DC PULSE (-130 VOLTS FOR RETURN & +130 VOLTS FOR COLLECT). THIS
PULSE IS THEN SENT DOWN THE TIP TO THE FORTRESS. THIS CAUSES THE COIN RELAY
TO EITHER RETURN OR COLLECT THE COINS. THE ALLEGED "T-NETWORK" TAKES ADVANTAGE
OF THIS INFORMATION. WHEN A PULSE FOR COIN COLLECT (+130 VDC) IS SENT DOWN
THE LINE, IT MUST BE GROUNDED SOMEWHERE. THIS IS USUALLY EITHER THE
YELLOW OR BLACK WIRE. THUS, IF THE WIRES ARE EXPOSED, THESE WIRES CAN BE
CUT TO PREVENT THE PULSE FROM BEING GROUNDED. WHEN THE THREE MINUTE
INITIAL PERIOD IS ALMOST UP, MAKE SURE THAT THE BLACK & YELLOW WIRES ARE
SEVERED; THEN HANG UP, WAIT ABOUT 15 SECONDS IN CASE OF A SECOND PULSE,
RECONNECT THE WIRES, PICK UP THE FONE, HANG UP AGAIN, AND IF ALL GOES WELL IT
SHOULD BE "JACKPOT" TIME.
PHYSICAL ATTACK:
----------------
A TYPICAL FORTRESS WEIGHS ROUGHLY 50 LBS. WITH AN EMPTY COIN BOX. MOST OF
THIS IS ACCOUNTED FOR IN THE ARMOR PLATING. WHY ALL THE SECURITY? WELL,
BELL CONTRIBUTES IT TO THE FOLLOWING: "SOCIAL CHANGES DURING THE 1960'S
MADE THE MULTISLOT COIN STATION A PRIME TARGET FOR: VANDALISM, STRONG ARM
ROBBERY, FRAUD, AND THEFT OF SERVICE. THIS BROUGHT ABOUT THE INTRODUCTION OF
THE MORE RUGGED SINGLE SLOT COIN STATION AND A NEW ENVIRONMENT FOR COIN
SERVICE." AS FOR PICKING THE LOCK, I WILL QUOTE MR. PHELPS:
"WE OFTEN FANTASIZE ABOUT 'PICKING THE LOCK' OR 'GETTING A MASTER
KEY.' WELL, YOU CAN FORGET ABOUT IT. I DON'T LIKE TO DISCOURAGE PEOPLE, BUT
IT WILL SAVE YOU FROM WASTING ALOT OF OUR TIME--TIME WHICH CAN BE PUT TO
BETTER USE (HEH, HEH)." AS FOR PHYSICAL ATTACK, THE COIN PLATE
IS SECURED ON ALL FOUR SIDE BY HARDENED STEEL BOLTS WHICH PASS THROUGH TWO
SLOTS EACH. THESE BOLTS ARE IN TURN INTERLOCKED BY THE MAIN LOCK.
ONE PHREAK I KNOW DID MANAGE TO TAKE ONE OF THE 'MOTHERS' HOME (WHICH WAS
ATTACHED TO A PIECE OF PLYWOOD AT A CONSTRUCTION SITE; OTHERWISE, THE
PERMANENT ONES ARE A BITCH TO DETACH FROM THE WALL!). IT TOOK HIM ALMOST
TEN HOURS TO OPEN THE COIN BOX USING A POWER DRILL, SLEDGE HAMMERS, AND CROW
BARS (WHICH WAS EMPTY -- PERHAPS NEXT TIME, HE WILL DEPOSIT A COIN FIRST TO
HEAR IF IT SLUSHES DOWN NICELY OR HITS THE EMPTY BOTTOM WITH A CLUNK.)
TAKING THE FONE OFFERS A HIGHER MARGIN OF SUCCESS. ALTHOUGH THIS MAY BE
DIFFICULT OFTEN REQUIRING BRUTE FORCE AND THERE HAS BEEN SEVERAL CASES OF
BACK AXLES BEING LOST TRYING TO TAKE DOWN A FONE! A QUICK AND DIRTY WAY TO
OPEN THE COIN BOX IS BY USING A SHOTGUN. IN DETROIT, AFTER ECOLOGISTS
CLEANED OUT A MUNICIPAL POND, THEY FOUND 168 COIN PHONE RIFLED.
IN COLDER AREAS, SUCH AS CANADA, SOME SHREWD PEOPLE TAPE UP THE FONES USING
DUCT TAPE, POUR IN WATER, AND COME BACK THE NEXT DAY WHEN THE WATER WILL HAVE
FROZE THUS EXPANDING AND CRACKING THE FONE OPEN.
IN ONE CASE, "UNAUTHORIZED COIN COLLECTORS" WHERE CAUGHT WHEN THEY
BROUGHT $6,000 IN CHANGE TO A BANK AND THE BANK BECAME SUSPICIOUS...
AT ANY RATE, THE MAIN LOCK IS AN EIGHT LEVEL TUMBLER LOCATED ON THE RIGHT SIDE
OF THE COIN BOX. THIS LOCK HAS 390,625 POSSIBLE POSITIONS (5 ^ 8, SINCE THERE
ARE 8 TUMBLERS EACH WITH 5 POSSIBLE POSITIONS) THUS IT IS HIGHLY PICK
RESISTANT! THE LOCK IS HELD IN PLACE BY 4 SCREWS. IF THERE IS SUFFICIENT
CLEARANCE TO THE RIGHT OF THE FONE, IT IS CONCEIVABLE TO PUNCH OUT THE SCREWS
USING THE DRILLING PATTERN BELOW (PROVIDED BY ALEXANDER MUNDY IN TAP #32):
====================================
!! ^
!! !
! 1- 3/16 " !! !
!<--- --->!! 1-1/2"
-------------------- !
! ! !! ! !
! (+) (+)-! -----------
---! !! ! ^
! ! !! ! !
! ! (Z) !! ! !
! ! !! ! 2-3/16"
---! !! ! !
! (+) (+) ! !
! !! ! !
-------------------- -----------
!!
!!
(Z) KEYHOLE (+) SCREWS
!!
===================================
AFTER THIS IS ACCOMPLISHED, THE LOCK CAN BE PUSHED BACKWARDS DISENGAGING
THE LOCK FROM THE COVER PLATE. THE FOUR BOLTS OF THE COVER PLATE CAN THEN
BE RETRACTED BY TURNING THE BOLTWORKS WITH A SIMPLE KEY IN THE SHAPE OF THE
HOLE ON THE COIN PLATE (SEE DIAGRAM BELOW). OF COURSE, THERE ARE OTHER
METHODS AND DRILLING PATTERNS.
:-------------------------------------:
_
! !
( )
!_!
[ROUGHLY]
DIAGRAM OF COVER PLATE KEYHOLE
:-------------------------------------:
THE TOP COVER USES A SIMILAR (BUT NOT AS STRONG) LOCKING METHOD WITH THE
KEYHOLE DEPICTED ABOVE ON THE TOP LEFT HIDE AND A REGULAR LOCK (PROBABLY
TUMBLER ALSO) ON THE TOP RIGHT-HAND SIDE. IT IS INTERESTING TO EXPERIMENT
WITH THE COIN SHUTE AND THE FORTRESSES OWN "RED BOX" (WHICH BELL DIDN'T HAVE
THE 'BALLS' TO COLOR RED).
MISCELLANEOUS:
--------------
IN A FEW AREAS (RURAL & CANADA), POST-PAY SERVICE EXISTS. WITH THIS TYPE OF
SERVICE, THE MOUTHPIECE IS CUT OFF UNTIL THE CALLER DEPOSITS MONEY WHEN
THE CALLED PARTY ANSWERS. THIS ALSO ALLOWS FOR FREE CALLS TO WEATHER AND
OTHER DIAL-IT SERVICES! RECENTLY, 2600 MAGAZINE ANNOUNCED THE CLEAR BOX WHICH
CONSISTS OF A TELEPHONE PICKUP COIL AND A SMALL AMP. IT IS BASED ON THE
RINCIPAL THAT THE RECEIVER IS ALSO A WEAK TRANSMITTER AND THAT BY AMPLIFYING
YOUR SIGNAL YOU CAN TALK VIA THE TRANSMITTER THUS AVOIDING COSTLY
TELEPHONE CHARGES! MOST FORTRESSES ARE FOUND IN THE 9XXX
AREA. UNDER FORMER BELL AREAS, THEY USUALLY START AT 98XX (RIGHT BELOW THE
99XX OFFICIAL SERIES) AND MOVE DOWNWARD.
SINCE THE LINE, NOT THE FONE, DETERMINES WHETHER OR NOT A DEPOSIT
MUST BE MADE, DTF & CHARGE-A-CALL FONES MAKE GREAT EXTENSIONS!
FINALLY, FORTRESS FONES ALLOW FOR A NEW HOBBY--INSTRUCTION PLATE COLLECTING.
ALL THAT IS REQUIRED IS A FLAT-HEAD SCREWDRIVER AND A PAIR OF NEEDLE-NOSE
PLIERS. SIMPLY USE THE SCREWDRIVER TO LIFT UNDERNEATH THE PLATE SO THAT YOU
CAN GRAB IT WITH THE PLIERS AND YANK DOWNWARDS. I WOULD SUGGEST COVERING THE
TIPS OF THE PLIERS WITH ELECTRICAL TAPE TO PREVENT SCRATCHING. TEN CENT PLATES
ARE DEFINITELY BECOMING A "RARITY!"
FORTRESS SECURITY:
------------------
WHILE A LONELY FORTRESS MAY SEEM THE PERFECT TARGET, BEWARE! THE GESTAPO
HAS BEEN KNOWN TO STAKE OUT FORTRESSES FOR AS LONG AS 6 YEARS ACCORDING TO THE
GRASS ROOTS QUARTERLY. TO AVOID ANY PROBLEMS, DO NOT USE THE SAME FONES
REPEATEDLY FOR BOXING, CALLING CARDS, & OTHER EXPERIMENTS. THE TELCO KNOWS HOW
MUCH MONEY SHOULD BE IN THE COIN BOX AND WHEN ITS NOT THERE THEY TEND TO GET
PERTURBED (READ: PISSED OFF).
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
--------Jolly Roger
p.s. This was originally written back in my old Apple ][ days,
hence the upper case. I just did not think I should waste the
little time I have to work on this shit converting it to lower-
case. Hell, I thought 80-columns was pretty nice of me.. heh heh.
Well, enjoy this and the rest of this Cookbook! ---------JR
Black Box Plans by The Jolly Roger
Introduction:
------------
At any given time, the voltage running through your phone is about 20
Volts. When someone calls you, this voltage goes up to 48 Volts and rings
the bell. When you answer, the voltage goes down to about 10 Volts.
The phone company pays attention to this. When the voltage drops to 10,
they start billing the person who called you.
Function:
--------
The Black Box keeps the voltage going through your phone at 36 Volts,
so that it never reaches 10 Volts. The phone company is thus fooled
into thinking you never answered the phone and does not bill the caller.
However, after about a half hour the phone company will get suspicious
and disconnect your line for about 10 seconds.
Materials:
---------
1 1.8K 1/2 Watt Resistor
1 1.5V LED
1 SPST Switch
Procedure:
---------
(1) Open your phone by loosening the two screws on the bottom and
lifting the case off.
(2) There should be three wires: Red, Green, and Yellow. We'll be working
with the Red Wire.
(3) Connect the following in parallel:
A. The Resistor and LED.
B. The SPST Switch.
In other words, you should end up with this:
(Red Wire)
!---/\/\/\--O--!
(Line)-----! !-----(Phone)
!-----_/_------!
/\/\/\ = Resistor
O = LED
_/_ = SPST
Use:
---
The SPST Switch is the On/Off Switch of the Black Box. When the box is off,
your phone behaves normally. When the box is on and your phone rings,
the LED flashes. When you answer, the LED stays on and the voltage
is kept at 36V, so the calling party doesn't get charged. When the box
is on, you will not get a dial tone and thus cannot make calls.
Also remember that calls are limited to half an hour.
------------Jolly Roger
p.s. Due to new Fone Company switching systems & the like, this
may or may not work in your area. If you live in bumfuck Kentucky,
then try this out. I make no guarantees! (I never do...) ----JR
The Infamous Blotto Box!! by The Jolly Roger
(I bet that NOONE has the balls to build this one!)
Finally, it is here! What was first conceived as a joke to fool the innocent
phreakers around America has finally been conceived!
Well, for you people who are unenlightened about the Blotto Box,
here is a brief summery of a legend.
--*-=> The Blotto Box <=-*--
For years now every pirate has dreamed of the Blotto Box. It was at first
made as a joke to mock more ignorant people into thinking that
the function of it actually was possible. Well, if you are The Voltage
Master, it is possible. Originally conceived by King Blotto of much fame,
the Blotto Box is finally available to the public.
NOTE: Jolly Roger can not be responsible for the information disclosed
in the file! This file is strictly for informational purposes and
should not be actually built and used! Usage of this electronical impulse
machine could have the severe results listed below and could result in
high federal prosecution! Again, I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY!
All right, now that that is cleared up, here is the basis of the box
and it's function.
The Blotto Box is every phreaks dream... you could hold AT&T down on its
knee's with this device. Because, quite simply, it can turn off the phone
lines everywhere. Nothing. Blotto. No calls will be allowed out of an area
code, and no calls will be allowed in. No calls can be made inside it for
that matter. As long as the switching system stays the same, this box will
not stop at a mere area code. It will stop at nothing. The electrical
impulses that emit from this box will open every line. Every line will
ring and ring and ring... the voltage will never be cut off until the
box/generator is stopped. This is no 200 volt job, here.
We are talking GENERATOR. Every phone line will continue to ring, and people
close to the box may be electricuted if they pick up the phone.
But, the Blotto Box can be stopped by merely cutting of the line or generator.
If they are cut off then nothing will emit any longer. It will take
a while for the box to calm back down again, but that is merely a
superficial aftereffect. Once again: Construction and use of this box is
not advised! The Blotto Box will continue as long as there is
electricity to continue with.
OK, that is what it does, now, here are some interesting things for you
to do with it...
-*-=>Blotto Functions/Installin'<=-*-
Once you have installed your Blotto, there is no turning back. The
following are the instructions for construction and use of this box.
Please read and heed all warnings in the above section before you attempt
to construct this box.
Materials:
- A Honda portable generator or a main power outlet like in a
stadium or some such place.
- 400 volt rated coupler that splices a female plug into a
phone line jack.
- A meter of voltage to attach to the box itself.
- A green base (i.e. one of the nice boxes about 3' by 4' that
you see around in your neighborhood. They are the main switch
boards and would be a more effective line to start with.
or: A regular phone jack (not your own, and not in your area
code!
- A soldering iron and much solder.
- A remote control or long wooden pole.
Now. You must have guessed the construction from that. If not, here goes,
I will explain in detail. Take the Honda Portable Generator and all of
the other listed equiptment and go out and hunt for a green base. Make
sure it is one on the ground or hanging at head level from a pole,
not the huge ones at the top of telephone poles. Open it up with anything
convienent, if you are two feeble that fuck don't try this.
Take a look inside... you are hunting for color-coordinating lines of
green and red. Now, take out your radio shack cord and rip the meter thing
off. Replace it with the voltage meter about. A good level to set the
voltage to is about 1000 volts. Now, attach the voltage meter to the cord
and set the limit for one thousand. Plug the other end of the cord
into the generator. Take the phone jack and splice the jack part off.
Open it up and match the red and green wires with
the other red and green wires. NOTE: If you just had the generator on
and have done this in the correct order, you will be a crispy critter.
Keep the generator off until you plan to start it up. Now, solder those
lines together carefully. Wrap duck tape or insultation tape around all
of the wires. Now, place the remote control right on to the startup
of the generator. If you have the long pole, make sure it is very long
and stand back as far away as you can get and reach the pole over.
NOTICE: If you are going right along with this without reading the file
first, you still realize now that your area code is about to become
null! Then, getting back, twitch the pole/remote control and run for your
damn life. Anywhere, just get away from it. It will be generating
so much electricity that if you stand to close you will kill yourself.
The generator will smoke, etc. but will not stop. You are now killing your
area code, because all of that energy is spreading through all of the
phone lines around you in every direction.
Have a nice day!
--*-=>The Blotto Box: Aftermath<=-*--
Well, that is the plans for the most devastating and ultimately deadly
box ever created. My hat goes off to: King Blotto (for the original idea).
---------Jolly Roger
Blowgun by The Jolly Roger
In this article I shall attempt to explain the use and manufacture
of a powerfull blow-gun and making darts for the gun.The possesion of
the blow gun described in this article IS a felony.
So be carefull where you use it. I don't want to get you all busted.
Needed:
1. Several strands of yarn (About 2 inches a-piece)
2. A regular pencil
3. A 2 1/4 inch long needle (hopefully with a beaded head. If not
obtainable,wrap tape around end of needle.
4. 2-3 1/4 foot pipe. (PVC or Aluminum) Half a inch in diameter
Constructing the dart:
1st- Carefully twist and pull the metal part (Along with eraser)
of the pencil till it comes off.
2nd- Take Pin and start putting about 5-7 Strands of yarn on the pin. Then
push them up to the top of the pin. But not over the head of the pin (orthe tape).
3rd- Push pin through the hollow part of the head where the pencil was before.
4th- That should for a nice looking dart. (see illustration)
#####
>>>>>-----/ # is the yarn
> is the head of the pencil
- is the pin it-self
/ is the head of the pin
Using the Darts:
1st- Now take the finished dart and insert it in the tube
(if it is too small put on more yarn.)
2nd- Aim the tube at a door, wall, sister, ect.
3rd- blow on the end of the pipe.
4th- Sometimes the end of the pipe may be sharp. When this happens I
suggest you wrap it with some black electrician tape.It should feel
a lot better.
-------Jolly Roger
Brown Box Plans by The Jolly Roger
This is a fairly simple mod that can be made to any phone. All it does
is allow you to take any two lines in your house and create a party
line. So far I have not heard of anyone who has any problems
with it. There is one thing that you will notice when you are
one of the two people who is called by a person with a brown box. The other
person will sound a little bit faint. I could overcome this with some
amplifiers but then there wouldn't be very many of these made [Why not?].
I think the convenience of having two people on the line at once will
make up for any minor volume loss.
Here is the diagram:
---------------------------------------
KEY:___________________________________
| PART | SYMBOL |
|---------------------------------|
| BLACK WIRE | * |
| YELLOW WIRE | = |
| RED WIRE | + |
| GREEN WIRE | - |
| SPDT SWITCH | _/_ |
| _/_ |
| VERTICAL WIRE | | |
| HORIZONTAL WIRE | _ |
-----------------------------------
* = - +
* = - +
* = - +
* = - +
* = - +
* ==_/_- +
*******_/_++++++
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
|_____PHONE____|
------------Jolly Roger
Calcium Carbide Bomb by The Jolly Roger
This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... Obtain some
calcium carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide lamps and
can be found at nearly any hardware store. Take a few pieces of this
stuff (it looks like gravel) and put it in a glass jar with some
water. Put a lid on tightly. The carbide will react with the water to
produce acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas used in
cutting torches. Eventually the glass with explode from internal
pressure. If you leave a burning rag nearby, you will get a nice
fireball!
-----------Jolly Roger
Calcium Carbide Bomb by The Jolly Roger
This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... Obtain some
calcium carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide lamps and
can be found at nearly any hardware store. Take a few pieces of this
stuff (it looks like gravel) and put it in a glass jar with some
water. Put a lid on tightly. The carbide will react with the water to
produce acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas used in
cutting torches. Eventually the glass with explode from internal
pressure. If you leave a burning rag nearby, you will get a nice
fireball!
-----------Jolly Roger
More Ways to Send a Car to Hell by The Jolly Roger
Due to a lot of compliments, I have written an update to file #14.
I have left the original intact. This expands upon the original
idea, and could be well called a sequal. -----JR
How to have phun with someone else's car. If you really detest
someone, and I mean detest, here's a few tips on what to do in your
spare time. Move the windshield wiper blades, and insert and glue
tacks. The tacks make lovely designs. If your "friend" goes to
school with you, Just before he comes out of school. Light a lighter
and then put it directly underneath his car door handle.
Wait...Leave...Listen. When you hear a loud "shit!", you know he
made it to his car in time. Remove his muffler and pour approximately
1 Cup of gas in it. Put the muffler back, then wait till their car starts.
Then you have a cigarette lighter. A 30 foot long cigarette lighter.
This one is effective, and any fool can do it. Remove the top
air filter. That's it! Or a oldie but goodie: sugar in the gas tank.
Stuff rags soaked in gas up the exhaust pipe. Then you wonder why
your "friend" has trouble with his/her lungs. Here's one that takes
time and many friends. Take his/her car then break into their house
and reassemble it, in their living or bedroom. Phun eh? If you're
into engines, say eeni mine moe and point to something and remove it.
They wonder why something doesn't work. There are so many others, but
the real good juicy ones come by thinking hard.
-----------Jolly Roger
More Ways to Send a Car to Hell by The Jolly Roger
Due to a lot of compliments, I have written an update to file #14.
I have left the original intact. This expands upon the original
idea, and could be well called a sequal. -----JR
How to have phun with someone else's car. If you really detest
someone, and I mean detest, here's a few tips on what to do in your
spare time. Move the windshield wiper blades, and insert and glue
tacks. The tacks make lovely designs. If your "friend" goes to
school with you, Just before he comes out of school. Light a lighter
and then put it directly underneath his car door handle.
Wait...Leave...Listen. When you hear a loud "shit!", you know he
made it to his car in time. Remove his muffler and pour approximately
1 Cup of gas in it. Put the muffler back, then wait till their car starts.
Then you have a cigarette lighter. A 30 foot long cigarette lighter.
This one is effective, and any fool can do it. Remove the top
air filter. That's it! Or a oldie but goodie: sugar in the gas tank.
Stuff rags soaked in gas up the exhaust pipe. Then you wonder why
your "friend" has trouble with his/her lungs. Here's one that takes
time and many friends. Take his/her car then break into their house
and reassemble it, in their living or bedroom. Phun eh? If you're
into engines, say eeni mine moe and point to something and remove it.
They wonder why something doesn't work. There are so many others, but
the real good juicy ones come by thinking hard.
-----------Jolly Roger
Ripping off Change Machines by the Jolly Roger
Have you ever seen one of those really big changer machines in airports
laundrymats or arcades that dispense change when you put in your 1 or 5
dollar bill? Well then, here is an article for you.
1) Find the type of change machine that you slide in your bill length
wise, not the type where you put the bill in a tray and then slide the
tray in!!!
2) After finding the right machine, get a $1 or $5 bill. Start crumpling
up into a ball. Then smooth out the bill, now it should have a very wrinkly
surface.
3) Now the hard part. You must tear a notch in the bill on the
left side about 1/2 inch below the little 1 dollar symbol (See Figure).
4) If you have done all of this right then take the bill and go out the
machine. Put the bill in the machine and wait. What should happen is:
when you put your bill in the machine it thinks everything is fine.
When it gets to the part of the bill with the notch cut out, the
machine will reject the bill and (if you have done it right)
give you the change at the same time!!! So, you end up getting your bill
back, plus the change!! It might take a little practice, but once
you get the hang of it, you can get a lot of money!
!--------------------------------!
! !
! (1) /-------\ (1) !
! ! ! !
! ! Pic. ! !
! (1) /\ \-------/ (1) !
! !! !
!-----/ \-----------------------!
\-------Make notch here. About 1/2 " down from (1)
P.S. Sorry for the "text work" but you should be able to get the
idea. Have fun!!! -----------------------Jolly Roger
Clear Box Plans by The Jolly Roger
The clear box is a new device which has just been invented that can be
used throughout Canada and rural United States. The clear box works on
"PostPay" payphones (fortress fones). Those are the payphones
that don't require payment until after the connection is established.
You pick up the fone, get a dial tone, dial your number, and then
insert your money after the person answers.
If you don't deposit the money then you can not speak to the person on
the other end because your mouth piece is cut off but not the ear-piece.
(obviously these phones are nice for free calls to weather or time or
other such recordings). All you must do is to go to your nearby Radio
Shack, or electronics store, and get a four-transistor amplifier and a
telephone suction cup induction pick-up. The induction pick-up would be
hooked up as it normally would to record a conversation, except
that it would be plugged into the output of the amplifier and a
microphone would be hooked to the input. So when the party
that is being called answers, the caller could speak through the little
microphone instead. His voice then goes through the amplifier and out
the induction coil, and into the back of the receiver where
it would then be broadcast through the phone lines and the other
partywould be able to hear the caller. The Clear Box thus
'clears up' the problem of not being heard. Luckily, the line will
not be cut-off after a certain amount of time because it will wait
forever for the coins to be put in.
The biggest advantage for all of us about this new clear box is the
fact that this type of payphone will most likely become very common.
Due to a few things: 1st, it is a cheap way of getting the DTF,
dial-tone-first service, 2nd, it doesn't require any special equipment,
(for the phone company) This payphone will work on any phone line.
Usually a payphone line is different, but this is a regular phone line
and it is set up so the phone does all the charging, not the company.
------------Jolly Roger
CNA List Courtesy of The Jolly Roger
NPA TEL NO NPA TEL NO
--------------------------------------
201 201-676-7070 601 601-961-8139
202 304-343-7016 602 303-293-8777
203 203-789-6815 603 617-787-5300
204 204-949-0900 604 604-432-2996
205 205-988-7000 605 402-580-2255
206 206-382-5124 606 502-583-2861
207 617-787-5300 607 518-471-8111
208 303-293-8777 608 608-252-6932
209 415-543-2861 609 201-676-7070
212 518-471-8111 612 402-580-2255
213 415-781-5271 613 416-443-0542
214 214-464-7400 614 614-464-0123
215 412-633-5600 615 615-373-5791
216 614-464-0123 616 313-223-8690
217 217-525-5800 617 617-787-5300
218 402-580-2255 618 217-525-5800
219 317-265-4834 619 818-501-7251
301 304-343-1401 701 402-580-2255
302 412-633-5600 702 415-543-2861
303 303-293-8777 703 304-344-7935
304 304-344-8041 704 912-784-0440
305 912-784-0440 705 416-979-3469
306 306-347-2878 706 *** NONE ***
307 303-293-8777 707 415-543-6374
308 402-580-2255 709 *** NONE ***
309 217-525-5800 712 402-580-2255
312 312-796-9600 713 713-861-7194
313 313-223-8690 714 818-501-7251
314 314-721-6626 715 608-252-6932
315 518-471-8111 716 518-471-8111
316 816-275-2782 717 412-633-5600
317 317-265-4834 718 518-471-8111
318 504-245-5330 801 303-293-8777
319 402-580-2255 802 617-787-5300
401 617-787-5300 803 912-784-0440
402 402-580-2255 804 304-344-7935
403 403-425-2652 805 415-543-2861
404 912-784-0440 806 512-828-2501
405 405-236-6121 807 416-443-0542
406 303-293-8777 808 212-334-4336
408 415-543-6374 809 212-334-4336
409 713-861-7194 812 317-265-4834
412 413-633-5600 813 813-228-7871
413 617-787-5300 814 412-633-5600
414 608-252-6932 815 217-525-5800
415 415-543-6374 816 816-275-2782
416 416-443-0542 817 214-464-7400
417 314-721-6626 818 415-781-5271
418 514-725-2491 819 514-725-2491
419 614-464-0123 901 615-373-5791
501 405-236-6121 902 902-421-4110
502 502-583-2861 904 912-784-0440
503 206-382-5124 906 313-223-8690
504 504-245-5330 907 *** NONE ***
505 303-293-8777 912 912-784-0440
506 506-648-3041 913 816-275-2782
507 402-580-2255 914 518-471-8111
509 206-382-5124 915 512-828-2501
512 512-828-2501 916 415-543-2861
513 614-464-0123 918 405-236-6121
514 514-725-2491 919 912-784-0440
515 402-580-2255 516 518-471-8111
517 313-223-8690 518 518-471-8111
519 416-443-0542 900 201-676-7070
Electronic Terrorism by The Jolly Roger
It starts when a big, dumb lummox rudely insults you. Being of a
rational, intelligent disposition, you wisely choose to avoid a
(direct) confrontation. But as he laughs in your face, you smile
inwardly---your revenge is already planned.
Step 1: follow your victim to his locker, car, or house. Once you
have chosen your target site, lay low for a week or more,
letting your anger boil.
Step 2: in the mean time, assemble your versatile terrorist
kit(details below.)
Step 3: plant your kit at the designated target site on a monday
morning between the hours of 4:00 am and 6:00 am. Include a
calm, suggestive note that quietly hints at the possibility
of another attack. Do not write it by hand! An example of
an effective note:
"don't be such a jerk, or the next one will take off your
hand. Have a nice day."
Notice how the calm tone instills fear. As if written by a
homicidal psychopath.
Step 5: choose a strategic location overlooking the target site. Try
to position yourself in such a way that you can see his facial contortions.
Step 6: sit back and enjoy the fireworks! Assembly of the versatile,
economic, and effective terrorist kit #1: the parts you'll need are:
1) 4 aa batteries
2) 1 9-volt battery
3) 1 spdt mini relay (radio shack)
4) 1 rocket engine(smoke bomb or m-80)
5) 1 solar ignitor (any hobby store)
6) 1 9-volt battery connector
Step 1: take the 9-volt battery and wire it through the relay's coil.
This circuit should also include a pair of contacts that when
separated cut off this circuit. These contacts should be held together
by trapping them between the locker,mailbox, or car door.
Once the door is opened, the contacts fall apart and the 9-volt circuit
is broken, allowing the relay to fall to the closed postion
thus closing the ignition circuit. (If all this is confusing take a
look at the schematic below.)
Step 2: take the 4 aa batteries and wire them in succession.
Wire the positive terminal of one to the negative terminal of another,
until all four are connected except one positive terminal and one negative
terminal. Even though the four aa batteries only combine to create 6
volts, the increase in amperage is necessary to activate the solar
ignitor quickly and effectively.
Step 3: take the battery pack (made in step 2) and wire one end of it
to the relay's single pole and the other end to one prong of the solar
ignitor. Then wire the other prong of the solar ignitor back to the open
position on the relay.
Step 4: using double sided carpet tape mount the kit in his locker,
mailbox, or car door. And last, insert the solar ignitor into the
rocket engine (smoke bomb or m-80).
Your kit is now complete!
---------><---------
I (CONTACTS) I
I I
I - (BATTERY)
I ---
I I
I (COIL) I
------///////-------
/-----------
/ I
/ I
/ I
(SWITCH) I I
I I
I --- (BATTERY)
I - ( PACK )
I ---
I I
I I
---- -----
I I
*
(SOLAR IGNITOR)
---------Jolly Roger
Electronic Terrorism by The Jolly Roger
It starts when a big, dumb lummox rudely insults you. Being of a
rational, intelligent disposition, you wisely choose to avoid a
(direct) confrontation. But as he laughs in your face, you smile
inwardly---your revenge is already planned.
Step 1: follow your victim to his locker, car, or house. Once you
have chosen your target site, lay low for a week or more,
letting your anger boil.
Step 2: in the mean time, assemble your versatile terrorist
kit(details below.)
Step 3: plant your kit at the designated target site on a monday
morning between the hours of 4:00 am and 6:00 am. Include a
calm, suggestive note that quietly hints at the possibility
of another attack. Do not write it by hand! An example of
an effective note:
"don't be such a jerk, or the next one will take off your
hand. Have a nice day."
Notice how the calm tone instills fear. As if written by a
homicidal psychopath.
Step 5: choose a strategic location overlooking the target site. Try
to position yourself in such a way that you can see his facial contortions.
Step 6: sit back and enjoy the fireworks! Assembly of the versatile,
economic, and effective terrorist kit #1: the parts you'll need are:
1) 4 aa batteries
2) 1 9-volt battery
3) 1 spdt mini relay (radio shack)
4) 1 rocket engine(smoke bomb or m-80)
5) 1 solar ignitor (any hobby store)
6) 1 9-volt battery connector
Step 1: take the 9-volt battery and wire it through the relay's coil.
This circuit should also include a pair of contacts that when
separated cut off this circuit. These contacts should be held together
by trapping them between the locker,mailbox, or car door.
Once the door is opened, the contacts fall apart and the 9-volt circuit
is broken, allowing the relay to fall to the closed postion
thus closing the ignition circuit. (If all this is confusing take a
look at the schematic below.)
Step 2: take the 4 aa batteries and wire them in succession.
Wire the positive terminal of one to the negative terminal of another,
until all four are connected except one positive terminal and one negative
terminal. Even though the four aa batteries only combine to create 6
volts, the increase in amperage is necessary to activate the solar
ignitor quickly and effectively.
Step 3: take the battery pack (made in step 2) and wire one end of it
to the relay's single pole and the other end to one prong of the solar
ignitor. Then wire the other prong of the solar ignitor back to the open
position on the relay.
Step 4: using double sided carpet tape mount the kit in his locker,
mailbox, or car door. And last, insert the solar ignitor into the
rocket engine (smoke bomb or m-80).
Your kit is now complete!
---------><---------
I (CONTACTS) I
I I
I - (BATTERY)
I ---
I I
I (COIL) I
------///////-------
/-----------
/ I
/ I
/ I
(SWITCH) I I
I I
I --- (BATTERY)
I - ( PACK )
I ---
I I
I I
---- -----
I I
*
(SOLAR IGNITOR)
---------Jolly Roger
How to Start A Conference w/o 2600hz or M-F by The Jolly Roger
(Originally an Apple ][ file, forgive the upper case!)
THIS METHOD OF STARTING THE CONF. DEPENDS ON YOUR ABILITY TO BULLSHIT THE
OPERATOR INTO DIALING A NUMBER WHICH CAN ONLY BE REACHED WITH AN OPERATOR'S
M-F TONES. WHEN BULLSHITTING THE OPERATOR REMEMBER OPERATOR'S ARE NOT
HIRED TO THINK BUT TO DO.
HERE IS A STEP-BY-STEP WAY TO THE CONF.:
1. CALL THE OPERATOR THROUGH A PBX OR EXTENDER, YOU COULD JUST CALL ONE
THROUGH YOUR LINE BUT I WOULDN'T RECOMMEND IT.
2. SAY TO THE OPERATOR:
TSPS MAINTENENCE ENGINEER, RING-FORWARD TO 213+080+1100, POSITION RELEASE,
THANKYOU.
(SHE WILL PROBABLY ASK YOU FOR THE NUMBER AGAIN)
DEFINITIONS: RING-FORWARD - INSTRUCTS HER TO DIAL THE NUMBER.
POSITION RELEASE - INSTUCTS HER TO RELEASE THE TRUNK AFTER SHE HAS
DIALED THE NUMBER.
+ - REMBER TO SAY 213PLUS080 PLUS1100.
3. WHEN YOU ARE CONNECTED WITH THE CONF. YOU WILL HERE A WHISTLE BLOW
TWICE AND A RECORDING ASKING YOU FOR YOUR OPERATOR #. DIAL IN ANY FIVE
DIGITS AND HIT THE POUNDS SIGN A COUPLE OF TIMES. SIMPLY DIAL IN THE #
OF THE BILLING LINE ECT. WHEN THE RECORDING ASK FOR IT.
3. WHEN IN THE CONTROL MODE OF THE CONF. HIT '6' TO TRANSFER CONTROL.
HIT '001' TO REENTER THE # OF CONFEREE'S AND TIME AMOUNT WHICH YOU
GAVE WHEN YOU STARED THE CONF. REMEMBER THE SIZE CAN BE FROM
2-59 CONFEREE'S. I HAVE NOT FOUND OUT THE 'LENGTHS' LIMITS.
How to Make Dynamite by The Jolly Roger
Dynamite is nothing more than just nitroglycerin and a stablizing
agent to make it much safer to use. For the sake of saving time, I
will abbreviate nitroglycerin with a plain NG. The numbers
are percentages, be sure to mix these carefully and be sure to use the
exact amounts. These percentages are in weight ratio, not volume.
no. ingredients amount
---------------------------------------
#1 NG 32
sodium nitrate 28
woodmeal 10
ammonium oxalate 29
guncotten 1
#2 NG 24
potassium nitrate 9
sodium nitate 56
woodmeal 9
ammonium oxalate 2
#3 NG 35.5
potassium nitrate 44.5
woodmeal 6
guncotton 2.5
vaseline 5.5
powdered charcoal 6
#4 NG 25
potassium nitrate 26
woodmeal 34
barium nitrate 5
starch 10
#5 NG 57
potassium nitrate 19
woodmeal 9
ammonium oxalate 12
guncotton 3
#6 NG 18
sodium nitrate 70
woodmeal 5.5
potassium chloride 4.5
chalk 2
#7 NG 26
woodmeal 40
barium nitrate 32
sodium carbonate 2
#8 NG 44
woodmeal 12
anhydrous sodium sulfate 44
#9 NG 24
potassium nitrate 32.5
woodmeal 33.5
ammonium oxalate 10
#10 NG 26
potassium nitrate 33
woodmeal 41
#11 NG 15
sodium nitrate 62.9
woodmeal 21.2
sodium carbonate .9
#12 NG 35
sodium nitrate 27
woodmeal 10
ammonium oxalate 1
#13 NG 32
potassium nitrate 27
woodmeal 10
ammonium oxalate 30
guncotton 1
#14 NG 33
woodmeal 10.3
ammonium oxalate 29
guncotton .7
potassium perchloride 27
#15 NG 40
sodium nitrate 45
woodmeal 15
#16 NG 47
starch 50
guncotton 3
#17 NG 30
sodium nitrate 22.3
woodmeal 40.5
potassium chloride 7.2
#18 NG 50
sodium nitrate 32.6
woodmeal 17
ammonium oxalate .4
#19 NG 23
potassium nitrate 27.5
woodmeal 37
ammonium oxalate 8
barium nitrate 4
calcium carbonate .5
Household equivalants for chemicles
It has come to my attention that many of these chemicles are
sold under brand names, or have household equivalants. here is a list
that might help you out. Also, see elsewhere in this Cookbook for
a more complete listing............
acetic acid vinegar
aluminum oxide alumia
aluminum potassium sulfate alum
aluminum sulfate alum
ammonium hydroxide ammonia
carbon carbonate chalk
calcium hypochloride bleaching powder
calcium oxide lime
calcium sulfate plaster of paris
carbonic acid seltzer
carbon tetrachloride cleaning fluid
ethylene dichloride Dutch fluid
ferric oxide iron rust
glucose corn syrup
graphite pencil lead
hydrochloric acid muriatic acid
hydrogen peroxide peroxide
lead acetate sugar of lead
lead tetrooxide red lead
magnesium silicate talc
magnesium sulfate Epsom salts
naphthalene mothballs
phenol carbolic acid
potassium bicarbonate cream of tartar
potassium chromium sulf. chrome alum
potassium nitrate saltpeter
sodium dioxide sand
sodium bicarbonate baking soda
sodium borate borax
sodium carbonate washing soda
sodium chloride salt
sodium hydroxide lye
sodium silicate water glass
sodium sulfate glauber's salt
sodium thiosulfate photographer's hypo
sulferic acid battery acid
sucrose cane sugar
zinc chloride tinner's fluid
Keep this list handy at all times. If you can't seem to get one
or more of the ingredients try another one. If you still can't, you
can always buy small amounts from your school, or maybe from various
chemical companies. When you do that, be sure to say as little as
possible, if during the school year, and they ask, say it's for a
experiment for school.
-------------Jolly Roger
Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower by The Jolly Roger
For this one, all you need is a car, a sparkplug, ignition wire and a
switch. Install the spark plug into the last four or five inches of
the tailpipeby drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily.
Attach the wire (this is regular insulated wire) to one side of the
switch and to the spark plug. The other side of the switch is attached
to the positive terminal on the battery. With the car running, simply
hit the switch and watch the flames fly!!! Again be careful that no
one is behind you! I have seen some of these flames go 20 feet!!!
-------------Jolly Roger
Breaking into BBS Express Courtesy of the Jolly Roger
If you have high enough access on any BBS Express BBS you can get the
Sysop's password without any problems and be able to log on as him and do
whatever you like. Download the Pass file, delete the whole BBS, anything.
Its all a matter of uploading a text file and d/ling it from the BBS. You
must have high enough access to see new uploads to do this. If you can see
a file you just uploaded you have the ability to break into the BBS in a
few easy steps.
Why am I telling everyone this when I run BBS Express myself?
Well there is one way to stop this from happening and I want other Sysops
to be aware of it and not have it happen to them.
Breaking in is all based on the MENU function of BBS Express. Express
will let you create a menu to display different text files by putting the
word MENU at the top of any text file and stating what files are to be
displayed. But due to a major screw up by Mr. Ledbetter you can use this
MENU option to display the USERLOG and the Sysop's Passwords or anything
else you like. I will show you how to get the Sysop's pass and therefore
log on as the Sysop. BBs Express Sysop's have 2 passwords. One like
everyone else gets in the form of X1XXX, and a Secondary password
to make it harder to hack out the Sysops pass.
The Secondary pass is found in a file called SYSDATA.DAT.
This file must be on drive 1 and is therefore easy to get. All you have to
do is upload this simple Text file:
MENU
1
D1:SYSDATA.DAT
Ripoff time!
after you upload this file you d/l it non-Xmodem. Stupid Express thinks
it is displaying a menu and you will see this:
Ripoff time!
Selection [0]:
Just hit 1 and Express will display the SYSDATA.DAT file.OPPASS is where
the Sysop's Secondary pass will be. D1:USERLOG.DAT is where you will find
the name and Drive number of the USERLOG.DAT file. The Sysop might have
renamed this file or put it in a Subdirectory or even on a different
drive. I Will Assume he left it as D1:USERLOG.DAT. The other parts of this
file tell you where the .HLP screens are and where the LOG is saved and
all the Download path names.
Now to get the Sysop's primary pass you upload a text file like this:
MENU
1
D1:USERLOG.DAT
Breaking into Bedwetter's BBS
Again you then d/l this file non-Xmodem and you will see:
Breaking into Bedwetter's BBS
Selection [0]:
You then hit 1 and the long USERLOG.DAT file comes flying at you.
The Sysop is the first entry in this very long file so it is easy. You will
see:
SYSOP'S NAME X1XXX
You should now have his 2 passwords.
There is only one easy way out of this that I can think of, and that is
to make all new uploads go to SYSOP level (Level 9) access only. This way
nobody can pull off what I just explained.
I feel this is a major Bug on Mr. Ledbetter's part. I just don't know why
no one had thought of it before. I would like to give credit to
Redline for the message he left on Modem Hell telling about this problem,
and also to Unka for his ideas and input about correcting it.
This has been brought to you from [_The_Piper_] and the S.O.D. BBS
Network!
Firebombs by the Jolly Roger
Most fire bombs are simply gasoline filled bottles with a fuel
soaked rag in the mouth (the bottle's mouth, not yours). The original
Molotov cocktail, and still about the best, was a mixture of one part
gasoline and one part motor oil. The oil helps it to cling to what it
splatters on.
Some use one part roofing tar and one part gasoline. Fire bombs
have been found which were made by pouring melted wax into gasoline.
-------------Jolly Roger
Fuse Ignition Bomb by The Jolly Roger
A four strand homemade fuse is used for this. It burns like fury.
It is held down and concealed by a strip of bent tin cut from a can.
The exposed end of the fuse is dipped into the flare igniter. To use
this one, you light the fuse and hold the fire bomb until the fuse has
burned out of sight under the tin. Then throw it and when it breaks,
the burning fuse will ignite the contents.
-------------Jolly Roger
Fuse Ignition Bomb by The Jolly Roger
A four strand homemade fuse is used for this. It burns like fury.
It is held down and concealed by a strip of bent tin cut from a can.
The exposed end of the fuse is dipped into the flare igniter. To use
this one, you light the fuse and hold the fire bomb until the fuse has
burned out of sight under the tin. Then throw it and when it breaks,
the burning fuse will ignite the contents.
-------------Jolly Roger
Generic Bomb by the Jolly Roger
1) Aquire a glass container
2) Put in a few drops of gasoline
3) Cap the top
4) Now turn the container around to coat the inner surfaces and then
evaporates
5) Add a few drops of potassium permanganate (<-Get this stuff from a
snake bite kit)
6) The bomb is detonated by throwing aganist a solid object.
*AFTER THROWING THIS THING RUN LIKE HELL THIS THING PACKS ABOUT 1/2
STICK OF DYNAMITE*
---------------Jolly Roger
Green Box Plans by the Jolly Roger
Paying the initial rate in order to use a red box (on certain
fortresses) left a sour taste in many red boxers mouths, thus the
green box was invented. The green box generates useful tones such as
COIN COLLECT, COIN RETURN, AND RINGBACK. These are the tones that
ACTS or the TSPS operator would send to the CO when appropriate.
Unfortunately, the green box cannot be used at the fortress station but
must be used by the CALLED party.
Here are the tones:
COIN COLLECT 700+1100hz
COIN RETURN 1100+1700hz
RINGBACK 700+1700hz
Before the called party sends any of these tones, an operator realease
signal should be sent to alert the MF detectors at the CO.
This can be done by sending 900hz + 1500hz or a single 2600 wink (90 ms.)
Also do not forget that the initial rate is collected shortly before the
3 minute period is up. Incidentally, once the above MF
tones for collecting and returning coins reach the CO, they are
converted into an appropriate DC pulse (-130 volts for return and
+130 for collect). This pulse is then sent down the tip to the
fortress. This causes the coin relay to either return or collect the coins.
The alledged "T-network" takes advantage of this information.
When a pulse for coin collect (+130 VDC) is sent down the line,
it must be grounded somewhere. This is usually the yellow or black wire.
Thus, if the wires are exposed, these wires can be cut to prevent
the pulse from being grounded. When the three minute initial
period is almost up, make sure that the black and yellow wires are
severed, then hang up, wait about 15 seconds in case of a second
pulse, reconnect the wires, pick up the phone, and if all goes well,
it should be "JACKPOT" time.
---------Jolly Roger
Portable Grenade Launcher by the Jolly Roger
If you have a bow, this one is for you. Remove the ferrule from an
aluminum arrow, and fill the arrow with black powder (I use grade
FFFF, it burns easy)and then glue a shotshell primer into the hole
left where the ferrule went. Next, glue a BB on the primer, and you
are ready to go! Make sure no one is nearby.... Little shreds of
aluminum go all over the place!!
------------Jolly Roger
Hacking Tutorial Courtesy of the Jolly Roger
What is hacking?
----------------
According to popular belief the term hacker and hacking was founded at mit
it comes from the root of a hack writer,someone who keeps "hacking" at
the typewriter until he finishes the story.a computer hacker would be
hacking at the keyboard or password works.
What you need:
--------------
To hack you need a computer equipped with a modem (a device that lets you
transmit data over phone lines) which should cost you from $100 to $1200.
How do you hack?
----------------
Hacking recuires two things:
1. The phone number
2. Answer to identity elements
How do you find the phone #?
----------------------------
There are three basic ways to find a computers phone number.
1. Scanning,
2. Directory
3. Inside info.
What is scanning?
-----------------
Scanning is the process of having a computer search for a carrier tone.
For example,the computer would start at (800) 111-1111 and wait for carrier
if there is none it will go on to 111-1112 etc.if there is a carrier it
will record it for future use and continue looking for more.
What is directory assictance?
-----------------------------
This way can only be used if you know where your target computer is. For this
example say it is in menlo park, CA and the company name is sri.
1. Dial 411 (or 415-555-1212)
2. Say "Menlo park"
3. Say "Sri"
4. Write down number
5. Ask if there are any more numbers
6. If so write them down.
7. Hang up on operator
8. Dial all numbers you were given
9. Listen fir carrier tone
10. If you hear carrier tone write down number, call it on your modem and your
set to hack!
---------------Jolly Roger
The Basics of Hacking II Courtesy of the Jolly Roger
Basics to know before doing anything, essential to your continuing
career as one of the elite in the country... This article, "the
introduction to the world of hacking" is meant to help you by telling you
how not to get caught, what not to do on a computer system, what type of
equipment should I know about now, and just a little on the history, past
present future, of the hacker.
Welcome to the world of hacking! We, the people who live outside of the
normal rules, and have been scorned and even arrested by those from the
'civilized world', are becomming scarcer every day. This is due to the
greater fear of what a good hacker (skill wise, no moral judgements
here)|can do nowadays, thus causing anti- hacker sentiment in the masses.
Also, few hackers seem to actually know about the computer systems they
hack, or what equipment they will run into on the front end, or what they
could do wrong on a system to alert the 'higher' authorities who monitor
the system. This article is intended to tell you about some things not to
do, even before you get on the system. I will tell you about the new wave
of front end security devices that are beginning to be used on computers.
I will attempt to instill in you a second identity, to be brought up at
time of great need, to pull you out of trouble. And, by the way, I take no, repeat,
no, responcibility for what we say in this and the forthcoming articles.
Enough of the bullshit, on to the fun: after logging on your favorite bbs,
you see on the high access board a phone number! It says it's a great
system to "fuck around with!" This may be true, but how many other people
are going to call the same number? So: try to avoid calling a number
given to the public. This is because there are at least every other
user calling, and how many other boards will that number spread to?
If you call a number far, far away, and you plan on going thru an
extender or a re-seller, don't keep calling the same access number
(I.E. As you would if you had a hacker running), this looks very suspicious
and can make life miserable when the phone bill comes in the mail.
Most cities have a variety of access numbers and services,
so use as many as you can. Never trust a change in the system...
The 414's, the assholes, were caught for this reason: when one of them
connected to the system, there was nothing good there. The next time,
there was a trek game stuck right in their way! They proceded to play said
game for two, say two and a half hours, while telenet was tracing them!
Nice job, don't you think? If anything looks suspicious, drop the line
immediately!! As in, yesterday!! The point we're trying to get accross is:
if you use a little common sence, you won't get busted. Let the little
kids who aren't smart enough to recognize a trap get busted, it will take
the heat off of the real hackers. Now, let's say you get on a computer
system... It looks great, checks out, everything seems fine.
Ok, now is when it gets more dangerous. You have to know the computer
system to know what not to do.
Basically, keep away from any command something, copy a new file into the
account, or whatever! Always leave the account in the same status you
logged in with. Change *nothing*... If it isn't an account with priv's,
then don't try any commands that require them! All, yes all, systems are
going to be keeping log files of what users are doing, and that will
show up. It is just like dropping a trouble-card in an ESS system,
after sending that nice operator a pretty tone.
Spend no excessive amounts of time on the account in one stretch.
Keep your calling to the very late night ifpossible, or during
business hours (believe it or not!). It so happens
that there are more users on during business hours, and it is very
difficult to read a log file with 60 users doing many commnds every minute.
Try to avoid systems where everyone knows each other, don't try to bluff.
And above all: never act like you own the system, or are the best there
is. They always grab the people who's heads swell... There is some very
interesting front end equipment around nowadays, but first let's
define terms... By front end, we mean any device that you must
pass thru to get at the real computer. There are devices that are made to
defeat hacker programs, and just plain old multiplexers.
To defeat hacker programs, there are now devices that pick up the phone
and just sit there... This means that your device gets no carrier,
thus you think there isn't a computer on the other end. The
only way around it is to detect when it was picked up. If it pickes up
after the same number ring, then you know it is a hacker-defeater.
These devices take a multi-digit code to let you into the system.
Some are, in fact, quite sophisticated to the point where it
will also limit the user name's down, so only one name or set of names
can be valid logins after they input the code... Other devices input a
number code, and then they dial back a pre-programmed number for that code.
These systems are best to leave alone,
because they know someone is playing with their phone. You may think "but
i'll just reprogram the dial-back." Think again, how stupid that is...
Then they have your number, or a test loop if you were just a little
smarter. If it's your number, they have your balls (if male...),
If its a loop, then you are screwed again, since those loops
are *monitored*. As for multiplexers... What a plexer is supposed
to do is this:
The system can accept multiple users. We have to time share, so we'll let
the front-end processor do it... Well, this is what a multiplexer does.
Usually they will ask for something like "enter class" or "line:". Usually
it is programmed for a double digit number, or a four to five letter word.
There are usually a few sets of numbers it accepts, but those numbers also
set your 300/1200/2400 baud data type.
These multiplexers are inconvenient at best, so not to worry. A little
about the history of hacking: hacking, by my definition, means a great
knowledge of some special area. Doctors and lawyers
are hackers of a sort, by this definition. But most often, it is
being used in the computer context, and thus we have a definition of
"anyone who has a great amount of computer or telecommunications
knowledge." You are not a hacker because you have a list of codes...
Hacking, by my definition, has then been around only about 15 years.
It started, where else but, mit and colleges where they had computer
science or electrical engineering departments.
Hackers have created some of the best computer languages, the
most awesome operating systems, and even gone on to make millions.
Hacking used to have a good name, when we could honestly say
"we know what we are doing". Now it means (in the public eye):
the 414's, ron austin, the nasa hackers, the arpanet hackers...
All the people who have been caught,
have done damage, and are now going to have to face fines and sentences.
Thus we come past the moralistic crap, and to our purpose: educate the
hacker community, return to the days when people actually knew something...
--------------Jolly Roger
Hacking DEC's by the Jolly Roger
In this article you will learn how to log in to dec's, logging out, and all
the fun stuff to do in-between. All of this information is based on a
standard dec system.
Since there are dec systems 10 and 20, and I favor, the dec 20,
there will be more info on them in this article. It just so happens
that the dec 20 is also the more common of the two, and is used by much
more interesting people (if you know what I mean...) Ok, the first thing
you want to do when you are receiving carrier from a dec system is to find
out the format of login names. You can do this by looking at who is on the
system.
Dec=> ` (the 'exec' level prompt)
you=> sy
sy is short for sy(stat) and shows you the system status.
You should see the format of login names...
A systat usually comes up in this form:
job line program user
job: the job number (not important unless you want to log them off later)
line: what line they are on (used to talk to them...)
These are both two or three digit numbers.
Program: what program are they running under? If it says 'exec'
they aren't doing anything at all...
User: ahhhahhhh! This is the user name they are logged in under...
Copy the format, and hack yourself outa working code... Login format is as
such:
dec=> `
you=> login username password
username is the username in the format you saw above in the systat.
After you hit the space after your username, it will stop echoing
characters back to your screen. This is the password you are typing in...
Remember, people usually use their name, their dog's name, the name of a
favorite character in a book, or something like this. A few clever
people have it set to a key cluster (qwerty or asdfg). Pw's can be from 1
to 8 characters long, anything after that is ignored. You are finally in...
It would be nice to have a little help, wouldn't it? Just type a ? Or the
word help, and it will give you a whole list of topics...
Some handy characters for you to know would be the control keys,
wouldn't it? Backspace on a dec 20 is rub which is 255 on your ascii chart.
On the dec 10 it is cntrl-h. To abort a long listing or a program,
cntrl-c works fine. Use cntrl-o to stop long output to the terminal.
This is handy when playing a game, but you don't want to cntrl-c out.
Cntrl-t for the time. Cntrl-u will kill the whole line you are typing at
the moment. You may accidently run a program where the only way out is
a cntrl-x, so keep that in reserve. Cntrl-s to stop listing, cntrl-q to
continue on both systems. Is your terminal having trouble??
Like, it pauses for no reason, or it doesn't backspace right? This is
because both systems support many terminals, and you haven't told it what
yours is yet... You are using a vt05
so you need to tell it you are one.
Dec=> `
you=> information terminal
or...
You=> info
this shows you what your terminal is set up as...
Dec=>all sorts of shit, then the `
you=> set ter vt05 this sets your terminal
type to vt05.
Now let's see what is in the account (here after abbreviated acct.)
that you have hacked onto... Say
=> dir
short for directory, it shows
you what the user of the code has save to the disk. There should be a format
like this: xxxxx.Oooxxxxx is the file name, from 1 to 20 characters
long. Ooo is the file type, one of: exe, txt, dat, bas, cmd and a few
others that are system dependant.
Exe is a compiled program that can be run (just by typing its name at the `).
Txt is a text file, which you can see by
typing=>
type xxxxx.Txt
Do not try to=>
type xxxxx.Exe this is very bad for your terminal and will tell you
absolutly nothing.
Dat is data they have saved.
Bas is a basic program, you can have it typed out for you.
Cmd is a command type file, a little too
complicated to go into here.
Try =>
take xxxxx.Cmd
By the way, there are other users out there who may have files you can use
(gee, why else am I here?).
Type => dir <*.*> (Dec 20)
=> dir [*,*] (dec 10)
* is a wildcard, and will allow you to access the files on other accounts
if the user has it set for public access. If it isn't set for public access,
then you won't see it. To run that program:
dec=> `
you=> username program-name
username is the directory you saw the
file listed under, and file name was
what else but the file name?
** You are not alone **
remember, you said (at the very start) sy short for systat,
and how we said this showed the other users on the system? Well, you
can talk to them, or at least send a message to anyone you see listed in a
systat. You can do this by:
dec=> the user list (from your systat)
you=> talkusername (dec 20)
send username (dec 10)
talk allows you and them immediate transmission of whatever you/they type
to be sent to the other. Send only allow you one message to be sent, and
send, they will send back to you, with talk you can just keep going. By the
way, you may be noticing with the talk command that what you type is still
acted upon by the parser (control program). To avoid the constant error
messages type either:
you=> ;your message
you=> rem your message
the semi-colon tells the parser that what follows is just a comment. Rem
is short for 'remark' and ignores you from then on until you type a cntrl-z
or cntrl-c, at which point it puts you back in the exec mode. To break the
connection from a talk command type:
you=> break priv's:
if you happen to have privs, you can do all sorts of things.
First of all, you have to activate those privs.
You=> enable
this gives you a $ prompt, and allows you to do this:
whatever you can do to your own directory you can now do to any
other directory. To create a new acct. Using your privs, just type
=>build username
if username is old, you can edit it, if it is new, you can
define it to be whatever you wish. Privacy means nothing to a user with
privs. By the way, there are various levels of privs: operator, wheel,
cia.
wheel is the most powerful, being that he can log in from anywhere and
have his powers.
Operators have their power because they are at a special terminal
allowing them the privs. Cia is short for 'confidential information
access', which allows you a low level amount of privs.
Not to worry though, since you can read the system log file, which also
has the passwords to all the other accounts.
To de-activate your privs, type
you=> disable
when you have played your greedy heart out, you can finally leave the
system with the command=>
logout
this logs the job you are using off the system (there may be varients
of this such as kjob, or killjob).
----------------Jolly Roger
Hacking DEC's by the Jolly Roger
In this article you will learn how to log in to dec's, logging out, and all
the fun stuff to do in-between. All of this information is based on a
standard dec system.
Since there are dec systems 10 and 20, and I favor, the dec 20,
there will be more info on them in this article. It just so happens
that the dec 20 is also the more common of the two, and is used by much
more interesting people (if you know what I mean...) Ok, the first thing
you want to do when you are receiving carrier from a dec system is to find
out the format of login names. You can do this by looking at who is on the
system.
Dec=> ` (the 'exec' level prompt)
you=> sy
sy is short for sy(stat) and shows you the system status.
You should see the format of login names...
A systat usually comes up in this form:
job line program user
job: the job number (not important unless you want to log them off later)
line: what line they are on (used to talk to them...)
These are both two or three digit numbers.
Program: what program are they running under? If it says 'exec'
they aren't doing anything at all...
User: ahhhahhhh! This is the user name they are logged in under...
Copy the format, and hack yourself outa working code... Login format is as
such:
dec=> `
you=> login username password
username is the username in the format you saw above in the systat.
After you hit the space after your username, it will stop echoing
characters back to your screen. This is the password you are typing in...
Remember, people usually use their name, their dog's name, the name of a
favorite character in a book, or something like this. A few clever
people have it set to a key cluster (qwerty or asdfg). Pw's can be from 1
to 8 characters long, anything after that is ignored. You are finally in...
It would be nice to have a little help, wouldn't it? Just type a ? Or the
word help, and it will give you a whole list of topics...
Some handy characters for you to know would be the control keys,
wouldn't it? Backspace on a dec 20 is rub which is 255 on your ascii chart.
On the dec 10 it is cntrl-h. To abort a long listing or a program,
cntrl-c works fine. Use cntrl-o to stop long output to the terminal.
This is handy when playing a game, but you don't want to cntrl-c out.
Cntrl-t for the time. Cntrl-u will kill the whole line you are typing at
the moment. You may accidently run a program where the only way out is
a cntrl-x, so keep that in reserve. Cntrl-s to stop listing, cntrl-q to
continue on both systems. Is your terminal having trouble??
Like, it pauses for no reason, or it doesn't backspace right? This is
because both systems support many terminals, and you haven't told it what
yours is yet... You are using a vt05
so you need to tell it you are one.
Dec=> `
you=> information terminal
or...
You=> info
this shows you what your terminal is set up as...
Dec=>all sorts of shit, then the `
you=> set ter vt05 this sets your terminal
type to vt05.
Now let's see what is in the account (here after abbreviated acct.)
that you have hacked onto... Say
=> dir
short for directory, it shows
you what the user of the code has save to the disk. There should be a format
like this: xxxxx.Oooxxxxx is the file name, from 1 to 20 characters
long. Ooo is the file type, one of: exe, txt, dat, bas, cmd and a few
others that are system dependant.
Exe is a compiled program that can be run (just by typing its name at the `).
Txt is a text file, which you can see by
typing=>
type xxxxx.Txt
Do not try to=>
type xxxxx.Exe this is very bad for your terminal and will tell you
absolutly nothing.
Dat is data they have saved.
Bas is a basic program, you can have it typed out for you.
Cmd is a command type file, a little too
complicated to go into here.
Try =>
take xxxxx.Cmd
By the way, there are other users out there who may have files you can use
(gee, why else am I here?).
Type => dir <*.*> (Dec 20)
=> dir [*,*] (dec 10)
* is a wildcard, and will allow you to access the files on other accounts
if the user has it set for public access. If it isn't set for public access,
then you won't see it. To run that program:
dec=> `
you=> username program-name
username is the directory you saw the
file listed under, and file name was
what else but the file name?
** You are not alone **
remember, you said (at the very start) sy short for systat,
and how we said this showed the other users on the system? Well, you
can talk to them, or at least send a message to anyone you see listed in a
systat. You can do this by:
dec=> the user list (from your systat)
you=> talkusername (dec 20)
send username (dec 10)
talk allows you and them immediate transmission of whatever you/they type
to be sent to the other. Send only allow you one message to be sent, and
send, they will send back to you, with talk you can just keep going. By the
way, you may be noticing with the talk command that what you type is still
acted upon by the parser (control program). To avoid the constant error
messages type either:
you=> ;your message
you=> rem your message
the semi-colon tells the parser that what follows is just a comment. Rem
is short for 'remark' and ignores you from then on until you type a cntrl-z
or cntrl-c, at which point it puts you back in the exec mode. To break the
connection from a talk command type:
you=> break priv's:
if you happen to have privs, you can do all sorts of things.
First of all, you have to activate those privs.
You=> enable
this gives you a $ prompt, and allows you to do this:
whatever you can do to your own directory you can now do to any
other directory. To create a new acct. Using your privs, just type
=>build username
if username is old, you can edit it, if it is new, you can
define it to be whatever you wish. Privacy means nothing to a user with
privs. By the way, there are various levels of privs: operator, wheel,
cia.
wheel is the most powerful, being that he can log in from anywhere and
have his powers.
Operators have their power because they are at a special terminal
allowing them the privs. Cia is short for 'confidential information
access', which allows you a low level amount of privs.
Not to worry though, since you can read the system log file, which also
has the passwords to all the other accounts.
To de-activate your privs, type
you=> disable
when you have played your greedy heart out, you can finally leave the
system with the command=>
logout
this logs the job you are using off the system (there may be varients
of this such as kjob, or killjob).
----------------Jolly Roger
Harmless Bombs by the Jolly Roger
To all those who do not wish to inflict bodily damage on their victims
but only terror.
These are weapons that should be used from high places.
1) The flour bomb.
Take a wet paper towel and pour a given amount of baking flour in
the center. Then wrap it up and put on a rubber band to keep it
together. When thrown it will fly well but when it hits, it covers
the victim with the flower or causes a big puff of flour which will
put the victim in terror since as far as they are concerned, some
strange white powder is all over them. This is a cheap method of
terror and for only the cost of a roll of paper towels and a bag of
flour you and your friends can have loads of fun watching people
flee in panic.
2) Smoke bomb projectile.
All you need is a bunch of those little round smoke bombs and a
wrist rocket or any sling-shot. Shoot the smoke bombs and watch the
terror since they think it will blow up!
3) Rotten eggs (good ones)
Take some eggs and get a sharp needle
and poke a small hole in the top of each one.
Then let them sit in a warm place for about a week. Then you've got a
bunch of rotten eggs that will only smell when they hit.
4) Glow in the dark terror.
Take one of those tubes of glow in the dark stuff and pour the
stuff on whatever you want to throw and when it gets on the victim,
they think it's some deadly chemical or a radioactive substance so
they run in total panic. This works especially well with flower
bombs since a gummy, glowing substance gets all over the victim.
5) Fizzling panic.
Take a baggie of a water-baking soda solution and seal it. (Make
sure there is no air in it since the solution will form a gas and
you don't want it to pop on you.) Then put it in a bigger plastic
bag and fill it with vinegar and seal it. When thrown, the two
substances will mix and cause a violently bubbling substance to go
all over the victim.
---------------Jolly Roger
Breaking Into Houses by the Jolly Roger
Okay You Need:
1. Tear Gas or Mace
2. A BB/Pelet Gun
3. An Ice Pick
4. Thick Gloves
What You Do Is:
1. Call the ###-#### of the house, or ring doorbell, To find out if
they're home.
2. If they're not home then...
3. Jump over the fence or walk through gate (whatever).
4. If you see a dog give him the mace or tear gas.
5. Put the gloves on!!!!!!!
6. Shoot the BB gun slightly above the window locks.
7. Push the ice-pick through the hole (made by the BB gun).
8. Enter window.
9. FIRST...Find the LIVING ROOM. (they're neat things there!).
10. Then goto the Bed-room to get a pillow case. Put the goodies in
the pillow case.
11. Get out <-* FAST! -*>
Notes: You should have certian targets worked out (like computers,
Radios, Ect.,Ect.). Also <-* NEVER *-> Steal from your own
neigborhood. If you think they have an alarm...<-* FORGET IT! *->.
---------------Jolly Roger
A Guide to Hypnotism Courtesy of the Jolly Roger
(Originally an Apple ][ file, forgive the uppercase!)
+-------------------+
! WHAT HYPNOTISM IS !
+-------------------+
HYPNOTISM, CONTRARY TO COMMON BELEIF, IS MERELY STATE WHEN YOUR MIND AND
BODY ARE IN A STATE OF RELAXATION AND YOUR MIND IS OPEN TO POSITIVE, OR
CLEVERLY WORDED NEGATIVE, INFLUENCES. IT IS NOT A TRANCE WHERE YOU:
> ARE TOTALLY INFLUENCABLE.
> CANNOT LIE.
> A SLEEP WHICH YOU CANNOT WAKE UP FROM
WITHOUT HELP.
THIS MAY BRING DOWN YOUR HOPE SOMEWHAT, BUT, HYPNOTISM IS A POWERFUL FOR
SELF HELP, AND/OR MISCHEIF.
+-----------------------+
! YOUR SUBCONCIOUS MIND !
+-----------------------+
BEFORE GOING IN FURTHER, I'D LIKE TO STATE THAT HYPNOTISM NOT ONLY IS
GREAT IN THE WAY THAT IT RELAXES YOU AND GETS YOU (IN THE LONG RUN) WHAT
YOU WANT, BUT ALSO THAT IT TAPS A FORCE OF INCREDIBLE POWER, BELEIVE IT OR
NOT, THIS POWER IS YOUR SUBCONCIOUS MIND.
THE SUBCONCIOUS MIND ALWAYS KNOWS WHAT IS GOING ON WITH EVERY PART OF YOUR BODY,
EVERY MOMENT OF THE DAY. IT PROTECTS YOU FROM NEGATIVE INFLUENCES,
AND RETAINS THE POWER TO SLOW YOUR HEARTBEAT DOWN AND STUFF LIKE THAT.
THE SUBCONCIOUS MIND HOLDS JUST ABOUT ALL THE INFO YOU WOULD LIKE TO KNOW
ABOUT YOURSELF, OR, IN THIS CASE, THE PERSON YOU WILL BE HYPNOTISING.
THERE ARE MANY WAYS TO TALK TO YOUR SUBCONCIOUS AND HAVE IT TALK BACK TO
YOU. ONE WAY IS THE OUJA BOARD, NO ITS NOT A SPIRIT, MERELY THE
MINDS OF THOSE WHO ARE USING IT. ANOTHER, WHICH I WILL DISCUSS HERE,
IS THE PENDULUM METHOD. OK, HERE IS HOW IT GOES.
FIRST, GET A RING OR A WASHER AND TIE IT TO A THREAD A LITTLE LONGER THAN
HALF OF YOUR FOREARM. NOW, TAKE A SHEET OF PAPER AND DRAW A BIG CIRCLE IN
IT. IN THE BIG CIRCLE YOU MUST NOW DRAW A CROSSHAIR (A BIG +). NOW, PUT
THE SHEET OF PAPER ON A TABLE. NEXT, HOLD THE THREAD WITH THE RING OR
WASHER ON IT AND PLACE IT (HOLDING THE THREAD SO THAT THE RING IS 1 INCH
ABOVE THE PAPER SWINGING) IN THE MIDDLE OF THE CROSSHAIR. NOW, SWING
THE THREAD SO THE WASHER GOES UP AND DOWN, SAY TO YOURSELF THE WORD "YES"
NOW, DO IT SIDE TO SIDE AND SAY THE WORD "NO".
DO IT COUNTER CLOCKWISE AND SAY "I DON'T KNOW".
AND LASTLY, DO IT CLOCKWISE AND SAY "I DONT WANT TO SAY." NOW, WITH THE
THREAD BACK IN THE MIDDLE OF THE CROSSHAIR, ASK YOURSELF QUESTIONS AND
WAIT FOR THE PENDULUM TO SWING IN THE DIRECTION FOR THE ANSWER. (YES, NO,
I DONT KNOW OR I DONT WANNA SAY...). SOON, TO YOUR AMAZEMENT, IT WILL BE
ANSWERING QUESTIONS LIKE ANYTHING... LET THE PENDULUM ANSWER, DONT TRY..
WHEN YOU TRY YOU WILL NEVER GET AN ANSWER. LET THE ANSWER COME TO YOU.
+-------------------------+
! HOW TO INDUCE HYPNOTISM !
+-------------------------+
NOW THAT YOU KNOW HOW TO TALK TO YOUR SUBCONCIOUS MIND, I WILL NOW TELL YOU
HOW TO GUIDE SOMEONE INTO HYPNOSIS. NOTE THAT I SAID GUIDE, YOU CAN NEVER,
HYNOTISE SOMEONE, THEY MUST BE WILLING. OK, THE SUBJECT MUST BE LYING OR
SITTING IN A COMFORTABLE POSITION, RELAXED, AND AT A TIME WHEN THINGS ARENT
GOING TO BE INTERRUPTED.
TELL THEM THE FOLLOWING OR SOMETHING CLOSE TO IT, IN A PEACEFUL, MONOTINOUS
TONE (NOT A COMMANDING TONE OF VOICE)
NOTE: LIGHT A CANDLE AND PLACE IT SOMEWHERE WHERE IT CAN BE EASILY SEEN.
TAKE A DEEP BREATH THROUGH YOUR NOSE AND HOLD IT IN FOR A COUNT OF 8. NOW,
THROUGH YOUR MOUTH, EXHALE COMPLETELY AND SLOWLY. CONTINUED BREATHING LONG,
DEEP, BREATHS THROUGH YOUR NOSE AND EXHALING THROUGH YOUR MOUTH. TENSE UP
ALL YOUR MUSCLES VERY TIGHT, NOW, COUNTING FROM TEN TO ONE, RELEASE THEM
SLOWLY, YOU WILL FIND THEM VERY RELAXED. NOW, LOOK AT THE CANDLE, AS
YOU LOOK AT IT, WITH EVERY BREATH AND PASSING MOMEMENT, YOU ARE FEELING
INCREASINGLY MORE AND MORE PEACEFUL AND RELAXED. THE CANDLES FLAME IS
PEACEFUL AND BRIGHT.
AS YOU LOOK AT IT I WILL COUNT FROM 100 DOWN, AS A COUNT, YOUR EYES WILL
BECOME MORE AND MORE RELAXED, GETTING MORE AND MORE TIRED WITH EACH
PASSING MOMENT."
NOW, COUNT DOWN FROM 100, ABOUT EVERY 10 NUMBERS SAY "WHEN I REACH XX YOUR
EYES (OR YOU WILL FIND YOUR EYES) ARE BECOMING MORE AND MORE TIRED." TELL
THEM THEY MAY CLOSE THEIR EYES WHENEVER THEY FEEL LIKE IT. IF THE PERSONS
EYES ARE STILL OPEN WHEN YOU GET TO 50 THEN INSTEAD OF SAYING
"YOUR EYES WILL.."
SAY "YOUR EYES ARE...".
WHEN THEIR EYES ARE SHUT SAY THE FOLLOWING. AS YOU LIE (OR SIT) HERE WITH
YOUR EYES COMFORTABLY CLOSE YOU FIND YOURSELF RELAXING MORE AND
MORE WITH EACH MOMENT AND BREATH.
THE RELAXATION FEELS PLEASANT AND BLISSFUL SO, YOU HAPPILY GIVE WAY TO
THIS WONDERFUL FEELING. IMAGINGE YOURSELF ON A CLOUD, RESTING PEACEFULLY,
WITH A SLIGHT BREEZE CARESSING YOUR BODY. A TINGLING SENSASION BEGINS
TO WORK ITS WAY, WITHIN AND WITHOUT YOUR TOES, IT SLOWLY MOVES UP YOUR
FEET, MAKING THEM WARM, HEAVY AND RELAXED. THE CLOUD IS SOFT AND SUPPORTS
YOUR BODY WITH ITS SOFT TEXTURE, THE SCENE IS PEACEFUL AND ABSORBING,
THE PEACEFULNESS ABSORBS YOU COMPLETELY...
THE TINGLING GENTLY AND SLOWLY MOVES UP YOUR LEGS, RELAXING THEM.
MAKING THEM WARM AND HEAVY. THE RELAXATION FEELS VERY GOOD, IT FEELS SO
GOOD TO RELAX AND LET GO. AS THE TINGLING CONTINUES ITS JOURNEY UP INTO
YOUR SOLAR PLEXUS, YOU FEEL YOUR INNER STOMACH BECOME VERY RELAXED. NOW,
IT MOVES SLOWLY INTO YOUR CHEST, MAKING YOUR BREATHING RELAXED AS WELL.
THE FEELING BEGINS TO MOVE UP YOUR ARMS TO YOUR SHOULDERS, MAKING YOUR ARMS
HEAVY AND RELAXED AS WELL. YOU ARE AWARE OF THE TOTAL RELAXATION YOU ARE
NOW EXPERIENCING, AND YOU GIVE WAY TO IT. IT IS GOOD AND PEACEFUL, THE
TINGLING NOW MOVEVES INTO YOUR FACE AND HEAD, RELAXING YOUR JAWS, NECK, AND
FACIAL MUSCLES, MAKING YOUR CARES AND WORRIES FLOAT AWAY. AWAY INTO THE
BLUE SKY AS YOU REST BLISFUlLY ON THE CLOUD....
IF THEY ARE NOT RESPONSIVE OR YOU THINK THEY (HE OR SHE..) IS GOING TO
SLEEP, THEN ADD IN A "...ALWAYS CONCENTRATING UPON MY VOICE, INGORING ALL
OTHER SOUNDS. EVEN THOUGH OTHER SOUNDS EXSIST, THEY AID YOU IN YOUR
RELAXATION..." THEY SHOULD SOON LET OUT A SIGH AS IF THEY WERE LETTING GO,
AND THEIR FACE SHOULD HAVE A "WOODENESS" TO IT, BECOMING FEATURLESS... NOW,
SAY THE FOLLOWING ".... YOU NOW FIND YOURSELF IN A HALLWAY, THE HALLWAY IS
PEACEFUL AND NICE. AS I COUNT FROM 10 TO 1 YOU WILL IMAGINE YOURSELF
WALKING FURTHER AND FURTHER DOWN THE HALL. WHEN I REACH ONE YOU WILL FIND
YOURSELF WHERE YOU WANT TO BE, IN ANOTHER, HIGHER STATE OF CONCIOUS AND
MIND. (COUNT FROM TEN TO ONE)....." DO THIS ABOUT THREE OR FOUR TIMES.
THEN, TO TEST IF THE SUBJECT IS UNDER HYPNOSIS OR NOT, SAY....
"...YOU FEEL A STRANGE SENSATION IN YOUR (ARM THEY WRITE WITH) ARM, THE
FEELING BEGINS AT YOUR FINGERS AND SLOWLY MOVES UP YOUR ARM, AS IT MOVES
THROUGH YOUR ARM YOUR ARM BECOMES LIGHTER AND LIGHTER, IT WILL SOON BE SO
LIGHT IT WILL ..... BECOMING LIGHTER AND LIGHTER WHICH EACH BREATH AND
MOMENT..."
THEIR FINGERS SHOULD BEGIN TO TWITCH AND THEN MOVE UP, THE ARM FOLLOWING,
NOW MY FRIEND, YOU HAVE HIM/HEP IN HYPNOSIS. THE FIRST TIME YOU DO THIS,
WHILE HE/SHE IS UNDER SAY GOOD THINGS, LIKE: "YOUR GOING TO FEEL GREAT
TOMORROW" OR "EVERY DAY IN EVERY WAY YOU WILL FIND YOURSELF BECOMING BETTER
AND BETTER".. OR SOME CRAP LIKE THAT... THE MORE THEY GO UNDER, THE DEEPER
IN HYPNOSIS THEY WILL GET EACH TIME YOU DO IT.
+----------------------------+
! WHAT TO DO WHEN HYPNOTISED !
+----------------------------+
WHEN YOU HAVE THEM UNDER YOU MUST WORD THINGS VERY CAREFULLY TO GET YOUR
WAY. YOU CANNOT SIMPLY SAY... TAKE OFF YOUR CLOTHES AND FUCK THE PILLOW.
NO, THAT WOULD NOT REALLY DO THE TRICK. YOU MUST SAY SOMETHING LIKE....
"YOU FIND YOUR SELF AT HOME, IN YOUR ROOM AND YOU HAVE TO TAKE A SHOWER
(VIVIDLY DESCRIBE THEIR ROOM AND WHATS HAPPENING), YOU BEGIN TO TAKE OFF
YOUR CLOTHES..." NOW, IT CANT BE THAT SIMPLE, YOU MUST KNOW THE PERSONS
HOUSE, ROOM, AND SHOWER ROOM. THEN DESCRIBE THINGS VIVIDLY AND TELL THEM
TO ACT IT OUT (THEY HAVE TO BE DEEPLY UNDER TO DO THIS...). I WOULD JUST
SUGGEST THAT YOU EXPERIMENT A WHILE, AND GET TO KNOW HO; TO DO THINGS.
+-----------+
! WAKING UP !
+-----------+
WAKING UP IS VERY EASY, JUST SAY.. "...AS I COUNT FROM 1 TO 5 YOU WILL
FIND YOURSELF BECOMMING MORE AND MORE AWAKE, MORE AND MORE LIVELY. WHEN
YOU WAKE UP YOU WILL FIND YOURSELF COMPLETELY ALIVE, AWAKE, AND REFRESHED.
MENTALLY AND PHYSICALLY, REMEMBERING THE PLEASANT SENSATION THAT HYPNOSIS
BRINGS... WAKING UP FEELING LIKE A NEW BORN BABY, REBORN WITH LIFE AND
VIGOR, FEELING EXCELLENT. REMEMBERING THAT NEXT TIME YOU ENTER HYPNOSIS IT
WILL BECOME AN EVER INCREASING DEEPER AND DEEPER STATE THAN BEFORE.
1- YOU FEEL ENERGY COURSE THROUGHOUT YOUR LIMBS.
2- YOU BEGIN TO BREATHE DEEPLY, STIRRING.
3- BEGINING TO MOVE MORE AND MORE YOUR EYES OPEN, BRINGING YOU UP TO
FULL CONCIOUS.
4- YOU ARE UP,UP, UP AND AWAKENING MORE AND MORE.
5- YOU ARE AWAKE AND FEELING GREAT."
AND THATS IT! YOU NOW KNOW HOW TO HYPNOTISE YOURSELF AND SOMEONE ELSE.
YOU WILL LEARN MORE AND MORE AS YOU EXPERIMENT.
------------------Jolly Roger
##########################################################################
# #
# The Remote Informer #
# #
#------------------------------------------------------------------------#
# Reader supported newsletter for the underworld #
#------------------------------------------------------------------------#
# #
# Editors: Tracker and Norman Bates #
# #
#========================================================================#
# September 1987 Issue: 01 #
#========================================================================#
# The Headlines #
#------------------------------------------------------------------------#
# 1) Introduction #
# 2) Hacking Sprint: The Easy Way #
# 3) Rumors: Why spread them? #
# 4) The New Sprint FON Calling Cards #
# 5) Automatic Number Identifier (ANI) #
##########################################################################
Introduction
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Welcome to the first issue of 'The Remote Informer'! This newsletter
is reader supported. If the readers of this newsletter do not help
support it, then it will end. We are putting this out to help out the
ones that would like to read it. If you are one of those who thinks they
know everything, then don't bother reading it. This newsletter is not
anything like the future issues. The future issues will contain several
sections, as long as reader input is obtained. Below is an outline
overview of the sections in the future issues.
I/O Board (Input/Output Board)
The I/O Board is for questions you have, that we might be able to
answer or atleast refer you to someone or something. We will be honest if
we cannot help you. We will not make up something, or to the effect, just
to make it look like we answered you. There will be a section in the I/O
Board for questions we cannot answer, and then the readers will have the
opportunity to answer it. We will print anything that is reasonable in
the newsletter, even complaints if you feel like you are better than
everyone.
NewsCenter
This section will be for news around the underworld. It will talk of
busts of people in the underworld and anything else that would be
considered news. If you find articles in the paper, or something happens
in your local area, type it up, and upload it to one of the boards listed
at the end of the newsletter. Your handle will be placed in the article.
If you do enter a news article, please state the date and from where you
got it.
Feature Section
The Feature Section will be the largest of the sections as it will be
on the topic that is featured in that issue. This will be largely reader
input which will be sent in between issues. At the end of the issue at
hand, it will tell the topic of the next issue, therefore, if you have
something to contribute, then you will have ample time to prepare your
article.
Hardware/Software Review
In this section, we will review the good and bad points of hardware
and software related to the underworld. It will be an extensive review,
rather than just a small paragraph.
The Tops
This section will be the area where the top underworld BBS's, hacking
programs, modem scanners, etc. will be shown. This will be reader
selected and will not be altered in anyway. The topics are listed below.
Underworld BBS's (Hack, Phreak, Card, Anarchy, etc.)
Hacking programs for Hayes compatables
Hacking programs for 1030/Xm301 modems
Modem scanners for Hayes compatables
Modem scanners for 1030/Xm301 modems
Other type illegal programs
You may add topics to the list if enough will support it.
Tid Bits
This will contain tips and helpful information sent in by the users.
If you have any information you wish to contribute, then put it in a text
file and upload it to one of the BBS's listed at the end of the
newsletter.
Please, no long distance codes, mainframe passwords, etc.
We may add other sections as time goes by. This newsletter will not
be put out on a regular basis. It will be put out when we have enough
articles and information to put in it. There may be up to 5 a month, but
there will always be at least one a month. We would like you, the readers,
to send us anything you feel would be of interest to others, like hacking
hints, methods of hacking long distance companies, companies to card from,
etc. We will maintain the newsletter as long as the readers support it.
That is the end of the introduction, but take a look at this newsletter,
as it does contain information that may be of value to you.
==========================================================================
Hacking Sprint: The Easy Way
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
By: Tracker
If you hack US Sprint, 950-0777 (by the way it is no longer GTE
Sprint), and you are fustrated at hacking several hours only to find one
or two codes, then follow these tips, and it will increase your results
tremendously. First, one thing that Mr. Mojo proved is that Sprint will
not store more than one code in every hundred numbers. (ex: 98765400 to
98765499 may contain only one code). There may NOT be a code in that
hundred, but there will never be more than one.
Sprint's 9 digit codes are stored from 500000000 through 999999999.
In the beginning of Sprint's 950 port, they only had 8 digit codes. Then
they started converting to 9 digit codes, storing all 8 digit codes
between 10000000 and 49999999 and all 9 digit codes between 500000000 and
999999999. Sprint has since cancelled most 8 digit codes, although there
are a few left that have been denoted as test codes. Occaisionally, I
hear of phreaks saying they have 8 digit codes, but when verifying them,
the codes were invalid.
Now, where do you start? You have already narrowed the low and high
numbers in half, therefore already increasing your chances of good results
by 50 percent. The next step is to find a good prefix to hack. By the
way, a prefix, in hacking terms, is the first digits in a code that can be
any length except the same number of digits the code is. (ex: 123456789
is a code. That means 1, 12, 123, 1234, 12345, 123456, 1234567, and
12345678 are prefixes) The way you find a good prefix to hack is to
manually enter a code prefix. If when you enter the code prefix and a
valid destination number and you do not hear the ringing of the recording
telling you that the code is invalid until near the end of the number,
then you know the prefix is valid. Here is a chart to follow when doing
this:
Code - Destination Range good codes exist
-------------------------------------------------
123456789 - 6192R 123400000 - 123499999
123456789 - 619267R 123450000 - 123459999
123456789 - 61926702R 123456000 - 123456999
123456789 - 6192670293R 123456700 - 123456799
-------------------------------------------------
( R - Denotes when ring for recording starts)
To prove
this true, I ran a test using OmniHack 1.3p, written by
Jolly Joe. In this test I found a prefix where the last 3 digits were all
I had to hack. I tested each hundred of the 6 digit prefix finding that
all but 4 had the ring start after the fourth digit was dialed in the
destination number. The other four did not ring until I had finished the
entire code. I set OmniHack to hack the prefix + 00 until prefix + 99.
(ex: xxxxxxy00 to xxxxxxy99: where y is one of the four numbers that the
ring did not start until the dialing was completed.) Using this method, I
found four codes in a total of 241 attempts using ascending hacking (AKA:
Sequential). Below you will see a record of my hack:
Range of hack Codes found Tries
----------------------------------------------
xxxxxx300 - xxxxxx399 xxxxxx350 50
xxxxxx500 - xxxxxx599 xxxxxx568 68
xxxxxx600 - xxxxxx699 xxxxxx646 46
xxxxxx800 - xxxxxx899 xxxxxx877 77
----------------------------------------------
Totals 4 codes 241
As you see, these methods work. Follow these guidlines and tips and
you should have an increase in production of codes in the future hacking
Sprint. Also, if you have any hints/tips you think others could benefit
from, then type them up and upload them to one of the boards at the end of
the newsletter.
==========================================================================
Rumors: Why Spread Them?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
By: Tracker
Do you ever get tired of hearing rumors? You know, someone gets an
urge to impress others, so they create a rumor that some long distance
company is now using tracing equipment. Why start rumors? It only scares
others out of phreaking, and then makes you, the person who started the
rumor, look like Mr. Big. This article is short, but it should make you
aware of the rumors that people spread for personal gain. The best thing
to do is to denote them as a rumor starter and then leave it at that. You
should not rag on them constantly, since if the other users cannot
determine if it is fact or rumor, then they should suffer the
consequences.
==========================================================================
The New Sprint FON Calling Cards
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
By: Tracker
US Sprint has opened up a new long distance network called the Fiber
Optic Network (FON), in which subscribers are given calling cards. These
calling cards are 14 digits, and though, seem randomly generated, they are
actually encrypted. The rumors floating around about people getting
caught using the Sprint FON calling cards are fact, not rumors. The
reason people are getting caught is that they confuse the FON calling
cards with the local 950 port authorization codes. If you will remember,
you never use AT&T calling cards from you home phone. It has ANI
capability, which is not tracing, but rather the originating phone number
is placed on the bill as soon as the call is completed. They know your
phone number when you call the 800 access port, but they do not record it
until your call is completed. Also, through several of my hacks, I came
up with some interesting information surrounding the new Sprint network.
They are listed below.
800-877-0000
This number is for information on US Sprint's 800 calling card
service. I have not played around with it, but I believe it is for
trouble or help with the FON calling cards. I am not sure if it is for
subscribing to the FON network.
800-877-0002 - You hear a short tone, then nothing.
800-877-0003 - US Sprint Alpha Test Channel #1
800-877-(0004-0999)
When you call these numbers, you get a recording saying: "Welcome to
US Sprint's 1 plus service." When the recording stops, if you hit the
pound key (#) you will get the calling card dial tone.
Other related Sprint numbers
800-521-4949 This is the number that you subscribe to US Sprint with.
You may also subscribe to the FON network on this number. It will take 4
to 5 weeks for your calling card to arrive.
10777
This is US Sprint's equal access number. When you dial this number,
you then dial the number you are calling, and it will be billed through US
Sprint, and you will receive their long distance line for that call. Note
that you will be billed for calls made through equal access. Do not
mistake it to be a method of phreaking, unless used from a remote
location.
If you are in US Sprint's 1+ service then call 1+700-555-1414, which
will tell you which long distance company you are using. When you hear:
"Thank you for choosing US Sprint's 1 plus service," hit the pound key
(#), and then you will get the US Sprint dial tone. This however is just
the same as if you are calling from your home phone if you dial direct, so
you would be billed for calls made through that, but there are ways to use
this to your advantage as in using equal access through a PBX.
==========================================================================
Automatic Number Identification (ANI)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
By: Tracker
The true definition for Automatic Number Identification has not been
widely known to many. Automatic Number Identification, (AKA: ANI), is the
process of the destination number knowing the originating number, which is
where you are calling from. The method of achieving this is to send the
phone number that you are calling from in coded form ahead of the
destination number. Below is an example of this.
ANI Method
Dial: 267-0293
Sent: ********2670293
* - Denotes the originating number which is coded and sent before the
number
As you noticed there are 8 digits in the coded number. This is
because, at least I believe, it is stored in a binary-like form.
Automatic Number Identification means a limited future in phreaking. ANI
does not threaten phreaking very much yet, but it will in the near future.
A new switching system will soon be installed in most cities that are
covered by ESS, Electronic Switching System, now.
The system will have ANI capabilities which will be supplied to the
owners of phone lines as anadded extra. The owner's phone will have
an LED read-out that will show the phone number of the people that
call you. You will be able to block some numbers, so that people
cannot call you. This system is in the testing stages currently, but will
soon be installed across most of the country. As you see, this will
end a large part of phreaking, until we, the phreakers, can come up with
an alternative. As I have been told by several, usually reliable,
people, this system is called ISS, which I am not sure of the meaning of
this, and is being tested currently in Rhode Island.
800 in-watts lines set up by AT&T support ANI. The equipment to
decode an ANI coded origination number does not costs as much as you would
expect. 950 ports do not offer ANI capability, no matter what you have
been told. The 950 ports will only give the city in which they are based,
this usually being the largest in the state, sometimes the capitol.
One last thing that I should tell you is that ANI is not related to
tracing. Tracing can be done on any number whether local, 950, etc. One
way around this, especially when dialing Alliance TeleConferencing, is to
dial through several extenders or ports. ANI will only cover the number
that is calling it, and if you call through a number that does not support
ANI, then your number will never be known.
==========================================================================
The Disclaimer!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
We, the editors, take no responsibility for your actions and use of
the information in this newsletter. This newsletter is for informational
purposes only. There will never be any long distance codes, passwords,
etc. in this newsletter. If you are easily offended by telecommunication
discussions, then we suggest that you not read this newsletter. But for
those who are truely interested in the information in this newsletter,
enjoy it.
Brought to you in Cookbook, courtesy of the Jolly Roger!!!!!!!!!!
Jackpotting ATM Machines courtesy of the Jolly Roger
JACKPOTTING was done rather successfully a while back in (you guessed it)
New York. What the culprits did was:
Sever (actually cross over) the line between the ATM and the
host. insert a microcomputer between the ATM and the host. insert
a fradulent card into the ATM. (card=cash card, not hardware)
What the ATM did was: send a signal to the host, saying "Hey! Can I
give this guy money, or is he broke, or is his card invalid?"
What the microcomputer did was: intercept the signal from the host,
discard it, send "there's no one using the ATM" signal.
What the host did was: get the "no one using" signal, send back "okay,
then for God's sake don't spit out any money!" signal to ATM.
What the microcomputer did was:
intercept signal (again), throw it away (again), send "Wow! That
guy is like TOO rich! Give him as much money as he wants. In
fact, he's so loaded, give him ALL the cash we have! He is
really a valued customer." signal.
What the ATM did:
what else? Obediently dispense cash till the cows came home (or
very nearly so).
What the crooks got:
well in excess of $120,000 (for one weekend's work), and several
years when they were caught.
This story was used at a CRYPTOGRAPHY conference I attended a while
ago to demonstrate the need for better information security. The
lines between ATM's & their hosts are usually 'weak' in the sense that
the information transmitted on them is generally not encrypted in any
way. One of the ways that JACKPOTTING can be defeated is to encrypt
the information passing between the ATM and the host. As long as the
key cannot be determined from the ciphertext, the transmission (and
hence the transaction) is secure.
A more believable, technically accurate story might concern a person
who uses a computer between the ATM and the host to determine the key
before actually fooling the host. As everyone knows, people find
cryptanalysis a very exciting and engrossing subject...don't they?
(Hee-Hee)
_____ ______
| |-<<-| |-<<-| |
|ATM| micro |Host|
|___|->>-| |->>-|____|
The B of A ATM's are connected through dedicated lines to a host
computer as the Bishop said. However, for maintenance purposes, there
is at least one separate dial-up line also going to that same host
computer. This guy basically bs'ed his way over the phone till he
found someone stupid enough to give him th number. After finding that,
he had has Apple hack at the code. Simple.
Step 2: He had a friend go to an ATM with any B of A ATM card. He
stayed at home with the Apple connected to the host. When his friend
inserted the card, the host displayed it. The guy with the Apple
modified the status & number of the card directly in the host's
memory. He turned the card into a security card, used for testing
purposes. At that point, the ATM did whatever it's operator told it to
do.
The next day, he went into the bank with the $2000 he received,
talked to the manager and told him every detail of what he'd done. The
manager gave him his business card and told him that he had a job
waiting for him when he got out of school.
Now, B of A has been warned, they might have changed the system. On
the other hand, it'd be awful expensive to do that over the whole
country when only a handful of people have the resources and even less
have the intelligence to duplicate the feat. Who knows?
Jug Bomb by the Jolly Roger
Take a glass jug, and put 3 to 4 drops of gasoline into it. Then put
the cap on, and swish the gas around so the inner surface of the jug
is coated. Then add a few drops of potassium permanganate solution
into it and cap it. To blow it up, either throw it at something, or
roll it at something.
------------Jolly Roger
Fun at K-Mart by the Jolly Roger
Well, first off, one must realise the importance of K-Marts in
society today. First off, K-Marts provide things cheaper to those who
can't afford to shop at higher quality stores. Although, all I ever
see in there is minorities and Senior Citizens, and the poor people in
our city. Personally, I wouldn't be caught dead in there. But, once,
I did.
You see, once, after The Moon Roach and Havoc Chaos(Dear friends of
mine) and I were exploring such fun things as rooftops, we came along
a K-Mart. Amused, and cold for that matter, we wandered in. The
Tension mounts.
As we walked up to the entrance, we were nearly attacked by Youth
Groups selling cheap cookies, and wheelchair sticken people selling
American Flags. After laughing at these people, we entered. This is
where the real fun begins...
First, we wandered around the store, and turned on all the blue
lights we could find. That really distracts and confuses the
attendents...Fun to do...
The first neat thing, is to go to the section of the store where
they sell computers. Darkness engulf the earth the day they find Apple
Computers being sold there. Instead, lesser computers like the
laughable C-64 can be found there...Turn it on, and make sure
nobody's looking...Then, once in Basic, type...
]10 PRINT "Fuck the world! Anarchy Rules!" (or something to that
effect.)
]20 GOTO 10 and walk away.
Also, set the sample radios in the store to a santanic rock station,
and turn the radio off. Then, set the alarm for two minutes ahead of
the time displayed there. Turn the volume up all the way, and walk
away. After about two minutes, you will see the clerk feebly attempt
to turn the radio down or off. It's really neat to set ten or more
radios to different stations, and walk away.
One of my favorite things to do, is to get onto the intercom system
of the store. Easier typed then done. First, check out the garden
department. You say there's no attendent there? Good. Sneak
carefully over to the phone behind the cheap counter there, and pick
it up. Dial the number corrisponding to the item that says 'PAGE'...
And talk. You will note that your voice will echo all over the bowels
of K-Mart.
I would suggest announcing something on the lines of: "Anarchy
rules!!"
---------------Jolly Roger
Mace Substitute by the Jolly Roger
3 PARTS: Alcohol
1/2 PARTS: Iodine
1/2 PARTS: Salt
Or:
3 PARTS: Alcohol
1 PARTS: Iodized Salt (Mortons)
It's not actual mace, but it does a damn good job on the eyes...
--------------Jolly Roger
How to grow Marijuana courtesy of the Jolly Roger
MARIJUANA
Marijuana is a deciduous plant which grows from seeds. The fibrous section
of the plant was (has been replaced by synthetics) used to make rope.
The flowering tops, leaves, seeds, and resin of the plant is
used by just about everyone to get HIGH.
Normally, the vegetable parts of the plant are smoked to produce this
"high," but thay can also be eaten. The axtive ingredient in marijuana
resin is THC (tetahydrocannabinol). Marijuana contains from 1 - 4 per
cent THC (4 per cent must be considered GOOD dope).
Marijuana grows wild in many parts of the world, and is cultivated in
Mexice, Vietnam, Africa, Nepal, India, South America, etc.,etc. The
marijuana sold in the United States comes primarily from, yes, the
Uniited States.
It is estimated that at least 50 per cent of the grass on the streets
in America is homegrown. The next largest bunch comes actoss the
borders from Mexico, with smaller amounts filtering in from Panama,
occasionally South America, and occasinally, Africa.
Hashish is the pure resin of the marijuana plant, which is scraped from
the flowering tops of the plant and lumped together. Ganja is the
ground-up tops of the finest plants. (It is also the name given to any
sort of marijuana in Jamaica.)
Marijuana will deteriorate in about two years if exposed to light,
air or heat. It should always be stored in cool places.
Grass prices in the United States are a direct reflection of the laws
of supply and demand (and you thought that high school economics
would never be useful). A series of large border busts, a short growing
season, a bad crop, any number of things can drive the price of marijuana
up. Demand still seems to be on the increase in the U.S., so prices seldom
fall below last year's level.
Each year a small seasonal drought occurs, as last year's supply runs
low, and next year's crop is not up yet. Prices usually rase about
20 - 75 per cent during this time and then fall back to "normal."
Unquestionably, a large shortage of grass causes a percentage of smokers
to turn to harder drugs instead. For this reason, no grass control
program can ever be beneficial or "successful."
GROW IT!
There is one surefire way of avoiding high prices and the grass DT's:
Grow your own. This is not as difficult as some "authorities" on the
subject would make you believe. Marijuana is a weed, and a fairly
vivacious one at that, and it will grow almost in spite of you.
OUTDOORS
Contrary to propular belief, grass grows well in many place on the
North American continent. It will flourish even if the temperature does
not raise above 75 degrees.
The plants do need a minimum of eight hours of sunlight per day and
should be planted in late April/early May, BUT DEFINITELY, after the
last frost of the year.
Growing an outdoor, or "au naturel", crop has been the favored method
over the years, because grass seems to grow better without as much
attention when in its natural habitat.
Of course, an outdoors setting requires special precautions not encoun-
tered with an indoors crop; you must be able to avoid detection, both from
law enforcement freaks and common freaks, both of whom will take your
weed and probably use it. Of course, one will also arrest you. You must
also have access to the area to prepare the soil and harvest the crop.
There are two schools of thought about starting the seeds. One says you
should start the seedlings for about ten days in an indoor starter box
(see the indoor section) and then transplant. The other theory is that
you should just start them in the correct location. Fewer plants will
come up with this method, but there is no shock of transplant to
kill some of the seedlings halfway through.
The soil should be preprepared for the little devils by turning it
over a couple of times and adding about one cup of hydrated lime per
square yard of soil and a little bit (not too much, now) of good water
soluble nitrogen fertilizer. The soil should now be watered several
times and left to sit about one week.
The plants should be planted at least three feet apart, getting too
greedy and stacking them too close will result in stunted plants.
The plants like some water during their growing season, BUT not too
much. This is especially true around the roots, as too much water will
rot the root system.
Grass grows well in corn or hops, and these plants will help provide
some camouflage. It does not grow well with rye, spinach, or pepperweed.
It is probally a good idea to plant in many small, broken patches, as
people tend to notice patterns.
GENERAL GROWING INFO
Both the male and he female plant produce THC resin, although the male
is not as strong as the female. In a good crop, the male will still be
plenty smokable and should not be thrown away under any circumstances.
Marijuana can reach a hight of twenty feet (or would you rather wish on
a star) and obtain a diameter of 4 1/2 inches. If normal, it has a sex
ratio of about 1:1, but this can be altered in several ways.
The male plant dies in the 12th week of growing, the female will live
another 3 - 5 weeks to produce her younguns. Females can weigh twice as
much as males when they are mature.
Marijuana soil should compact when you squeeze it, but should also break
apart with a small pressure and absorb water well. A nice test
for either indoor or outdoor growing is to add a bunch of worms to the
soil, if they live and hang aroung, it is good soil, but if they don't,
well, change it. Worms also help keep the soil loose enough for the
plants to grow well.
SEEDS
To get good grass, you should start with the right seeds. A nice starting
point is to save the seeds form the best batch you have consumed. The
seeds should be virile, that is, they should not be grey and shiriveled
up, but green, meaty, and healthy appearing. A nice test is to drop the
seeds on a hot frying pan. If they "CRACK," they are probably good for
planting purposes.
The seeds should be soaked in distilled water overnight before planting.
BE SURE to plant in the ground with the pointy end UP. Plant about 1/2"
deep. Healthy seeds will sprout in about five days.
SPROUTING
The best all around sprouting method is probably to make a sprouting box
(as sold in nurseries) with a slated bottom or use paper cups with holes
punched in the bottoms. The sprouting soil should be a mixture of humus,
soil, and five sand with a bit of organic fertilizer and water mixed
in about one week before planting.
When ready to transplant, you must be sure and leave a ball of soil
around the roots of each plant. This whole ball is dropped into a
baseball-sized hold in the permanent soil.
If you are growing/transplanting indoors, you should use a green
safe light (purchased at nurseries) during the transplanting operation.
If you are transplanting outdoors, you should time it about two
hours befor sunset to avoid damage to the plant. Always wear cotton
gloves when handling the young plants.
After the plants are set in the hole, you should water them. It is also
a good idea to use a commercial transplant chemical (also purchased at
nurseries) to help then overcome the shock.
INDOOR GROWING
Indoor growing has many advantages, besides the apparent fact that it
is much harder to have your crop "found," you can control the ambient
conditions just exactly as you want them and get a guaranteed "good"
plant.
Plants grown indoors will not appear the same as their outdoor cousins.
They will be scrawnier appearing with a weak stems and may even require
you to tie them to a growing post to remain upright, BUT THEY WILL HAVE
AS MUCH OR MORE RESIN!
If growing in a room, you should put tar paper on the floors and then
buy sterilized bags of soil form a nursery. You will need about one
cubic foot of soil for eavh plant.
The plants will need about 150 ml. of water per plant/per week. They
will also need fresh air, so the room must be ventilated. (however,
the fresh air should contain NO TOBACCO smoke.)
At least eight hours of light a day must be provided. As you increase
the light, the plants grow faster and show more females/less males.
Sixteen hours of light per day seems to be the best combination, beyond
this makes little or no appreciable difference in the plant quality.
Another idea is to interrupt the night cycle with about one hour of
light. This gives you more females.
The walls of your growing room should be painted white or covered with
aluminum foil to reflect the light.
The lights themselves can be either bulbs of fluorescent. Figure about
75 watts per plant or one plant per two feet of flouresent tube.
The fluorescents are the best, but do not use "cool white" types. The
light sources should be an average of twenty inches from the
plant and NEVER closer than 14 inches. They may be mounted on a rack
and moved every few days as the plants grow.
The very best light sources are those made by Sylvania and others
especially for growing plants (such as the "gro lux" types).
HARVESTING AND DRYING
The male plants will be taller and have about five green or yellow sepals,
which will split open to fertilize the female plant with pollen.
The female plant is shorter and has a small pistillate flower, which
really doesn't look like a flower at all but rather a small bunch of
leaves in a cluster.
If you don't want any seeds, just good dope, you should pick the males
before they shed their pollen as the female will use some of her resin
to make the seeds.
After another three to five weeks, after the males are gone, the females
will begin to wither and die (from loneliness?), this is the time to pick.
In some nefarious Middle Eastren countries, farmers reportedly put their
beehives next to fiels of marijuana. The little devils collect the grass
pollen for their honey, which is supposed to contain a fair dosage
of THC.
The honey is then enjoyed by conventional methods or made into ambrosia.
If you want seeds - let the males shed his pollen then pick him. Let
the female go another month and pick her.
To cure the plants, they must be dried. On large crops, this is
accomplished by constructing a drying box or drying room.
You must have a heat source (such as an electric heater) which will make
the box/room each 130 degrees. The box/room must be ventilated
to carry off the water-vapor-laden air and replace it with fresh.
A good box can be constructed from an orange crate with fiberglass
insulated walls, vents in the tops, and screen shelves to hold the leaves.
There must be a baffle between the leaves and the heat source.
A quick cure for smaller amounts is to: cut the plant at the soil level
and wrap it in a cloth so as not to loose any leavs. Take out any seeds
by hand and store. Place all the leaves on a cookie sheet or aluminum
foil and put them in the middle sheld of the oven, which is set on "broil."
In a few seconds, the leaves will smoke and curl up, stir them around and
give another ten seconds before you take them out.
TO INCREASE THE GOOD STUFF
There are several tricks to increase the number of females, or the THC
content of plants:
You can make the plants mature in 36 days if you are in a hurry, by cutting
back on the light to about 14 hours, but the plants will not be as big.
You should gradually shorten the light cycle until you reach fourteen
hours.
You can stop any watering as the plants begin to bake the resin rise to
the flowers. This will increse the resin a bit.
You can use a sunlamp on the plants as they begin to develop flower stalks.
You can snip off the flower, right at the spot where it joins the plant,
and a new flower will form in a couple of weeks.
This can be repeated two or three times to get several times more flowers
than usual.
If the plants are sprayed with Ethrel early in their growing stage, they
will produce almost all female plants. This usually speeds up the flowering
also, it may happen in as little as two weeks.
You can employ a growth changer called colchicine. This is a bit hard to
get and expensive. (Should be ordered through a lab of some sort and
costs about $35 a gram.)
To use the colchicine, you should prepare your presoaking solution of
distilled water with about 0.10 per cent colchicine. This will cause
many of the seeds to die and not germinate, but the ones that do come
up will be polyploid plants. This is the accepted difference between
such strains as "gold" and normal grass, and yours will DEFINITELY
be superweed.
The problem here is that colchicine is a posion in larger quanities and
may be poisonous in the first generation of plants. Bill Frake, author
of CONNOISSEUR'S HANDBOOK OF MARIJUANA runs a very complete colchicine
treatment down and warns against smoking the first generation plants
(all succeeding generations will also be polyploid) bacause of this
poisonous quality.
However, the Medical Index shows colchicine being given in very small
quantities to people for treatment if various ailments. Although these
quantities are small, they would appear to be larger than any you could
recive form smoaking a seed-treated plant.
It would be a good idea to buy a copy of CONNOISSEUR'S, if you are planning
to attempt this, and read Mr. Drake's complete instructions.
Another still-experimental process to increase the resin it to pinch off
the leaf tips as soon as they appear from the time the plant is in the
seedling stage on through its entire life-span. This produces a distorted,
wrecked-looking plant which would be very difficuly to recognize as
marijuana. Of course, there is less substance to this plant, but such
wrecked creatures have been known to produve so much resin that it
crystallizes a strong hash all over the surface of the plant - might
be wise to try it on a plant or two and see what happens.
PLANT PROBLEM CHART
Always check the overall enviromental conditions prior to passing
judgment - soil aroung 7 pH or slightly less - plenty of water, light,
fresh air, loose soil, no water standing in pools.
SYMPTOM PROBABLY PROBLEM/CURE
Larger leaves turning yellow - Nitrogen dificiency - add
smaller leaves still green. nitrate of soda or
organic fertilizer.
Older leaves will curl at edges, Phosphorsus dificiency -
turn dark, possibaly with a purple add commercial phosphate.
cast.
Mature leaves develop a yellowish Magnesium dificiency -
cast to least veinal areas. add commercial fertilizer
with a magnesium content.
Mature leaves turn yellow and then Potassium dificiency -
become spotted with edge areas add muriate of potash.
turning dark grey.
Cracked stems, no healthy support Boron dificiency - add
tissue. any plant food containing
boron.
Small wrinkled leaves with Zinc dificiency - add
yelloish vein systems. commercial plant food
containing zinc.
Young leaves become deformed, Molybedum dificiency -
possibaly yellowing. use any plant food with a
bit of molydbenum in it.
EXTRA SECTION:
BAD WEED/GOOD WEED
Can you turn bad weed into good weed? Surprisingly enough, the answer
to this oft-asked inquiry is, yes!
Like most other things in life, the amount of good you are going
to do relates directly to how much effort you are going to put into it.
There are no instant, supermarket products which you can spray on Kansas
catnip and have wonderweed, but there are a number of simplified,
inexpensive processes (Gee, Mr. Wizard!) thich will enhance mediocre
grass somewhat, ant there are a couple of fairly involved processes
which will do up even almost-parsley weed into something worth writing
home about.
EASES
1. Place the dope in a container which allows air to enter in a restricted
fashion (such as a can with nail holes punched in its lid) and add a
bunch of dry ice, and the place the whold shebang in the freezer for a
few days. This process will add a certain amount of potency to the product,
however, this only works with dry ice, if you use normal, everyday
freezer ice, you will end up with a soggy mess...
2. Take a quantity of grass and dampen it, place in a baggie or another
socially acceptable container, and store it in a dark, dampish place
for a couple of weeks (burying it also seems to work). The grass will
develop a mold which tastes a bit harsh, a and burns a tiny bit funny,
but does increase the potency.
3. Expose the grass to the high intensity light of a sunlamp for a full
day or so. Personally, I don't feel that this is worth the effort, but
if you just spent $400 of your friend's money for this brick of
super-Colombian, right-from-the-President's-personal-stash,
and it turns out to be Missouri weed, and you're packing your bags to
leave town before the people arrive for their shares, well, you might
at least try it. Can't hurt.
4. Take the undisirable portions of our stash (stems, seeds, weak weed,
worms, etc.) and place them in a covered pot, with enough rubbing
alchol to cover everything.
Now CAREFULLY boil the mixture on an ELECTRIC stove or lab burner. DO
NOT USE GAS - the alchol is too flammable. After 45 minutes of heat,
remove the pot and strain the solids out, SAVING THE ALCOHOL.
Now, repeat the process with the same residuals, but fresh alchol.
When the second boil is over, remove the solids again, combine the two
quantities of alcohol and reboil until you have a syrupy mixture.
Now, this syrupy mixture will contain much of the THC formerly hidden
in the stems and such. One simply takes this syrup the throughly
combines it with the grass that one wishes to improve upon.
SPECIAL SECTION ON RELATED SUBJECT MARYGIN:
Marygin is an anagram of the words marijuana and gin, as in Eli Whitney.
It is a plastic tumbler which acts much like a commercial cottin gin.
One takes about one ounce of an harb and breaks it up. This is then placed
in the Marygin and the protuding knod is roatated. This action turns
the internal wheel, which separates the grass from the debris (seeds,
stems).
It does not pulberize the grass as screens have a habit of doing and is
easily washable.
Marygin is available from:
P.O. Box 5827
Tuscon, Arizona 85703
$5.00
GRASS
Edmund Scientific Company
555 Edscorp Building
Barrington, New Jersy 08007
Free Catalog is a wonder of good things for the potential grass
grower. They have an electric thermostat greenhouse for starting
plants for a mere $14.95.
Soil test kits for PH - $2.40
Al test - $9.95
Soil thermometer - $2.75
Lights which approzimate the true color balance of the sun and are
probably the most beneficial types available: 40 watt, 48 inch - 4 for
$15.75.
Indoor sun bulb, 75 or 150 watt - $5.75.
And, they have a natural growth regualtor for plants (Gibberellin) which
can change height, speed growth, and maturity, promote blossoming,
etc. Each plant reacts differently to treatment with Gibberellin...there's
no fun like experimenting - $2.00
SUGGESTED READING
THE CONNOISSEUR'S HANDBOOK OF MARIJUANA, Bill Drake
Straight Arrow Publishing - $3.50
625 Third Street
San Francisco, California
FLASH
P.O.Box 16098
San Fransicso, California 94116
Stocks a series of pamphlets on grass, dope manufacture, cooking.
Includes the Mary Jane Superweed series.
Match Head Bomb by the Jolly Roger
Simple safety match heads in a pipe, capped at both ends, make a
devestating bomb. It is set off with a regular fuse.
A plastic Baggie is put into the pipe before the heads go in to
prevent detonation by contact with the metal.
Cutting enough match heads to fill the pipe can be tedious work for
one but an evening's fun for the family if you can drag them away from
the TV.
----------------Jolly Roger
Part one of two
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